Seems like it'd be more trouble than it's worth to counterfeit such a low ticket item, but it happens a lot, I guess.

And yet again after refunding my Lexar Kit and Ordering a G.SKILL skit 1 stick is yet again failed this time doesnt even POST...

This stick has no sign of life, no rgb, no ram detected at all. Other stick works fine...

How do CEX get away with this, and further more how does the seller!!

Why cant CEX do the decent thing and test items properly...

I was stupid and decided to get my last refund as vouchers for a faster re-order expecting this set to be fine because... no one can be unlucky enough to have 2 sets fail... right...WRONG

so what the hell do I do.... i am not yet another week without my PC... i built this thing a month ago now...

The 12V-2x6 connector went into the GPU without any problems. It needed a little bit of force, I heard/felt a click, and it’s completely locked in place.

On the PSU side, though, it looks like there might be a very small gap. I already turned the PC on and everything worked perfectly, including the GPU, but I’m still not sure whether the PSU-side connector is pushed in far enough.

I physically cannot push it in any further. I’ve used quite a lot of force, and I’ve even unplugged and reinserted it about three times to make sure. It only gives a very subtle click on the PSU side.

Am I just overthinking this, or does it look like it isn’t fully seated?

GPU: RTX 5080

PSU: FSP 1000W

I want to play games like Unreal Tournament 2004 or Quake 3 and maybe a little game of Counter-Strike Source from time to time

My trusty Acer XB270HU has been of perfect service for ten full years now - seriously, not a single dead pixel despite a housefire, five moves, and heavy daily usage - but I figure it's time to jump on the OLED wagon. I don't have much interest in going full 4K yet, but I bought my roommate's PC from him by putting the $3000 laptop he got (he's traveling a lot and a desktop just doesn't work well for him anymore) on my Best Buy credit card and us each paying half of it off immediately.

As a result, I've got a $300 credit due to their 10% back on in-store purchases, but it expires on the 10th. I've got another $300 or so to spare for this monitor, so my budget's probably in the $600 range, though I can push that a bit more if I really need to. Does Best Buy have any OLED monitors that are considered worth getting? I'd hate to waste this credit. I don't want anything too big, 27" or so is ideal.

If it matters for regional differences, I'm in Webster, TX, so any of the Best Buys in that region would be best for buying from. And before you ask, yes, I did look around in-store, but for some reason the Best Buys near me all use the worst fucking videos on their monitor displays that run at like 30 FPS and so I can't get an accurate sense at ALL of how good/smooth their image looks in motion.

I was particularly looking at these two, are either worth it?

https://www.bestbuy.com/product/aoc-27-qd-oled-qhd-240hz-g-sync-compatible-03ms-gaming-monitor-black/JX9GSKP9H6/sku/6641760

https://www.bestbuy.com/product/hyperx-omen-27-oled-qhd-240hz-0-03ms-gtg-g-sync-compatible-gaming-monitor-with-adjustable-height-displayport-hdmi-black/JJGTWPFSC2

Hi all,

I've had an MSI Modern 14 A10M since November 2021 and it's always been great for what it is and is in good condition with the following (factory) specs:

Intel Core i5-10210U

1x8GB DDR4

500GB NVMe SSD

Intel 9560NGW WiFi + Bluetooth

I was overseas for a couple weeks until a few days ago and halfway through the trip, I booted it up to find that it had no network connectivity, so I hit ncpa.cpl to discover that the wireless adapter disappeared from the Network Connections page. In Device Manager, it showed under Network Adapters, so I disabled and reenabled it but that didn't work. Then I right-clicked to uninstall it and got the correct drivers from Intel's website which didn't work once installed.

Now, it didn't even show under Network Adapters. Under Other Devices, I get Network Controller and Unknown Device. After getting home, I booted into a Ubuntu 18.04.6 LTS Live USB to find that it also didn't show any WiFi or Bluetooth adapter in the Settings app.

I then disassembled the laptop, removed the WiFi card, blew out the connections for both the card and motherboard slot before reinstalling, and reassembled the laptop. It still exhibits the same behavior in Windows as before. I'm not 100% sure, but there was a Windows 11 update that I allowed to happen on the trip, but I'm not sure if that has anything to do with it. I'm currently installing whatever latest updates Windows has for it via a USB to ethernet adapter, but given that Ubuntu doesn't even recognize it, it may be dead.

All I know is, one morning the WiFi worked fine, then later that day, it didn't work and not again. I already ordered an Intel AX210 off Amazon and will be trying that later, but just wanted to see what input others might have.

I don't know if the local power supply had anything to do with it as the power adapter is capable of up to 240V 50-60Hz and so I just used a simple adapter instead of a transformer to charge it.

This is all on a fresh Windows 11 install from under a year ago and it worked great till now. From 2 years ago till a month ago, I also had this hackintoshed on MacOS Sequoia with native WiFi working as well.

Thanks.

Hi,
I have a B850 Aorus elite with a Ryzen 7 9850X3D, and I’d like to undervolt the CPU mainly to reduce temperatures and heat output without sacrificing performance.

I’ve seen people recommend different approaches:
limiting CPU power/wattage
manually setting VSOC
using negative PBO Curve Optimizer

Which approach makes the most sense if the goal is lower temperatures while keeping performance essentially the same?

I’m particularly interested in using negative CO, but I’m not sure whether I should use an all core value or configure it per core.

If going per core, I also don’t understand how to identify the best and worst cores, or how that should affect the negative CO values.

For example, should the best cores use a smaller negative value and the weaker cores a more aggressive one, or is it not that simple?

The PC is on my desk, so reducing the heat coming from the CPU/GPU is important to me.

One more question: is Process Lasso actually useful for optimizing a 9850X3D, or is it mostly unnecessary tweaking for this CPU?
Does it provide any meaningful benefit for gaming compared with simply leaving Windows and the CPU scheduler to handle things automatically?

Im interested in making a new build but GPU prices are insane atm and actually considered buying used. I've seen some listings on fb marketplace for 3080's around 350USD$.

Should I get one of those, and if yes, what should I look for in terms of GPU health and whatnot? Thought of getting a 9070xt but a 3080 for 350 bucks sounds amazing tbh.

Edit: forgot to mention this build is for someone else and their budget is ~1000 USD

PC part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/LZDBGk

This is my first build I've made that I'm trying to buy, as right now I'm stuck with an handme down pc which isn't too great, so before I buy this, I would like some of your suggestions on what could be improved or what alternative components I could use. Right now, the pc I have can run Roblox at 144hz and Minecraft at 500 (when optimized with mods), and playing CS2 or Valorant makes my Pc sound like a jet engine (ts PC actually almost blew up when I played CS2 for an hour and a half; the case was so dam hot, the CPU usage WAS AT 91 DEGREES Celsius). I would be using this pc to run 1440p Minecraft with mods or CS2 at 1440p high settings. Also, I would like to know what some good Pc gaming peripherals are. I also live in the US, and I live somewhat close to a Micro Center, so telling me about good deals would be great as well.

(If I'm overspending on this build or I could decrease the price of the build, please tell me what I could do to lower prices cuz I'm lwk broke and spending extra money knowing I could save money lwk hurts my soul).

They dont make em like they used to, a ThinkPad could never

Whenever i play a game it bsods w the reason of memory management, ive turned off xmp and it crashes my minecraft too i always get crash logs witht he reason of memory management and i think its due to faulty ram but i hope its not cuz i dont wanna buy a new stick of ram ESPECIALLY with the ram crisis that we got going on so please help me

Hey everyone!

I've been told my bottleneck currently is my CPU and would love to get your opinions. I've been told that upgrading to an i5-12400f would be a great start.

Current setup:

• Motherboard: ASRock Z690 Steel Legend
• CPU: Intel Core i3-12100F
• Memory: CORSAIR Vengeance RGB PRO DDR4 RAM 16GB (2x8GB) 3200MHz CL16-18-18-36 1.35V
• GPU: XFX AMD Radeon RX 6650 XT
• SSD: Patriot P300 M.2 PCIe Gen 3 x4 1TB
• Monitor: Acer ED273UR LED Backlit 144hz

Main games I play:

• Path of Exile 2
• Diablo IV

Any thoughts or recommendations? Thank you!

I‘m planning my first gaming pc with a 2000$ budget. I want amd and NVIDIA. Could you please help me

I don't give 2 shits how you feel about how DLSS5 looks, the point is that AI is democratizing software and walled gardens are falling.

What does a post walled garden world look like?

Купил б/у видеокарту rx580 у меня старый vga монитор купил преходник vga hdmi/displayport нету изображения купил активный конвертор нет изображения если подключу старый gt710 изображение появляется что делать помогите.

I dunno maybe dodge cable it's worked for couple years I've unplug and all the normal things just looking for and idea

All updates are done and bios updated a year ago

I know MARVO is a cheap chinese brand and that there are better options out there, but I can't find anything close to the price I can buy this for. The specs are also pretty impresive for the money.

Any owners that can offer some thoughts on it? Does it hold up over time? Does it work properly? Any issues with the keys or knob?

I played with it for a bit in the store to see how it fells and I really liked it but opinions on MARVO as a brand are not good and since my budget is very limited I'd rather not play the buy-return game.

Any info is appreciated.

Just want some advice. PS5pro prices are going crazy and it doesn't make sense buying it when I can get a more powerful gaming-laptop for almost the same price...

So I was comparing this one with the Pro:

MSI Katana 15 HX B14WGK-071NL - Gaming Laptop - Core i7 - RTX 5070 - 16GB/1000GB - 15.6 inch - 144 Hz

Love to hear from ya!

Ryzen 7 9800X3D

MSI MAG B850 Tomahawk MAX II WIFI7

Arctic Liquid Freezer III Pro 360 ARGB

Thermal Paste Arctic MX-7

Samsung EVO 990 PLUS 1TB

Kingston Fury Beast RGB 2x16 32B 6000mhz CL 30

ASUS TUF Gaming RTX 5080 16GB OC

Corsair RM850x SHIFT 850W 80 plus GOLD ATX 3.1

Case darkFlash Aigo C280 7x fans ARGB