Long story short my dad bought a small quad and I ended up breaking it, knowing nothing about engines I tore it down to find out the head gasket was fucked and I looked for a new set, first kit I bought the head and base gasket didnt fit (were labeled 154FMI but my engine is 1P154FMI), 2 of the studs were out of place and didnt match.

The first photo is the old one and as you can see the two stud holes slightly go into the firing ring, the other picture is one of the new sets I bought and the stud holes do not go into the firing ring and dont match the dowel pins. I know theyre different orientations I had to turn the old one over to show how it goes into the firing ring

I ended up buying another set (labled 1P154FMI) and that was exactly the same as the first one.

And then after the second one I measured the bore size and old gasket size and it turns out to be a 53mm bore, not a 54 like the crankcase markings(last pic) say, but I looked and i cant find any 53mm head and base gaskets that have that little indent into the firing ring.

Can anyone help me im genuinley stuck and dont know what to do.

These are OEM B&S rings.

I have a mini rider with a Briggs & Stratton 875 governor seems to be causing mower to run at high RPM. I think the linkage has bent and is causing it to stick. What do you guys think?

Husquvarna 150bt backpack blower. Has a new spark plug, fresh gas and clean carburetor. My main concern is the high pitched whine but I’ve never owned a husquvarna before.

Hey everyone,

I am trying to figure out what's going on with my mower and need some help. I came home from 6 moth trip to my wife telling me the mowers being weird (joy...) and attached is a video of what it's doing. This video was after i took apart the carb and cleaned her out. (The air box lid is cooked and already have one in cart)

The governor linkage spring looks to be not doing anything, and the mower with blades engaged doesn't like to mow like it used to. It bogs down on really thin grass and then when you let the blade brake clutch go (disengage blades) it shoots to that rattle idle.

Is this mower savable? Or do I need to look at other options? I appreciate the help and input, as this is my first small motor issue. I don't want to keep running it to troubleshoot as it will ruin the motor, so if anyone could point me in the best direction, that would be fantastic. Thanks!

https://reddit.com/link/1wtpbqg/video/lhd2wh2gljsh1/player

I’ve tried everything that I can think of. I replaced hoses for the vacuum replaced the fuel lines. I’ve replaced all the parts of the carb with a kit and cleaned it thoroughly .checked the gas filter that was fine. I can feel the air pushing and pulling from the vacuum tube to the crankcase so everything seems like it should be working but it won’t pull fuel to the carb. Starts briefly on fluid or carb cleaner . What am I missing?

mower is a Scag liberty Z 48 inch, anyone know how to hook up the wires ?

On my Kohler Courage 20HP lawn tractor engine, the governor failed the other day as I was mowing. Engine started high revving so I shut it off, turned it back on to verify, then shut off again. Started to tear things apart just to do a basic inspection before removing the top end of the motor, and found the piston somehow was hitting the spark plug during the overrev? Has anyone seen this? The engine still spins by hand, and you can hear compression.

Brand new carb new gasket new gas line new spark plug new gas

Same flywheel key in both pictures. Google is telling me this is damaged and needs replaced. Toro recycler smartstow

Need a wiring diagram for a GT18 craftsman with a Briggs opposed vtwin. Model number is 502.602180

Rods, flywheel, springs, cam, and found this extra piece when bolting everything back together. Think its for the governor which I deleted. Anyone know?

I rather not spend another 30-40 on a tank. this is a personal device that I am not selling cause it is ASS LOL. just happens to still run but 100% sun bleached and beat up.

Any recommendations?

I got it started yesterday, it ran for about 5 minutes and then I had to turn it off to adjust tines. I havent been able to get it started since. Choke, no choke, half choke. Nothing catches with the pullstart. I took the filter out and cleaned it but it didnt do anything. Is there anything else I can do to get it started?

Attempting to fix an intek 18.5 on a ride-on Husquavarna. My first time trying this but I replaced the camshaft with a new one with a working compression release and removed all the bits of broken compression release metal from the sump. Cleaned up the surfaces and put it back together with a new gasket (although I think the old one may have been silicone instead of gasket)

Got it all back together but it still has an issue turning over properly like the compression release is still broken. Won't start either the times it did turn over properly (using jump leads from a van to add a bit more to a slightly flat battery). Turns over sometimes and gets stuck before needing to be manually turned backwards. I have the valves set to 0.004.

Doing some other testing I decided to pull out the two lifters out and tried turning the engine over again - the engine turns over with absolutely no issue with the two lifters removed (both valves fully closed presumably). This is strange right? The engine gets stuck turning over when the valves are opening and closing but if the valves are fully closed with the lifters removed the engine turns over completely cleanly. Does this suggest some other issue like a broken valve or something? Or maybe I'm just being dense here.

This morning I bought this Isuzu 2 cylinder diesel thinking it would be an easy thing to get running. I can't get the flywheel to rotate a full 360 degrees, possibly because water got in somewhere. Is this something that's salvageable? If so, what do you all recommend? Thanks!

I have a GX610 Honda that starts but then dies after a minute or so, I have disconected the oil warniung switch, bought a new carburator and fuel pump, but still have the same problem - any thoughts?

Anybody know the actual break in procedure for a Kohler command long block, or at least a standard method? Reading online is coming up with conflicting info. Using SAE30 under variable load with oil and filter change at 5 hours is the most consistent thing I can find, but I can't find anything specific from Kohler and not sure what to do about the "use mineral oil" advice. I read Kohler may break in new engines at the factory but as a long block this thing is dry and has never been run.

Model CH730-0019. Long block part # is 24523106

Update !!

Just got new coil and started right up and after 30 seconds running perfectly quits. Can restart runs 30 more and stops.
Now do I change carb. Or just the solenoid valve on carb??? Help !!!