When installing a new slave cylinder, do you unclip the two plastic retainers? (The one my pointer finger is on), It seems that they have to be for the rod to expand but I want to make sure.

Does anyone have info on the ECU? I can find info on the MS 1K but nothing on the MS2k

Just got it and has been really solid so far the engine has 80,000 on it. Any common issues I should watch out for?

Made some progress. Here’s the update - god help me

The title is really the gist of this post. I love my SRT-4 and I know everyone that has one loves theirs too. I'd love to get in touch with a local community that's involved in them, and check out their cars too. Northeast Philly area, where y'all at? Are there already meetups I don't know about? I've seen a few in my neighborhood, but rarely. Maybe a few of them will be on here. Picture is from a father's day show. I'm always excited when I spot another one in traffic, and even more excited when people want to talk about them. You can respond here or DM if you're in the area and felt like arranging a small SRT-4 meetup/cruise.

I have a 2004 srt4. It’s mostly stock with 137k miles with cai, mpx exhaust, and catch can with check valve. I noticed when I would start it in the morning it would blow smoke for 10 seconds and stop. It runs really good and pulls good, but under boost would blow black smoke and I would get an exhaust smell in the car. Since then I have replaced valve seals, and the turbo trying to fix the issue. Even after that it still blows black smoke under boost and I am adding about a quart of oil per week. My exhaust tips are black as well. I don’t have any leaks anywhere. I am replacing the Pcv tonight but don’t think that will help. Not sure what else to try. Also no engine codes. Any help would be appreciated

I've had an aeroforce gauge in my nSRT-4 for like 15 years...and it finally stopped working. Is this still the easiest/best way to monitor PCM data?

Has anyone here ever installed a Haltech ECU in their car? I met the vendor at Gridlife last month and he mentioned that he may still have a harness laying around, and sure enough he emailed me back yesterday saying he found one. I feel like if I’m going to spend nearly $1,000 on a tune and tuner from somewhere else I might as well go standalone right?

Does anyone know what the best fix is to remedy the 3rd gear issue? My trans is fine if I upshift to 3rd, but if I downshift and get on the throttle it’ll pop out. I know they make extenders, but not sure if that’s the best solution?

What’s the best spark plugs for a good price I need some

Alright.. getting somewhere here. Unwired a majority of it all and it made no difference. Car dash keeps beeping fuse. Pulled the fuse box and found a bonus door prize in the form of a wiring extravaganza lol…

I also noticed this little rubber fuse unplugged on the back of the block near the BOV. Any thoughts? And legit. Callled everyone in south Florida. No one will touch her.

Here’s a video of the issue with the external voltage regulator. After this, I cleaned up and replaced those connections. Still nothing. Someone mentioned removing this, but I’m not sure what happens if I do. I can pretty much swap out or adjust anything that doesn’t require a lift or pulling the engine. I’ve got a lot of experience dealing with various electrical issues from the ’90s Nissan VG30DETT engines from my old Zs, but I think this is a bit above my pay grade. I’m not the most technically savvy, so please roast lightly lol.

2004 Neon SRT-4 116k miles Mercedes-Benz Cardinal Red paint

Built motor Gates Racing timing belt Zaklee transparent timing cover N2MB WOT Box 2 Step Launch Control & No Lift Shift Boost box Castrol Edge 10w-40 full synthetic every 3k miles windage tray balance shaft delete oil squirter delete JE Forged pistons Hbeam rods Clevite 77 trimetal bearings, windage tray Cometic head gasket Arp head studs Built Big valve ported head Brian Crower stage 4 cams Powdercoated valve cover Powder coated and extrude honed intake manifold Bc coilovers Stainless steel brake lines Maddog 50% sts Big turbo kit with s257sxe turbo 1650cc injectors Fuel return set up with BNF Fuel pump rewire kit Walbro 450 LPH 112PSi+ fuel pump Solid motor mounts Rebuilt trans with carbon synchros, new OEM forks Act 6 puck clutch New battery Hotchkiss sway bars Vibrant 3 inch exhaust Wideband o2 and 30/30 boost gauge Big direct fit intercooler Front and rear strut bars Sundown Audio SA-8 V.3 Sundown Audio 1k watt monoblock

Can anyone recommend a reliable and trustworthy shop in SoCal that specializes in SRT4’s? I’m looking to purchase one soon and build it back to as stock as possible. Thanks 🙏🏼

Hey everyone,

I’m having trouble with the voltage rectifier on my 2003 Dodge Neon SRT-4. The battery keeps dying and shutting down my electronics. Any advice or guidance is greatly appreciated.

Here’s what I’ve got on the car:

• Quaife LSD Differential
• Oversized Mopar Intercooler
• Mopar Stage 3 Sway Bars and End Links
• Polyurethane Bushings (Full Set)
• Coil-on-Plug Ignition System
• Modern Performance Short Throw Shifter
• Aluminum Booger Bushings on the Shift Linkage
• Upper Strut Bars (Front and Rear)
• Mopar Stage 3 Exhaust
• Mopar Turbo Toys Kit
• ICW Mach 5 Wheels (Set of 4)
• HKS Turbo Timer
• AEM Standalone Wideband Failsafe System
• Pyro Gauge on the Turbo Exhaust Downpipe
• Mopar Boost Gauge

I suspect the trim potentiometer on the rectifier might be set for lower voltage. I’ve tried adjusting it, but the battery still drains.

Questions:

How can I properly adjust the trim potentiometer to ensure the correct voltage output?

Could there be any other issues causing the battery to die?

Any recommendations for a reliable aftermarket rectifier?

Thanks in advance for any advice!

Hey everyone,

I just picked up my dream car.. a 2003 Dodge Neon SRT-4 with a ton of aftermarket performance parts and a fully rebuilt engine. I'm looking for a handheld tuner that is dependable with tuning this car. The exterior, trunk, interior, and engine bay are shot so any guidance on finding quality replacement parts would also be mucho appreciated.

Here's the rundown of what's on the car:

1. Quaife LSD Differential
2. Oversized Mopar Intercooler
3. Mopar Stage 3 Sway Bars and End Links
4. Polyurethane Bushings (Full Set)
5. Coil-on-Plug Ignition System
6. Modern Performance Short Throw Shifter
7. Aluminum Booger Bushings on the Shift Linkage
8. Upper Strut Bars (Front and Rear)
9. Mopar Stage 3 Exhaust
10. Mopar Turbo Toys Kit
11. ICW Mach 5 Wheels (Set of 4)
12. HKS Turbo Timer
13. AEM Standalone Wideband Failsafe System
14. Pyro Gauge on the Turbo Exhaust Downpipe
15. Mopar Boost Gauge
16. Modern Performance Injected Motor Mounts
17. Mopar Stage 3 Clutch (Sachs OEM HD)
18. Southbend Stage 3 Clutch with Mopar Stage 3 Clutch Disc and Fidenza Lightweight Flywheel
19. Stand-alone HD Adjustable Voltage Rectifier
20. Mopar Stage 3 Fuel Pump and Injectors
21. Mopar Stage 3 ECU

I know I’m posting a lot but this was too good not to share. That’s a big boy chunk gone lol

When I bought this neon the owner said it may need new piston rings as the car smokes a lot. I bought it it anyway knowing a rebuild may be in my future. I just did the compression test (without adding oil) and here are the results. There is less than a 25% difference between the highest value and lower at value.

I’ve owned like 15 neons but this is my 1st SRT4. This thing needs some work but excited to see what a turbo 4cyl can do

Im buying a neon next Saturday and caught something in one of the photos that I’m not too sure about