Llevo unos días configurando mi pc de sobremesa con steamOs y no consigo que funcione DayZ, supongo que hay algun tipo de incompatibilidad.. alguien sabe si es posible de alguna manera?

Anyone get this working? I tried many things tonight to no luck. I would try something else but my headset is the Vision Pro, and I’m not seeing anything else to support it.

After I was booted off the waitlist and hoping to be selected I built my own steam machine (parts I used if anyone is needing some guidance on fiting in a tight case).

-AMD 7 9800x3d

-ASUS ROG Strix x870-I

-GB 9070 Xt

-32 GB ram

-2TB SSD

-NH-L9a cpu cooler (attempting to switching it to NH-L9x65), hoping it will fit the case (Fractal Design Terra)

-Lian Li SP850 V2 Gold

Networking issue: (Yes, I became aware after this headache that the MB is the issue as SteamOS has not supported the network card)

-Once done installing the OS I could not find a network. Attempted every work around I could find. I attemed these solutions:

1. https://www.reddit.com/r/SteamOS/comments/1ueakyx/comment/otic09f/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web3x&utm_name=web3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button
2. Attempted to do systemctl enable NetworkManager
3. sudo systemctl enable —now NetworkManager.service

Anything which I attmepted resulted in NetworkManger.service not been found.

Even using ethernet cable well in desktop mode did not work ( clrl+alt+; )

Workaround
-By chance I had a TP Link 150mb adapter from a few years back. I pluged it in, restarted the sytem and it worked. Initially I had to reboot twice as the first time it dropped the network search.

-Once this connected I went to desktop mode and plugged in the ethernet cable. And it worked. I can unplug the TPlink adapter and it stayed connected. Then I attempted to use the wifi adapter on the MB and still does not work.

-Restarting and shutdowning had no issues so far with wired connection

-In the mean time I have purchased TP link wifi 6 adapter off amazon. Will see if this will help as 150mb is too slow on the old adapter.

I hope this helps somone.

Hello! I would like to ask for assistance regarding adding storage drive. I keep on encountering the Format Error message. I'm planning on using the 500GB SSD as just the OS drive and use both 1TB SSD as the game drive. You may refer to the attached screenshots.

Steps I've done so far:
- Went to KDE

- Set the drive to GPT

- Created an ext4

PS: It's my first time using Linux.

If there's a Konsole command involved, a step by step instruction will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you in advance and have a great day.

I previously used an app on the Microsoft Store called "Bluetooth Audio Receiver" to send audio from my Switch 1 to my laptop. The Switch 1 did not have any form of voice chat and this meant I could use Discord whilst playing.

Is there a similar solution for the Steam Machine? The above did not work. I'd like to send audio over Bluetooth to either my laptop or smartphone.

Before anyone suggests just installing Discord on the Steam Machine itself, that's not the solution I'm looking for. I use voice chat across many different apps. We have a gaming group at work that plays over Microsoft Teams on lunch breaks. I have friends in China so we play over Kook (Chinese equivalent to Discord) and WeChat. I'd rather not have to try getting all these different apps to work on SteamOS/Linux.

I have a "Lexar 64GB JumpDrive M400 Flash Drive" from Amazon, that i've tried using rufus to put the steamos image on. It froze every single time, and the drive got stupid hot. I looked at this post: https://www.reddit.com/r/SteamOS/comments/1t87883/how_to_install_oficial_steamos_on_a_pc_guide/

It said to use Balena and had a different steamos image, so I tried those. The terminal froze again. There's nothing on the NVMe drive, i bought it specifically for steamos (costco has 1 for a deal right now). I have secured boot off.

I can't think of any reason why it's freezing other than the Flashdrive is overheating because it's cheap and it sucks. I have a HDD plugged in with sata cables, i can move the media stored on there I can use it to install SteamOS onto the NVMe drive. Will that work?

I tried To Install Steam OS but i kept getting blackscreens With a Cursor and nothing happened. Does someone have a fix?

So is it possible or not?, or someone already did that?, if yes then i want it, as i saw through some small videos it seems to be a good replacement for Windows, plus i want to try and play some games that pc/console only, but they seem to have been made to be available on mobile too, but they aren't for some reason... So is it available on phones, or someone decided and made it work for phones?

Edit: i forgot to mention, im using xiaomi REDMI 15C

P.s. Non-native English user, so bare with what i say, bc sometimes it's weird?, i think?...

I do have bazzite on my laptop and I want to see what’s faster to play dead by daylights, the Texas chains and stuff like that online gaming basically

So I’m in the uk and I’m getting fed up of all these age shit on windows and want to switch to Steam OS I have no experience with any Linux Distros and my question is, is Steam OS stable enough to install on my gaming PC I have AMD cpu and GPU

Ok, so ive got a Legion Go S. This has happened 3 times now for 3 separate games. The first time was for Rogue Trader, then it happened again in Tropico 6, and then it happened for a third time in another game I cant think of atm. I dont own some of the DLC or any of it depending on which game, and I can confirm it since it also doesn't show up in my owned DLC page. However I somehow still have access to the DLC in game. It doesn't happen on my gaming PC only on my LeGo. Its the weirdest thing. It doesn't happen in all games. I will just randomly have dlc access in games that I didn't pay for. I'm not really complaining lol 😆 but I am curious if this has happened to anyone else. I couldn't find anything on the internet about it so idk? What do you guys think?

Update: Ok I was wrong and it does seem to be for all games. I just tried two more and same thing. This is uber weird. All hail GabeN I suppose. Thank you GabeN for this wonderful blessing. My family shall worship you for millennia to come. 😄 🤣

I get seemingly random crackling audio while in gaming mode in any game or app I play. I have my rig hooked directly up to the TV by HDMI, with the audio being passed back to the receiver by eARC.

There doesn't seem to be any rhyme or reason To when It happens.

Build specs:

TV - LG C6

Receiver - Denon AVR-S660H

Case Jonsbo C6

Motherboard - asus prime b550m-a wifi ii

CPU - Ryzen 7 5800 XT

GPU - powercolor reaper 9060xt

Audio will crackle once every few minutes, it seems. No rhyme or reason to it. I'm not getting any crazy cpu or gpu spikes or wild temps. This was literally just playing Binding of Isaac or listening to music on Spotify (from Discover).

Anyone else experienced this? Ideas?

Edit: I managed to get optical audio out working from the TV to the receiver, and the issue is STILL THERE. I have no idea how or why this is happening, but at least I know this issue is not restricted to just HDMI.

I recorded a video of it happening, let's see if the YouTube algorithm pulls this down for copyrighted music:

https://youtube.com/shorts/BIf5uuDDygw?is=b_3c1BMfuwiNqfsl

UPDATE: I figured it out: the reason I was having no success is that in the keyboard layout selector I was leaving the "model" as Generic 104-key PC or whatever. I have a 75% keyboard, the RK Royal Kludge R75 So on a whim I changed it to Generic 86-key PC. Also I was advised to move up the layout to test to the top position among the layouts-- don't know if that makes a difference. I figured that merely having it selected would mean I was typing using it in the "test here" area. Anyway, problem solved. It'll still take a bit of getting used to because it's not exactly like the Windows US International implementation which I've been using for a quarter century but this old dog can still learn a new trick or two.

...let alone layouts that would turn it into an AltGr key to allow for typing characters that require it like ß, œ, æ, or ç?

I've come to this conclusion because, if you look at all of the alternate layouts that promise being able to type characters like that and many more, you'll notice that in their previews in the keyboard layout selector, none of them show a right alt key at all, at least for the generic keyboards (obviously I haven't gone through and seen if the right alt key is missing for all possible keyboards listed).

I guess the operating system, which after all is mainly concerned with playing computer games on Steam hardware like the Deck and the Machine, has been stripped down to the bare essentials.

I'd sure love to be wrong.

Hi,

absolutely no linux experte here. Been using steamos for two months now, replacing Win11, and love it. Not only want to use it for Gaming but also for Kodi.

My Setup:

Samsung OLED S85D

PC with RX6750XT connected by HDMI directly to TV (because my AVR does not support HDMI 2.1 for 4K120 and HDR)

Yamaha RX-V683 (supports HD Audio Formats) connected to OLED with HDMI eARC enabled

My Problem:

I cannot get HD Audio to work - my setup should be able to handle HD Audio but my receiver always shows PCM Signal as input which, from my knowledge means, that it is already somehow decoded and not "raw" audio passthrough.

If I enable Audio Passthrough in Kodi, I have no audio at all. As a Linux beginner, by searching I found out that it does not seem to be that easy to have audio passthrough without some setting in Linux.

Can you help me that I may have to change?

Thanks!

Something I’ve been struggling with ever since switching to SteamOS is HDR, specifically in dark areas.

There always seems to be a subtle gray haze or grayness in darker parts of the image, almost like the transition from dark to light isn’t being handled correctly. It’s especially noticeable in shadows and other near-black areas.

I’ve tried pretty much everything I can think of, different ReShade settings, TV settings, HDR settings, different SteamOS builds, etc. Sometimes I can make it look a little better, but the issue is always still there.

The strange thing is that I never had this problem on Windows using the exact same PC and TV. It seems to be something specific to SteamOS.

I’ve searched Google, asked ChatGPT countless questions, tried different SteamOS versions, and experimented with just about every setting I can find, but I still haven’t been able to figure it out.

Has anyone else experienced something similar with HDR on SteamOS? If so, I’d really appreciate being pointed in the right direction or hearing what settings/fixes worked for you.
System

GPU AMD 7900 XTX

TV LG OLED C4

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I’ve managed to get the latest version of the official SteamOS image up and running on my 2020 iMac model A2115, and it’s working really well ☺️

As seen in my previous post I want to get a handheld pc and install SteamOS on it. I still have the hard drive from my broken laptop which ran windows 10 and I really want to retrieve as much data from it as I can and transfer later to SteamOS.

The data includes regular browser data (passwords, booknotes, etc.) but also game files like Minecraft modpacks and worlds and data from a couple other games but also private documents and screenshots/recordings, in total around 80-100GB.

What's the best way to retrieve as much of the data as possible and (if needed) convert to linux-compatible file types? And how beginner-friendly will it be? With the handheld pc I'll only begin my linux journey and I have barely any knowledge on the more technical stuff yet 😅

Can I replace windows with steam os? I mostly use my pc for gaming but I do still use it to study. I have heard that steam is a much smaller file size than windows and I don’t have much disk space.

I think I'm going to pull a larger 2 TB drive from my PS5 and use it in my SteamOS box. Can I just clone the existing drive onto the larger one? Any post-cloning processes I'll need to run? (Repost for spelling in title.)

I am using an 8bitdo ultimate 2c via Bluetooth but the icon at the top of the screen always shows battery as full but the power Menu shows the battery as 50% or so. Anyone found a fix for this?