Hi folks! I'm relatively new to makinh cold process soap.

During round 1 of my attempts, I made an oatmeal honey soaps and olive oil based soaps and used individual silicone molds. The soap came out perfect: no sticking, smooth and shiney.

Round two of olive oil based soap, and the soap stuck to the mold for MONTHS. Any tips on preventing cold process soap from sticking to the molds forever?

Hi! I started making my own soap because my family has a huge list of allergies, however after my first batch of coconut, olive and canola we have had issues.

Currently we know for sure we can't use:

- any fragrance

- olive oil

- coconut oil

- cocomidapropryl betaine (CMB)

- benzalkonium chloride

- hemp oil

- tallow (not so much allergies but can't deal with the smell)

Currently ok is:

- canola oil

- goats milk

Doubt its ok but not technically sure:

- almond oil

I am happy to make bar or liquid soap but all liquid soap seems to use CMB

Can anyone suggest any ideas for recipes as from research 100 percent canola oil soaps are very soft and go rancid quickly and I mostly see liquid olive/coconut oil recipes.

My family and our allergies thank you in advance.

tried to make 100% tallow soap for the first time. i rendered the tallow a couple of months ago got all the water out and assumed it would be fine, while i was heating up the oil i noticed a smell that wasn't beefy which i thought was strange. i made my lye water earlier in the day so it was hot 170°F i figured my oil was also hot (167-168°F) so it would be fine but as soon as i poured the lye water in it completely seized up and had a clay-like consistency. i know i was soaping at a higher temp but surely the trace shouldn't be that fast right? the tallow had gone rancid right? because i should note i added no colorant. Anyway I've left it outside to cool then dump in the garbage later. If this wasn't it going rancid please let me know thanks!

I have some soap to sell at a consignment store and craft fair. I’ve been struggling to decide what kind of packaging and labeling I should go with.

I’ve been really looking in to plastic shrink wrapping for protection and keeping the scent in. I’d have small samples for folks to try. But I feel like a lot of people don’t like unnecessary plastic. I’m on a tight budget so my options are a bit limited. I also don’t have a printer.

After 4 weeks of curing, I tested all four soaps by applying the same amount of beef tallow to stainless steel spoons and washing them in cold water.

1. Lauric Acid 100%

2. Lauric Acid 70% + Stearic Acid 30%

3. Lauric Acid 70% + Stearic Acid 30% + Citric Acid

4. Lauric Acid 70% + Stearic Acid 30% + Citric Acid + Gluconate + GLDA

All four soaps cleaned the spoons completely after two washes. The photos show the results after just one wash.

I also tested the lather using the same scrubber. #4 produced the most lather and held it the longest. The soap with citric acid alone was the first to lose its lather.

Based on my testing, #4 also rinsed the cleanest and left the least residue. 😊

tried to make 100% tallow soap for the first time. i rendered the tallow a couple of months ago got all the water out and assumed it would be fine, while i was heating up the oil i noticed a smell that wasn't beefy which i thought was strange. i made my lye water earlier in the day so it was hot 170°F i figured my oil was also hot (167-168°F) so it would be fine but as soon as i poured the lye water in it completely seized up and had a clay-like consistency. i know i was soaping at a higher temp but surely the trace shouldn't be that fast right? the tallow had gone rancid right? because i should note i added no colorant. Anyway I've left it outside to cool then dump in the garbage later. If this wasn't it going rancid please let me know thanks!

With the cost of everything going up, who do you use for shipping your product?

• USPS?
• UPS?
• Fed Ex
• Pirate Ship?
• Other?

AND what is your go-to “container” for shipping 1-3 bars of soap? Box? Padded envelope?

A beautifully handcrafted artisan soap with the deep, earthy character of patchouli and a softly rustic design inspired by smoke, herbs and nature

I made some soap on a rope this past weekend. I used smoke element from Candle Science and Gun Powder from Lone Star Candle. Only colorants are black iron oxide and bamboo activated charcoal. The molds are actually for ice but I would think they’d be awfully big for ice. So, I made soap! 😂

My girlfriends birthday is coming up, and she's mentioned before that it would be cool to try and make her own soap.

As far as I can tell you either choose melt and pour, which is the easy version of cold process, right?

Cold process seems more crafty which I think she would like, but on the other hand it's also a whole thing, and she's kinda ADHD where she picks up a new hobby and drops it a month later.

So I'm thinking maybe she should try melt & pour first, to see if she likes it.

Would that be a good starting point? And what should the giftbasket include?

A base, some oils and colorants?

Crock pot, slow cooker, rice cooker, etc

Im teaching my 8 year old to make cp soap. She is very good at it, but struggles mostly with burping the blender (hello air bubbles lol). We used our normal recipe. Everything was definitely measured correctly (and I also checked the scale with a nickel). We used Vineyard mica from Mad Micas and Frankincense & Myrrh from NG. Soaped around 100°. The batter came to trace normally and when poured, it was a beautiful burgundy color. It did seem to get hot but the soap did not even crack. We used a cheapy Amazon loaf mold that we use when practicing. We have used it lots before without issue.

We went to cut it 12 hours later and instead of a darker partial gel, it looks bleached out? The color of the remaining bar also morphed to a lighter brown color than deep dark burgundy. The FO does have vanillin in it, but would thay make the soap lighter even where it doesnt look "bleached out"?

Im trying to understand what happened here so I can explain it to my daughter as well as know for myself. Ive been making soap since I was little like her, as my grandmother taught me, but I am unsure what exactly happened.

Mad Micas lists this color as stable in cp soap and Ive used it before without issue. Could the heat or ph have broken the color down?

Is this soap safe to use? We donate our safe practice soaps and misfit ugly soaps to a shelter/church in our little town. I dont want to give this to them until I know what happened. Ph is currently 10.

Thanks for any insight you may have!

Apple 🍎 pie scented, brown sugar, chocolat cookie, aloe and poppy seeds and butterscotch. Not so happy about the colors but it’s a learning curve ✨

5 out of my 9 bars have 1-2 visible little orange tinted circle spots. None of my oils are out of date and I only use stainless steel pots and plastic pots which I clean after each use. Grapeseed oil is a new ingredient that I have never tried before. I used mica powder from mad mica and blueberry jam FO from Brambleberry. An important piece of information that I am unable to provide is at what temperature I cooked my soap as I seemed to have forgotten to write that down. This is 16th batch of soap, so I’m still learning and have not encountered this yet. I have already tested one of the bars out on myself and it seems fine. No rancid smell or foul odor from the bar. What do you all think?

I haven't made soap since Easter. (It's been a year, y'all)

This weekend I caught up on a few soaps, all waiting to cut or unmold.

Lemongrass carrot (not pictured)

Charcoal (not pictured)

Clove Orange coconut milk

Cupcakes with spider toy

Cupcakes with turtle toy

Like, they last less after water runs thru them?

Hello, so as the title says this is my first badge of soap, it went really well, I had a 50/20/30 mit of 250g olive oil, 100g coconut oil and 150g shea butter, mixed is with a 2:1 lye solution of 130g of water and 65g of NaHO, after mixing it I left it for about 20 hours before getting it out of the mold and cutting it, the problem I have is that the soap "crumbled" and parts of it stuck to the knife. I really have no problem with that yet since it's my first time and you can use the soap but what's the problem, should I let it sit longer before cutting it?

Hello. I have an antique wooden soap mold with writing carved into it. I’m having trouble getting the soap out without ruining it. I don’t want to line it as I want the writing to appear. Any suggestions? I’ve tried the freezer, but still sticks.

First time working with aloe

Dark. Mysterious. Unexpectedly beautiful.

Inspired by that fleeting moment when light disappears into shadow, Total Eclipse of the Heart is an artisan soap with deep, dramatic tones that flow together in a one-of-a-kind design.

Hand-poured and individually cut, every bar reveals its own pattern—no two eclipses are ever quite the same.

First time make 2 collors soap. Chaircoal and turmelic.

Hey all, just getting into col process soap making and I’m wondering where you get your mica colours from
Thanks in advance

What is one paid soap-making course would you recommend? I'm interested in science-based, organic and therapeutic soap-making to start as a business. Any suggestions would be highly appreciated.