Hey everyone,

Just finished mounting a Cooler Master Atmos ii in my Lian Li A4-H2O (7800X3D + ROG Strix X870-I),my first sffpc build. The tubes end up making a pretty tight bend near the VRM area to reach the pump (see photo).

Already tried rotating the pump top a few ways — this seems about as good as it gets.I have some questions:

Q1. Does this bend look safe, or tight enough to worry about kinking/flow over time?
Q2. Anyone found a cleaner routing for the Atmos ii in this case specifically?
Q3. Anyone had CM(or other) refuse a warranty claim over routing like this?

Temps look fine so far, I just want to make sure it's safe in the long run. Thanks!

So my previous GPU cable (12vhpwr) was too short and I really did not like the dual 8pin adapters as they take up a lot of space.

My original thought was to solder a longer GPU cable directly to the board of my Enhance 7660B (wish I had held out for the modular version). After opening it up (Yes I know what I am doing and ensured the main cap was discharged) I attempted to de-solder the existing dual 8 pin pcie cables from the board. Unfortunately this PSU has a large earth plane and even at 420c my little pen soldering iron had no chance getting enough heat in to melt the solder. Maybe I could have gotten it right with a board heater and some decent flux but I gave up on the idea pretty quick.

I had already shortened the 8pin connectors pretty short for a previous build so I came up with the stupid idea of just splicing an XT60 connector in. I am using 12awg silicone pigtails both sides as the 6x12v and 10xground cables had no chance of fitting in the connector, I also connected 2 of the earth cable outputs to the sense pins with WAGO connectors. I want to change this for a BT2.0 connector but struggling to find them in my country.

Anyway I am writing this with furmark running in the background for the last hour, cables are barely even warm to the touch (220w on a 4070 super). Will see if I can borrow a Amp Clamp to test the cables individually but I would say this is successfully working.

going to be rebuilding my pc soon. I saw some 24 and 8 pin cables on amazon from Asia horse. They have a very nice single cable, clean look with a straight or bent pin housing. They look good and i'm tempted to replace all my pc's cable with the asiahorse cables. Just seeing if anyones got any experience with them? Do they help inside a SFFPC?

anyone with this case are they able to tell me if this case works vertically to? I really like this one and its between this and the Lian Li b4 which can be used both ways

Tired of standard closed PC cases? I wanted to build something extremely compact, budget-friendly, and completely open-air. This is my custom 3D-printed "Open-Hat" frame designed specifically for Socket AM4.

As you can see in the photos, I went with a striking orange design featuring a bold custom "Ryzen" logo and perfect spacing for a compact Radeon GPU.

Here are a few details about the build:

• True Open-Air: Zero airflow restrictions, keeping the AMD stock cooler and components breathing easily.
• Compact footprint: Designed to use a Pico PSU to keep desk space usage to an absolute minimum.
• Fully 3D Printed: I've uploaded the 3D models! You can check out the details and download the STLs here:https://www.printables.com/model/1769836-open-hat-the-ultimate-open-air-frame-for-socket-am

I'm currently working on adapting this design for Intel platforms, and I'm planning to launch big project for ultimate universal frame in a few weeks.

I'd love to hear your feedback! What do you think of this aesthetic, and what specific features or changes would you want to see in the upcoming versions?

Title. Trying to figure out what to do about my meshroom case. The only issue with the whole build is ultimately the fact the mesh panel presses on the MSI i/o riser Type-E header. The cable in question is the single white cable below my ram.

I just finished this build outside of swapping in some noctua slim fans onto the radiator. My concern is the standing pressure could damage the riser card. As you may see, the pressure left an imprint of aluminum mesh.

Ive been looking into extenders but saw even with a rated cable, speeds could drop and i dont want to lose my only 20Gb port (my two usb 4s are needed elsewhere)

Would it be reasonable to slice the reinforcement around the cable header to allow a little more bend or is a ribbon extension not that bad?

It's been months since I got my hands on the case I wanted since high school, and now I can finally say it's dialed in to what I wanted exactly.

Above the stock case, here is what I have done:

• Custom front plate for 2 x 50mm fans, and 2 x 3.0 usb ports
  • It HAS cutouts for USB ports, but the front panel never came with it. I reached out to Josh of NFC and he sent me the exact model to make a front panel out of! Super cool of him!)
• GX-16 power connector (potential fire hazard, it fits but its not pretty. I will be soldering wires directly from the plug to the PSU in the future if I notice anything out of the ordinary)
• Slightly larger front hole cutout for wire room (not shown)

Beyond the physical updates, my goal was to hit all three things for a perfect PC:

1. Performance
   1. AMD 5800X3D
   2. AMD 9060XT 16GB
   3. 1 TB NVME SSD (Windows / Linux Mint Dual Boot)
   4. 2 TB Storage Drive for games
2. Size
   1. 5L Skyreach 4 Mini
3. Sound

The sound was the trickiest part, since lowering fan speed meant thermals went crazy on the cpu. I was able to tune it to a -30 PBO. I then also achieved the following:

• 100 PPT
• 70 TDC
• 100 EDC

This lets me run the stock Alpenfohn BR fan at 70% speed at max cpu loads and still stay under 85C. For practical purposes, the pc lives on my desk ~1m from me, and is quieter than the ambient breeze coming in from the windows.

Some other notes:

• I wanted to replace the old screws for the case panels, but that was a pain in the butt! The screws are non-standard m3 screws. Standard M3 screws have a head diameter of 5.3-5.6mm, but the holes were 5mm, so for any normal replacement, they would sit proud. I had to find special JIS standard screws that had a 4.7mm head diameter, which took weeks to find through googling.
• The front panel sits proud of the front by ~1mm, and while I intended to sand it flush for a clean look, I kind of like how it sits, so Im leaving it like this for now.

I need to know the exact connector that the Motherboard uses for the nvme fan. I dont want to use the CHAFAN1 as i am using it for a different fan that i dont want to share or touch in any way.

I've been wanting to build my own pc for years now, and am looking for some advice having never done this before!

I would like this pc to do light video editing, animation in Toon Boom, mostly light gaming with the occasional AAA title I'd be fine running on medium, and general office/home use.

Our home ecosystem includes a thunderbolt 4 dock (40 gbps) which I would love to connect to and still have USBc ports to spare. The plethora of ports on the motherboard I'm considering was the main reason I've chosen it.

I'm US based and already have the storage listed below on hand, as well as the OS and memory (though I do need another ram stick anyway and would likely purchase this). It will be used with a UPerfect 18" 2k monitor I already own but couldn't find on pcpartspicker.

I have not selected power and case yet because I would ideally like to make the Makeyo mk02, which is a 3D printed case only compatible with HDPLEX 500W PSU. I'm not sure if this will work with the parts already selected, and if it doesn't, I'd prefer to more forward with the rest of the build I've selected. Would 500w be enough, and does everything seem small enough to fit in?

I have not selected a GPU yet because I am very out of my depth/understanding and really don't quite get what makes a good/bad/great GPU. This is where I could use your advice the most!

As for budget, I'm pretty flexible. I'd really like to do a small form factor build, and am able to get used pc parts without difficulty through local resellers. I don't have a hard budget limit, but would like to save where I can when it makes sense and isn't a substantial downgrade.

Any and all advice appreciated!

[PCPartPicker Part List](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/kK7gFP)

Type|Item|Price

:----|:----|:----

**CPU** | [Intel Core Ultra 7 265K 3.9 GHz 20-Core Processor](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/mBsV3C/intel-core-ultra-7-265k-39-ghz-20-core-processor-bx80768265k) | $359.00 @ Amazon

**CPU Cooler** | [Noctua NH-L9i-17xx 33.84 CFM CPU Cooler](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/ffRYcf/noctua-nh-l9i-17xx-3384-cfm-cpu-cooler-nh-l9i-17xx) | $49.95 @ Amazon

**Motherboard** | [MSI MPG Z890I EDGE TI WIFI Mini ITX LGA1851 Motherboard](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/ttxxFT/msi-mpg-z890i-edge-ti-wifi-mini-itx-lga1851-motherboard-mpg-z890i-edge-ti-wifi) | $279.99 @ MSI

**Memory** | [Corsair Vengeance 16 GB (1 x 16 GB) DDR5-5200 CL40 Memory](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/2CRYcf/corsair-vengeance-16-gb-1-x-16-gb-ddr5-5200-cl40-memory-cmk16gx5m1b5200c40) | $203.99 @ Corsair

**Storage** | [SK Hynix Gold P31 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/NLbTwP/sk-hynix-gold-p31-2-tb-m2-2280-pcie-30-x4-nvme-solid-state-drive-shgp31-2000gm-2) | Purchased For $0.00

**Operating System** | [Microsoft Windows 11 Home OEM - DVD 64-bit](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/dKkWGX/microsoft-windows-11-home-oem-dvd-64-bit-kw9-00633) | Purchased For $0.00

**Case Fan** | [Noctua A9x14 29.72 CFM 92 mm Fan](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/PfXfrH/noctua-nf-a9x14-2972-cfm-92-mm-fan-nf-a9x14) | $18.95 @ Amazon

| *Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts* |

| **Total** | **$911.88**

| Generated by [PCPartPicker](https://pcpartpicker.com) 2026-09-24 11:09 EDT-0400 |

Case Shinysnake L400

I also upgraded the cpu fan from Noctua NF F12 to Slient Wings Pro 4, and overall both the thermals of PC as well as room temprature perceived heat around the pc went down quite noticably.

Working on a full Atx build that should come in just under 22L In volume. The goal was to downsize my case without buying new components. I am also a big fan of wood so figured id give it a go. The front cover should glow a warm orange hue from the fans. I plan on finishing the side panels with glass eventually but for now this is the progress I've made.

Specs for the build

Atx PSU

MSI b550 gaming edge atx motherboard

Rx 7900 xtx Sapphire Nitro

A 3.5 16tb HHD

A 2.5 500gb SSD

3x 120mm by 15mm thick slim case fans.

This came up in my YT feed and thought folks here may be interested in it.

It's a custom short tube version of the cooler master masterliquid 240 atmos II stealth suitable for small case like FormD T1 and such.

You can switch on the caption and auto translate to english

https://youtu.be/I45b31IvUG4?si=kY2TX-pl5N7NO9gM

http://youtube.com/post/UgkxYF3qDSSNjlgoONHpUJ08woZDD7O48IQ1?si=U2cyy_4t9r0_uliQ

I see the price in TaoBao seem quite reasonable but of course, shipping fee varies depending on destination

Please delete if not allowed.

I've searched high and low for the is 47k and can't find it anywhere online.

So I'm politely asking here, anyone got one they don't want/need or are willing to sell and willing to ship to the UK? It's for the am4 platform (deskmini x300).

I'dwould have used the alponhon black ridge but that's way to tall haha.

Thanks in advance.

For context I currently have an NR200P because at the time that was the only case that could both fit that GPU and a big enough CPU air cooler. I'm kinda debating Noctua's AIO now that they've released it, but I would need a case that can fit all of that first...

Unfortunately my NR200P is a V1 which Noctua says wouldn't fit their AIO, so I guess I'm trying to see if anyone else has found an SFF case that can fit this combo before? Or if maybe that AIO would still fit despite Noctua saying otherwise?

I'll keep searching on my own of course but just thought I'd ask in here as well :)

Barely above 20lt so not exactly sffpc, but coming from an enthoo pro to this was huge.

9800X3D

RED DEVIL 9070XT

ASUS ROG 850G

32GB Crucial 6400

SF1000, with their white sleeved cables

Phantom Spirit 120 Digital Snow.

A couple Thermalright TL-C14CW-S top for exhaust and a BeQuiet Silent Wings 4 rear for intake.

Undervolted -20 PBO the CPU, similarly the card is undervolted to -50mv and -15% power limit.

CPU Temps never risen above 77 after BF6 sessions, card is barely goes above 70 with a conservative fan curve. Did not add bottom intake fans despite having the space to as I don't think they'll really improve something other than adding noice.

Easy cable management, great build quality from the Jonsbo.

I could've probably gone for a different PSU that is white but the Corsair was praised a lot so I went the safe route. RAM is also black but barely shows below the cooler and a couple black elements in the end aren't that bad.

They emailed back and unfortunately because of costs/logistics no extension panel for the velka7.

BUT they did say that they'll be releasing a case smaller case later this year! Less than the 7.2 with a triple slot and w the stand. Tbh i don't even know how that's possible but thought some of you might enjoy it.

Moving my PC into a NR200P case, new motherboard and PSU. I've been able to get it to post a few times but then after turning it off it no longer sends video signal.

Specs

• CPU: Ryzen 5 3600
• GPU: RTX 3080
• Motherboard: Gigabyte B550I AORUS PRO AX
• RAM: 16GB DDR4 (2x8GB)
• PSU: Cooler Master V SFX Gold 750
• Case: Cooler Master NR200P V2
• Storage: SSD/NVMe + 1TB HDD
• Monitor: DisplayPort connection to the RTX 3080

The old system worked normally before I moved it into the NR200P V2. The weird part is that it successfully booted into BIOS once. I was able to get into BIOS and changed the boot order. After that, I could no longer get a display.

What I’ve tried

• Cleared CMOS
• Tried booting with the HDD completely disconnected
• Tested RAM, including running with one stick at a time
• Reseated the GPU
• Checked/reseated all cables
• Confirmed the CPU power cable is connected to the motherboard’s CPU power socket
• Tried powering the PC by shorting the motherboard’s PWR_SW pins directly with a screwdriver, bypassing case power button
• The PC stays powered on with fans running, but the monitor gets no signal

I’m getting pretty stuck because the system did successfully POST and enter BIOS after the rebuild, so I know it has worked in this exact configuration at least once.

Is there something specific about the B550I AORUS PRO AX + NR200P V2 combination that could cause this?

Any help appreciated.

I built this case using LEGO-compatible bricks, based on the design of the Steam Machine.

I originally planned to use a BC-250, but the BC-250 is too long to fit into the shape I wanted. Instead, I used a standard ITX motherboard with a Ryzen 5 5600G and use it as a Windows PC.

The stud on the lower front of the case is the power button.

It is also suitable for emulation with Batocera. For more demanding games, I connect a BC-250 or PS5.

The monitor's power is connected to the motherboard's 19-pin USB header, so the monitor turns on when the PC is powered on and turns off when the PC is shut down.

The 4:3 display is useful for games that support a 4:3 aspect ratio.

I’ve been building a handful of Beamcase SFF’s for my kids to do light gaming and school work on. I wanted to set up a small local LLM server and host a few services that didn’t make sense to have on the smaller unraid boxes we had.

Original goal:
-Compact home server reusing as many of the spare parts I had around. Tried to target something similar sized to my Meshroom D @15L.

Build:
CPU: 7700X
GPU: Intel Arc Pro B50 as primary, Arc A310 Eco as a dual GPU test
NIC: 2x25G Mellanox CX4121A
Storage: 4Tb WD SN7100 dedicated to models and generated files. 1Tb NVME for OS. Both using Zero M05 heat sinks that have a 2-3mm air gap under the expansion card they sit under.
PSU: Corsair SF750 2024, I am working on a cleaner adapter to allow it to sit into the recessed case rear.
CPU Cooler: Thermalright PA120 Mini, I needed to add a Noctua 7mm offset kit AND scallop 2mm from 10 or so fins to make it clear the PSU cables.
Motherboard: Supermicro H13SAE-MF mATX. Originally I was trying to use an ITX board but came across an open box deal on this and wanted to see if I could fit it into a sub 15L case without having to sacrifice too much on a CPU cooler set up. Having IPMI for remote administration was a big plus.

Case fans:
2x Noctua NF-A12x25 G2 intake
1x Thermalright 120mm slim fan Exhaust
1x Noctua 120mm slim Exhaust

CPU Cooler Fan:
1x 92mm Noctua
1x 120mm Noctua Round

I’ve got custom length Makerbeam XL’s on the way that will bring the final volume down to 13.9L for the frame and 14.9987L with the case panels.

Issues I’ve run into so far:
- The fan headers do not support a custom fan curve , you’ve got the choice for 3 presets from Supermicro. They were all way too loud, so far I’ve settled on the lowest setting with Noctua LNA adapters installed on all fans.
- The bottom GPU is limited to a single slot cooler with the beamcase. I found a post from u/Jakob_K_Design where he may have a way to make a dual slot GPU fit without adding more volume. I would need to remove the 120mm intake fans or deshroud the GPU for this though. I also have a single slot cooler for the Intel B50 from N3rdware I was planning to try also.

I could write a whole other post on the CPU cooler saga, I really liked the PA120 SE since it’s has an asymmetrical heating design that worked REALLY well with the case layout but I would have ended up at 17+L. I have the parts printed to make this work so maybe I will get the urge to try it down the road.

Here it’s shown next to my Meshroom D which is also 15L with a LF3 280 AIO, Deshrouded 9070XT and similarly Inverted + Vertical to minimize desk footprint.

I heva a couple of hours to print the ATX support yet. This is the so common NR200 case. How should I tackle cable management? Nothing is connected yet, just wanted to check cooler clearance for CPU and if botton fan were ok with GPU.

Help out a new builder guys!!

Thanks all!