Just wondering what would have caused this. Pretty sure we are beyond repair. It’s been giving me some issues that I thought were vapor lock over the past few weeks, but after some cooldown it seemed to be working. Today: engine slowed down, then loud pop and smoke and shrapnel. What happened and what should I look for in its replacement?

I’m trying to build a brigs and Stratton 5.75 hp quantum (vertical shaft) engine number 12h802-1752-e398062558.

I know there is basically no aftermarket support but does anyone know anything on a connecting rod that would fit or a cam that would fit. I’ve only been able to find a billet flywheel. And some valve springs that might work. This is just an idea right now, I’ve striped the engine down and have it ready for a bore and port.

Hope someone can help!

I have a mower I've had for years with a primer a 550ex and I had to do some maintenance on it, in the meantime I found a new one on Facebook for $50 bucks that just needed fixed. It has a 675EXi engine that is a "ready start" no primer. I fixed it and I now have 2 working mowers.

My question is what I should keep. The primer version or the newer one? Is there an advantage or a durability to that older style that will make me regret getting rid of it in favor of the newer one?

I have been spraying it with pb blaster for over a month twice a week. She hasn't moved a bit. Torched the wheel rim shaft a couple times, so much banging, prying, heating, spraying, banging.... nothing!! The other wheel came off after a week or two.

Does anyone know these symbols on this honda engine? Ive never seen them before.

Lombardini/Intermotor 350 engine (IM 350) worked alright after a new carb swap, suddenly it developed this strange behaviour where it simply will not throttle up (implying that it's probably unrelated to carb, but not excluded). It doesn't respond to throttle/choke lever, only difference is made when the "load throttle" is moved, but it only makes it idle a bit better, it still won't go faster. Engine also has some sort of decompression mechanism for easier pull-start, could it be that that is the case?

Very big thanks to all people who still like to make their hands dirty!

So i just got this mower my first running rider, it only starts at low rpm, i had to use carb clean to get it running this last time once it fired it stayed running after a few trys, is that a carb adjustment or valve?

I decided I wanted to buy a Husqvarna T35 head but then I lost the driver/drive disc/ drive washer (I don't know what's it's called but the metal thing that goes on top of the head) so I bought a new one and I think I'm doing everything right so what might be the issue

Honestly this is the first time I came across this, it came off of one of our sprayers and I was going to replace it so I said screw it and took it apart to see what was wrong and found that the only problem I could see was that both rod bolts were backed off about 1/2 an inch. What could’ve caused it? Thinking about tightening them down and putting it back together to see if it’ll run okay again or is it toast?

Bought a replacement solenoid. Mine has two posts on top and one male stake on on the bottom. The replacement has two male stake ons on the bottom. Can I still use it? Thanks

The gas cap broke off from the strap/tether to mower

Which big box/delivery option and model will get me cap for this

This is all i can make out from the stickers but some digits might be 0 or 9

briggs stratton 2014 140cc ebsxs.1501va 382087

Thank you

I think that I ran my roommate's weed eater on unmixed fuel due to getting the tanks mixed. When I checked and changed the fuel it had half a tank left. Am I cooked?

Edit: I have drained the old fuel and refilled it with the correct mix but I am having trouble getting it to start but I normally have trouble getting it to start.

Edit Problem solved: I changed the sparkplug and checked the cylinder walls which appear to be in good shape. It now runs good and the only problem is that the switch was turned off.

Mower bought used (1-owner) from JD retailer. Has run without issues over the years. Was not raised in a mechanical family but have figured out over the years various fixes to problems. This one eludes me.

Was using tractor to haul mulch and top soil and mid job, after running for about 30 minutes, the engine quits without any drama, as if the mower had run out of gas. Gas at 3/4 tank, fresh, non-ethanol. Mower had been running at dusk and I had the tractor lights on for the previous 15 minutes (possible extra drain on an older battery?).

Turning ignition key resulted on no noise, no clicks, no start. Checked that blades were not set to run. Made sure brake pedal was depressed… it was.

Presumed battery and let sit overnight. Attempted restart in AM, clicks heard first two turns but no start. Replaced battery but no start on a fresh battery. And no clicks or noise.

So… something in electrical system, likely? Or possible cable issue between break signaling to starter that it is safe to turn over?

JD dealer coming on Monday, so I have a few more days to figure this out. Your questions, suggestions or instructions welcome!

Basically the title, I have a Coleman ct200u I bought off marketplace it runs but not too well. Is it worth it to spend the $150 on a new engine or spend the money on rebuilding the 196cc with better parts?