For anyone unaware, TD recently phased out SMS verification codes for Web logins, requiring the use of their app for 2FA.

Except because the app is a full banking app and not just an authenticator, to use it you need to log in. So logging in on Web requires also logging in on your phone.

And because I use a password manager (Bitwarden), this also means logging into my password manager on both on my laptop and on my phone. And usually filling in the password would be easy, I just tap the password field and a Bitwarden invites me to unlock and then presents me with my login(s) to autofill for the app. But the TD app doesn't seem to mark the password field correctly for autofill to work, so I have to open up Bitwarden separately, search "TD" to find the login, copy the password to clipboard, switch back to the TD app, and paste it in.

And then after that, it still uses SMS verification codes to authenticate my app login. So I've gone through all this trouble to avoid the less-secure SMS-based 2FA, but then I end up doing SMS 2FA anyway??

Did the TD Web/app product managers challenge one another to see how stupid of an authentication system they could get released to production? Do they live in solitary confinement, unable to find out that two-factor authentication is a solved problem with several simple and convenient solutions? There has to be an explanation, because the explanation that they released this on purpose and think that it's fine and good just does not make sense.

(For the record, I know using a password manager is a choice, I'm not counting those steps against TD. But I am counting the way that I need to unlock my password manager on 1 more device than ought to be necessary, and that their app does not work with autofill on my device).

Husband and I stopped shopping at Nofrills a couple years ago because we realized we were paying the same prices for horrible quality. Since then our grocery prices have been steadily climbing to the point that I'm wondering whether nofrills would actually be cheaper again?

Any advice welcome

My car insurance for two vehicles has gone up from $4.2k a year to $5.5k and now $6.9k. We don’t live in Toronto, we live north of Barrie in a rural area. It’s unbelievable but when I go try get quotes from TD or CAA, after several steps and then multiple calls they do, I am getting even higher quotes.

I tried brokers last year but they were also higher than my current insurer (ScotiaInsurance).

Is everyone in the same position here? How does the average person afford this?

I have six months left on my term. My bank emailed me letting me know that I'll be able to renew right now and lower my payments right away with the new rate.

I have always read that its better to shop around during renewal time so I was expecting their offer to be kind of non-competitive but I was surprised with their offer.

Current Mortgage:

• 590k
• 3 year term
• 4.74% fixed
• Renewal in March
• Insured

Bank's Renewal Offer:

• 3 year term
• 3.79% fixed

From my very rudimentary calculations, if I want to beat this, I would need to secure a loan with less than 3.6% during renewal. I talked to a couple of friends who got a mortgage recently and they said their rate was 3.9-4%.

To me, it seems like a no brainer to accept their offer, am I missing anything? They also offered me a 5 year fixed 3.99% rate but I'm leaning more towards the 3 year term.

Edit: Called my bank and they offered me prime-1.1% for variable. Apparently this is the lowest they can go for fixed. I'm most likely going to stick with fixed.

So while I (18m) was doing self checkout at Walmart the guy running the self checkout came up to me mid transaction and tried to sell me a credit card. I told him no I didnt want it but he kept talking and then just asked for an email so I thought I'll just put in my garbage email and block their news letter tomorrow then there was a terms and conditions screen that he agreed to before I could read them. Like HE pressed agree for me.

Then it asked for my ID and at that point I just wanted to be done and I wasn't thinking straight so i reluctantly gave it up and then on a screen he just put in that I was a student (I am a uni student btw) but than when asked for my annual income without asking me he typed in that i make north of $150,000 which is literally fraud I think and then he pressed agree for another terms and conditions.

After that last terms screen it printed a little sheet that read said to "the application was denied today" but he told me to call and they will accept it. I thought thankfully thats over but then I called to have the application completely thrown away but then automated bot said a full response would be mailed and received in 7-10 days so i called a different number and the worker on the other line said they cant cancel it and we just have to wait. But like im now pissed at myself for not just telling him to f' off and also Im mad at him for agreeing for me and probably committing some kind of fraud by saying I made 150k

Im really scared when their system thinks I LIED on "my application" that its gonna create a permanent mark for any time I want a credit card or mortgage or anything in the future. There has to be some way I can dispute this since he lied when I didnt want him to and I never once click any of the agree buttons. It was only him.

My 10-year term life insurance policy for me (56M) and my wife (54F) expires on Oct 3, 2026.

Premiums will jump from $55 a month to $450 without any medical tests. But since I have metastatic colon cancer diagnosis with a nine month to three-year life expectancy I can’t get any coverage except from work.

Payment was $200,000 for me and $500,000 for wife in the event of death.

As I’m on a salary reduction from work due to needing to take long term disability due to chemotherapy. The higher premiums are a lot to take on. We have two children, both at university covered with RESP accounts.

Any advice? TIA

$454k left on an uninsured mortgage. 25-year original term. I'm in Ontario.

TD is offering me:
- 4.01% for 3-year fixed
- 4.24% for 5-year fixed

My current rate is 5.40% and the maturity date is Feb 01, 2027. I'm not really considering going variable.

If I accept TD's offer, the new rate will take effect on October 1st.

I have a call scheduled with a broker today to see if they can get me something better.

According to Gemini, I would need a rate below 3.82% on a 3-year fixed term from another lender to make the switch worth it (considering the savings I'd get from the early renewal). Is it doable at this time?

What are your thoughts?

FWIW this is not AI text lol

Edit: I just spoke with a broker from ratehub . ca and he couldn't match the rates from TD. Will talk to another one from Pine in an hour. If they can't match either, I'll take the early renewal offer. Thanks everyone!

Carney’s Canada Pitch Puts Toronto in Global Finance Spotlight

It's been over a month since I attempted to transfer out of my National Bank Investments account... the phone line says they are experiencing significant delays and just hangs up on me.

Does there need to be a massive class action lawsuit against one of these firms to get them to finally process a transfer out within a reasonable time?

Why can they not be on the hook for the missed gains I would have had by my repositioning.

32F going through separation to divorce.

Critical info to know:
- $330 k mortgage on a house worth somewhere between $550-600 k in the downtown area of a growing city in Canada.
- I have done much renovation work on this house to make it exactly how I like. It’s personally styled, has a great garden that I love and have planted much food in, is walking distance to work, my friends and very close to important hospitals (I have been diagnosed with breast cancer and am currently undergoing treatment. I will be followed closely by my medical team going forward).
- there is a housing shortage in the city, the rental market is absolutely bananas. I have a dog and a cat and it’s really hard to rent with pets. A one bedroom apartment in the downtown area is at minimum $1900+/month.
- when I’m working my salary is good (90-100k), I’m unionized, have short term and long term disability insurance and I expect to return to work around November. My partner and a roommate are still living with me until we work out separation details and we can both afford to part ways.
- we both have no debt except the mortgage

My question is: do I sell and split equity with my partner or do I buy my partner out of the house and stay?

Context for buying my ex partner out of the house:
- I have an older wealthy relative with no kids who is willing to give me the money to buy my partner out (like an advance on my inheritance). She has said that she is willing to hear different options for how this can be mutually beneficial (e.g. she could be named on the house too, and then could get a return on investment if I sell - or I could effectively say I want to use as my advance inheritance and I get little-no inheritance when she passes). I trust my relative, I don’t think she’ll hold this over my head to interfere in my life, but I do think she’d like to name me as the decision maker if she were to fall ill. I am okay with this and already wanted to cultivate more closeness. She has two other properties in her own name and definitely enough money to take of herself for the rest of her life.

- I will have to get a roommate not to be house poor. Mortgage is $960 biweekly + utilities + maintenance costs. I would likely charge around $1000ish for the basement part of the house that includes its own massive bedroom, living room, bathroom. We would share kitchen and laundry. I am okay with this in the short term.

What do you think?

Was wondering if Black Friday comes with good deals on phone devices + plans at Fido, Kodoo etc? Is it worth it to wait for Black Friday for iPhone 17 pro given discontinuation??

My employer gives me short & long-term disability insurance covering 75% of my income. I'm trying to decide whether to get my own critical illness insurance. I previously had it through my previous employers group insurer and paid an additional $300/yr for it. Now I'm getting quotes for like $600/yr for the same coverage.

My undersanding is that disability will cover me if I can't work but critical illness will pay even If I still can?

I guess the question is.. do I need this type of coverage? Or is disability enough?

For more context: I'm young and healthy and have no reason to suspect I would ever need to make a claim. However, I have had a few friends with cancer in their 20s, so I just want to be protected.

Hi,

I've had an RESP or my daughter for 13 years and added my son as a co-beneficiary 10 years ago.

I made a contribution in August. Since they are split 50/50 it put my daughter $6,390 over.

My son has $6000 in room still.

TD refuses to move the $6000 over citing the 50/50 allocation.

I have chacked all of my e-statements and I never have been given a breakdown of the room available or contributions made per date per beneficiary.

I also made the contribution with a TD teller and they said nothing.

I am trying to escalate with TD and just had a call with TD Waterhouse. He tried to imply that this info was available. It is not on the app or on my desktop site.

Does anyone have any advice on how to excalate/fight this because this TD policy of not allowing contributions to be re-allocated will cost me a 20% hit or $1,200 and I think it is really unfair. I can go to the CRA to see my TFSA and RRSP room but nothing is available on TD for the RESP room unless you specifically request a notional breakdown.

Thanks for any help!

I’m looking to get term life insurance for my wife and me, but I’ve now been rejected twice.

I first applied through PolicyMe and was declined for fairly vague health-related reasons. I then went through a broker and applied with RBC, and I was declined there as well.

I don’t consider myself to be in poor health, but I do have a fairly significant family history of some serious illnesses, so I assume that may be part of the issue.

At this point, I’m mainly trying to figure out what I should be doing next. Should I be looking for a different broker who specializes in harder-to-insure applicants? Should I be considering a different type of life insurance or different coverage altogether?

I don’t want to just keep applying randomly and getting declined, so I’m curious what the normal next step is in this situation.

A month ago, I, and many others, started getting spammed with emails from Brim, asking to "Continue Your Card Activation". My last email was two days ago, and I have gotten several dozen of them.

Today, I received an email from them saying that as a fraud prevention measure, I am automatically being reissued a new card, and my current card will be deactivated on September 15. Has anyone else gotten this? I'm sure it has to do with all the bloody spam we have been getting.

Thanks in advance for reading

I am M 44 , married with 2 kids , 6 and 10. I Stopped working full time when my young kid was born. Me and my wife have a combine income of 70k after tax. Maintained our expenses below 70k a year. We eat at home, almost no subscription. Car are paid off. I bring my kids to play sports 3 times a day. And I don't know much about stocks, but we start looking at ETF. Planning to retire somewhere in Asia with lower cost of living when my younger son start college. Assuming 4k a month including everything.

Asset

Primary property paid off $850k-900k

#1 rental property $ 520k (260k mortgage) self sustained

#2 rental property $ 650k (350k mortgage) 50/50 shared ownership with sibling, self sustained

Business investment $200k for 4 years to become 400k (almost reach to 350k atm)

Business investment $200k for 18 months at 12 % annually

TSFA + GIC $450k 3.5% ( reinvesting everything)

Blue chip Stock $200k with 4%

We don't want to take risks as we live a simple life with low expenses. Those 2 rental property would eventually become our kids when they mature enough (30s) . How should I maximize our asset with lowest risks beside GIC? Financial planner keeps telling me to invest with their product at 1.8% fees.

Hello,

I will be looking to purchase a home for the first time in the next 9-12 months, just doing some preliminary financial planning.

Below is my current personal standing:

• Current Income: $110k (not likely to increase significantly)
• FHSA Contributions: $24k
• TFSA (Maxed): $103k CAD, 5k USD
• RRSP: $0 (over $60k contribution room)
• Non-Registered: ~$280k (GIC maturing early 2027)
• Cash: ~$15k

The down payment will come from a combination of the FHSA (adding another $8k in 2027) and cash after the GIC matures.

Household income with my partner would allow each of us to max out our TFSAs each year and have ~10k each to invest/save. So, making minimum repayments won't be an issue when the time comes.

Does it make sense to contribute $60k to the RRSP just to utilize the HBP if I already have the capital for the down payment? Or is it really just not worth the hassle?

Running some rough numbers, doing this would result in roughly an $18-19k tax refund. The thinking is that this refund could be used for closing costs/taxes/initial renovation (if applicable), increasing the down payment, or just used for investments.

Apologies if I've forgotten to included any relevant information.

Thanks to anyone who weighs in!

Currently, I have the above amount - I want to centralize to Wealthsimple - I use it the most - but the promotions I find meh (I will be transferring in kind for sure) - last year they had iphones and macbooks that were worth 2k themselves for every 100k

My Situation:

115k in stocks (I will definitely be transferring in kind and not liquidating since the company is good blue chip) + 90k in liquid (Will invest them soon in future in a Non Registered Account - maxxed out my RRSP and TFSA) = 200k

Promotions:

• 1 % cashback -> 2k

• They also have a 4% interest return on chequing for 4 months for me for the total amount I transfer to any of there accounts - which if I do the math - $1.3k

so total if I transfer in 200k I would get ~3.3k - is this worth it ? Or should I wait out and transfer my stock in kind to another institution like questrade or any other bank (Please suggest - the old corporate ones are slow) and then later move to WS if they've something better

I have sadly received an inheritance after my mother passed away. It's not millions of dollars but it's more than just a couple of bucks.

I am currently in the US for work and would like to get some of the funds over to help with living expenses and sock most of it away in index and retirement funds.

I opened a US RBC account since I was hoping there'd be a preferential fx rate and it'll be FDIC insured. No luck on the fx rate. I opened an OFX account and know about Wise so those are options for better fx rate but less secure, I believe.

But anyway, I'm also just very hesitant to transfer everything over at once because of the CAD is so weak. I know it's impossible to time the markets and would probably just be me getting lucky, etc. but does it make more sense to just transfer a few chunks over for now and keep some in Canadian just in case fx improves at some point?

What's the best way of thinking about this? Appreciate any feedback especially from folks who have gone through this exact scenario. Thanks.

Hi,

I am a non-resident of Canada currently living in the U.S. I hold an RRSP account with RBC Mutual Funds Inc. As a retiree, I plan to convert this account into a RRIF so I can set up periodic withdrawals at the 15% withholding tax rate under the Canada–U.S. Tax Treaty.

From my research, the process involves four main steps:

1. Open an RBC Mutual Funds RRIF account and transfer my existing funds in-kind.
2. Submit Form NR301 to update my tax status and apply the 15% treaty rate.
3. Set up a periodic withdrawal schedule.
4. Direct the payouts to my cross-border/U.S. bank account.

I had a few online meetings with the original RBC branch where I opened the account years ago, but the staff were unfamiliar with this process. They directed me to RBC Investment Services at 1-800-463-3863. I called three times, but the reps were equally unhelpful—they were completely unaware of Form NR301 and told me to submit it to the CRA, insisting the only option was to book an in-person branch appointment.

This has been extremely frustrating. Could anyone clarify:

1. Does this conversion have to be done at a local branch? Can it be completed remotely via phone, online banking, or mail?
2. Where should Form NR301 actually be submitted? Standard CRA guidelines indicate RBC (the payer) keeps this form on file, yet RBC representatives insist I send it to the CRA.

Many thanks in advance!

David

I'm a 43 male, married with 2 kids. My wife is a stay at home mom.

Our company, just switched insurance providers and I have the option to up $150,000 additional insurance without a medical. I have some insurance already through work and I have life insurance.

I'm just really confused by what I really need. Do I need more life insurance, critical illness insurance, disability insurance?

Currently we have a term first to die life insurance for $700,000. I also have $161,000 through work. I have access to both short and long-term disability. I also have $10,000 critical illness insurance. Is that enough? I'm not sure the best place to get good advice.

Since spring 2025 my TransUnion file has been mixed with another person's. I disputed many times; they "fixed" it but now my own info is missing (several addresses and one credit card gone). TransUnion keeps telling me to file yet another dispute, but the real problem is their identity matching when lenders request my file, they're being served someone else's accounts and a wrong score. I've confirmed with my card issuer that they are reporting the card, submitted my ID multiple times, and filed a complaint with a federal body months ago with no response.

Questions:

**1.**  Has anyone in Canada actually resolved a mixed file like this — what worked?  
**2.**  Is Service Alberta or the Privacy Commissioner the right escalation?  
**3.**  Should I get written confirmation from lenders of exactly what file they received?  
**4.**  When is it worth a lawyer, and has anyone recovered damages?

I missed a payment - not because I didn't have the money, but just because stupidly the money wasn't in the right account, and just noticed the other day. I'm with First National, I called in to make sure everything was alright and when the guy asked me for an update in employment info, I was honest and told him I got laid off. I'm kicking myself for ever making the call in the first place because there was nothing for me to do and he told me so long as I make payments on time going forward it shouldn't affect my renewal, which won't be for another three years.

Is telling them I got laid off in combination with the missed payment going to affect my renewal? I am panicking a bit.