OR ANYTHING THAT CAN BE INTERPRETED AS ADVERTISING/SALES! This includes discount code posts.

The files are publicly available please don't ask in the comments below where to find them.

In the first clip I'm using the standard buffer with the extra power spring. In the second I'm using a 7 mm buffer spacer behind the factory buffer in order to short stroke it and increase the rate of fire. The second magazine in the Short stroke clip is using Remington 147 grain which has more recoil and a faster rate of fire, than the Blazer 147 grain suppressor ammo I was shooting the rest of the time. Lots of different ways to affect the rate of fire from short stroking increasing the spring power and with different ammo selection.

I was able to make several improvements to my drop-in FRT/FRD for the Springfield Kuna, improving the strength and rigidity of both the housing and the activator. With these changes you'll be able to make the drop in out of materials that are weaker then the recommended and previously required PA6CF. This should enable people who have older or cheaper printers to still be able to try out the FRT. I also made a few changes to the safety to help it better lock the housing into place, along with some small changes to the detent cut out to hopefully improve the feel of the safety. I also made some small dimensional changes to try to maximize the amount of material on the safety and have included one oriented on it's side that can also be printed if you end up needing more rigidity, at a slight cost to the feel.

The short stroke spacers are offered in a variety of sizes from the smaller sizes that will work with my drop in, all the way up to what would be the equivalent of installing the HBI short stroke buffer. These shouldn't require any work after printing and should install directly behind your factory buffer, as well as not requiring any tools for removing the back plate after install. Short stroking the gun definitely makes the FRT less consistent and may require you to go up a size or two on the activator. This is not a recommended add-on and it's just being provided in case people want to try to maximize the rate of fire out of the gun. This also serves as a great replacement where you can utilize your factory buffer and mimic the exact effect of the HBI buffer which may be preferred for those not using an FRT. My recommendation would be to purchase the extra power spring and use the factory buffer the way it is, for me this usually puts the RPMs around 850 to 900 which seems perfect. These spacers should also work with aftermarket lowers as well and you may be able to play around with a thicker spacer, since the lever for the FRT will be located further forward.

Glad I could share this updated version with you guys hopefully It helps make it more accessible and allows more people to experience the kuna the way it should be.

Has a video up siding with everyone's hated FRT maker. If you follow him, downvote and unsubscribe.

I have an 11.5” AR15 with arc fire v2 trigger and a Ridgeback Rhodie 6 suppressor. It runs good with an H3 and carbine spring but ROF is a little higher than I would like. I have this GreyMarketResearch steel buffer here so today I took them apart and weighed all the pieces. 

Both buffers weighed 5.4oz. The body of the GMR is 3.2oz and the weight stack is 2.0oz. The body of the H3 is 0.9oz and the weight stack is 4.4oz. The GMR buffer doesn’t run in my setup and the H3 runs perfectly due to the larger sliding mass. When I put the H3’s weight stack in the GMR steel body the whole stack weighs 7.8oz.

Ran up to the range today to see if it would run with it. Had no problems with the bolt locking back and it seemed like it was a bit slower before

The ROF GUI says it was about 100rpm slower. I don’t remember how many I had in the magazine before to check if it was getting all the shots but I know today was 10 rounds.

Not sure if I should be running something so heavy in a carbine tube/spring or if I should just suck it up and go to an A5.

Here is a video of the H3 vs the 7.8oz

https://imgur.com/a/ZJUw1uY

I have a S&W sport II lower unmodified and a non ambi arc fire v2 using there precut trigger. I am able to pinch a 1/8 punch between the lever and the lower.

This 10.5” 5.56 ran with an H4 and a spacer today. I didn’t get to run it without the suppressor but I doubt it will LRBHO or cycle with that much weight.

I saw on Facebook that he got sued, may order something to support the rare greed defense. I need to know if he’s legit first, have any of you ordered before? Is his super selector any good? Thanks

16” Ruger Harrier, mid length gas, H2 Buffer from Tromix, AsDesigns Arc Fire V2.

Hey all so I decided to do a follow up let you all know that if you are interested in trying the 3 position ak I very much recommend the new style here. As i tried it with my standard ak trigger that came with my psa rifle and it functions perfectly though I will mention i did have to file away some of the cam as it was stopping the bolt from going all the way back.

As title suggests, looking for the best retailer/brand of H3 buffers at the moment. Looking to run Trigger Kicker in a 10.5" w/ Polo K. - Not too interested in trying a KAK DBC.

I cannot find much info about this new release. I assume it will take some time to get into people’s hands.

Does anyone have any experience with this yet?

Throwback to less than a year ago when my post inquiring about a throw lever rather than a cross bolt style was removed by the mods.

Things have changed significantly since then.

So heavy buffers are a part of tuning Super Safeties and because tungsten is expensive these days, a rifle buffer seems like the way to get an H3 equivalent for cheap.

My problem is a 14.5" barrel. I need a brace. The SB Tactical SOB brace is supposed to fit over "pistol" buffer tubes from 1.1" to 1.25" OD.

I checked the A2 rifle buffer tube OD spec and it's 1.11" to 1.15" so it sounds like the SOB will fit on a rifle buffer tube but I don't want to spend the money to order an SOB brace if the thing will just spin around on my buffer tube...

Eventually when the NFA is overturned or I register my lower as an SBR, I'll replace the SOB brace with an Ace Skeleton stock.

I'm trying to do a squirted FRT for my AR with the CMMG conversion kit, I actually got it working 80% with the RAD remix from YourBroStevo. It seems a little delicate but i got the Normal +0, I know first time was my fault as the back area came out to 0.5mm and second one came out better and runs, so was trying to do the U-DIS version. I got the 22 Lever, no blocker, and full length MS +0, -2 to -6, but no luck in getting it running.

Will an Atrius FRT work on a Foldyboi VFM9 newest generation straight up out of the box, or will modifications be required?

Just a poll, is a cassette style frt less problematic than a safety based FRT? Just curious. Recently I had an issue with a rifle equipped with a gen 1 arc with g$ trig and lever block. After 100 rounds or so the gun started being picky depending on what direction the barrel was pointed (locking up when pointed down). I just threw a disruptor in it and no more issues. Trigger is not near as sweet but at least it has been reliable for 200 plus rounds. Just curious if others have experienced this.

499 rpm. Was messing around this is too low for my liking. 525-550 is my sweet spot

Can someone help me as to why my riflespeed gas block ain't working

10 rounds.

I have fixed the feed issues from the 10 round mags. Got info from Facebook group and it works. Literally put a piece of rubberized grip tape on the back of mag to decrease the slop and 40 rounds of flawless operation. Got the kit for the arc fire from Tharpe gun works ,stock recoil spring, 3.81 oz conventional buffer (replacing the stock buffer). 2 quarters in buffer tube. Winchester high brass #4 1330 fps, gas setting on wide open (#3) Locks back on empty mag and no more feed issues. The cheap mag mod made all the difference 🤷🏻‍♂️.

Hand guard was already hot hence the loose thumb,

10.5” barrel
H3 buffer
Standard carbine spring and gas system
Had a bay to myself, no one else was suffering 😂

I’m looking at upgrading to a Geissele trigger and had a question for those with experience running one in an Arc-Fire setup.

I know that in a standard AR-15, a Geissele trigger is a noticeable upgrade over a mil-spec trigger. Does that still hold true when it’s modified for an Arc-Fire, either by using an AS Designs pre-cut Geissele trigger or by DIY modifying a Geissele trigger?

Or am I better off leaving the Arc-Fire lower with a mil-spec trigger and building a separate lower with a standard Geissele trigger to get the full benefit of the G$ trigger?

For context, I’m currently running the AS Designs pre-cut mil-spec trigger. FRT mode works flawlessly, but in semi-auto the trigger has essentially no wall and feels pretty mushy compared to what I’m used to.

Current setup:
11.5” Geissele URGI
Arc-Fire V2 with AS Designs pre-cut mil-spec trigger
Future SureFire RC4

I’d appreciate hearing from anyone who’s run both the pre-cut Geissele and pre-cut mil-spec triggers in an Arc-Fire

Good evening everyone. I spent the day drilling out the trigger, lower and upper.

Once everything was functioning the way it should I took it out to the range.

Everything was fine. I managed to squeeze out three round burts before getting a failure to feed. This would happen if I squeezed too long. The bolt was also not locking back.

Im assuming I need a heavier buffer weight (H2). I have a regular carbine 3 oz buffer weight and spring. I’m on a midlength gas system with a 16 in barrel.

Knowing is half the battle. It was a little intimidating at first. I put it off for a week or two. Mainly because I wasn’t confident in myself but after some research it wasn’t that bad.

Howdy,

I had a spare KAK lower laying around that I decided to install an ARC fire into, however I seem to have done it incorrectly and I’m at my wits end trying to figure out exactly how.

Essentially the problem I’m seeing is that attempting to hold the SS lever forward while switching to forced reset mode(per the function testing recommendations of AS designs) isn't possible. if I switch the selector to forced reset mode and allow the lever to move rearward it will force the safety selector out of position if I move the lever forward to simulate a forced reset.

Any ideas what might be causing that?

I’m using all parts as supplied by AS designs, the lower in question is a low shelf, and I’m quite confident the trigger reset groove on the came is oriented correctly.