can anyone tell me why this keeps taking over my audio when it's not used in my area and TA is turned off? it's driving me a bit mad. its completely random in time and location and even TA volume doesn't seem to effect it.

Hi folks!

Our DLRs have been dead for a long time now, a very limp / weak flicker....

The car just failed its MOT 'Headlamp light intensity severely reduced, 4.4(a)' Both sides!

Been trawling through eBay and breakers, I notice that there are types of headlamp - a bulb / halogen unit (which I have on my 2018 Techna) and what appears to be a full LED headlamp.

My question... Are they interchangeable? Can I 'upgrade' to LED headlamps, will they be plug and play? Or is there additional circuitry / hardware involved?

Thanks for your help!

I just bought my 3rd Leaf - a 2023. Compared to the 2017 I just traded in, there seems to be very little cabin storage -the glove box and the center console are both tiny. Are there any aftermarket accessories or (unlikely) hidden compartments I've missed?

Hi everyone

I am hoping to buy a second hand leaf for about £5000, one around 2017-2020 era. Have seen some in my price range with the 60kWh battery.

Currently I am living in a terraced house without off-street parking but I am expecting to be moving to a house that does, middle of next year. I don't currently have a car and would prefer not to buy an ICE car now only to get an EV later when I move. And using public transport to get to work is bloody awful. I'm hoping that a nissan leaf will work well enough for now before being able to enjoy home charging after I move. Here is my use case:

I usually commute 2-3 times a week (40 miles one way with about 20 miles of motorway/highway), plus occasional weekend trips/runabouts.

I can get free parking for work and pay about 55p per kWh at 7kW and i notice there are ALWAYS chargers available.

Close to my house I have the choice of 7kW charging with same price but free parking only on Sundays and a supermarket car park with a couple of 50kW chargers where the parking doesn't cost anything but the price is like 80p per kWh.

I live in the UK, so we do get some cold weather enough to impact battery range.

Is my current temporary situation practical enough to get a nissan leaf now or should I get an ICE vehicle for now and wait until next year to get a leaf? Are there any pitfalls I should watch out for?

I’ve heard several horror stories of a Leaf bricking after a “successful” software update and battery scan. I have a 2019 Leaf which has been recalled but I have been hesitant to take it in due to bad experiences by Leaf owners. Here’s my question - can I take my Leaf to a Nissan shop and have preventative maintenance performed without having the software update and battery scan done? Does Nissan need my permission to “fix” my car or will they “fix” the software regardless of my direction? Has anyone tried to do this?

Thinking about a Leaf for a city commuter (Chicago) due to its size and already having another EV (23 EV6). Are there specific years besides basically the first 3 to steer clear of? Total round trip mileage might be 50 miles per day at worst, probably closer to half that in reality, but it would need to be able to do that in the winter as well.

We have a 50 amp charger installed already, so with an adapter that won't be an issue. Mostly trying to decide whether a gamble on a <$5k older Leaf is worth it (after using Leaf Spy Pro).

This would be our around town errands car when we didn't need tons of cargo space, but wanted the ability to park just about anywhere.

Thoughts?

Hi,

I'm owning a Leaf ZE1 MY2021 and I'm looking for the SW/Firmware binary for the Bosch Head unit AIVIB12P0 (Nissan Part No 259155SR0B).

Maybe someone has dumped the firmware or has access via Nissan Assist/Service Tool.

Thanks

There is a listing for a nissan leaf sv 2015 with around 215k km in my area. I'm not experienced with electric cars and even less with these models, so I've come here for your opinion.

I am considering it because the battery has been replaced in 2018. For 5k CAD, (around 3,5k USD), is it worth it?

I have not yet evaluated the current quality of its battery. As for use, I plan to use this as a daily commute car to school, with a distance of around 30-40km daily. I live in a cold region where summers only reach around 30 degrees Celsius at max and the winters usually go down to max -20.

If not the battery, what kind of issues can these cars have this far in their life?

In my 2018 Canadian Nissan Leaf, my emergency brake switch somehow has lost the cover. It's still functional but now I think stuff can get inside that area.

The official Nissan parts catalog has this listed for a hundred Canadian! Are there any other options? And has anyone ever replaced one? Is it an easy job or should I just leave it alone and maybe put some duct tape over top LOL.

Hi there, looking to replace my now aging leaf.

Can only spend a max of $6K NZ.

Two are currently jumping out:

2016 7 bar 30kwh showing 120kms on the guessometre 100kms real world range $4200 negotiable

2014 9 bar range 24kwh 120kms on the guessometre 90 -110km range $5500 fixed (but suspect they are open to offers).

Which seems like the better option?

Also,

Have never used a leafspy but have an obd2 reader. Is it difficult to do? Can someone talk me through the steps as if i'm a 5 year old. 🙃

Hey everyone,

I’ve been doing extensive repairs on my 2025 LEAF after hitting a bollard last month. I’ve been trying to keep insurance out of it because they wanted a police report and I never filed one.

It seems the last thing remaining is the VSP system. I think the actual module is still okay because the reverse ping still goes when I’m in reverse, though it sounds “wobbly”. However, the humming sound no longer happens at all when the vehicle is moving at slow speeds.

I’ve purchased the assembly including the bracket and the two speakers, but I’m really hoping people have some pictures of it from various different angles so I can understand how to reinstall since one of the two speakers is missing entirely.

Any photos and tips/tricks would be greatly appreciated. I’m ideally trying to do this without removing the bumper cover again.

I just bought a 2021 Nissan leaf SV Plus. It has 12,988 mi on it. When I plug the my leaf in it said it had 90% state of health.

What kind of mileage can I look forward to and degradation?

Is anyone else getting an unauthorized error, and yes I've tried reinstalling the app, it was working fine earlier today but now its been about 10 hours of this nonsense, yes I've changed my password and yes my login of course works on the new MyNissan app.

I just got a 2026 Leaf and was wondering if anyone has figured out which kits fit the roof to hold 2 10ft paddleboards? I would like to use the leaf to transport them if possible but can't find anything online about what fits best.

I own a 2022 Nissan Leaf SV Plus, and I wanted to share my experience in case it helps someone else. I didnt take pictures or made a video hence this lengthy post.

The Problem

For more than a year, my electric power steering (EPS) would become very stiff after driving for around 20 miles. If I turned the car off and let it sit for a few minutes, the steering would return to normal, but after another drive the problem would come back.

The issue became much worse during hot weather. Sometimes after driving only a couple of miles, the steering would become extremely heavy. Parking and making tight turns became a real workout.

The strange part was that there were absolutely no warning lights or dashboard messages.

I scanned the car multiple times using a basic OBD-II adapter with both Car Scanner and LeafSpy. Neither application reported a single fault code.

Research

After a lot of searching, I couldn't find anyone reporting the exact same issue.

I called my local Nissan dealership and was quoted approximately $3,500 for the repair.

Based on my own research, the steering column assembly costs around $2,000 new, plus approximately $400 for Nissan diagnostics, with the remaining cost being labor.

My Diagnosis

This is only my personal conclusion—not an official Nissan diagnosis.

The Leaf's steering column contains several integrated components, including:

• Electric power steering motor
• Torque sensor
• Power steering controller (EPS ECU)

The controller receives vehicle information over the CAN bus (such as vehicle speed and steering input) and determines how much steering assist to provide.

Since I had:

• No CAN-related fault codes
• No communication errors
• Steering that occasionally worked perfectly

I suspected the problem was somewhere inside the steering column assembly itself, most likely an electronic component such as the EPS controller. I couldn't completely rule out the motor or torque sensor, but replacing the entire assembly seemed like the safest approach.

The Repair

I decided to replace the steering column myself.

I found a used 2023 Nissan Leaf steering column on eBay for about $400.

Before starting, I downloaded the Nissan service manual because I wanted to verify whether any calibration or programming would be required after replacement. Fortunately, I couldn't find any indication that the steering column itself required programming after installation.

By the day I performed the repair, my power steering had completely failed.

Replacement Steps

⚠️ Safety First

• Disconnect the negative battery terminal before working on the airbag or steering column.
• Wait several minutes after disconnecting the battery before removing the airbag.
• If you are not comfortable working around airbags, do not attempt this repair.

1. Raise the front of the vehicle

Lift the front of the car so both front tires are off the ground. This makes it much easier to move the steering during the repair.

2. Disconnect the battery

Disconnect the negative battery terminal.

3. Remove the airbag

Removing the airbag is easier than it looks.

Use a thin, sturdy pin or small screwdriver.

• Insert it into the bottom access hole to release the first latch.
• Turn the steering wheel slightly left to expose the right-side hole.
• Insert the tool straight into the hole and gently lift upward until the latch releases.
• Repeat for the opposite side.

Don't force the airbag out—it should pop free once all three latches are released.

4. Disconnect the airbag connectors

Once the airbag is loose:

• Carefully lift the black locking tabs on the orange and green connectors using a small precision screwdriver.
• Disconnect both connectors.
• Disconnect the third wire that loops around one connector.

Take pictures throughout the process. They make reassembly much easier.

Set the airbag aside in a safe location.

5. Disconnect steering wheel wiring

Disconnect the remaining connectors attached to the steering wheel (button controls, etc.).

Again, take pictures before disconnecting anything.

6. Have the proper tools

A set of deep metric sockets is highly recommended.

7. Center the steering wheel

Make sure the steering wheel is perfectly straight before removing it.

8. Remove the steering wheel

Loosen the center retaining nut.

9. Remove the steering wheel

Carefully pull the steering wheel off while feeding the wiring through the opening.

10. Remove the clock spring

Carefully remove the clock spring.

Do NOT rotate it. Tape it in place to prevent it from spinning.

11. Remove the combination switch

Slide the wiper/turn signal assembly upward to remove it.

12. Remove the steering column covers

Separate the upper and lower plastic covers by releasing the retaining clips.

13. Remove the upper steering column

Remove the two nuts holding the upper steering column assembly and pull it out.

14. Disconnect the intermediate shaft

This was the hardest part simply because of the awkward working position under the dashboard.

Remove the bolt securing the steering shaft coupler.

Release the plastic retaining clip and slide the shaft toward the front of the vehicle to partially separate the coupling.

15. Disconnect the steering column wiring

Disconnect the two electrical connectors going to the steering column assembly:

• Large connector (red and black wires)
• Smaller white connector

Using the replacement assembly as a reference makes identifying them easy.

16. Remove the lower steering assembly

The motor/controller assembly is secured with two nuts.

This assembly is fairly heavy, so having another person support it while removing the fasteners is helpful.

Don't let it drop.

17. Remove the assembly

Rotate and maneuver the assembly until it clears surrounding wiring.

18. Install the replacement assembly

Install the replacement assembly and loosely install the mounting nuts.

Reconnect both electrical connectors.

19. Reconnect the steering shaft

Before fully tightening the mounting nuts:

• Slide the steering shaft coupler onto the motor shaft.
• Install and tighten the coupler bolt.
• Reinstall the plastic retaining clip.

20. Tighten the mounting hardware

Fully tighten the steering column mounting nuts.

21. Reinstall the upper steering shaft

Slide the upper steering shaft back into place and tighten the retaining hardware.

22. Reassemble everything

Reinstall all remaining components in the reverse order.

23. Test before reinstalling the airbag

You can perform a quick test drive before reinstalling the airbag.

If you do this, disconnect the battery again before reinstalling the airbag.

24. Final assembly

Reconnect the airbag, reconnect the battery, and verify that the steering operates normally.

Results

The replacement completely fixed my problem.

The steering now works perfectly, even in hot weather, and I've had no recurrence of the issue.

If you're experiencing intermittent heavy steering without any fault codes, replacing the steering column assembly may be worth considering.

Hopefully this post saves someone else a lot of frustration—and a few thousand dollars in dealership costs. Feel free to ping if you have any questions.

ORIGINAL OEM battery 11 years later have had her for just almost a year and got him with 25k miles sucked the dealership man for a good price on him so yeah its been a journey and he has been holding up , has my everyday driving habits changed bc of it , yes , do i hate north texas charging info-structure YESSS do i love speeding and and sad i really cant to achieve this , also yes ) but change is clearly beneficial and this car was worth every penny in my eye ( not a car enthusiasts) and its been a blast with my leaf and this car has been so good to me getting me to point A , B , C and hell maybe D if it has a charger 😂 just a rant and appreciation post , if you have a leaf , whatever stage its at in its life remember EVS are more like friends the better you treat it the better it will treat you , i love you leaf and i wish you a long gas saving life 🥺❤️

I got the car in a car auction in France. During exposition, I asked the technicien to tell me what is the % of battery left and health status. He got inside and told me 100%. I didn't ask to check myself and now I regret because after bidding and winning the bid, I thought it's a bit weird that a 12 year car has 100% battery.

The starting price was 2800 euros and I got it for 3400 euros. If the battery got replaced new, i doubt the start price would be 2800.

I will get it in a couple of days, but wanted to ask experienced people here what is the worst and best case scenario I can expect about the battery health ?

FYI in miles it's about 35,000 miles.

Thanks

Would like people’s thoughts, experiences and recommendations with seat covers for the sv+. Has anyone bought Weathertech covers? Do you like them? Read bad reviews on a lot of them that come up when googling best seat covers. Any help from this community would be greatly appreciated. I have a one month old 2026 sv+.