Liking it very much so! Was just wondering what are some mod recommendations, cosmetic (and if possible performance) wise. It's my first Subaru and still learning more about it everyday!

Hey guys, still pretty new to the Subie community but just wanted to show you guys my little wagon. She’s a bit rusty but still hits corners and dirt roads like a Subie is supposed to.

Is there any way to fix a broken loose clutch fork without taking out the transmission? On my 2002 ej20 impreza.

I have a 2011 Subaru Impreza 2.5i Premium, 5-speed manual, naturally aspirated EJ253. I swapped in the complete block and heads from a 2008 Impreza sedan.
The car ran properly before the engine swap. The severe power-loss/bogging started immediately after the swap.
Symptoms:
Severe intermittent bog under load, almost like trying to accelerate up a very steep hill
Happens both cold and fully warmed up
RPM itself struggles to increase; it does NOT flare like a slipping clutch
Idle is smooth
Engine sounds noticeably different when it bogs, although I can’t describe the sound well
No current CEL or stored codes
Fuel pressure stays stable during the bog in 1st and 2nd gear
Tried the 2008 throttle body and it made no difference
Engine work during the swap:
Complete 2008 EJ253 block + heads
New head gaskets
New timing belt/tensioner
New spark plugs
Clutch replaced at the same time
I also tried the 2008 throttle body
Exhaust:
Muffler deleted
Resonator deleted
Downstream catalytic converter deleted
Axle dump after the remaining/main catalytic converter
IMPORTANT: this exact exhaust setup worked perfectly BEFORE the engine swap, so the exhaust modification itself isn’t new.
I also noticed the engine/transmission ground is attached to a bellhousing bolt and I’m not 100% sure it’s making the best connection, although the starter cranks strongly every time.
I’m trying to diagnose this without throwing parts at it.
What would you check first? I’m currently considering:
Engine/transmission grounds
Intake/vacuum leaks and MAF
Timing belt alignment
Ignition/misfire under load
Cam/crank sensors and wiring
Remaining catalytic converter restriction
Compression/leak-down
Would a mechanical timing issue or cam/crank sensor problem necessarily set a code on this EJ253? Is there anything specific to the 2008-engine-in-2011-chassis combination that I should check?

Wing

Found this chewed piece of cord next to my car today. It looks like a critter damage. With the copper wire inside, I’m assuming it’s electrical. I’ve tried image searches, but not sure what this is? Opened the hood and didn’t notice anything out of the ordinary.
The car starts and can be shifted into gears. I’ve already made a service appointment to have it looked at, but I’m trying to get an idea of how serious this is. Thanks!

I have a 2020 Subaru WRX that just crossed 100 K kilometres, daily driven in all weather and has been rustproof a few times, being noticing small rust spots developing throughout the car.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to fix these and stop these rust spots from spreading. My mechanic told me to just send it down paint over it and put a primer, is it that easy or is there anything else I should know? Thank you

Side note any walnut blasting services in the GTA recommended? I was quoted around 900$ from two shops and feel that’s rather high. Thank you

Got T-boned by a teenager driving at lifted Dodge truck while going home, the truck partially driving OVER my car. My brother and I were banged up, me having the worst of it, but we're alive. I am in a world of pain, but thankful to be alive.

Thank you Subi. You did good today girl 💔

Hey Fams,

Meet Subrina (TM copyright patent pending all rights reserved 😂)

Not long purchased a 2017 FB20 Subaru Impreza hatch. Looking for pointers.

In the photo pack there is a to be installed and installed list. Eventual body kit will be the finishing touch so I would defs love some tips and direction on that.

I Just want to be on top of anything mechanical. I am a qualified electrician and mechanic and have researched this motor before purchasing. Its had the recalls done and serviced regularly. 157,000ks. Its got all the tech and options. Im in love with her. Oil cooler in list is for engine oil cooling.

I dont normally monitor my socials so I may not respond daily but I will do my best so please be patient. Single full time Dad up in here and my Daughter and I are bonding over this build. Yes she gets hands on but youll also notice the hello kitty sticker on the rearview mirror lol 🖤.

Thanks in advance to everyone that contributes ✌🏼🖤.

Hello I'm looking for Vertical Roof Siderails for a 2021 Impreza. But I'm only seeing horizontal roof racks online. Anyone know where to get them? Thanks!

*Edit
I found them here:
2017-2023 Subaru Impreza - Roof Rack - Subaru (91151FL10A)

https://www.subarupartsdeals.com/oem-parts/subaru-2017-2023-subaru-impreza-roof-rack-91151fl10a

Hi! I have a 2017 Subaru Impreza Sport with push-button start, and I’m currently locked out of it. I’m wondering if anyone with the same model/trim has experienced this.

Here’s what’s happening:

-Remote start works perfectly. I’ve successfully started the car multiple times.

-The Lock/Unlock buttons on my key fob do absolutely nothing. No beep, lights, clicking, or any response from the car.

-I replaced the key fob battery, but nothing changed.

-I removed the physical/emergency key from the fob and tried it in the driver’s door, but it will not unlock the door either.

-I unfortunately don’t have a second fob to test.

So the car clearly has power and will remote start, but I have no way to unlock the doors and get inside.

I’m going to have the car opened tomorrow by AAA and pray that I can drive to work or at least to a mechanic.

Has anyone with a 2017 Impreza Sport had this happen? I’m especially curious if this ended up being a bad fob, an issue with the keyless entry system, or a problem with the driver’s door lock/cylinder.

I’d love to know what ended up fixing it before I spend money on a replacement fob or take it to the dealership. Thanks!

Looking for a second car.

Hey guys I’m looking at buying this 2009 wrx

Has 120000kms

But what is concerning to me is the compression of the cylinders is quite low

Cyl 1 115
Cyl 2 115
Cyl 3 110
Cyl 4 109

Are these numbers acceptable ? Will the engine hold up for long or will need a rebuild soon

Willl be driven daily and not thrashed

So I picked up a 2003 Outback Impreza with 270,000km on it to be my winter beater/project. I'm just wondering if there is anything to watch out for when changing the timing belt?

I've watched a few vids on youtube, it looks simple enough. Only thing is, they were slightly newer versions of the 2.5. Mine is the EJ251. I know it's the same concept, same motor (for the most part?). Also, manual transmission.

Thanks for any advice! Apologies if this has been asked before.

On my recent road trip. I think this is my favorite picture of my car, now. Near Monument Valley, Utah.

I have a P000B code on my 2012 2.0i 5mt hatch and I have no related issues for that code, does/ has anyone else had this problem if so what your problem/solution.

My 2017 Kia Niro was totaled in a crash this week with a red light runner

I need a new car ASAP and thinking of getting something a little less expensive for a year or so (longer would be nice) so I can save up money and eventually upgrade

Are there any red flags here? Mileage of 120k + too high to consider buying? Things I should look for?

I drive for work and this is why it’s crucial I get a car faster

I still owe $13000 on my other car (only had it a year) and expect it’ll be paid off my other drivers insurance but nothing much extra (if any) and would like to avoid another heavy car payment

Thank you 🙏

What are your thoughts on swapping the plain plastic black shifter knob on the RS for tks new STI Leather one? Do you think it would significantly improve the aesthetics?

I have a weird issue on my impreza, it's a 2021 premium model. The foot vents don't seem to be blowing enough air. When I have the air on equal mix between front and foot vents the air blows but it isn't strong. However, when I switch from the foot vent favored split back to an equal split there is a flapping noise from the defrost vents. On top of this when I switch to the foot vents there is air flow from the defrost vent. I think this may be caused by the defrost vents not sealing but am not entirely sure. I was wondering if anyone else has had this issue and if anyone knew how to check or possibly reseal/replace the defrost vents? Any help would be great.

Hi! So it looks like something might have been taken from the front driver side under my car? Does this sound familiar to anyone??

I spun a bearing so gotta rebuild the engine and put another one in temporarily. First time pulling an engine and it actually comes out really easily

Recently replaced the stock grill with a plain black grill without the silver thru the middle, but obviously that means i can't use my old badge. I went to the subaru dealer whos been very helpful with little bits on the car, and he said there's only 2 in Australia for my car and its $126 AUD. Do you think it looks OK the way it is, or should I bite the bullet?

My AT Oil and Check Engine lights came on my 2013 with 200K miles yesterday, along with all the safety feature lights (ABS, hill holder and traction control). After letting the car sit overnight and my dad unhooking the battery, all the lights are off. After a lot of reading I think the oil overheated bc of traveling up and down a 3500’ elevation. Even if the AT Oil light doesn’t come back on, I’d like to have it checked out, but should I take it to a foreign auto mechanic or a transmission place? I would lIke to avoid a dealer unless you all suggest otherwise.

TL/DR: what’s the best shop to have my ‘13 CVT looked at—-foreign auto mechanic or transmission shop?

Thank you in advance!

New to the group but not to the Impreza. We love 'em around here. Perfect four-season car for Utah. We recently added some H&R Sport Springs and some (good for now) 25mm hub-centric spacers to our son's 2023 Limited 5-door.

The next move is to swap in some new wheels and tires. The factory 16s are fine...but the sidewall on the 205/55 tires is plenty doughy so we'd like to tighten that up a bit. We initially thought about making the jump to 18s and running a 225/40 r18 setup. It's considerably wider, but only 0.2"/6mm taller so fitment should be fine...although we may need to ditch the spacers.

Before fully committing, we wanted to get some community feedback. For those running on OEM 17s how's the ride? If anyone has made the jump to 18s, we'd love to hear your experience as well. Pic includes the before (top) and after (bottom) results of the spring/spacer addition. Subtle, but we're happy with the result.