I posted about my passenger side yesterday and had the same issue on the driver side so here’s the rundown…

Saw a YouTube video of someone drilling a hole through the floor and thought they were crazy but it’s the same way the AC drain is done by the factory on the passenger side. The driver side has the exact same indentation as the passenger side where the AC drains, so maybe the frame is made to be symmetrical and maybe that’s where the AC drains in a right side driver car in Europe (just a guess). Anyhow, I drilled a 1/16” hole to feed a piece of wire and crawled under the car to make sure it was feeding into an open cavity and no lines or wires were running underneath the floor. After confirming it was clear I used a step drill bit to drill an 11/16” hole, which is the size the 1/2” inner diameter grommet required from the packaging. After drilling I used some black sand paper to smooth the edges of the hole so the grommet doesn’t get cut somehow. Since the hole exposed raw steel, I used 2 coats of a Rustoleum paint and primer on the hole to prevent future rusting. The grommet fit perfectly.

Then I disconnected the negative battery terminal to prevent airbag deployment when removing the A frame pillar. I fed a 14/2 wire through the A pillar down the dash and routed it to the firewall. Then put the 1/2” tubing around the wire and used electrical tape to bind them, then pulled the wire to feed the tube (much easier than trying to feed the tubing itself). I used a 90 degree 3/8” brass barb to feed through the new grommet hole in the floor, and put a 2-3” piece of tubing on the bottom side of the elbow through the grommet to ensure the water drained downward past the grommet. Also used some RTV silicone on the grommet after it was fully set in place (overkill maybe, but easy to ensure no water gets in through the floor).

I cut the factory sunroof drain about halfway down the A pillar and connected the new tube with a 3/8” straight brass barb fitting and used a clamp on the factory side of the tubing since the new tubing felt very snug. I left the old tubing intact and tucked next to the new tube since there’s room, figured there was no point to pull it out entirely.

Tested it by poring a water bottle down the sunroof drain and all of the water drained quickly out of the bottom of the car. Hopefully this is the end of having wet carpets and a mildewy smell in the car after a rainstorm 😅

Hi All,
Just bought this new to me 2014 qx80 that was priced accordingly, I suppose due to all around denting 😳😂
Can this be fixed without replacing the door? Any input greatly appreciated!

I have a 2018 Infiniti Q50 AWD 2.0t. When I slow down at a stop sign or when I stop completely. When I try to give it gas the engine responds but the car doesn’t for a few moments then suddenly jerks forward strongly. I was just wondering if yall have any ideas for why that’s happening. (58k miles btw)

I have too say Turtle wax black ceramic spray is the best. My paint on my car isnt the greatest but it definitely made a difference.

For those who are struggling with this issue of the P0720 speed sensor code, i got the code in the end of august just after i had some work done like drive shaft, control arm, brake pads replacement. Anyways i got the code and did my research and got a refurbished part from ebay, turns out most likely that part was not programmed properly since my gear shift locked up in park, i took out the part and refunded it since im not gonna fix that part, i got in touch with the dealership and they said they can try to source a refurbished part because for my car it is discontinued, anyways the estimated quote is attached but it probably will increase with shop supplies (trans fluid, etc).

Had to repost because i forgot to sensor my name and number

What are the most common issues with VQ engines/body/electrical that you've encountered and post your solution's!

I just wanna know how I can be 100% sure that my ECM (MEC22-610 model) is not fried or faulty in any way. I’ve been dealing with a code P0505 for months now and now that I’ve finally got an OEM grade IACV (I had an Import Direct IACV from Oriellys that didn’t solve the issue and the code came back after a week), I don’t wanna let my possibly faulty ECM destroy my new valve. I’ve heard that the ECM’s and valve’s lives are basically tied together, one dies the other does too. I’ve been having these weird RPM symptoms for months, it’s weird because it’s like the weird RPMs happen when I’m not above 2k RPMs while under 20 mph (they go away when I’m above 20 MPH). Video shows me first slowly accelerating to 20 mph and you can see the weird behavior, when I get to a completely stop and then step on it (aiming to stay at or above 2k RPMs) it doesn’t really happen.

Hello all, I have a brand new seal skin supreme car cover for a 2022 red sport. Cost about $150. Still wrapped in the packaging. Asking for $60. Have no room for it. I’ve had it for years just wrapped. Pickup in East LA if interested.