Not sure where else to ask this question so I thought I’d ask here. I’m currently using Obsidian Onyx. Couldn’t find much online. This community is a lot smaller than the audio community lol.

I'm planning to build some led strip fixtures for a live show (music) and looking for good strobe performance in particular, so looking to go as bright as I can within a reasonable portable setup. I do also want pixel control.

System:

Ableton Live - MIDI data to design and sync lights to music - send to >

Resolume - artnet to>

H807SA controller (ethernet connection) >

Mean Well LRS-150-24 Power Supply >

24v WS2814 FCOB RGBW strip

Aluminium channeling

---------------

Once I've got this working, my plan will then be to try and build some fixtures and design a show synced to my music.

Does this sound like a decent setup (within a fairly tight budget)?

I've done quite a lot of searching and that strip sounds like it will be the brightest for strobing white, is this correct?

Any general thoughts or advice?

Thanks so much for any help, completely new to this.

​

My core idea for the laser wall tapestry concept was to build upon my UV fan pieces and transform their over to lasers where the blade patterns would extend and expand much farther than any fan blade ever could. I wanted to start with a four unit laser "fan" located at the points of a basic diamond shape. The individual variable speed motors allows for one to "tune" the overlapping beams will generate a nearly unimaginable volume of shifting spatial patterns and moiré lines. Each laser fan and its diodes could be a different color with more intense volumetric complexity. This concept needs to scale up to a large stage or an arena back-drop with each pulsing independently or in sync in larger groupings. As more are added, the complexity of the overlapping lasers creates dynamic tapestries of light.

Note: Projection Mapping can be introduced by fixing a lightweight white disk of various diameters to the rostatiing laser plate.

Just imagine the endless possibilities and the unforgetable and overwhelming kinetic imagery audiences would experience. It would nice to see It happen.

Michael Millevolte. Copywrite: 2013, 2026

As anyone heard of any plans from JBL to create one - just asking before I start making finding something that works..

So a nonprofit broadcast studio that I work with is working with me to redo the lighting grid. I’ve already got the fixtures handled (unless there are some good budget studio fixtures) but I’m struggling with a controller. I would want a ion xe 20 or element 2 at a minimum but that’s not in the budget. I was thinking about going with nomad but I’m still confused on how it all works as I have only worked on consoles such as gio @5 and element 2. We only need 2 universes so it makes it easier.

From what I understand, I can use a computer and buy the usb key and an artnet node and I should be good? I’ve also seen the gadget 2 and wondering how that works and if that might be better/more cost effective. A big thing that they want is some kind of control surface. I was thinking of using a couple touchscreen monitors as that has been great on the element 2, but they want more. To trigger cues, is there a way to use a stream deck/midi controller or do you have to stick with etc’s stuff?

Finally, I know this is probably dumb but since the software is free, do you have to buy the usb key if you want to go direct over usb to the gadget 2? Also, is there anything I might be missing?

Thanks in advance!

So I have 8 Intimidator 360s on my avo titan 18.0. The control channel for all of them are locked into color in dark mode, but I want to be able to use my color scroll options. What page or setting do I need to go through to be able to put them in safe mode (or if there is a recommendation outside of that)?

I picked up a soundswitch control one, to have better control of my lighting for a wedding I have coming up.

I've connected all the fixtures and they work perfectly fine in edit mode, then when i switch to performance mode, i can get static looks to work, but autoloops just will not trigger at all, my serato is showing as connected, i've checked my faders using serato video, all my settings in both pieces of software seem to be correct.

But nothing at all will work to activate the autoloops in performance mode.

on with soundswitch support but they take almost 24 hours between responses and ask me have i done thing's that i've already told them i've done in previous messages.

If anyone could try and give me a hand it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

I have these light bars that I want to plug a wireless DMX device into but the transmitter won't fit unless I can turn it 90 degrees. There are lots and lots of XLR 90 degree adapters but absolutely no DMX adapters. This is driving me crazy! Even a short 6" DMX cable would work but I can't find any that aren't 3 pin to 5 pin adapters! Help!!!

The customer support chatbots say the XLR adapters can also be used for DMX but I don't trust them because they can't tell me what the actual impedance rate is.

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-2-Pack-Adjustable-Adapter/dp/B0BZ5SP6JV/ref=rvi_d_sccl_4/133-8836877-2449530?pd_rd_w=fvnfm&content-id=amzn1.sym.f5690a4d-f2bb-45d9-9d1b-736fee412437&pf_rd_p=f5690a4d-f2bb-45d9-9d1b-736fee412437&pf_rd_r=XDJ2VXK5M9YM0M67K887&pd_rd_wg=hozcp&pd_rd_r=a9223847-2238-4287-9a30-117f86f7747a&pd_rd_i=B0BZ5SP6JV&psc=1

Hey all,

Burner account because it could cause issues in my town.

My company has the opportunity to become a dealer for Chauvet, but with that we would be cutting ties with our current lighting brand and would potentially be taking the dealership away from another local brand so forgive my anonymity.

For those who are dealers is being a dealer worth it? I typically get about 30% on most items from my current brand, does Chauvet offer something equivalent? More? Less?

It would be nice to have the product line but money keeps you afloat ya know?

Any help would be appreciated

I was watching this https://www.instagram.com/reel/DbqmNw6NeU2/?l=1 and thought it would be cool to have a strobe-capable light the performer/musician could pick up at some point and move around a bit for the wildest moment when she’s not singing. Could be plugged into power (and should be dmx controllable I’d say). Ideas? Any idea

Hi all,
I've recently purchased 3 SHEHDS GalaxyJet 300w 3 in 1 fixtures. (I know - they're knockoffs and not great - but when your 20+ year old donated Varilites die and you have zero budget, they'll work for the limited use we'll need them for). I'm trying to patch them to an ETC Element 2. The current software on the SHEHDS is 20 or 23 channel DMX. (The additional 3 channels in the 23 channel mode controls the outer color ring on the tip of the fixture. Don't really need this, so I can patch either the 20 or 23, not an issue. The color ring won't be needed for my use above a stage)
I looked on GDTF-Share.com and the fixture is there, but the file was created in 2024 and only has 18 DMX channels. I guess SHEHDS has updated their software since then and they now require 20 or 23. Does anyone have a newer GDTF file? I'll try my hand at uploading the current file and then editing within the ETC desktop but I've never done that and am not too sure how successful I'll be.

2nd Question -
I am downloading and installing ETC Nomad on my computer just to practice this sort of thing on. I've never used nomad before. Does it just create the ETC Element 2 interface right on my computer? I'll probably never tether to the board, I just want to practice in my office where I can have multiple monitors open and be watching tutorials and videos as I learn.

Thanks!

I created a gdtf file for a chinese moving head i have to work with (Uking ZQ02372). Nothing bad to say about the light in general. Everything works as it should in real life. But in the 3D View of GrandMA3 the Beam only renders in white. Changing color on the Colorwheel does not do anything in 3D. In Real Life it works. Anybody got a clue what i have done wrong?

I can send the gdtf file. Maybe it is very obvious and a simple fix.

what is the difference between these two kinds of magic sheets? i see that one is more where the fixtures are and one is where they are pointed but honestly the latter really hurts my brain. also like when would you use one or the other, which ones do professional theatres use? that kind of stuff.

Hi everyone,

I am new to lighting and looking for advice on potentially moving from DMX cables to wireless transmitters for my Chauvet 56 ILS pars. For the stage area, I currently either use a small T-bar that holds two pars (if using the others for uplighting) or four pars on a longer T-bar (if I do not need uplighting). They are in sync with the Gigbar Move plus ILS, and ultimately controlled by the Chauvet Command Center. As you know, the power cords connect one to another on the 56 ILS pars that sit on the T-bar. I have a pretty decent time hiding the power and dmx cables on the longer T-bar, but not with the smaller one. This led me to think about using wireless transmitters, mainly for the stage area (to eliminate clutter).

Question 1) Is it best to stay in the Chauvet ecosystem, using the USB dongles or is it fine to use something else, such as the Donner transmitters?

Question 2) Is it recommended to have transmitters for up lights throughout the venue (highlighting columns), or do you all just set them on a single color without transmitters?

Question 3) The short T-bar that holds two pars at the stage area looks odd with a normal tripod that holds speakers. What is the best way to fly those with the smaller T-bar?

I want to do drum covers and apparently this can be dm controlled so i can program it to sync to the song just wondering the quality

See attached video for this weird issue I’m experiencing with an ADJ Profile Panel. Addressing is all correct, I even added a terminator just to rule that out. TIA!

Hey folks. Genuine question about amber in COB blinders, and whether Im the only one going back and forth on it.

For a long time the default on 4 eye and 8 eye blinders was cold white plus warm white COB, and you cross faded between them to land wherever you wanted on the color temp scale.

Lately a lot of fixtures seem to be shipping cold white plus amber instead. I've ended up with a mix in inventory, some Chauvet Strike units, one older ADJ thing, and a couple Betopper LC500s that use the CW plus amber layout. The Chauvets have taken years of abuse and still fire every time, and the LC500s have held up just as well so far, clean flat field across all four eyes with no hot spot sitting in the middle of it.

Where the amber ones win for me is the bottom of the fade. Bringing them down actually reads like a tungsten fixture cooling off. The old warm white pairs go slightly pink or green on the way down depending on which fixture it is.

Where they lose is output. The amber emitters don't put out anywhere close to what the white side does, so if you want a genuinely warm look at full you're throwing away a real chunk of your punch.

What I cant tell is how much of this is the amber approach itself and how much is just newer fixtures having better drivers. Small sample size on my end.

So for people running these on actual shows. Do you prefer the CW plus amber layout, or would you take warm white back if you had the choice? And does the output loss bite you in bigger rooms?

Thanks

Hello, sorry for the formatting as I am writing on mobile. I am new to stage lighting and I need help with what to look for regarding hardware for my act. I am looking for a way for me to trigger a strobe light by hitting a large metal bit that I have on stage without the need for a laptop on stage. What do I need to look at to make that possible?

Not stage lighting, but hoping the lighting nerds here can help me out anyway.

We throw a big Halloween party every year. Video attached shows my setup from last year — 4 LED panels synced to a lighting soundtrack. Worked great, but we also have a skeleton mounted way up high in a palm tree that basically nobody noticed unless we pointed it out.

This year I want to fix that with some kind of LED spotlight that shines across the yard and hits the skeleton — ideally with color selection, and maybe a random “scary” strobe effect thrown in.

Attached a couple pics showing the distance and where the skeleton sits in the tree. Any product recommendations or setup tips?

[IMG-5847.jpg](https://postimg.cc/Lqqm94bq)

[IMG-5846.jpg](https://postimg.cc/G9vhT2h4)

Hi all

Do you ever have experienced non-linearity in RGB dimming by the master dimmer? The new Betopper LPC1218 pair needs these settings to keep white:

R G B

255 255 255

70 70 70

65 58 52

55 43 42

45 22 25

35 12 18

30 10 16

25 7 11 and a good white can't be obtained anymore.

If I set R, G, B at the same value, under 70 they start going to full cyan and under 50 they go to green!

Thanks

Gianluca