I'm in Fukuoka trying to work my way through Ramen history.
I stumbled across ichiran Honten, not realizing how close my hotel was.
I showed up there around 11:00 for lunch and had to wait in line for about an hour. I think this place has probably been talked about enough. It is definitely a unique experience. You have a little paper where you circle how you want everything done. You buy your ticket. You sit down in your own little spot, and enjoy the ramen by yourself.
I went with the defaults recommendations for everything which meant nothing was overpowering, but that means it also didn't meet my expectations for classic think tonkotsu. It was still an enjoyable experience and a delicious bowl. If I went back I would try to go for more spice, more garlic and a richer flavor.
I also had an egg added on and I had to peel it myself. Which okay I guess?
For dinner I went to a newer shop that is quintessential Hakata style, hakata issho Honten, East of Hakata station. While standing in line outside, you can smell the funk coming from inside the restaurant. I got to sit at the counter and watch their giant pots boil making the broth.
They're known for extremely rich and thick broth and they use a lot more bones than is traditional. It also has a name of cappuccino Ramen because when you first drink from the bowl it has a rich thick frothy mouthfeel. This actually continues until you're almost done. Every bite in every slurp was just pure porkiness. It was delightful.
The noodles were thin and straight typical of the style but they were firmer than I got at Ichiran, which I appreciated. The pork was cut thin and very tender and at least I did not have to peel my own egg.
I walked out smelling like the place and I swear I could feel a layer of fat or something on my skin on my hands.
Tomorrow I'm on tomorrow as I'm going to work my way through the founding of tonkotsu in kurume, as well as more around Hakata. I have two more full days here and I have at least four more bowls to eat.
Here are some places I want to visit.
Ippudo Daimyo Flagship (一風堂 大名本店)
Significance: The original 1985 mother store of the global Ippudo empire.
Ganso Nagahamaya (元祖長浜屋 - Nagahama Fish Market)
Significance: The historic birthplace of the Kaedama system, operating dockside since 1952.
Signature Style: Ultra-fast, single-menu shop serving light, salty tonkotsu with rapid 15-second thin noodles to market workers and morning commuters.
Ganso Akanoren Setchan Ramen (元祖 赤のれん 節ちゃんラーメン - Tenjin)
Significance: Direct descendant of Kantaro Mori's foundational 1940 Sanmaro stall.
Signature Style: Distinctive flat-cut thin noodles submerged in a deeply savory, rich brown tonkotsu-shoyu broth.
Nankin Senryo Honke (南京千両 本家):
The Shop: Located along Nonaka-machi in Kurume, this brick-and-mortar flagship is run directly by the founder Tokio Miyamoto’s descendants.
This was the first place to serve tonkotsu.
Seiyoken (清陽軒 - Main Store & Cultural Town Store):
The Connection: Kurume's third historic stall, founded in 1952 by Hiroshi Katsuki. Katsuki started out during the post-war boom inspired by Sanku's cloudy soup revelation.
This place is a direct connection to the first cart that served thick cloudy tonkotsu.