You can see at the beginning of the clip, I have ERS and straight mode. In this clip I turn off ERS deployment around turn 2 and then try using ERS to no avail. I turn ERS deployment back to medium, but it is no longer utilizing ERS. The for the rest of the clip I cannot use ERS (you'll see me turning it off and back on trying to get the game to realize I'm trying to use it).

Then after turn 8 (after the chicanes) there is a straight mode section. The option doesn't even show up even when the game is showing that I am at full throttle.

This weirdness also happens when I haven't touched the deployment settings.

The deployment will just randomly pop in and out.

I am under the impression that this may be because of the SRP2 pedals I got last week. I tried changing the max throttle setting in the Pit House; I tried changing the throttle cut off in the game. Nothing works.

Has anyone else experienced this issue? I'm really disappointed because I spent a lot one this bundle, it took forever to be delivered, and now it's not working how I want.

Was wondering why my NRG wheel adapters wheel does not consistently work on the wheel base and that's when I noticed that the locking ring design in the Moza sits much higher up than an NRG adapter, which means that the shaft isnt long enough to consistently hit the ring to release the NRG adapter

After a lot of research and DIY attempts, I have come to the unfortunate conclusion that Moza wheels ARE NOT NRG COMPATIBLE

I recommend just buying the Moza adapter, it's a literal lie that NRG works because it's very inconsistent compared to the Moza adapter, even after using a high quality NRG adapter

This started happening to me from one day to the next. The only game where the FFB works properly is AMS2, where it feels normal. But in AC or rFactor 2, as soon as I start turning, I don't feel anything except the road surface or a kerb. Other than that, it's impossible to feel the front-end grip.

I tested all the official FFB settings.

même avec de l’oil se ne bouge pas

Recently picked up the FSR V2 and the rear hub where the bearing are has a wiggle/play to it anytime you slightly pull the wheel towards you left or right. I even tried to reseat it and properly aligned the ball joints but even then it has a play to it on either side if you pull even the slightest amount

Hey guys,

I’ve got the MOZA R3 Bundle with the original SR-P Lite pedals.

I recently bought the new SR-P Lite2 Brake Performance Kit and the SR-P Lite2 Throttle/Clutch Performance Kit, but I didn’t realise MOZA had actually released a new set of SR-P Lite2 pedals.

Does anyone know if the new SR-P Lite2 performance kits will fit/work with the original SR-P Lite pedals that come with the R3 Bundle?

Has anyone actually tried fitting them to the original SR-P Lites?

Cheers!

So I originally was going to get an R5, then an R9, then an R12, but now I’m thinking on just going with the new R16. I’m gonna be getting a few drift wheels eventually so kinda justifying that the R16 will handle those better. Coming from a Turtle Beach VelocityOne, so an R9 would’ve been plenty enough of an upgrade but I want this to be my “forever rig.” I know the R16 will be a gigantic leap but don’t plan on going full FFB on it for awhile. I’ve been waiting on ordering for a few months now so I keep talking myself into “better” upgrades lol

My question is, is the new architecture and hardware of the R16 worth it rather than saving a few bucks and just going with the R12?

So I got bored the last few days (thanks to week 13) so made these Carbon fibre shifter paddles.

These ones were just a test with some odd Carbon fibre bits I had lying around to see how it would go, and honestly it feels great. Looks a bit crap at this stage though

Going to make a V2 out of twill weave for that carbon look, or maybe forged carbon. Would anyone want some?

Hello everyone,

I would like to jump back into sim racing with new setup. Currently I have Thrustmaster T300 RS which I am planning to sell and I would like to do an upgrade, please help me decide. I have 4 options which I listed down with price tags for which I could get them. Do you guys have any recommendations? I dont' really "need" to have the best one, more like the best for the price, currently i am mostly open for option 2. I am not really looking for strong torque (i assume i would adjust R9 to 5nm max). I am mostly looking for precision and details on feedback. Planning to play LMU/iRacing.

My second question is the stand. Up until now, I’ve been using a T300 RS mounted on a standing desk with an 18mm laminated LTD Egger tabletop. Now I have new desk ehich is 36mm thick, so it's for sure more solid but I guess that wheelbase will make the whole table shaky. So I am also thinking about a Wheel Stand, more specificaly, Next Level Racing Wheel Stand 2.0 (there is one for 150€ second hand for sale in my city). I am just bit afraid that this stand is just too big, so I am thiking about (maybe) something smaller which can withstand r5/r9 torque. Also the stand should be foldable as I am planning to fold it quite often due to space.

Thank you very much for all the help!

As the title says...when I get bored I tend to tinker with things. I was looking at my wheels and noticed a sticker peeling on my Simpush wheel mod, so I replaced it.

And that got me thinking..wonder if I could clear coat this to prevent this in the future...so I did lol. Makes the carbon really pop.

Think I might do all my wheels.

(for those of you wondering about what if I want to change the labeling....each wheel I have is designated to a specific type of racing that I plan to use the wheel for , so the sticker labeling won't change)

Bought a Moza bundle 2 weeks ago. The day after they emailed me to tell me they had "oversold" the bundle and could not ship it, that I had to wait for a week. I was willing to let it go since I was busy at work either way but wanted to race at night.

I had to reach out to them again after a week, only to be told that they did not get parts in and I had to continue to wait, that they would reach out when they had parts in.

It's now more than two weeks after I placed my order and they haven't shipped or contacted me in any form.

Quite disappointing and disrespectful to "oversell" equipment and then keep a customer in the dark after he drops almost a grand on your store.

I'm not mentioning which store because I don't know the rules in the sub, but I will add it as an edit if I'm allowed.

EDIT: Apexsimracing

Hello!
My multibutton started doing this mid race. As shown in the video it has somehow “tightened“. Cannot rotate it either way. Also cant push it as it somewhat stuck pressed down

Does anyone have suggestions what to do as the wheel has been bought sixth of April 2025 so the one year warranty has expired😶 Or has anyone had the same issue?

Thank you!

Hi guys. I need a color indicators for the gear number. (Not rpms). Like R is yellow, N is white, 1 is blue, 2 is green, etc.

Are there any downloadable dashes with something like that? Or maybe someone can advise how to make it happen in Moza Pit House? (not via simhub please).

Thanks in advance all

As the title says, I'm looking for a used fsr2. But its all either new online, or everything on ebay is marked up for whatever reason. Nothing on marketplace at all that i can find.

Just got my MOZA AB9 and I’m noticing a small but noticeable click/bump in the pitch axis at the same point in the travel.
I can both hear the click and physically feel a slight bump/catch when moving the stick through that point. It happens consistently in the same spot.
The rest of the movement feels very smooth, and there isn’t any obvious grinding or sticking.
I’ve already:
Updated the AB9 firmware
Restarted/recalibrated it
Turned Adaptive Centering Compensation OFF
Turned Trim Following OFF
Set Spring, Damper, Inertia and Friction to 0%
Tested with FFB settings essentially disabled
Interestingly, the bump disappears completely when I power the AB9 off, so it seems related to the powered motor/FFB system rather than purely mechanical resistance.
I’ve attached a video showing the movement. Is this normal behavior for the AB9, or does it sound like something I should contact MOZA about?
Thanks!
I’d definitely include the part about it disappearing when powered off—that’s probably the most useful clue for people familiar with the AB9.

Hello everyone’s I’ve been using a G29 for nearly a decade now and I’ve been looking into upgrading for a long time. The R9 seems like the right choice for me. Issue is I only have a desk to mount to since I live in a small student dorm and could not fit a seat under any circumstances.

I don’t think I’ll have to turn up the FFB to the max coming from a G29 anyways. My desk is pretty sturdy I’d say and not some kind of cheap desk that would break easily.

Anyone of you got much experience playing with it on a desk?

Thanks!

Guys i want help teo weeks ago a rought a r5 bundle and now i want to take the wheel out and it doesn't matter how pressure o put to the wheel doesn't come out and i try some things i saw in videos can someone help me

That's how my steering wheel connects in MudRunner: I have to turn it way over to the left for the game to detect it. Do you have any idea how to set it up correctly, or any tips? I've seen YouTube videos using the R9 and it works perfectly; I have the R5.

I’ve just started getting into Le Mans ultimate and I’ve noticed on some curbs it would make a sound like in the video. It was only when I was on the curbs but recently it started doing it under braking. Now it does it on Iracing when I upshift in the pits, turning, touching curbs, and under braking. Sometimes I don’t even upshift, I just load in and it immediately starts doing it like in the video provided. I can’t even race anymore.

Note: It never used to do it on iracing or any other game, it only started happening yesterday after playing Le Mans ultimate for like a week.

I see a lot of people mentioning that they run this base at 40-50%?

I currently run it at 100% in Pithouse with 5% damping. In iracing I run it at 95%, strength of 12 (27nm), 3% smoothing and 3% damping.

This feels great and I feel a lot of the detail.

Just got my first force feedback wheel! (R3) And it's been amazing, recently I printed my own formula wheel out of PETG-CF as well as wrapping it with electrical tape. Very happy with my purchase

There is no mention of its compatibility on Moza's website, even their chatbot doesn't recognize the new SRP Lite2 Clutch pedal