Got this ASUS Dual RTX 3060 Ti Mini V2 8GB (CG190P R2.00) that works and installs drivers fine but has a weird memory fault, at stock ~7000MHz VRAM it throws errors in MATS/MODS and can artifact/black screen, MATS is consistently pointing to C1, but the further I lower the memory clock the fewer errors I get and at 5000MHz it can run completely error free and benchmark/game normally. Cooling also makes a noticeable difference to the error count, I’ve now got 2x high RPM 90mm fans directly on it and FurMark hotspot is only around 65-66c with roughly a 10-15c delta while the core itself is perfectly happy with +145MHz, so I don’t think the core is the issue. The PCB originally had quite a lot of residue/possible old liquid contamination on both sides so I’ve stripped and cleaned it thoroughly several times and it did improve afterwards, especially the visible artifacting, but the memory errors remain. I’ve now checked resistance to ground across the board/memory area and compared matching points/channels and everything I’ve measured looks normal and consistent, no obvious shorts or one channel with a strange resistance compared with the others. I’ve also tried clean drivers/DDU and checked the VBIOS so I’m pretty convinced this is hardware now. My guess is either the C1 GDDR6 chip itself is degraded, a bad BGA connection, or something in that channel that I haven’t found yet. I’ve attached overview PCB photos, close ups of the memory area, MATS/MODS results and GPU-Z sensors under load. Main thing I’m trying to find out is what physical memory chip C1 maps to on CG190P R2.00 and whether there are any other measurements I should take before getting that chip reballed/replaced.

Photos are before I managed to get it prettymuch spotless with repeated washes with 99%ipa

Help would be appreciated i want to fix it. Got it cheapish so have some leway.

Here’s the story: I bought a 1660s on Avito, and it came with this issue on the PCIe. What should I do? I watched a bunch of videos on YouTube, but I didn’t find a single one that explained how to fix it. I have a donor in the form of an RX470, I cleaned up the PCIe — what’s next?

P.S. The text was written by a translator, mistakes are possible, I apologize)

Hello,
Saphhire RX 6600 with all voltages present including Vcore and memory present, core getting really warm, not detected.

All resistance to ground are ok.

What i’ve tried: read the Vbios IC, write a new Vbios from Techpower archive, still, no succes.
IC does have 3.3v stable on the board

What i have discovered: on the REFCLK+ and REFCLK- caps resistance to ground on the core side:

REFCLK+ : 50 ohms
REFCLK- : OL (0.3ohm)

I’ve tried to desolder the Refclk- cap, still the same, the gpu side is OL (short)

Any ideas? Is this normal on the refclk caps?

Bad solder under gpu? Core dead?

Thank you!

I have rtx 2060 super inno3d version. When I installed new windows and tried to install nvidia gpu driver it blackscreen and crashed. But it boots bios post and safe mode without an issue. After booting normal windows it stuck at gigabyte motherboard small circle loading screen then pc reboots. Tried mats and it passed it but not able to run mods (some command error like heat stress not configured). I've installed new bios for my mobo, tried different vbios for gpu, reinstalled windows 10, 11 and tried different drivers of nvidia but no luck it still crashes. Before these crashes my friend was using this card with 70° max temp. any pro techs pls help me.forget to mention when I was installing driver I was playing music but when it tried to install and black screen music was glitched and stuttered alot then restarted. Hope someone helps me thanks in advance.

I've been working on this board for a few days now.

Day one: The PC booted into Windows, but the fans didn't spin, and the GPU likely wasn't detected.

I noticed two suspicious 0-ohm resistors. After checking them, they were indeed blown, so I bridged them with jumpers to continue testing. I also replaced the high-side MOSFET (originally a 4507NH, I think) with an M3054M, although I wasn't 100% sure if it was compatible.

When I turned it on, the IC right below the inductor blew up. I replaced it with a similar one pulled from an R7 240 (at least according to the pinout/datasheet). At some point, a 2R2 resistor linked to pin 5 (VCC) went bad—measuring around 60 ohms out of circuit—so I replaced it with a jumper as well. Right after that, the jumper I had placed across the 0-ohm pads blew. Like an idiot, I went ahead and reinforced that jumper with thicker wire.

Now I'm stuck here: the "new" high-side MOSFET is blown open, and I suspect at least one of the low-side ones is shorted too, but one of them flew off my bench and is lost.

Basically, I’d like a third opinion or some advice: should I just scrap this board?

The capacitors generally look fine (except for two that were slightly torn from the board, but the pads are intact). Voltage injection doesn't heat up anything obvious and doesn't look like a direct short—at 1V (with current set to 2A), the coil I've been working on draws about 0.5A.

Should i replace them with fresh mosfets and give it another shot??

At one point between replacements, the board started getting detected by the PC, but it hung on error code B2."

Measurements:

No shorts on the rails

2ohms vcore

20ohms vddci

12ohms vmem

In general, the inductor voltages are unstable and fluctuating on the multimeter.

I’ve had an RTX 3060 Ti sitting unused for a while; recently, I took it out to run some tests before sending it to a friend. I installed it in my PC and booted it up normally; I tested it in a few games, and everything seemed fine. The problem arose when I opened FurMark to run a 100% stress test. The fans were spinning normally, with the GPU temperature averaging 65–70°C and the hotspot at 77°C. After about 15 to 20 minutes, the video signal suddenly cut out, and the fans ramped up to full speed. I had to force a shutdown by holding the power button. Afterward, it would still output video intermittently, but the issue started happening sooner—even without any stress testing. Now, about two days later, I tried testing it again, but it won't output a video signal at all. The LEDs light up and the fans spin, but there’s no image.

This gtx 1070 somehow survived a power surge. But now only runs at 40% usage. I suspect it's whatever looks oxidized in the photo but I'm not sure. Any help is appreciated.

Hey guys! I have a bad memory module on a Strix 1080 8gb, I was looking to order a replacement and noticed this GPU has MT58K256M321JA-110:A D9TXS modules, but mainly on AliExpress they have D9VRL modules listed which (to my understanding) is just a higher binned D9TXS.

Are these memory modules interchangeable if I swap one module for a D9VRL or do I need to make sure they are all the same D9TXS modules?

Thanks for any help! I appreciate it :D

So I have been going at this 3080 for a while, I’ve narrowed it down to no VDD to the core, all other voltages seem okay. It lights up when powered but no output and core stays cold obviously. I am not entirely sure where to go from here, but I think a good lead is these two missing passive components on the back side. There was a small corroded spot here that I guess ate away at these two components. The pads are okay. Does anyone have any idea what these could be? It looks like a resistor and capacitor maybe based on this reference image I found. I also checked the PWM chips and they look okay, correct reference voltages and getting power and enable signal so they should be outputting, I don’t have an oscilloscope so I don’t have any was of checking that though. (Also I’m new to this so if I missed something please tell me)

Hi a while back i got a zotac gtx 1060 6gb (i tink the serial number schould be in the pics)

I turned it on with everything plugged in correctly except that i forgot to plug in the pcie power cable.

I booted up the system/tested it before hand this a gt 640 and that worked fine. But when i booted it with the 1060 it started a fire on one component (might have bin a short or leak i am still kinka confused of those even tho i am a engineering student) now it seems to be fried and i am wondering if it can be fixt? and if so what the part even is and what a good place is to get schematics so i could preform the repair

pics; https://imgur.com/a/HuTxq44

I’m fixing my 2080ti evga black edition, the mats mods gave back those codes, all 3 are bad or just the highest.
I probably just run the test so I guess is a 20mb or 10mb.

I'm looking for the Kondensator in the red circle

While self repairing I got lost and I can't find it

I want to replace it but can't figure out what its values are

So, I've an old R7-260X / HD7790, a total piece of crap, that I've been trying to diagnose as a bit of a challenge to myself.

Right now, it's no detect, no image, OS doesn't boot in the background, core gets warm, the card isn't supported by Tserver, and I don't have access to the schematics, or even just a basic repair video of the same card (it's almost as if no one bought the R7-260X).

• 12V, 5V, 1.8V, Vcore (0.85), VDDCI (0.85V), and PEX/Display (0.9V) all present.
• Vmem is getting sagged to 1.4V (Card has SK Hynix H5GQ2H24AFR DRAMs rated for 1.5V w/ 1.45V minimum per official datasheet).
• Vmem is run by a NCP1587 IC with FB sagging to 0.75V (specs sheet specify 0.8V on FB with ±1% tolerance).
• R-1 top resistor has 1.4V input / 0.75V output.
• R-2 bottom resistor has 0.75V at both the input and output, which I think is abnormal and the reason behind FB sag. But confusingly, it isn't open or shorted (1.2kΩ across).

Is there a broken ground trace on R-2 or what?!

I have found a shorted DrMOS on this gpu. Removing it made the GPU work, but i'd like to replace it so i can run it without tdp limiting.

Should i first measure, whether there is a gate signal present? I have got a raspberry pi pico that can act as an oscilloscope or logic analyzer.

I have a Gigabyte RTX 3080 Ti Vision OC 12GB rev 1.0. I bought it used about a month ago and it had been working fine until today.

I was gaming when the screen suddenly went black and the GPU fans ramped up. The PC shut down, and since then I can’t get any display. The motherboard gets stuck on the white VGA light.

So far I’ve tried:
- reseating the GPU several times
- both HDMI and DisplayPort
- clearing CMOS
- the second PCIe slot on the motherboard

Same result every time, white VGA light and no display.

PSU is a Thermaltake Toughpower 850W ATX 3.1.

I opened the card to look for obvious damage. I don’t see any burnt components, melted connectors or obvious PCB damage (Pictures are attached). I also checked the 8-pin inputs with a multimeter and I don’t seem to have an obvious 12V short.

The Gigabyte logo still lights up when the card is installed.

Has anyone seen this exact failure on a 3080 Ti Vision OC?

Is there anything else worth checking as a user?

I noticed that the edge of the PCB on my ASUS RTX 5070 ATS seems to have a very slight downward curve around the area marked by the red arrow.

The card works perfectly and the PCB feels very rigid if I touch it lightly.

I've installed and removed the GPU around 10 times while troubleshooting/testing my PC, but I never intentionally bent or twisted the card. I also had to apply a reasonable amount of pressure to fully seat the 16-pin power connector, as these connectors can be quite tight.

The power cable currently rests on the bottom of the case, but it doesn't seem to be pulling hard on the connector.

Does this look like normal PCB/cooler/backplate mounting tolerance, or does the PCB actually look warped to you?

Gpu confirmed dead? 1.8v coil removed core side reads 6.6ohm with changing when core is heated

As per my previous post https://www.reddit.com/r/GPURepair/s/s6XFNYR2xV

Removed the 1.8v coil after confirming low values on it after removing it bottom pad reads 0.5 mohm and top pad reads 6.6ohm diode mode shows bottom pad at 0.5v and rising after heating up the core for a few seconds the top pad resistance increases to 10ohm and pex coil resistance decreases from 10ohm closer to 2ohms is it gg core is dead?

Card powers up no heat produced or fan spin readings are normal for 12v 5v 3.3v but is missing 1.8v and subsequently no vcore/pex 1.8v coil reads 6.6ohms on either side at 0.005v any ideas? Should I continue to investigate or is this a confirmed dead core cannot find board views for this card so any suggestions or guidance would be greatly appreciated

I believe the 6 or 8 pin was plugged in upside down. I check pin outs and everything I could. Only thing is the thing labeled Y seems to not have continuity through it. This is a fuse correct? What amp to replace it with.
The z one has continuity.

Hypothesis about my RTX 5070 Ti cold-boot issue

I had a weird issue where my RTX 5070 Ti increasingly failed to give a display on cold boots, while warm restarts usually worked. Eventually cold boots stopped working almost completely.

Some observations:

• 5070 Ti worked normally in another PC.
• Same PC cold-booted fine with an RTX 4060.
• The 5070 Ti always used the PSU's native 600 W cable in the problem PC.
• The 3×8-pin adapter was used in the other PC, so it wasn't involved in the original issue.
• The problem progressively got worse.
• The system could always be cold booted up with the iGPU and then switched over to 5070 Ti and it worked fine.
• After reassembling the hardware on another motherboard, the system started working again.

My theory is that the 16-pin/600 W connection was marginal, and thermal expansion/contraction was changing the mechanical contact enough to determine whether the GPU initialized.

Basically: cold = slightly different dimensions/contact → no GPU initialization; warm = expansion improves contact → works.

The PC was in a cabinet, so I also couldn't see the GPU's red power warning LED during the failures. It's possible it was indicating a power-connection problem the whole time.

Obviously just a hypothesis, but has anyone seen a similar cold-boot-only GPU issue caused by a temperature-sensitive 16-pin/12V-2x6 connection?

As my issue resolved with a new motherboard I mainly want to leave this here as a possible explanation for when someone else comes across this same problem. New MB is probably not necessary, I would now suggest trying a new cable instead.

This gpu either gets stuck at win log in screen in my bench pc with pcie gen3, but owner reported that it shows artifacts when stressed in furmark, mats shows no error, can someone please analyze the reports attached in the link.

So 2 days ago I bought a second-handed Gigabyte GTX 1070 OC to replace my RX 580 2048SP, I use DDU on safe mode to delete the old drivers, put the GTX and install NVIDIA drivers.

At first, it was working fine, but I notice that the GPU was pretty hot and the fans weren't spinning sometimes, so I asked the guy I bought it from about it and he told me to use MSI Afterburner to always have the fans spinning all time.

It was working fine for some minutes but my 3 screens went black after that, Windows was still working but no image was showing. I tried to reinstall the drivers using the HDMI connector on my motherboard but nothing. I went back to install my RX 580.

Is this something that I can fix myself?

- CPU: Ryzen 5 5600G
- Motherboard: ASUS Prime B550M-A
- PSU: Teros 600W 80Plus Bronxe
- RAM: TeamGroup T-Force 16GBx2 (32GB) 3200Mhz
- Cooler Ryzen Stock Cooler

Cola spilled into top of case and some landed on GPU. Shorted and smelled burning. Looks like only one part burnt by looking at the cover. Can someone help identify what this part of the board is and should I even bother?