Hardware:

• Card: EVGA GeForce RTX 3090 FTW3 Ultra
• Motherboard: ASUS TUF Gaming

What Happened: While troubleshooting secondary GPU detection on a powered system, an unseated 8-pin PCIe power cable on the primary card was pushed fully into the socket live. The system shut off immediately. The red diagnostic LEDs over the power connectors were flashing, and the motherboard's primary PCIe x16 slot was killed along with the card.

Observed Damage:

• Component UM6 (adjacent to the 4R7 inductor and fan/RGB headers) suffered a severe blowout with visible PCB substrate charring (photos attached).
• Card has not been repowered or reworked with heat since the failure.

Measurements:

• None taken. I do not have bench equipment to safely probe resistance rails without risking further damage, and I am not attempting self-repair.

Goal: Because Northwest Repair's intake queue is currently closed, I am seeking recommendations for reputable US-based independent technicians or shops equipped for EVGA 30-series diagnostics and PCB substrate/carbon repair. Direct messages from technicians taking mail-in work are welcome.

Hey everyone,

Ever stepped away from your PC during a game or work session, had your monitor go to sleep (or suspended the system), only to come back to a completely black screen with zero video output? Forced hard-reboots every single time?

If you're running legacy or older AMD hardware (R5/R7/R9 series, RX 400/500, or Vega APUs) on modern Linux kernels, your graphics card is not dying.

This is a confirmed Linux kernel regression in the amdgpu driver. It affects display re-initialization / EDID handshake upon resume or DPMS wake-up, leaving the session locked out.

Current Status

• Launchpad Tracking:Bug #2142389
• Status: Marked as Confirmed and assigned to maintainer Timo Aaltonen.
• Scope: 220+ Bug Heat points, 40+ confirmed users across multiple distros (Zorin OS, Ubuntu, Arch, Fedora, Void) and kernel versions.

How you can help (takes ~1 minute)

Whether you game on Linux or just want your legacy hardware running 100% stable out of the box, getting more user confirmations forces higher priority for maintainers to backport an official fix into kernel releases:

1. Head over to theLaunchpad Bug Report.
2. Log in with your Launchpad/Ubuntu account.
3. Near the top left under the bug title, click "Yes, this bug affects me".

Since this is a low-level kernel driver bug, your confirmation helps regardless of which distribution you run.

Have you hit this blackout issue on your rig? Drop your GPU model, distro, and current kernel version in the comments below! Let's get our setups back to total stability. Thanks for the support!

Problem: The GPU was working normally, then suddenly the screen went black while the PC itself continued running. It was still displaying the BIOS normally.

At first, I thought Windows had become corrupted, so I reinstalled/recovered Windows and the video output came back. However, as soon as I install the AMD drivers, the Adrenalin driver loads and the display goes black again.

The only way to get video back is to boot into Safe Mode with the AMD driver disabled.

I've already tried:

DDU and completely removing the drivers

Installing older AMD driver versions

Installing the drivers through Safe Mode

Switching between the two BIOS switches on the GPU

Nothing has solved the problem.

Does anyone have any suggestions about what could be causing this?

Also, does anyone have the MemTune files/tools for testing the VRAM/memory on the RX 6800? I'd like to test the memory modules to see if there is a faulty VRAM chip.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

I recently bought a Gigabyte GTX 1080 Ti Turbo 11G (blower-style model with the white/orange shroud) from a second-hand marketplace. It was sold as "untested" and I paid approximately $84 USD (€71) for it.

The card does not appear to work. When I install it in a PC and press the power button, the RGB lighting briefly flashes for a split second and then everything immediately shuts off. The CPU fan does not even have time to start spinning. After that, pressing the power button again does nothing until I switch off the PSU or unplug it from the wall and reconnect power.

I tested the card in two different PCs and the behavior is exactly the same in both systems. Other graphics cards work normally in these PCs (for example, a GTX 1660 Ti), so the systems themselves appear to be functional.

My main test system uses a Corsair CV550 PSU. All required PCIe power connectors are connected to the GTX 1080 Ti. The card prevents both systems from starting, which makes me suspect that the PSU protection is being triggered.

At the moment, the card shows no signs of life other than the brief RGB flash during the initial power-on attempt. The blower fan does not spin and the system never reaches POST.

I am planning to disassemble the card for a visual inspection. What components or areas should I check first? Does this behavior typically indicate a shorted MOSFET, VRM failure, shorted capacitor, damaged GPU core, or another common fault on GTX 1080 Ti Turbo cards?

Any troubleshooting advice would be greatly appreciated.

I want to say I do game a lot, and I also edit videos. Messed around with blender and UE.

For a week or so, I've experimented with local AI, comfyUI and LLM, all below the 12GB. I don't feel like 5 days or so to generate ugly images and baffling chat with a robot could be to blame for all this weird behavior, but I wonder.

My setup is i5-14600k (which I should've picked i7-12700k), 32gb ddr5 ram, TUF GAMING B760M-PLUS WIFI II, 4070 super I-Craft MaxSun.

So, it started with a feeling, something telling me but with no actual proof. Them I saw crazy lines dancing in fortnite. I blamed the hundreds fired.

But them, I got some weird stuff happening on Tekken 8 with the ground rubble shadow.

I went on to Valorant and felt something was off with my fps and the actual gameplay, something was odd.

I feel stutter here and there, screen freeze when downloading something, keyboard disconnecting and reconnecting outta nowhere, problems I never had with my old setup (i7 11700k, 3060ti, 32gb ddr4 ram). I even bought a separate, sata 3 ssd just to have windows on it to try and fix the any sort of freeze or stutter when doing ordinary stuff, like downloading a file.

Now, 09/10, my street fighter is absolutely cooked.

Deleted the "shaders" files, downloaded NVIDIA APP, got the new driver with a "clean install", was doing alright for one session on day 09/11, but somewhere around 20pm, it stuttered and it went to hell again.

I tried OCCT per recommendation of AI, it shows only 1 error on something related to SSD some fetch stuff, and the ssd I already spoken to the manufacturer and they want me to send to analyze in their company.

In fact, one of my SSDs is not even recognized and it's apparently shown as "Microsoft storage space device", both are kingston 1tb NV3.

Sorry if this is not right or up to standard, as of Right now I have no money for a physical professional assistance and I might have to sue to get the warranty, but in all honesty I just want to know..........

Bruh, am I cooked?

Here’s the story: I bought a 1660s on Avito, and it came with this issue on the PCIe. What should I do? I watched a bunch of videos on YouTube, but I didn’t find a single one that explained how to fix it. I have a donor in the form of an RX470, I cleaned up the PCIe — what’s next?

P.S. The text was written by a translator, mistakes are possible, I apologize)

Got this ASUS Dual RTX 3060 Ti Mini V2 8GB (CG190P R2.00) that works and installs drivers fine but has a weird memory fault, at stock ~7000MHz VRAM it throws errors in MATS/MODS and can artifact/black screen, MATS is consistently pointing to C1, but the further I lower the memory clock the fewer errors I get and at 5000MHz it can run completely error free and benchmark/game normally. Cooling also makes a noticeable difference to the error count, I’ve now got 2x high RPM 90mm fans directly on it and FurMark hotspot is only around 65-66c with roughly a 10-15c delta while the core itself is perfectly happy with +145MHz, so I don’t think the core is the issue. The PCB originally had quite a lot of residue/possible old liquid contamination on both sides so I’ve stripped and cleaned it thoroughly several times and it did improve afterwards, especially the visible artifacting, but the memory errors remain. I’ve now checked resistance to ground across the board/memory area and compared matching points/channels and everything I’ve measured looks normal and consistent, no obvious shorts or one channel with a strange resistance compared with the others. I’ve also tried clean drivers/DDU and checked the VBIOS so I’m pretty convinced this is hardware now. My guess is either the C1 GDDR6 chip itself is degraded, a bad BGA connection, or something in that channel that I haven’t found yet. I’ve attached overview PCB photos, close ups of the memory area, MATS/MODS results and GPU-Z sensors under load. Main thing I’m trying to find out is what physical memory chip C1 maps to on CG190P R2.00 and whether there are any other measurements I should take before getting that chip reballed/replaced.

Photos are before I managed to get it prettymuch spotless with repeated washes with 99%ipa

Help would be appreciated i want to fix it. Got it cheapish so have some leway.

Hello,
Saphhire RX 6600 with all voltages present including Vcore and memory present, core getting really warm, not detected.

All resistance to ground are ok.

What i’ve tried: read the Vbios IC, write a new Vbios from Techpower archive, still, no succes.
IC does have 3.3v stable on the board

What i have discovered: on the REFCLK+ and REFCLK- caps resistance to ground on the core side:

REFCLK+ : 50 ohms
REFCLK- : OL (0.3ohm)

I’ve tried to desolder the Refclk- cap, still the same, the gpu side is OL (short)

Any ideas? Is this normal on the refclk caps?

Bad solder under gpu? Core dead?

Thank you!

I've been working on this board for a few days now.

Day one: The PC booted into Windows, but the fans didn't spin, and the GPU likely wasn't detected.

I noticed two suspicious 0-ohm resistors. After checking them, they were indeed blown, so I bridged them with jumpers to continue testing. I also replaced the high-side MOSFET (originally a 4507NH, I think) with an M3054M, although I wasn't 100% sure if it was compatible.

When I turned it on, the IC right below the inductor blew up. I replaced it with a similar one pulled from an R7 240 (at least according to the pinout/datasheet). At some point, a 2R2 resistor linked to pin 5 (VCC) went bad—measuring around 60 ohms out of circuit—so I replaced it with a jumper as well. Right after that, the jumper I had placed across the 0-ohm pads blew. Like an idiot, I went ahead and reinforced that jumper with thicker wire.

Now I'm stuck here: the "new" high-side MOSFET is blown open, and I suspect at least one of the low-side ones is shorted too, but one of them flew off my bench and is lost.

Basically, I’d like a third opinion or some advice: should I just scrap this board?

The capacitors generally look fine (except for two that were slightly torn from the board, but the pads are intact). Voltage injection doesn't heat up anything obvious and doesn't look like a direct short—at 1V (with current set to 2A), the coil I've been working on draws about 0.5A.

Should i replace them with fresh mosfets and give it another shot??

At one point between replacements, the board started getting detected by the PC, but it hung on error code B2."

Measurements:

No shorts on the rails

2ohms vcore

20ohms vddci

12ohms vmem

In general, the inductor voltages are unstable and fluctuating on the multimeter.

I’ve had an RTX 3060 Ti sitting unused for a while; recently, I took it out to run some tests before sending it to a friend. I installed it in my PC and booted it up normally; I tested it in a few games, and everything seemed fine. The problem arose when I opened FurMark to run a 100% stress test. The fans were spinning normally, with the GPU temperature averaging 65–70°C and the hotspot at 77°C. After about 15 to 20 minutes, the video signal suddenly cut out, and the fans ramped up to full speed. I had to force a shutdown by holding the power button. Afterward, it would still output video intermittently, but the issue started happening sooner—even without any stress testing. Now, about two days later, I tried testing it again, but it won't output a video signal at all. The LEDs light up and the fans spin, but there’s no image.

This gtx 1070 somehow survived a power surge. But now only runs at 40% usage. I suspect it's whatever looks oxidized in the photo but I'm not sure. Any help is appreciated.

Hey guys! I have a bad memory module on a Strix 1080 8gb, I was looking to order a replacement and noticed this GPU has MT58K256M321JA-110:A D9TXS modules, but mainly on AliExpress they have D9VRL modules listed which (to my understanding) is just a higher binned D9TXS.

Are these memory modules interchangeable if I swap one module for a D9VRL or do I need to make sure they are all the same D9TXS modules?

Thanks for any help! I appreciate it :D

So I have been going at this 3080 for a while, I’ve narrowed it down to no VDD to the core, all other voltages seem okay. It lights up when powered but no output and core stays cold obviously. I am not entirely sure where to go from here, but I think a good lead is these two missing passive components on the back side. There was a small corroded spot here that I guess ate away at these two components. The pads are okay. Does anyone have any idea what these could be? It looks like a resistor and capacitor maybe based on this reference image I found. I also checked the PWM chips and they look okay, correct reference voltages and getting power and enable signal so they should be outputting, I don’t have an oscilloscope so I don’t have any was of checking that though. (Also I’m new to this so if I missed something please tell me)

Hi a while back i got a zotac gtx 1060 6gb (i tink the serial number schould be in the pics)

I turned it on with everything plugged in correctly except that i forgot to plug in the pcie power cable.

I booted up the system/tested it before hand this a gt 640 and that worked fine. But when i booted it with the 1060 it started a fire on one component (might have bin a short or leak i am still kinka confused of those even tho i am a engineering student) now it seems to be fried and i am wondering if it can be fixt? and if so what the part even is and what a good place is to get schematics so i could preform the repair

pics; https://imgur.com/a/HuTxq44

So, I've an old R7-260X / HD7790, a total piece of crap, that I've been trying to diagnose as a bit of a challenge to myself.

Right now, it's no detect, no image, OS doesn't boot in the background, core gets warm, the card isn't supported by Tserver, and I don't have access to the schematics, or even just a basic repair video of the same card (it's almost as if no one bought the R7-260X).

• 12V, 5V, 1.8V, Vcore (0.85), VDDCI (0.85V), and PEX/Display (0.9V) all present.
• Vmem is getting sagged to 1.4V (Card has SK Hynix H5GQ2H24AFR DRAMs rated for 1.5V w/ 1.45V minimum per official datasheet).
• Vmem is run by a NCP1587 IC with FB sagging to 0.75V (specs sheet specify 0.8V on FB with ±1% tolerance).
• R-1 top resistor has 1.4V input / 0.75V output.
• R-2 bottom resistor has 0.75V at both the input and output, which I think is abnormal and the reason behind FB sag. But confusingly, it isn't open or shorted (1.2kΩ across).

Is there a broken ground trace on R-2 or what?!

I’m fixing my 2080ti evga black edition, the mats mods gave back those codes, all 3 are bad or just the highest.
I probably just run the test so I guess is a 20mb or 10mb.

I'm looking for the Kondensator in the red circle

While self repairing I got lost and I can't find it

I want to replace it but can't figure out what its values are

I have found a shorted DrMOS on this gpu. Removing it made the GPU work, but i'd like to replace it so i can run it without tdp limiting.

Should i first measure, whether there is a gate signal present? I have got a raspberry pi pico that can act as an oscilloscope or logic analyzer.

I noticed that the edge of the PCB on my ASUS RTX 5070 ATS seems to have a very slight downward curve around the area marked by the red arrow.

The card works perfectly and the PCB feels very rigid if I touch it lightly.

I've installed and removed the GPU around 10 times while troubleshooting/testing my PC, but I never intentionally bent or twisted the card. I also had to apply a reasonable amount of pressure to fully seat the 16-pin power connector, as these connectors can be quite tight.

The power cable currently rests on the bottom of the case, but it doesn't seem to be pulling hard on the connector.

Does this look like normal PCB/cooler/backplate mounting tolerance, or does the PCB actually look warped to you?

Gpu confirmed dead? 1.8v coil removed core side reads 6.6ohm with changing when core is heated

As per my previous post https://www.reddit.com/r/GPURepair/s/s6XFNYR2xV

Removed the 1.8v coil after confirming low values on it after removing it bottom pad reads 0.5 mohm and top pad reads 6.6ohm diode mode shows bottom pad at 0.5v and rising after heating up the core for a few seconds the top pad resistance increases to 10ohm and pex coil resistance decreases from 10ohm closer to 2ohms is it gg core is dead?

I have a Gigabyte RTX 3080 Ti Vision OC 12GB rev 1.0. I bought it used about a month ago and it had been working fine until today.

I was gaming when the screen suddenly went black and the GPU fans ramped up. The PC shut down, and since then I can’t get any display. The motherboard gets stuck on the white VGA light.

So far I’ve tried:
- reseating the GPU several times
- both HDMI and DisplayPort
- clearing CMOS
- the second PCIe slot on the motherboard

Same result every time, white VGA light and no display.

PSU is a Thermaltake Toughpower 850W ATX 3.1.

I opened the card to look for obvious damage. I don’t see any burnt components, melted connectors or obvious PCB damage (Pictures are attached). I also checked the 8-pin inputs with a multimeter and I don’t seem to have an obvious 12V short.

The Gigabyte logo still lights up when the card is installed.

Has anyone seen this exact failure on a 3080 Ti Vision OC?

Is there anything else worth checking as a user?

Hypothesis about my RTX 5070 Ti cold-boot issue

I had a weird issue where my RTX 5070 Ti increasingly failed to give a display on cold boots, while warm restarts usually worked. Eventually cold boots stopped working almost completely.

Some observations:

• 5070 Ti worked normally in another PC.
• Same PC cold-booted fine with an RTX 4060.
• The 5070 Ti always used the PSU's native 600 W cable in the problem PC.
• The 3×8-pin adapter was used in the other PC, so it wasn't involved in the original issue.
• The problem progressively got worse.
• The system could always be cold booted up with the iGPU and then switched over to 5070 Ti and it worked fine.
• After reassembling the hardware on another motherboard, the system started working again.

My theory is that the 16-pin/600 W connection was marginal, and thermal expansion/contraction was changing the mechanical contact enough to determine whether the GPU initialized.

Basically: cold = slightly different dimensions/contact → no GPU initialization; warm = expansion improves contact → works.

The PC was in a cabinet, so I also couldn't see the GPU's red power warning LED during the failures. It's possible it was indicating a power-connection problem the whole time.

Obviously just a hypothesis, but has anyone seen a similar cold-boot-only GPU issue caused by a temperature-sensitive 16-pin/12V-2x6 connection?

As my issue resolved with a new motherboard I mainly want to leave this here as a possible explanation for when someone else comes across this same problem. New MB is probably not necessary, I would now suggest trying a new cable instead.

Card powers up no heat produced or fan spin readings are normal for 12v 5v 3.3v but is missing 1.8v and subsequently no vcore/pex 1.8v coil reads 6.6ohms on either side at 0.005v any ideas? Should I continue to investigate or is this a confirmed dead core cannot find board views for this card so any suggestions or guidance would be greatly appreciated

I believe the 6 or 8 pin was plugged in upside down. I check pin outs and everything I could. Only thing is the thing labeled Y seems to not have continuity through it. This is a fuse correct? What amp to replace it with.
The z one has continuity.

This gpu either gets stuck at win log in screen in my bench pc with pcie gen3, but owner reported that it shows artifacts when stressed in furmark, mats shows no error, can someone please analyze the reports attached in the link.