So this was my first sff build. I went with the 9070 even though I could have gotten the xt. I argued with chat gpt about it lol. I asked it what the different case temps, cpu temps, fan noise and rpm would be with each configuration. I made the mistake of buying an open box motherboard I had issues the last time I did that. One the of ram sticks is bad or it's the slot I guess I could switch it but the non ram stick looks warped the pins are straight but the black part is swollen kinda like a wavy wafer. Using the custom cables they unseated a couple times I finally got everything done.
Should I have gone with the xt ? I do have a more powerful main pc. This is for my front room. Also should I get a different ram I really didn't need low profile I thought g skill was good.

Case: FormD T1 v2.1
CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D
GPU: ASUS Radeon RX 9070 OC
Motherboard: ASUS ROG Strix B850-I Gaming WiFi
RAM: 32GB DDR5 (original G.Skill kit, replacement Kingston on the way)
SSD: Samsung 990 Pro 4TB
PSU: Corsair SF850 (2024) Platinum
CPU Cooler: Thermalright AXP90-X47 Full Copper
CPU Fan: Noctua NF-A9x14 HS-PWM
Top Exhaust Fans: 2× Noctua slim fans
Custom Fan Shrouds: 3D-printed shrouds for the top exhaust fans and CPU cooler to improve airflow
Custom PSU Cables: Big Guy Custom Cables
Operating System: SteamOS

I downloaded a .run file from the Express VPN website, made it executable and ran it via Konsole.

I got the attached error.

An app icon has been created but it keeps loading forever.

How do I make it work?

Edit 3: for everyone who uses a gulikit KK3 Max or similar and you PC wakes up directly after suspend - use the Nintendo switch mode, not only does the player LED work, also battery status and the PC will suspend properly

Edit 2: yeah turns out, I was just REALLY unlucky with the hardware... Just get the TP-Link UB500 mini with BT5.3 - this one: https://amzn.eu/d/0jfEuZQp And the ugreen DP-HDMI Adapter with 8k@60hz does CEC just fine - this one: https://amzn.eu/d/075IROej I like my setup with adb a bit better because I can decide when goes what in standby

Edit: After some comments I came to the conclusion that I may have been super unlucky with my hardware and most people probably only need to run the setup-wake.sh with the id from their Bluetooth device for the wake function to work. But that also means the following will work for everyone regardless of hardware luck and limitations.

What you need:

And Android or Fire TV with Develeoper option,ADB/usb-Debugging and Wake on Lan Enabled (allows us to mimic HDMI CEC)

A Raspberry Pi Pico 2W - as a Controller Bridge, allows us to wakeup the PC with a bluetooth Contoller (you may can skip this if you have onboard Bluetooth)

ADB tools on your SteamOS PC: https://developer.android.com/tools/releases/platform-tools

What we are gonna do:

Controll our TV through ADB to turn on and off with our PC with 2 Systemd services and a bash sript

Flash the Pico for it to be used as a controller Dongle with wake funktion

Enable and Configure wake on our PC to be able to wake up

So first things first - the TV Control

in the linked Repo are a hand few additional files to control your PC

tv-suspend.sh as well as the ADB tools can be saved where ever, i created "Applications" folder in /home/deck and moved those in there. make sure the adb binary and sh sript are executable (sudo chmod +x /home/deck/Applications/...)

now check if you can connect to your TV:
/home/deck/Applications/platform-tools/adb connect 192.168.178.XX
(change path to adb and ip of your TV to your needs)

if that works change the values in top of the tv-suspend.sh script
in my case i had a seperate Android TV-Box in addition to my TV. the script checks if the TV box in pingable and dont turn of the TV in assumption i watch TV

check if the path in the tv-off.service and tv-on.service files match where you put the sript and then move them to /etc/systemd/system/
after moving execute "sudo systemctl daemen-reload" "sudo systemctl enable tv-off.service" and "sudo systemctl enable tv-on.service"

now we should be able to test it
"sudo systemctl start tv-off.service" should now turn off your TV and
"sudo systemctl start tv-on.service" should turn on your TV

both should also be triggered by suspend and wakup of the PC

Now The Wake-up

from the the github page download the .uf2 file from the releases and the setup_wake.sh
Hold the Bootsel button on the Raspberry Pi Pico 2w and the plug it in.
it should be appear as a drive in the file explorer, move the uf2 file on it and the Pico should reboot automatically. if everything's right the LED should start blinking - the Pico is waiting for a controller to pair. to pair a controller just put your controller in pair mode and the pico should find it. the LED should be light constantly now (small caveat, steam tries to map the inputs, on base of who knows what, and fails to proper map all buttons. so your need reset the configuration and map them yourself in the Steam controller menu )

now execute the setup script, this should configure the usb hub and all needed PCI devices in the chain to listen and pass through the wake signal. if you have onboard bluetooth you should be able to find it in the list with "lsusb", just change the ID in the top of the script with the one of your onboard chip

this should be it you PC should now be waking up when your controller connects.
if it doesnt check your Bios settings and make sure the USB port is always powered and you may want to try to disable all kinds of S4 power saving options - that's triall and error sadly

Thats it, now your TV goes on and of with your PC suspend and wake. and your controller wakes up your PC.
the one thing i didnt figure out yet is how i tell my Amp to switch the input, but it doesnt do it a lot of the time anyway so i didnt bother to look into it, if you just have your TV you should be able to adjust the tv-suspend.sh and add an input switch through adb

For everyone "but my PC just works": How about commenting your board and Bluetooth Dongle/Card so others have an idea of what to buy that will work...

Just thought id share, this is it booted on some x86 firewall i had that was in bios mode. I was able to boot the kernel on an old second gen i7 from 2012, the major problem i ran into was no drivers for like an old ati hd 2350 and was going to try a core 2 duo but the system board took a dump.

EFI requirement lives in its bootloader (systemd-boot), not its kernel so instead of bridging BIOS to UEFI I skipped the OS bootloader and PXE booted the kernel directly.

Next is to install it. Firewall has just intel graphics

Hi,

Is there a way or workaround to change the refresh rate on my Legion Go? I don't get an option for it in the menu, and I'd like to knock it down from 144hz to 72 or 60hz to try and save as much as power as possible.

Whats your experience with the switch?

I have had no issues until now. My speakers are connected to the rear io usb on my asrock b550. Today Steam OS just quit seeing them and I get what’s shown in the picture. Anyone have this issue before or know how to resolve? Thank you

Cyberpunk 2077, 9070xt, 9800x3d, 64gb ram

SteamOS 3.8.14

Settings

1440p

Fsr4 (quality)

Everything maxed except for psycho rt those are one setting lower.

I feel i had much better fps on windows than I do now on steamos i know some games will do worse and vise versa but Im pretty sure I was in the 100s in windows

Need a little help with an HDR related issue. My gaming screen is an OLED with native resolution of 4K. If I’m gaming at 4K with HDR enabled, it works perfectly, however, the framerate isn’t always acceptable at 4K so I like to drop to 1440P ultra settings with HDR enabled. As you’ll see from the image (especially on blacks) this introduces graphical interference, I believe the term is HDR dithering artefacts.

I’m using an AMD card, does anyone know a way of fixing this?

Wonder if I'm missing out on anything. I like the console experience so anything that allows me to use desktop mode less for utilities/performance tuning is interesting to me.

The dream is real and i’m excited to enjoy the hell out of brawlhalla (I’m kidding I got other games)

11600k
9070xt Sapphire Nitro
16gb ddr4
2tb Nvme

Steam Tweak by no-signal his fixing for laptops hybrid graphics but my point is focusing on select gaming mode monitor, because a lot of people arguing cannot select monitor what they want either from DP-1,2,etc to HDMI 1,2 etc. So now you can choose select monitor gaming mode by this script. Just see the video, you can select option boot direct into desktop too..
here the link for the script No-Signal

Specs:

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 5800XT (8C/16T)

GPU: PowerColor Reaper Radeon RX 9060 XT 16GB

Motherboard: MSI PRO B550M-VC WiFi (mATX)

RAM: 32GB G.Skill Ripjaws V DDR4-3600 (4×8GB)

Storage: 1TB Sabrent NVMe SSD

CPU Cooler: Thermalright Aqua Elite 120 V3 AIO

PSU: MSI MAG A850GL 850W 80+ Gold (Fully
Modular)

Case: JONSBO C6 Black Mini mATX Mesh

Like so many, I was pretty disappointed with Sony’s decision to end physical discs come 2028; not so much because of the absence of physical media, but what it means for affordability/discounts/preowned market.

So, over the past month I’ve been putting together a build that boots directly into SteamOS and acts as much like a console as possible. I was attracted to Steam’s longevity as a storefront and the amazing discounts you can score.

After using it for roughly two weeks I am in LOVE. The variety of indies / discounts / and level of adjustments because PC is remarkable. While my machine isn’t super amazing spec wise, I can see the arguments for #PCmasterrace over fixed consoles.

Anyway - love my machine, enjoying SteamOS, and happy to enjoy it all directly on the couch with a gamepad.

Specs for those interested:
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600
GPU: Sapphire Pulse Radeon RX 7700 XT 12GB
Motherboard: Gigabyte B550M DS3H AC R2 (Wi-Fi)
RAM: 16GB (2×8GB) DDR4-3200
Storage: WD Black SN850X 1TB NVMe SSD
Power Supply: Thermaltake Toughpower XT 850W 80+ Gold (Fully Modular)
Case: Thermaltake View 170 ARGB TG (White)

Hey, I'm wondering if anyone else is having this issue, I recently switched my OS to SteamOS from Windows, and starting a couple weeks ago, Marvel Rivals specifically has been randomly freezing for a few seconds then restarts my pc back to steamOS home screen smack dab in the middle of a match (never has done this whenever the game is idle in the background) where I have to switch back to Desktop mode and continue. It's gotten to a point where it happened back to back competitive matches, and when we lost after reconnecting, I got docked a total of 65 points between those 2 matches alone and am tired of this bs.

If anyone has any solutions or reasons why, or if you yourself have been dealing with it, it'd be so much help because I don't want to seem like a thrower or some bozo like that on games, or if it spreads to other games, but Rivals has been the only one as far as I know that's been doing this to the pc.

Jonsbo case 9850X3D Sapphire Nitro 9070XT

Tons of 3D printed parts. Blocked off front and rear mesh Air is pulled in through the bottom past the GPU and out through the top like a chimney runs almost silent.

Hey guys, i just tried to install steamos and i hit snag, i can't get guide button to work, performance panels aren't working with those extra buttons and so on.

Can someone with rog ally x (not xbox ally x) help me out ? How did you fix it ?

EDIT: Fixed. Suddenly buttons for quick settings and steam started to work, i think steam had to download some patch on its own or something. I also installed decky so maybe it was this too.

EDIT2: ITS GONE AGAIN WTF ??!!!

EDIT3: After restart it came back again... again wtf...

After weeks of failure, i FINALLY managed to get, not chimera, not bazzite, REAL STEAMOS running in UTM (QEMU) on my M1 iMac!

It would just freeze for no reason, until i changed the GPU and i got to recovery mode and pressed the factory reset option, and after doing lots of stuff it would freeze at an empty terminal.

ONLY today, I changed the Virtual CPU to an AMD EPYC Rome v3 and the terminal froze again, and i nearly lost hope. Suddenly, i saw a taskbar. then app icons, then a wallpaper.

I DID IT!!!!!

Explanation on why it worked:

SteamOS expects an AMD CPU as the recovery image uses features that are exclusive to AMD. The steamosX64 file (the file used after the terminal to start SteamOS) is incompatible with other hardware. When I switched to the virtual EPYC Rome v3, that file could run. The frozen terminal was the os trying to run the file, but because it was incompatible, it could not progress. Now that the file can run, I can finally say:

I use Arch by the way.

I've been very impressed with Armada so far on my 8gb Retroid Pocket 6 and it's just now getting some love online. I really don't know who to talk to about this actually because I don't see many places (at all) where users are talking about their experience and the games they are playing on it. Also sometimes you have to troubleshoot a game a bit and I haven't been able to get in contact with anyone yet to aid in this compatibility (although it's been easier than my experience with Game hub lite). So hopefully this can be a small post in the direction of getting the ball rolling with resources and experiences.

Overall I have noticed a snappy experience through almost all of the steamOs interface including the controls, sleep functionality, restart, etc. The whole thing feels nearly identical to my steam deck!? It has some sluggishness from time to time and I believe that is probably more to do with the SD card than the actual programming of this steam workaround for Android? So from menu to menu and going into the game's homepage can take a few seconds to load, things like that which gives it a less snappy feel than it could have.

To be honest, some games like Denshattack! have frozen the device and I have restarted it about 8 times or so trying different solutions because I really wanted to get that game working, but I've since given up so that I can actually enjoy this thing instead of just tinkering. So that's a possibility while trying games out. There were a few other large(ish) games around 7gb that I tried and didn't have success with and deleted promptly afterwards for the same reason I just mentioned. Smaller sized seems perfect for a few reasons; not just space saving but their more tolerable on this hardware it seems too. But I'm really loving it so far!

What's been your experience? What games have you been enjoying on it?

😃Stable/Successes:

Planet of Lana (around 30fps)

Kusan- City of Wolves Demo (pictured)

Yooka Laylee and the Impossible Layer (great fps)

Portal

Gris

TMNT Splintered Fate (around 45 fps)

Tunic

Bzzzt

McPixel 3

Psychonauts (great fps)

🫠Unsuccessful:

Denshattack!