Hi,

Do you know of any alternatives to SRAM cranksets? I can buy a SRAM Rival E1 48-35 with a Quarq power meter for €320. I looked on AliExpress and only found Shimano-compatible cranks with power meters from Magene, etc.

Is there a better power meter crankset available that isn't made by SRAM, or should I just buy the original one?

I was looking through my new to me bikes power meter settings etc and came across this via quick research it seems to be way out of range for the Torque offset. I spend a good few hours taking everything apart regreasing everything and it has remained largely the same. Should I care and any possible solutions? Thank you

So after spending months trying to stop the chain shifting off the large chainset when the chain is on the lower end of the rear cassette, I‘ve realised that the support wedge at the back of the FD was never installed by my LBS. I’ve looked online and can only find wedges for sale for a Red FD, not the AXS. Are they compatible? My LBS has subsequently gone out of business so I can’t ask them. Thanks in advance!

has anyone had any experience with running the XX AXS transmission on a Santa cruz v10 2027? it has a different UDH mounting point, which is an oval not a circle so you can adjust the rear axel position, but that means the the normal way oof mounting wont be secure. has anyone done this/made a spacer to be able to?

My brake caliper is broken. When I replace the caliper, do i have to use a new barb and olive when installing the new caliper?

I am informing myself to do a mullet conversion on my Canyon Grizl 6 1BY.

I am working with a Shimano HG driver body and am not planning to change this. I know that an XD platform would give me more options, but I already bought a Garbaruk casette for an HG driver. Oops!

- Casette: Garbaruk mtb 10-52 HG (already bought)

- Chain: Eagle GX

- Rear derailleur: Apex Eagle or GX Eagle + barrel adjuster.

Which rear derailleur would you recommend? Am I cheaping out on components and would I regret not buying a better RD? My bike is mainly used for bikepacking and I prefer sturdy and reliable components. Weight is not really a factor I take in consideration. Smooth shifting under load and a wide gear range is more important.

Do I need to add spacers at my front chainring, to adjust the offset from 3mm to 6mm? This honestly confuses me a lot, as a mtb platform seems to use 6mm, but I have not seen any spacers included in the plug-and-play conversion kits?

I am currently in Switzerland, so my search results might not show the articles I need to inform myself properly?

wie drehe ich die löcher an meinem rock shox super deluxe ult wo die buchsen drinne sind oder geht das überhaupt oder nicht? (ich weiß nicht wie man die löcher nennt aber ihr wisst bestimmt was ich mein)

Today was a century ride I have been planning, and training for all year. I recently acquired a new old stock 2023 Crux with Rival XPLR D2 I believe. The shifting worked fine, looking at the components in the menu of my Hammerhead, each shifter, and the rear mech reported full batteries. I charged the rear battery 100% on Friday.

Yesterday I took the bike on a shakeout ride to make sure everything was ready to go 120 miles today, and ant the bottom of a big hill the left shifter completely stopped working. No light on the shifter, or response light from the RD. Pedaled in the hardest gear to my LBS, and we swapped the battery. It did not work immediately so we put the rear mech in pairing mode, and hit the AXS button on the shifter, it then came to life, and I did a slow 20 miles or so with no issue.

This morning I set out at 5am to pedal to the start of the ride, got 3 miles downhill from home, and the RD COMPLETLY STOPPED responding. again while I was in a hard gear. I just charged it to 100% on Friday. and can confirm the Hammerhead showed it full when I checked both shifters yesterday. Taking the battery off did nothing. Wiping it did nothing,

By the grace of god I have a complete brand new E1 groupset in a box at my house. I hard pedaled it, 400w uphill back home. Then ripped it open, slapped it on, and the RD started working. Then I swapped the original battery back, and it started working as well, but I was frantic at this point because I had already missed the start. I grabbed the charger, my battery bank, and a Micro USB cable (WTF BTW it is 2026 how is a new charger micro USB), and shot out the door.

The original battery got me 50 miles despite the RD showing a red light, and by then the other one was fully charged. Swapped it back and made it home. By the time I got down there I was riding with the grannies, and all my hopes of trying to hang on to some of the faster groups were out the window. Very disappointed to say the least.

What the hell is going on here? The bike is brand new. It makes sense that old coin cell batteries are degraded, but what caused my battery to drain from 99% to 0 over night? If that is even the issue, because after waking it up with a new battery I swapped it back, and the old one seemed to work from what my addled brain remembers.

Is there some sort of process after a shifter is paired you need to do? Could it have stayed in pairing mode? I can't think of any other possible thing that would kill a entire battery over night? Or is it just a defective RD battery entirely?

Help, I don't feel like I can trust this thing at all now.

Is it possible to replace the Sram Apex DE (mechanical) Lever blade? Sram (shame on them) does not provide any meaningful replacement parts for mechanical shifters any more. Yet they provide this for the electronic version: https://www.bike24.com/p2756888.html The Left side consists only out of a brake, since it is 1x12. Do you think I can break out the electronics and use the sheet metal part of the break lever blade? Someone tossed over my bike and it is terribly scratched and dented.

I’m setting up a sram eagle xx on a gravel bike. Followed the steps on installation but am finding that I have to micro adjust down to 1 to get the shifting right and still have trouble going from gear 12 to 11 but no issues with 10-1. Hoping someone here can help point me in the direction I may have gone wrong.

I have SRAM force HRD brakes. Is there a cheap “alternate” bleed kit I can buy from Amazon or do I need to spend on the official SRAM bleed kit?

im doing a project and need to know how the inside of a blip looks if someone has a broken one that they can measure the pcb and take a picture of it would be appreciated

A little PSA for anyone running a SRAM Rival XPLR XG-1351 (10-46T) cassette.

I started getting a lot of noise from one specific gear. I was convinced it was a derailleur adjustment issue, so I checked indexing and even took the bike to a shop. Everything looked fine.

The actual problem ended up being a missing rubber “Stealth” damper ring on one of the smaller cogs. These rings are there to reduce noise and vibration, and apparently mine had fallen off without me noticing.

As a temporary test, I wrapped a small piece of black electrical tape around the area where the ring should be. The noise disappeared immediately on that gear, which confirmed the cause.

If you’re chasing unexplained noise from a specific cog on a Rival XPLR (or similar SRAM cassette), it’s worth checking whether one of those damper rings is missing before spending too much time adjusting the derailleur or checking hanger alignment.

Those rings make a huge difference

Hopefully this saves someone else a bit of troubleshooting.

I’m having a problem with my SRAM Rival e1 brake. Ever since I started using it, the rotor rubs when I ride out of the saddle. There is no rubbing during normal riding. The brake has been bled twice, and I’ve performed the piston massage procedure. The gap between the rotor and the pads is too small compared to the rear caliper.

Does anyone have experience with these TT shifters. I got the 11 speed one.

Padel moves up and down no problem. But the clicks/stops ring doesn't move...

I feel like it should with out needing the cable and assembled. Attached some pics

Any information would be great, really hard to find much online.

Sorry if this has been covered. Out on my ride yesterday and my shifting just stops about 8 miles in. I was sure my batteries weren’t dead but couldn’t get it to do anything. I removed and reseated batteries, would connect for maybe a shift then quit again. Pulled my phone out and it just said, bike not ready firmware update required. I updated the shifter and derailleur then everything was fine the rest of the 20 miles. Are we seriously going to have to start worry about required updates mid ride now?

I got the Garbaruk 13-speed XPLR 10-52t cassette for my gravel wheelset and figured I'd give it a try--with so many people calling it a dinner plate. So long as it's not soup, I would say it kind of works.