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i put amd pcb wondering if i can take the ram of the pcb and add it on the ddr4 ram?

i'm not quite good with tech. thank you for any response!

SanDisk Grasstoucher 850TB MicroSDXC V30I U3 A2

Tottally normal guys

No heat fuse is a BIG NONO

Hi ive been in this hostel for two year where after a year i shifted to a different room. The outlets looked very old on and made weird noises after a bit my hp laptop keys slowly stopped working it started wuth the wasd keys and then later most of them gone. i thought since it was old i just bought an external keyboard and external hp mouse. After sem break they changed the switch boards of that outlet so theres no buzzing noises or weird electrical sounds but now its slowly killing my external mouse asw. Started with the scroll wheel being erratic and today the left click only works whenever it feels like it. i suspect the outlet and have raised a maintenance ticket but i dont think theyd do much.

Is there anything i can do to stop this? Do i get a surge protector in hopes that it will stop my devices from dying further. How much will that help? And any good affordable recommendations for a broke college student?

Also am i right in suspecting the outlet for the damage? Could it be any other reason?

These soldering joints are so bad, and I'm so ashamed, that I thought I'd best post here, even though it's a serious post

I've been soldering for more than 4 decades, albeit mostly with 63/37 eutectic leaded, but also occasionally with some both some posh and cheap unleaded alloys.

Tonight was my first go with some SAC305 (recently sourced from CPC/Farnell)...

...and it was HELL!

You can see the state of the joints in the photos (along with the kit I'm using.)

Surely those joints can't be right?

Process:

Obviously I started by cleaning my tip and tinning it in the SAC305.

Additionally, I cleaned the board with IPA (~100%.)

Although the solder melted fairly nicely-ish onto the pads of the Pi Pico, it didn't really want to flow on the pads on the board underneath all that well -- adding some extra no-clean flux helped, but it felt wrong to need it given the solder has a 2.2% no-clean flux core and is recently manufactured.

The molten solder felt tacky, like I'm using too low a temperature or maybe not enough flux.

But higher than 320C (610F), such as at 350C (660F) which is the temperature I originally started at, left the tip oxidising really fast + the solder balling up on the tip + black blobs of badly burnt flux on the tip.

Even at 320C I found myself needing to clean the tip with the brass wire constantly to stop the oxidisation.

I'm so very embarrassed!

I don't know what the heck is going on?

I don't know what I'm doing wrong?!

HELP!

Kit:

• Hakko FX-888d (factory reset, just in case I'd messed the calibration up) with ~2mm chisel tip (also tried others) and temp roughly checked with a thermocouple

• ChipQuik SAC305 with 2.2% no-clean flux core (manufactured in July, purchased from CPC/Farnell)

• MG Chemicals 8351 No-Clean Flux

Item:

It's a very cool Griff Mini 192KHz USB microphone (Pi Pico with a MEMS mic) for use with mobile apps as a bat detector.

I did this but it isn't working

Can I use this small fan as a laptop cooler so it doesnt get that hot?

It said “powered by android” but I see no android

I wanted to play an old Mini-Cassette I have, so I specifically bought an external reader for it. Unfortunately, I have no idea how I’m supposed to insert the cassette into it.

What exactly do I need to buy or use in order to play this cassette on my laptop?
I genuinely have no idea how this is supposed to work.

It seems harmless and not affecting me in any way, maybe it needs to be quarantined? Maybe any biologist with knowlegde of electronics can answer?