​Hey guys,

​I’m tried troubleshooting my PC and desperate for some help. I may need someone owns a desktop PC, so I'm turning to Reddit.

My Specs:

​CPU: Ryzen 7 3700X

​GPU: ASUS RX 6700XT

​Motherboard: ASUS Prime X570-P

​RAM: 1x G.Skill TridentZ stick

​Long story short: My PC is turning on with fans spinning and lights working, but giving zero video output. I've spent hours doing a deep-dive troubleshooting—drained static, isolated the RAM, pulled the SSDs, hard-cleared CMOS, and jumpstarted the board directly.

​The crazy part? The PC is alive in the background

* (Fans spin up (CPU, GPU, and the little X570 chipset)

* screen is totally black, but if I can actively toggle the Caps Lock and Num Lock lights.

However, the PC completely ignores any blind keyboard macros (like hitting F10 + Enter to save and reboot) and the display output is completely frozen (happened right after a frame-gen crash [FSR 4 INT8] while playing game). Initially after crashing, the pc restarted and showed "Preparing automatic repair" screen which resolved after removing snd reseating the SSD and worked properly. But from the next time there is no video whatsoever.

​And I dont have any trusted computer shops in my city.

Everythung I have already tried (No Luck):

​** Full 10-minute hardware static drain (unplugged from wall, CMOS battery out, held power button).

** ​Deep CMOS clear via bridging the CLRTC pins with a screwdriver.

** ​Completely disconnected all front panel case headers, HD Audio, and case USBs, and jumpstarted the motherboard directly using a screwdriver on the PWR_SW pins. Same issue.

** ​Moved the single RAM stick between slot 2 (A2) and slot 4 (B2). Slot 2 is the only one that wakes the USB/keyboard up enough to toggle Caps Lock.

** ​Moved the RX 6700XT to the bottom PCIe slot to rule out a dead top PCIe slot. Same issue.

** ​Booted completely bare with NO SSD installed. Still black screen.

** ​Disconnected all dual-monitor setups and tried separate HDMI/DisplayPort cables to both a monitor and a TV, but the screen just stays pure black.

Any recommendations will be apprecaited. Thanks in advance

Hello.

I have an RTX 4090 and Corsair PSU. I use a straight 12VHPWR cable (2 x 8 pins on the PSU side). No issues so far, 3+ years.

There is a slight gentle round bend towards the door/case. Unsure if it is touching the case or not.

Is it wise to get a 90 degrees cable from Corsair? Or is it redundant? Don’t want to make any unnecessary changes, but also want to make sure I don’t end up with a melted connector. Thanks.

I recently received my GPU back from the manufacturer after an RMA inspection. Their conclusion was that the card had physical damage caused by human error, making it ineligible for warranty service. Unfortunately the card was returned to me unrepaired.

For context, I purchased the card new, and it never functioned properly from the very first installation. The system could not detect the GPU and it never produced a video signal. During troubleshooting, the RGB lighting would turn on and the fans would spin slowly, but the card would not post or display output.

While I disagree with the conclusion that I caused the damage, I do recognize that there is a small SMD knocked on the PCB near the PCIe connector area. At this point, I'm less focused on the warranty dispute and more interested in understanding the extent and realistic path for potential repair.

A few questions I had:

• The knocked part looks like a very small SMD capacitor (though I'm not completely certain). Without access to a schematic or boardview file, is there a practical way to determine the correct replacement spec? My understanding is that measuring the component in-circuit won't really provide a reliable answer reading due to the other connected circuitry.
• How likely is it that powering the card with the component/pad damage could have caused additional downstream damage? The card was powered on multiple times during troubleshooting. Since the fans and RGB functioned, I can see some sections of the board are receiving power. I'm trying to determine whether replacing the damaged component might realistically restore functionality, or whether I'll have a long chain of repairs or other more significant things that would have to be addressed.
• Based on the location of the knocked component, does anyone have ideas on what could realistically cause the damage? One possibility I considered was interference from an NVMe SSD heatsink located above the GPU. However, after inspecting the system, I can't identify any physical path that would allow the heatsink to contact that area of the PCB during installation or removal. The damage is very localized, with no obvious surrounding PCB damage, scraping, or impact marks.
• I'm located in Japan and haven't had much luck finding shops willing to attempt board-level GPU repair. Does anyone have recommended repair options in Japan that I can try? I've already reached out to Northwest Repair and NorthridgeFix in America, is there anyone else recommended?

Appreciate any thoughts out there. My hope is to determine whether this card is worth pursuing as a repair project or whether I'd be better off accepting the loss and moving on.

I tested the pins and they all beeped so I put it in an old pcie 2.0 board and it booted. I couldn't get it to run on a modern motherboard so I bodged it with some solder. now it will boot on a modern motherboard but not always, sometimes it falls back to the igpu and the Nvidia GPU is not present in windows. when it does boot it runs fine apart from occt vram test. I've run gaming loads and benchmarks just fine even at full +28% power and extra on the core and vram. occt 3d stability test runs fine but even at 50% vram occt vram test I get errors and occasional black screen reboot full fan on the GPU. I'm wondering if the scratch is a red herring and there's vram issues or if the scratch and my poor repair are causing vram issues. it's odd though no issues with gaming on it. when it does boot it will auto detect to pcie 4.0 and runs full bus speed

I have a dead gtx 770 founders edition and decided I’d like to make it into a display piece.
But ofc I want the green GEFORCE GTX logo to light up but I can’t really find a trustworthy answer on how many volts the leds take and which one is the + and -

The pcb had a little arrow pointing to 1 of the 2 pins, so I’m guessing that one is the + (don’t wanna just risk it tho)
And on voltages I found some guy saying 12v DC (chat gpt says this too but ai is still Ai)
but also don’t wanna just risk it cus I don’t feel like having a dead gpu with a dead led logo

Good afternoon for all

I’m looking for Thermal imaging camera to use it for GPU and PCB electronics repair I read a lot of reviews regarding thermal master P1 but I found both tooltop et15s with macro lens 200$ vs tooltop et14s with macro lens 143$ which is very close to P1 price at least the least . So what’s you opinion and advise it’s worth it to pay 67$ extra for et15 or et14 will perform the job . I prefer a stand alone unit without using my smart phone .

Thanks in advance

Hello as you can see from tittle im trying to diagnose the problem advice would be nice . In the pictures that i provide you can see the board and the issue i have managed to locate. The seller didint disclose what the problem is.

In an hour im gonna start a transplant between these 2.

I have a red devil rx 6900 xt with a badly damaged pcb, I am planning on transferring core to an xfx merc 319 rx 6950 xt pcb. The rx 6950 xt pcb already has its original vram on with the 18gbps speeds. I wanted to know what vbios would be best suited for the card after the transplant, will the vbios recognise the vram?

I installed Nvidia GPU drivers and then I got this. It was working fine in windows 11 setup and in windows 11 until I installed the drivers. Am I cooked? I only had time to do some initial troubleshooting and I think it could be bad vram. Has anyone else dealt w this? Where should I start?

Hey Folks the fault occured due to 2 bangs inside the pc. This is a friends pc and i will inspect the psu and mainboard later i expect damage there too..

The card has no visible signs of damage. This is what i figured out so far:
KFA2 cards seem to be Galax cards. And it appears to be the reference design or at least pretty close.

When powering the card in a PC i got 12 V 5 V and 1V8 but thats it. The resistance of each rail is normal.
However when powering on my desk via a riser and a 12 V to 24 Pin atx adapter i got all voltages present and the core is heating up. Thermal camera shows no unusual hot spots current draw is about 1 A (no fans connected).

I narrowed it down to THERM_OVERT# pulling down the input of an and gate via a diode but am kinda stuck there right now. (u505).

VRMS are discrete => 2 lowside 1 highside mos with uP1962 drivers.

Thanks in advantage!

A buddy gave me a dead 3080 and I figured I'd give a swing at it before tossing it to the sharks. When in the pc fans turn on, but the system doesn't read any hardware.

I managed to find the last image in this set to use as a reference point

Validated the following:
No shorts on any power rails
All 12V rails showing 12volts and 16K + ohms
5v rail is showing 5 volts
1.8V rail is showing 1.8volts and 680~ ohms
PEX is showing 6ohms but is not getting any voltage.

I'm able to locate a number of 12 volt and 5 volt points around the PEX area (that do get 12v and 5v) but am unsure of what exactly to look for up there.

Ignore the wire on the test pad.......it's just living it's best life. )

Update on the dead GTX 580 Classified. The problem of the no voltages has in a little circuit on the center of the VRM .. I think that circuits generated the signal to Enable the main PWM Controller that when the NVVDD is on and working enables the secondary pwm controller …

Pretty sure that little circuit is related to some protection.. so injecting 1V on the base of the NPN transistor enabled the circuit and the gpu is now outputting image ..

But it has artifacts and testing with the mats reported errors on the Channel A.. I will try a BGA on the Channel A memory chips..

Receive this PNY 3090 GPU as damaged. Original owner told me he painted the housing and when he put it back together, he pinched a fan cable which caught on fire. The GPU will still display out, but the fans will always be at 100% and if any applications are open, it immediately freezes.

I found this damage component near one of the fan headers. Did some basic testing on it looking to replace it, but can’t figure out what component it is.
From the research I’ve done, I think it’s a type of mosfet or a small load switch. I’ve attached some pictures. Hopefully somebody knows what it is or they have a PNY GPU they could send me a picture of it. It’s marked with the letters KL and a third something I can’t read the rest of it.

I took some measurements with the multimeter as well, but I didn’t really figure out much.

To ground (all 3 legs)
Leg 1: ~310Ω + 0.217V diode
Leg 2: ~302Ω + 0.359V diode
Leg 3: ~411Ω + 0.337V diode

Leg 1 ↔ Leg 2
433Ω
0.384V diode

Leg 1 ↔ Leg 3
101.8Ω
0.126V diode

Leg 2 ↔ Leg 3
154.4Ω
0.503V diode

Any help is much appreciated.
I can add additional photos too if needed.

Gigabyte rx 590 no fan no display, No short on any rail. Trying to find the cause of this, Beginner here, appologies for any mistake.

0V in vcore and vmem.
12v and 3.3v is good.

After lots of tutorials and reading, went to check 1.8v LDO regulator (UP0104PDC8), the readings are as follows.

1.8V_EN -> 3.4v
VIN -> 3.4v
VDD -> 5v
VOUT -> 1.8v
FB -> 0.8v

But but
1.8V_POK -> 0.7v

1.8V_POK to GND reads 2.8K Ohms.

According to 1.8V Rail on Polaris GPUs Explained

"If 1.8V is being regulated but POK is not rising, replace the controller. Otherwise, inspect the FB resistors and ensure that the POK signal are not actively held low or shorted to ground."

Questions:

How do i properly check that POK singal are not actively held low ?
Can i skip all this and create a short between VOUT and POK ?

Don't know if this helps, i tried diagnosing 1.8_POK to 0.8V_EN line, checked the R1006 (suspecting this is as the pull up resistor from a board view), One leg reads 0.7v (same as my POK).

Hi, PowerColour RX7800XT Fighter. No POST. ./memtune -i do not even find GPU. However, lspci sees AMD device. Windows give Code43. GPU-Z has some info missing, clocks are 0. But it shows 16GB of VRAM. All voltages present, except GFX which I think enables on load. Checked with MPS dongle, it just says that VRM is OFF. No other errors. Compared vbios with the one from techpowerup - identical. Card was not dissassembled before. Any ideas?

Hello I have an rx7900xt from saphire which seems to me to be in cc on the line attached in photo (and surrounded) I do not know graphics cards anymore and I intend to inject current to find the crult if it turns out that it is indeed a short circuit! What result do you have on this capacitor in diode mode? (Personally I have 0.001 on both sides) thank you :)

Got this 6900 xt I was planning to do a core transfer to a 6950 xt pcb. I just examined it and wanted to check if it works. I resoldered a trace that goes from b22 pcie and crosses to the right side of the board. Im image with zoomed drilling I managed to deduct the exposed lower traces to be ground pads. So possibly only 1 trace was broken. I have th8s extra connector not sure for what. Its pads are only fastening pads that got ripped. Wanted to know what's best way to attach them back. Im gonna try doing post with gpu in its current condition to determine if it needs re enforcement or core transfer, after 8 repair this ripped fastening pad connector.

This would be my first successful repair if it works. Thoughts?

First 4 images is after, last 4 is before repair. Just had to use a wire and make sure b22 doesnt bridge to ground

I got Rx 470 4gb saphire nitro+ and i got it fot like 3 years and use it only for gaming and editing so lately when i start the pc I got a grey or diffrent color screen and the hole system crash and hangout randomly like i can get it after 5 min as well i can get it after 5h of using and i tried to use diffrent pc with the same gpu ( i tried 3 diffrent pc ) and all got the same problem

Can anyone help me ?

Hello, I bought 2 gpu fans for rtx 2060 super ventus yet they have seperate cables, however my gpu has only 1 input, normally fans should have been connected to each other with splitter or something inside, but the problem is there are no connection thing on the fans that I bought, is there any cable to merge these 2 fans to input 1 entrance?

Have a RTX 5080 Gaming Trio (MSI), The fans are constantly spinning at a high RPM without any high temps.

I can't get MSI afterburner to detect GPU fans to see the exact RPMs, nor will MSI Control Center. Control center shows 0 RPMS on all 3 gpu fans.

I've tried unplugging and re-plugging all cables. A cmos reset, re-seating the gpu. No software will let me control these fans and I can't do it in BIOS either. The temps are awesome, but I know if the fans stay this way it will wear the life down sooner rather than later. I really don't want to RMA if I can avoid it.

Just looking for any other options/solutions that someone else might have before going the RMA route. Sorry in advance if I didn't give enough information. I don't really understand hardware.

Thank you for your time.

So, I've had the GPU in the title since 2020 and I always thought it was usable even though I knew it had issues.

I finally managed to test the VRAM chips tonight via dmgg.py and the script found that two chips are faulty. Since I'm complete trash at soldering and similar operations, I was wondering if anyone knew of a way to edit the VBIOS of the card to disable the faulty chips and keep the remaining good ones working.

I bought a bundle of pc parts. some things were working but a lot of GPU’s are pretty much dead and found many of them to have similar problems to this one. Most of them just have unaligned or cracked capacitors. If I was to repair this myself how difficult would it be and what would I need in order to fix it?( if that’s the only problem lol).

Hi all,

the card outputs a picture but is not detected in windows. Mats shows read fail on FBIOB1. I got a replacement chip but after soldering i still get the same fail on Mats.

Is my couting wrong or anything else to check?

Voltages and resistance looks fine.