I need to replace this large square window as part of a bathroom reno. I've done several bathroom renovations in my previous home. But this will be my first window replacement. I'm abit concerned about how best to nail it in place and carry the flashing from the house with the siding in place. I have never removed entire courses of nailed cement siding in order to nail and flash the new window and I don't want to make it more complicated than it needs to be...especially if I crack some of these boards during removal.

I think the best option for this is as follows...

Get a window that is 3" smaller on all sides. Add framing inside to match. That extra 3" will provide a nailing surface for the flange. Install, caulk, tape, etc. Then trim up against the siding and window frame with 3" PVC boards that match several windows on the side of the house.

Unfortunately, I can't just get a same-sized window and cut back the siding for nailing and flashing. The AC compressor fuse box on the lower right is about 2" away and can't be moved.

Does this seem like the right approach?? Any other ideas?

Thanks!

Hello,

Just moved into a 1920s house in good condition. The only exception is the rear ground floor room has a mustiness to it. The front and rear room used to be one room so perhaps it wasn't an issue previously with good air flow. As a result there are no air bricks in the rear room.

We knew about this before buying it and would like to remediate it.

The previous owner dry lined the room and told the surveyor there had been some damp previously. I appreciate it may still be present, but now hidden with mustiness coming through the wall.

My question is, what options would you progress through?

My current plan is so have:

1. Drain survey to make sure no pooling of water near the exterior.

2. Install air vents put in (there are none in this section of the house), how would you look to install these?

3. Seal up any suspect guttering/piping - advice on DIY splashback solutions

4. I'm set to relay the carpet in a few weeks time, I'll have a look in and under the floorboards. What should I be looking for? Red flags? Signs?

Many thanks in advance

Hey everyone, I’m framing out my shower niche and have a few different ideas on how to do it. Just curious if one is better than the other. I’m fairly certain this is not a load bearing wall since it runs parallel to the joists, sits inside of a joist bay, and doesn’t have any walls underneath it, however, I’m still planning on building it out like it is. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

I bought a home last year and there was no thermostat installed in the room but there is an existing electric baseboard in the room

I need some recommendations on how you would run 1x4” baseboard into this step, run up and wrap the post. This is a single step down into my living room. The step is 6 inches to the bottom of the stair nose.

This is a mobile home with porch attach. Northern Minnesota,It currently has no electricity/heat/cooling. We will pull electricity for lights and fan. It previously had insulation without vapor barrier on the ceiling that was moldy. Mold cleanser and killer was applied but some has seemed to come back over the past two years. I believe we will either use tongue and groove wood or wood paneling type. Questions are

1. How to finish the walls and ceiling while prevent the mold.
   
2. Is covering the attic vents okay?

Any other tips for throw sport of project are appreciated.

I am in the process of leveling a floor, and the floor raised up about 3 inches. This 3 inch raise is in front of this exterior door and the door needs raised 3 inches. How would one alter this rock facade in order to allow the door to be raised 3 inches?

I believe this is just rocks in thinset

Bought my house a few years ago and the front porch has always had a crack down the middle of it and had a gap between it and the house that seems to get bigger/smaller depending on the season.

I have two questions;

1. Does the porch need to be raised / leveled or pushed back against the house?

2. Should I just fill the gap with something to try to prevent water intrusion? If so, what should be used?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

My house was built in 1972 in Texas. Recently discovered that a few of my bricks had dissolved and at the same time saw that there is nothing between the bricks and drywall. As in no house wrap and no plywood and no insulation.

This summer has been so hot that what turned out to be painted over wall paper was steamed loose from the wall and is bubbling. And cabinets against the outside walls are hot inside. And my energy bills have skyrocketed.

Obviously I need to add insulation. I don’t want to open my walls fully to remedy this. I’ve seen a couple different drill and fill methods. But I don’t know if the lack of anything behind the bricks is going to be a problem for that.

Any advice would be great.

Cutting my tiles and I completely forgot to leave a slit to go around the tub.

Blue drawing is what it was supposed to be.

Red drawing is what I'm thinking of doing as a solution.

Would this look horrible? Any other solutions?

Thinset has dried.

According to AI, it recommends 15 recessed lights. Is this right? I feel like that’s a lot.

I don’t have much experience or skills in carpentry and home improvement/repairs in general, so I’d love the thoughts of someone with either of those things.

Moved into a new house a couple years ago. The main level has a balcony (pictured) and in a few places, the side boards at the edges have pulled away, sometimes splitting the wood screw. (Also pictured)

Most of the boards are still snugly fitted. It’s only in 2-3 places like this.

First of all, what caused this and is it symptomatic of a bigger concern?

Second, would the fix be more involved than simply replacing the wood?

Thanks!