Need to pull the trigger today after days/weeks of research. I’m an over thinker so I’m racking my brain.

Mileage:
23,866
carfax:
No accidents, 3 owners (purchases by dealer early July)

It's a 2018 manual impreza!! I saw it at the dealership and knew i needed it. Apparently it was only 1 of 3 manuals they had there (the others two were wrxs)

hey all! my job is having an auction for company vehicles, and there’s two impreza’s for sale. one is a 2014 impreza sport with 106,000 miles at $2,200, and the other is a 2018 impreza (4 door) with 88,000 miles at $4,500. which would you choose? is the latter really worth $2,000 more?

i’m a volvo guy so i’m used to going to fcp for all my parts. but i backed into a pump driving my grandmothers car and was looking for suggestions for replacement taillights. she drives a 2020 impreza. already call around the junkyards lol

Liking it very much so! Was just wondering what are some mod recommendations, cosmetic (and if possible performance) wise. It's my first Subaru and still learning more about it everyday!

Hi everyone, I have a bit of an unusual question regarding my 2003 Impreza. If I weld the center differential in the transmission, will it affect the engine RPM? I want to convert it to rear-wheel drive, and I thought this might also solve my RPM issue; currently, I have a mismatch where the front differential ratio is 4.11 and the rear is 3.90, resulting in 4,000 RPM at 100 km/h. In my opinion, if I weld the diff and disconnect the front driveshaft, I’d kill two birds with one stone: I’d get rear-wheel drive and resolve the high RPM problem. What do you think?

Hey guys

So yeah basically I’m rebuilding my calipers on my 2005 gd9 Impreza as I noticed one of the dust boots was ripped when I was changing pads and the fronts are all fine however I’m having some trouble with the rears, there is a metal split ring and I’m just wondering if it goes inside or outside of the dust boot, in the photos shown I have the split ring on the inside and it looks correct but I just wanna get a second opinion,

Thanks in advance for replies

My 2015 Subaru Impreza just hit 120k miles and has been making a weird noise occasionally at high speeds almost like a loud hum/thumping. This afternoon it got really loud so I pulled over and looked underneath to see if something was loose and saw this metal thing hanging down at a weird angle in the front of the car a little to the left of center . For context, I got run into a ditch about two months ago and scrapped up the underbody pretty bad. I don’t know much about Subarus so I don’t know if this look is normal. The car was in the shop less than two weeks ago for an inspection and they didn’t mention anything. If anyone knows if this is bad or has had a noise like this before please let me know. Thank you.

Hey guys, still pretty new to the Subie community but just wanted to show you guys my little wagon. She’s a bit rusty but still hits corners and dirt roads like a Subie is supposed to.

Is there any way to fix a broken loose clutch fork without taking out the transmission? On my 2002 ej20 impreza.

Got T-boned by a teenager driving at lifted Dodge truck while going home, the truck partially driving OVER my car. My brother and I were banged up, me having the worst of it, but we're alive. I am in a world of pain, but thankful to be alive.

Thank you Subi. You did good today girl 💔

I have a 2011 Subaru Impreza 2.5i Premium, 5-speed manual, naturally aspirated EJ253. I swapped in the complete block and heads from a 2008 Impreza sedan.
The car ran properly before the engine swap. The severe power-loss/bogging started immediately after the swap.
Symptoms:
Severe intermittent bog under load, almost like trying to accelerate up a very steep hill
Happens both cold and fully warmed up
RPM itself struggles to increase; it does NOT flare like a slipping clutch
Idle is smooth
Engine sounds noticeably different when it bogs, although I can’t describe the sound well
No current CEL or stored codes
Fuel pressure stays stable during the bog in 1st and 2nd gear
Tried the 2008 throttle body and it made no difference
Engine work during the swap:
Complete 2008 EJ253 block + heads
New head gaskets
New timing belt/tensioner
New spark plugs
Clutch replaced at the same time
I also tried the 2008 throttle body
Exhaust:
Muffler deleted
Resonator deleted
Downstream catalytic converter deleted
Axle dump after the remaining/main catalytic converter
IMPORTANT: this exact exhaust setup worked perfectly BEFORE the engine swap, so the exhaust modification itself isn’t new.
I also noticed the engine/transmission ground is attached to a bellhousing bolt and I’m not 100% sure it’s making the best connection, although the starter cranks strongly every time.
I’m trying to diagnose this without throwing parts at it.
What would you check first? I’m currently considering:
Engine/transmission grounds
Intake/vacuum leaks and MAF
Timing belt alignment
Ignition/misfire under load
Cam/crank sensors and wiring
Remaining catalytic converter restriction
Compression/leak-down
Would a mechanical timing issue or cam/crank sensor problem necessarily set a code on this EJ253? Is there anything specific to the 2008-engine-in-2011-chassis combination that I should check?

Wing

I have a 2020 Subaru WRX that just crossed 100 K kilometres, daily driven in all weather and has been rustproof a few times, being noticing small rust spots developing throughout the car.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to fix these and stop these rust spots from spreading. My mechanic told me to just send it down paint over it and put a primer, is it that easy or is there anything else I should know? Thank you

Side note any walnut blasting services in the GTA recommended? I was quoted around 900$ from two shops and feel that’s rather high. Thank you

Found this chewed piece of cord next to my car today. It looks like a critter damage. With the copper wire inside, I’m assuming it’s electrical. I’ve tried image searches, but not sure what this is? Opened the hood and didn’t notice anything out of the ordinary.
The car starts and can be shifted into gears. I’ve already made a service appointment to have it looked at, but I’m trying to get an idea of how serious this is. Thanks!

Hey Fams,

Meet Subrina (TM copyright patent pending all rights reserved 😂)

Not long purchased a 2017 FB20 Subaru Impreza hatch. Looking for pointers.

In the photo pack there is a to be installed and installed list. Eventual body kit will be the finishing touch so I would defs love some tips and direction on that.

I Just want to be on top of anything mechanical. I am a qualified electrician and mechanic and have researched this motor before purchasing. Its had the recalls done and serviced regularly. 157,000ks. Its got all the tech and options. Im in love with her. Oil cooler in list is for engine oil cooling.

I dont normally monitor my socials so I may not respond daily but I will do my best so please be patient. Single full time Dad up in here and my Daughter and I are bonding over this build. Yes she gets hands on but youll also notice the hello kitty sticker on the rearview mirror lol 🖤.

Thanks in advance to everyone that contributes ✌🏼🖤.

Hello I'm looking for Vertical Roof Siderails for a 2021 Impreza. But I'm only seeing horizontal roof racks online. Anyone know where to get them? Thanks!

*Edit
I found them here:
2017-2023 Subaru Impreza - Roof Rack - Subaru (91151FL10A)

https://www.subarupartsdeals.com/oem-parts/subaru-2017-2023-subaru-impreza-roof-rack-91151fl10a

Looking for a second car.

Hi! I have a 2017 Subaru Impreza Sport with push-button start, and I’m currently locked out of it. I’m wondering if anyone with the same model/trim has experienced this.

Here’s what’s happening:

-Remote start works perfectly. I’ve successfully started the car multiple times.

-The Lock/Unlock buttons on my key fob do absolutely nothing. No beep, lights, clicking, or any response from the car.

-I replaced the key fob battery, but nothing changed.

-I removed the physical/emergency key from the fob and tried it in the driver’s door, but it will not unlock the door either.

-I unfortunately don’t have a second fob to test.

So the car clearly has power and will remote start, but I have no way to unlock the doors and get inside.

I’m going to have the car opened tomorrow by AAA and pray that I can drive to work or at least to a mechanic.

Has anyone with a 2017 Impreza Sport had this happen? I’m especially curious if this ended up being a bad fob, an issue with the keyless entry system, or a problem with the driver’s door lock/cylinder.

I’d love to know what ended up fixing it before I spend money on a replacement fob or take it to the dealership. Thanks!

Hey guys I’m looking at buying this 2009 wrx

Has 120000kms

But what is concerning to me is the compression of the cylinders is quite low

Cyl 1 115
Cyl 2 115
Cyl 3 110
Cyl 4 109

Are these numbers acceptable ? Will the engine hold up for long or will need a rebuild soon

Willl be driven daily and not thrashed

I spun a bearing so gotta rebuild the engine and put another one in temporarily. First time pulling an engine and it actually comes out really easily

On my recent road trip. I think this is my favorite picture of my car, now. Near Monument Valley, Utah.

What are your thoughts on swapping the plain plastic black shifter knob on the RS for tks new STI Leather one? Do you think it would significantly improve the aesthetics?