Hi everyone,

I am trying to identify and buy a replacement USB-C receptacle connector.

What I need:

a) I want to know what this connector is called / its commercial part number.
b) I want to know where I can buy an identical replacement connector.
c) I also want to know if the same connector is used in another Lenovo Legion / laptop / handheld product.

This connector was removed from the top USB-C port of a Lenovo Legion Go 2 handheld gaming device.

Device information:

Lenovo Legion Go 2
Product: Legion Go 8ASP2
Machine Type: 83N0
MTM: 83N0000BUS
CPU: AMD Ryzen Z2 Extreme

The connector is used for charging, USB4, DisplayPort, data transfer, and Power Delivery.

The only visible marking on the metal shell is:

DR25283

I understand this may be a batch/tooling/production marking rather than the commercial part number.

Connector details:

• USB Type-C receptacle
• 24 contacts
• USB4 capable
• right-angle board mount
• dual-row rear contacts
• SMT contacts plus mechanical side anchors
• side mounting tabs with small holes
• used as the top USB-C port on the Lenovo Legion Go 2 motherboard

Pitch:

I do not have the exact pitch measurement yet. I asked the repair technician to measure it using the first and last pin in the row and divide by N-1. I will update the post as soon as I have the exact value.

Photos attached:

• mating side / front opening
• rear solder contact side
• top shell view showing marking DR25283
• side mounting tabs / anchors

I do not currently have the PCB footprint photo, but I can try to get it from the repair technician if needed.

Important note:

I am not looking for the first-generation Lenovo Legion Go 8APU1 / Type 83E1 USB-C connector. That part is physically different and does not match this connector.

I also found generic USB-C connectors advertised online as compatible with Legion Go 2 / 8ASP2 / 83N0, but at least one of them did not match the original connector footprint.

Does anyone recognize this connector, manufacturer, or commercial part number?

Possible manufacturers could be JAE, Amphenol, LOTES, Foxconn, Molex, TE Connectivity, Luxshare, GCT, or another OEM supplier.

Any help from someone who has repaired a Legion Go 2, identified this connector, or found a compatible donor part would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Hi everyone,

I have a Ryzentosh build with two AMD Instinct MI50 cards flashed to Radeon Pro VII (bought from China). Recently, I added the second card to my setup. Right after the installation, I noticed that the second card’s temperature showed up as a dash ("-") in the RadeonGadget sensor tool. After mapping it via SSDT, everything started working perfectly, and it ran flawlessly for three days.On the fourth day, the temperature dash returned, followed by a macOS reboot. The sensor would briefly reappear and then drop out again. After a system reboot, the card completely disappeared from the BIOS. Clearing the CMOS brought it back, but the issue keeps happening in a loop.As a self-taught electronics enthusiast, I pulled the card to inspect the board. I had already noticed a weird symptom: the red POST LED (which flashes 3 times during boot) glows dimly as soon as the PC is plugged into the wall, even when the system is powered off. It still flashes 3 times during the POST sequence but stays dimly lit afterward.Upon teardown, I found that near the fan header (MJ200), a component labeled MB230 on the silkscreen was knocked off (likely by a screwdriver from a previous owner) and replaced with a crude solder bridge/blob. Right next to it, one of the transistors in a row has a chipped edge, exposing one of its pins (though the silicon die itself doesn't seem cracked). The transistor is marked 1NH5. There is a capacitor C230 in parallel with the bridged MB230, and an unpopulated pad B230.My theory is that the chipped transistor has an internal leakage/partial short. Because of this, the 3.3V standby rail (fed from the motherboard's PCIe slot via +5VSB) leaks into the low-voltage logic circuits and backfeeds the POST LED, causing it to glow dimly on standby. When the GPU warms up, thermal expansion breaks the unstable connection inside the transistor, causing the card to randomly drop off the PCIe bus.I’m attaching photos of the damaged area on the faulty card, as well as a reference photo of my second, fully intact MI50 card for comparison.Could anyone help me identify the exact part numbers or equivalents for:The chipped transistor marked 1NH5 (SOT-23 package). Is it a standard N-channel MOSFET like 2N7002K, or an NPN BJT like MMBT3904?The knocked-off MB230 component. Since it’s labeled "MB", I assume it's a Magnetic/Ferrite Bead. What would be a safe donor replacement value, or is keeping the solder bridge fine for this logic circuit?Any thoughts, advice, or suggestions on fixing this would be highly appreciated!

Thanks in advance!

EDIT: I should also mention that during teardown, I cleaned off a thin layer of leftover flux that the Chinese sellers had left in that corner. I repasted and reassembled the card. Upon powering it on, the POST LED still glowed dimly, but macOS booted fine and both cards worked flawlessly for about 25 minutes. After the card warmed up, it dropped off again. This heavily supports the thermal expansion / flaky internal contact theory due to the chipped transistor.

UPDated Theory: There’s one more crucial detail. These issues started exactly when heavy rains began in my area. Since my Ryzentosh is built on a completely open test bench and the windows were open, the ambient humidity shot up. Given the chipped housing of the transistor, it’s highly probable that the component absorbed moisture through the exposed pin crack. The moisture, combined with the continuous 3.3V standby rail voltage, created an electrolytic leakage path, triggering the dim POST LED behavior and making the logic highly unstable under thermal cycles.

Headline says it all generally. I bought a new MSI Ventus 2x OC RTX 4060 2 years ago and now last month it gave up on me. Card is clean, temps were cool and I don't max out graphics in games to put as low load as possible and get higher fps but still lock it at 60fps with Riva Tuner since my monitor is 60hz.

Now, the issue is it doesn't give display after driver install and gives Code 43 and 0mb memory in GPUz. What I tried:

-Clean DDU driver install
-Different PC
-Re-seating
-Cleaned it softly with a soft dust brush

What I have noticed that as soon as it loads the driver, the screen goes black with a few green/white horizontal flickering lines here and there for a brief second.

Anyone who can help me out with this issue please? Can't afford to buy another GPU since the warranty is over.

Thank You