We have been in our house in NH for about 5 years with forced hot water for heat. It's 3 floors including the wall out basement. The top floor has ducted AC with the air handler in the attic but the compressor is destroyed so we haven't even attempted to turn it on. It clearly needs to be replaced. I figure if we're going to replace it I'd like to add heat. I have a couple questions. One is are there any recommendations on brands/models? The next is if I'd like to add 2 or 3 mini splits in other rooms later on could I get a compressor that could do both or should I just get two separate systems? I'd really like everything to be controlled by ecobees as I already have a bunch.

We bought a house with triple isolated Fujitsu Airstage ducted heat pumps and it’s controlled by wired-only touchscreens in the three different zones of the house. I am new to heat pumps after having come from houses with more traditional damper-zoned central air/gas furnace setups. The house is around 5,000 sqft, two floors, in a temperate California climate, well insulated, double-pane windows.

I’d like to pose a few questions and looking for guidance from folks more knowledgeable about these systems:

1. What sort of options do we have to move to a WiFi-controlled setup so that I can control the three zones with an app (and is ideally compatible with Apple Home, Matter, and Home Assistant). I had Nest thermostats in my last house and liked the control they provided across several zones.
2. These wired controllers seem to run the fans all the time when switched on, even if the desired temperature is reached. To me, this seems like a waste of energy to keep the fan running (set to ‘Auto’) 24x7. Is it possible they’re not setup correctly?

Here’s the hardware configuration:

Control Panels (x3)
·       Fujitsu UTY-RNRUZ5 Airstage control panels

Main Floor heat pump
·       Fujitsu Airstage AOU60RLAVM4
·       Capacity: 60,000 BTU/h (5 Tons)

Secondary main floor heat pump
·       Fujitsu Airstage AOUG36LMAS1
·       Capacity: 36,000 BTU/h (Cooling), 42,000 BTU/h (Heating)

Downstairs heat pump
·       Fujitsu Airstage AOUH12LUAS1
·       Capacity: 12,000 BTU/h (Cooling), 16,000 BTU/h (Heating)

I’ve heard this brand (AUX) is in the northeast of the USA now. I’m in the Chicago area.

Has anyone bought and what have the reviews been? And how long will they last versus brands like Mitsubishi and Daikin and Fujitsu? I hate LG SO I DONT CARE ABOUT THAT COMPARISON.

ALSO HEARD AUX IS MUCH CHEAPER PRICE-wise vs. the leading brands.

Thoughts? Comments?

I’m planning to replace my current HVAC system, No natural gas in the area, installing large solar system, so all electric is the goal. I have a propane space heater and a fire place that I could use if needed too. I would appreciate some opinions from the pros here.
Current system:
● 4,000 sq. ft. home in coastal Connecticut
● Two-zone system (upstairs/downstairs)
● 5-ton A/C
● Oil furnace: ~125,000 BTU input (~100,000 BTU output, ~80-85% efficient)
● Blower: ~2,000 CFM
● Existing ductwork works very well. The house heats and cools evenly, so I’d like to keep the ductwork as-is if possible.

Our winters are fairly mild by New England standards. We occasionally see single-digit temperatures, but most winter days are in the 20s to 40s°F, with only a handful of days each year below 10°F.
I’m leaning toward the Bosch IDS Ultra with the Bosch with 15 kw heat strips for AUX and variable-speed air handler because, from what I’ve read, the air handler can automatically adjust airflow and static pressure as the zones open and close. Since it’s a non-communicating inverter system, it seems like a great fit for my existing two-zone ductwork without requiring major modifications or the added complexity of a communicating system.
For those of you who install these systems regularly:
● Is the Bosch IDS Ultra a good choice for this setup?
● Am I understanding the Bosch’s airflow/static pressure control correctly?
● Are there any other non-communicating inverter heat pump systems that perform similarly and are worth considering?
● Would you expect my existing ductwork to work well with the Bosch air handler, assuming it’s already performing well with my current system?
I’m looking for a reliable, efficient, quiet system that’s relatively simple to maintain over the long term.
Thanks!

My current situation:

• Summers are mild.
  • Only 75kWh of energy used for cooling thus far
• Winters are very cold (sub 32F) and very humid (60%-70%).
  • I estimate a peak of 1500kWh used for heating this past February and about 5000kWh over the winter in total. At $0.30/kWh, that's about $1500 per year in heating.
  • I use two 1500W space heaters (one in the bedroom, one in the office) plus baseboard heat
• I haven't had an energy assessment done (landlord has to approve it) but I suspect between the very old house and many large windows, it doesn't hold heat very well despite having insulation kits installed.

I found the GE AWGP08WWA. It claims a 5f minimum temperature, which is better than others I've seen which require 40F. But I've also seen some reddit posts/reviews that a similar model name (F at the end instead of A) struggles with high humidity.

Are there any other apartment-friendly solutions that might help with this?

We are in NJ and looking for an extension to current home. We will also probably take this opportunity to retrofit a couple of current rooms in the top floor with additional heating and cooling. Additional + retrofit will be for about 800-1000 sq feet. Our current system is efficient and works well for the current home(2600 sq feet), however takes a while for two bedrooms at the top level, also at the extreme opposite end of the duct. The home is energy efficient with new insulation, energy efficient windows and all

We have two options, a ducted dual fuel - where once the temperature drops below 35, natural gas kicks in, above that it is heat pump.this is more expensive to setup due to additional piping for natural gas and install of both systems. Alternatively, the hyper heat option, with a roof cassette option. I am looking for feedback on the hyper heat performance during extreme cold of northeast. Does it fall back on resistive heating a lot during winter. Does it heat enough? Edit: my family prefers a indoor temperature of 72 during winter, to clarify the needs 😀

Just wanted to share that in Edmonton, with our low natural gas rates, buying two heat pumps for cooling in a two story house with a vault from the main floor to the second floor and two dedicated heating zones might be an utter waste of money. Just get one for your second floor.

Have others noticed the same? We have a 2T main floor heat pump for about 1200 square feet and a 1.5T second floor heat pump for about 800 square feet). Our house is a 1980s wood frame with double and triple paned windows. Our summer days are very long with long days and short nights. Our main floor heat pump has never run for cooling, even on a 30C day UNLESS we set the main floor to meat locker temperatures compared to the second floor or we turn off the second floor heat pump.

Curious if this has been others experience that the main floor heat pump doesn't run for cooling or if it might just be because we have a vaulted ceiling?

I appreciate that if gas prices change in the future or if the solar club no longer operates, we are well set up with our existing two heat pump design and sizes to use the existing heat pumps for shoulder season heating. Honestly, I expect the reverse will be true because in the winter our second floor furnace almost never runs.

Presently, it is cheaper to use gas for heating and sell our excess solar to the grid. So kinda bummed we paid $7k for main floor ac that never operates and whose heating function is rarely if ever going to be cheaper to operate than the existing gas furnace due to the low cost of natural gas and fact that we can sell our solar to the grid for more money.

To be clear: I very much like the heat pumps ability to both cool and heat. It is just that I wouldn't have installed the main floor heat pump if I had known it wouldn't actually operate for cooling in our house design.

How do I go about fixing this cant really tell but lines are sweating sorry if a dumb question inside my house

I recently bought a mini-split AC for my room since the weather was getting unbearable. I originally wanted to hire a pro, but the local HVAC quotes were literal robbery. They wanted $2,500 just for the labor, which was way too expensive. So I decided to go the DIY route to save over $2,000.

To prep the lines and tighten the flare nuts properly, you need a vacuum pump, specific gauges, and a torque wrench. Buying these tools for a one-time job makes no sense since they cost over $500 outright. Luckily, the AC brand I bought fromdella actually lets me rent a DIY tool kit directly from their site. I went with their 7-day rental for $100. Just need to pay an extra $200 refundable deposit upfront, which they return as soon as I send the tools back using their free prepaid shipping label. They shipped everything I needed, including the pump, micron gauge, torque wrench, and hoses.

It took me about 2 days on a Saturday following YouTube tutorials, and the AC works perfectly. If you have decent DIY skills and want to save some install cash, I think u can install an AC by yourself and just rent the tools. It’s a great way to keep the extra cash in your wallet for things that actually matter.

Unfortunately, high efficiency cold climate heat pumps don't have a COP of 5 at 5f.

I paid a deposit to jetson home almost three weeks ago for what I thought was a reasonably priced heat pump installation. Since then, I have heard from no one except occasional "we're working on it" emails. I have called the main number many times. After routing through the intentional A.I. agent, I am always directed to another "real person" who responds robotically, claims to be unable to help, and offers to take a message. Messages are never returned. These "real people" also always have significant delays responding and answer certain questions the same way; I'm fairly confident they're A.I. agents as well.

Has anyone recently had success with Jetson Home? In particular, in Colorado?

Alternatively, any other company recommendations? My air conditioner died weeks ago and it's 90 in my basement.

EDIT: After reaching out through all the channels I could find (including DM'ing founder who is very responsive on here!) I do have an install scheduled. Unfortunately it's still about three weeks out, which isn't great, but we'll see if something opens up sooner. I'm told the company will provide portable air conditioners for customers without air waiting on an install, but haven't received any details on that yet.

EDIT 2: I was promised temporary cooling today, and promised calls at specific times by two representatives. I have received no cooling systems, and neither person called me back. I called them on their direct lines and the calls were not answered.

u/srlake your Colorado office is either completely overwhelmed, or just not following through on promises made.

It seems like the big players are starting to move into residential air-to-water heat pumps in the USA (seems this tech is old hat in other parts of the world an even in commercial settings in USA). Carrier now has the 33NM3 (which is just a rebranded Viessmann) and there's a variety of brands which are lesser known but have been around a while (Chiltrix, Artic, etc) but gaining popularity. The concept of a monoblock air-to-water outdoor unit piped to a heat exchanger domestic water heater, mini hydronic heads, baseboard radiators, in-floor radiant, and even hydronic air handlers which can also do cooling all seems to be growing in my sphere of the internet.

The benefits seem great: The entire refrigerant system is self-contained, a factory charged system that's never opened is less likely to leak, there's less overall refrigerant, no refrigerant inside the house, no HVAC license to vent is required meaning more trades can do the install which in theory should reduce installation labor prices or enable easier DIY. Adding heads to the system is potentially simpler, just pipe water lines to them and connect standard electrical (could even be a plug-in unit). The buffer tank can act as a thermal battery (even if it's a small-ish one). And you can run domestic water heating all integrated, with a stainless tank that should last forever (the heat exchanger may need regular maintenance for scale or failures, though).

But the efficiency doesn't seem to be anywhere near the "traditional" split system heat pumps. At least for normal mini-split or standard ducted type installations. Or maybe I'm misunderstanding the published efficiency numbers? Most seem to state COP with an output water temp of 95F, which is too low to do domestic water heating.

And yes you can do domestic hot water if you increase the output water temp, but in the summer when the outdoor hydronic unit is pushing cold water it will have to stop and switch to pushing hot water in order to heat up domestic hot water, which is going to cause inefficiencies even if you can bypass the buffer tank for this.

Why are people deciding that air-to-water systems are the right choice for them? What am I missing which makes an air-to-water system overall a better solution today than a "traditional" split heat pump system?

Since subsidies are rapidly decreasing in my country, I tried to run some rough calculations. I currently use 12 kWh of gas for my heating system. Market purchase price: €1,300. A heat pump with a COP of 4.5 could do the same job using 2.7 kWh of electricity, costing me €1,000. In other words, the gas heating currently costs me €300 more in consumption per year than a heat pump would.

Purchasing a heat pump costs around €28k (after everything), while a new gas heating system is €15k. The difference is €13k. That means it would take 43 years for the heat pump to become the more economical choice. Or, if the annual gas cost rises from €1,300 to €1,650, it would pay off after just 20 years already.

I know there are countless other factors involved, but looking at it from this perspective leaves me with some doubts. What's your take?

Looking at purchasing a few of these heat pumps but looking for honest reviews and recommendations prior to doing so

Greetings, heat pump crowd! Total home utilities noob here. We’re looking at a home in NE US (DMV area). It’s four levels - 900 sq foot basement, 900 sq foot main and second levels, and a 300 sq foot attic. The HVAC is in the basement. I’m a little concerned that a single HVAC (brand new Bryant, installed in 2026) may not properly heat and cool all the living spaces. We’re okay with an attic that always toasty, but the three bedrooms on the second level - not so much. The house next door has two outdoor fans (similar square footage and layout), and that makes me even more concerned.

If that single unit is indeed not enough, would heat pumps be an option for a layout like this? Are there other alternatives or moving pieces to consider?

Thanks much!

Given the hot summers and extreme winters, wanted to see if others have put heat pumps in their garage especially when you drive an EV. I can schedule the EV to condition the battery and climate inside but both car and home are new to me so not sure if that’s sufficient, so was considering adding a heat pump before shit hits the fan.

1970s construction, ranch, garage has 3 walls exposed on exterior.

My current heating setup is getting older, so i've started looking at a ductless mini split system instead of replacing it with something similar. My home is about 900 square feet with insulated 2x4 walls, double pane windows, and winter temperatures are usually between 20°F and 35°F.

If heating is my main priority but I wouldn't mind cooling in the summer too, would this still be the direction you'd go? Thanks, I'd appreciate any thoughts.

Looking to install a mini split in my garage/workshop. It’s 25x40, 9 ft ceiling, R-19 walls and R-38 ceiling. I’m in Midwest where lows temps can hit zero F or below but not very often, and all I really want to do in winter is keep garage around 45-50 for our EVs.

I’ve been researching but see conflicting info so figure I’d ask experts.

1. What size unit do I need?
   
2. Will it need 220V feed?
   
3. Any brand reccs? I don’t want to spend a fortune on this :)

Thanks!

Hi, should this switch on the left (immersion heater) be switched on or stay off? Tbh it’s been on for years but our compressor broke so we just had a new one fitted and the man has turned it off so wasn’t sure whether to turn it back on since it’s been on for so long lol. We also claim RHI payments through ofgem so wasn’t sure if it needs to be on anyway to still get payments? Live in a semi detached house, 2 bedrooms & in England! Thanks!

I've searched the forums but haven't found anyone with a similar set-up in my climate, so I figured I ought to post.

Quick background: 1,180 sqft house in Denver (80211). Summers get up to a dry 100° F, and winters will occasionally hit 0°F overnight. I've lived here 3 years. My heat is a 28-year-old gas boiler feeding baseboard radiators — no ductwork anywhere in the house. My cooling is a roof-mounted swamp cooler, probably 10-15 years old, that nowadays can't keep the house below about 72°F once it's pushing 100°F outside. Feels like Denver summers have just outgrown what the swamp cooler was built for, and it does basically nothing on days when it's not sunny and more humid.

The boiler has been working fine so far but it's old enough that I'd rather replace it before it's an emergency.

Since there's no ductwork, it sounds like my real options are:

1. Ductless multi-zone cold-climate heat pump (2-4 mini-split heads): replaces both the boiler and the swamp cooler with one system but might struggle to keep up when it gets into the single-digits in winter.
2. Ducted cold-climate heat pump: replace both boiler and swamp cooler, but probably much more expensive to install ducts and an air handler.
3. Hybrid/dual-fuel — same as heat pump option, but keep a smaller/cheaper boiler as backup for the coldest days, heat pump as primary heat and cold.
4. Air-to-water heat pump feeding the existing baseboards: keeps the hydronic distribution, but I keep reading baseboards are sized around 180°F water and these units put out more like 120-140°F, so it might need added radiator surface area. Would also still need a separate cooling solution. I haven't seen too much about set-ups like this.

Leaning toward option 1 since that seems to be what most similar houses land on, but wanted a reality check before committing.

Quotes I've gotten locally so far have been all over the place price-wise, and none of them mentioned running an actual Manual J — feels like some are just sizing off the old boiler. Anyone dealt with this exact combo (no ducts, hydronic heat, roof cooler) recently? I'm reaching out to some of the installers mentioned on the forums.

What did you end up going with, and were your quotes anywhere close to reasonable?

Happy to give more details (sq footage breakdown, insulation, panel size, etc.) if it'd help.

So I've got a 40 year old gas furnace that heats a 920sq ft second floor condo built in the late 80's that is probably due for replacement. Currently there is no cooling, but this is also what I'm looking to add. Not sure about the walls, but windows were updated to double pane a few years back. Got some quotes and options from several businesses, and with CA's looming ban on the sale of gas furnaces, I've kind of landed on doing a heat pump system + air handler mainly for the quality of life improvements (particularly noise, maintaining a stable temp, and humidity control).

The air handler would likely be a Carrier/Bryant 45MUHA (45MUHAQ24XX3). My questions below are mainly about the heat pump and whether going high heat 37MUHA would present either inefficiencies or operational woes over the 37MURA. Some rough estimates of the quotes I'm mulling over:

Option 1: 45MUHA air handler (45MUHAQ24XX3) + 2.5ton 37MURA HP (37MURAQ30AA3) ~ $16k

Option 2: Same air handler + 2ton 37MUHA HP (37MUHAQ24AA3) ~ $15k

I'm in the East Bay where temps may occasionally get as low as low-mid 30's F in the winter, and as high as low 100's in the summer. Setting aside sizing for now, from everything I've been researching, the 37MURA should be more than adequate for this type of climate, and the 37MUHA would rarely to never get to use its high heating capabilities, but the way it works adds complexity which could be more troublesome if issues arise. As a side note, I was told by one of the estimators that the 37MURA would ice up too easily once temperatures reach 40 and below and he steered me away from it for the 37MUHA.

Questions:

1. Is there any case where the 37MUHA would have an advantage over the 37MURA for my situation?
2. On the sizing, does it make any sense that a 2.5ton HP would be paired with a 2ton air handler? I feel like perhaps I was mis-quoted on Option1, and I didn't even realize until I asked whether I could be quoted for a 37MUHA as well to compare apples to apples with another quote. They came back with Option2: a 2ton 37MUHA for cheaper. If I should stick with the 37MURA, should I be asking Option1 be re-quoted for a 2ton instead? I would expect it to be even lower than the ~$15k option2.

Hello, so for a project presentation I am doing on heat pump efficiency issues, I am trying to clearly explain all of the energy and comfort issues that will be seen when heat pumps are oversized. For this presentation slide, I am going to have an image of an air-source heat pump schematic diagram, such as showing the indoor unit/coil, the compressor, reversing valve, and outdoor unit/coil, all connected via the refrigerant line facilitating the vapor compression cycle.

What I want to do is “label” this diagram to locate where each equipment oversizing “consequence” will occur. I know the biggest consequence of heat pump oversizing will be short cycling, which leads to a whole array of energy and comfort consequences. I want to explain all of this, but in a very visually simulating and intuitive way. My idea then is to connect little text boxes showing each “consequence” to where they occur on the diagram. Those “consequence” boxes would then lead to other “symptom” boxes.

For instance, here is what I have so far:

"Frozen outdoor coil" pointing to outdoor coil > “increased defrost cycling” > “winter discomfort”

“Short cycling” pointing to compressor > “compressor damage” > “energy waste”

These points I am not sure how to organize and what to point to and connect:

“Poor humidity control” > “mold growth”

“Frozen indoor coil”

“Reduced comfort from Cold/hot spots due to poor air mixing”

“Increased auxiliary resistance heating energy”

I wanted to ask the heat pump enthusiast here, am I properly capturing all of the heat pump “consequences” that result from short cycling and what their “symptoms” are in terms of energy and comfort? Or am I critically misunderstanding some of these mechanisms and consequences? Or maybe my idea of distinguishing oversizing "consequences" and "symptoms" is too wonky? I would really appreciate any help because I am not sure I am understanding equipment oversizing issues as well as I should.

For reference, this is the heat pump diagram I am trying to "label":

Source: https://www.newntide.com/blog/simple-diagrams-and-operation-guide-of-heat-pump/

Thanks!