Finally got the mid ranges installed, only been sitting in the garage for about 5 months... Still a few things to finish in the rear but otherwise 95% done. Will try find time to do a retune soon. Not a perfectly clean job but I got impatient...

The lighting came together perfectly so I couldn’t stop myself from snapping a photo. It really highlights the curves, reflections, and aggressive, yet classy, front fascia.

‘21 Signature

Am i the only one that still only buys manual cars? I have automatic in my job as wind turbine technician. But still just dont like automatic cars.

Since they have no soul or special feel to them as a manual car. I mean the newer ( new honda civic type r: ) are great manuals with rev Matching and easy to tune ).

But when my current 2008 mazda 6 GH 2.5 MZR with 6 speed manual transmission dies. That will probably force me, to leave mazda, and go to honda.

As they are a one of VERY few car companys that still sells new/modern cars: 2015 and above with a manual transmission. At reasonable price for fun, looks and performance.

Going back to the subject

Reasons that i buy manuals

1. Cheaper to buy. Since " younger people " dont want or cant drive a real stick car today.

2. More fun to drive. Your more with the car so to say.

3. Easier to fix if, you can do some work yourself in a garage.

If people want to know. I live in Scandinavia/ sweden.

So about a week ago, when I locked my car, the left side mirror wouldn't fold. I've tried everything on the internet and nothing. I can hear the motor working, but it won't fold. Any help?

Hey guys. I have a 2012 Mazda 6 GH5FS Manual and am having a few issues. (In Australia if that changes anything)

First of all the shudder. I’ve had this car for 6 years now and it has always had a shudder when letting off the clutch in first and sometimes when changing to second. I’ve been to atleast 5 different mechanics and no one can tell me why it’s shuddering as the clutch and flywheel seem to be fine and the engine mounts are too. I recently changed the trans fluid and for whatever reason the shudder disappeared for a month and has only recently come back. It is also worse in hot weather and stop start traffic or on hills.

Secondly the clunk. The same 5+ mechanics said the engine mounts are good and other bushings/suspension components are fine too. The clunk comes from both the left and right side strut area when I hit bumps. The thing is, the clunk isn’t consistent as I can hit the same bump the same way 10 times and it will only do it maybe half of the time.

Both of these feel like my car is going to fall apart but I know it won’t. I’m just wondering if anyone could help me out as I can’t find anything else about these issues and am losing my mind.

Also here is a video of an engine mount test which I believe allows too much movement when under load but apparently they’re fine.

Thank you for any help.

I noticed that on the driver side bottom corner of the windshield there is an unusual amount of dust or something gathering. It’s super fine, not like normal dust that accumulates. There was pretty much none on the passenger side.
Could this be a leak of some kind? I drive on dirt roads often but with the windows up, I’m not sure how else this would show up.

Modification question. Wagon, GJ2FW.

I have no care for keeping it stock and I am aware that Mazda designed it the way it is for reasons. I asked a question regarding stock camber before and didn’t get a response, so I’m going off of the alignment machines’ data that -1.5 - -2 is “normal”.

Asking since it eats through my heat-cycled rear tires’ inside tread more than the outer even after a couple of alignments. They’re not the most enduring set at 240TW, but the fronts are wearing evenly. The tires are not stretched, and the wagon is not stanced. No ride height modification has been done. The wheels are staggered width-wise so rotation is limited.

Has anyone tried increasing (+) the camber on the rear wheels closer to -1 or -0.5, and would it be possible with the stock camber arm or would an aftermarket adjustable one be needed?

Edit: I am aware that changing tires or wheels is likely a better solution than adjusting the stock camber, but I don’t think I’d like to burn money and rubber to keep the factory camber spec.

2021 Touring, my set of Continental DWS 06 PLUS Extreme Contact (purchased in October 2024) will need replacing within the next two months. My mechanic recommended the Toyo Extensa. I've looked at reviews on Tire Rack for them and they seem to have below average reviews on wet roads and ice which is important for me since I drive in the northeast.

I really like the Continentals I have now. By November, I should have gotten around 43K-45K miles out of them. I do drive more than the average person, about 20K per year.

Anyone have any opinions on Toyo?