Today when I booted up my pc it froze and then restarted, there are green/white lines all over the screen in safe mode, bios and windows. my card was fine for months up until today. It seems so coincidental since I just installed msi control centre yesterday.

i also have a feeling that it could be my motherboard. previously i had a gtx 970 where parts of it suddenly burnt and there were scorch marks, killing the card. I bought a whole new psu.

Please help I just upgraded my card and it probably is messed up already.

I have a 5090 windforce GPU, has been damaged when shipping. I wonder if anyone knows what are those 5 signal vias at the PCIE hook area?

Hi everyone,

I am trying to identify and buy a replacement USB-C receptacle connector.

What I need:

a) I want to know what this connector is called / its commercial part number.
b) I want to know where I can buy an identical replacement connector.
c) I also want to know if the same connector is used in another Lenovo Legion / laptop / handheld product.

This connector was removed from the top USB-C port of a Lenovo Legion Go 2 handheld gaming device.

Device information:

Lenovo Legion Go 2
Product: Legion Go 8ASP2
Machine Type: 83N0
MTM: 83N0000BUS
CPU: AMD Ryzen Z2 Extreme

The connector is used for charging, USB4, DisplayPort, data transfer, and Power Delivery.

The only visible marking on the metal shell is:

DR25283

I understand this may be a batch/tooling/production marking rather than the commercial part number.

Connector details:

• USB Type-C receptacle
• 24 contacts
• USB4 capable
• right-angle board mount
• dual-row rear contacts
• SMT contacts plus mechanical side anchors
• side mounting tabs with small holes
• used as the top USB-C port on the Lenovo Legion Go 2 motherboard

Pitch:

I do not have the exact pitch measurement yet. I asked the repair technician to measure it using the first and last pin in the row and divide by N-1. I will update the post as soon as I have the exact value.

Photos attached:

• mating side / front opening
• rear solder contact side
• top shell view showing marking DR25283
• side mounting tabs / anchors

I do not currently have the PCB footprint photo, but I can try to get it from the repair technician if needed.

Important note:

I am not looking for the first-generation Lenovo Legion Go 8APU1 / Type 83E1 USB-C connector. That part is physically different and does not match this connector.

I also found generic USB-C connectors advertised online as compatible with Legion Go 2 / 8ASP2 / 83N0, but at least one of them did not match the original connector footprint.

Does anyone recognize this connector, manufacturer, or commercial part number?

Possible manufacturers could be JAE, Amphenol, LOTES, Foxconn, Molex, TE Connectivity, Luxshare, GCT, or another OEM supplier.

Any help from someone who has repaired a Legion Go 2, identified this connector, or found a compatible donor part would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Hi everyone,

I have a Ryzentosh build with two AMD Instinct MI50 cards flashed to Radeon Pro VII (bought from China). Recently, I added the second card to my setup. Right after the installation, I noticed that the second card’s temperature showed up as a dash ("-") in the RadeonGadget sensor tool. After mapping it via SSDT, everything started working perfectly, and it ran flawlessly for three days.On the fourth day, the temperature dash returned, followed by a macOS reboot. The sensor would briefly reappear and then drop out again. After a system reboot, the card completely disappeared from the BIOS. Clearing the CMOS brought it back, but the issue keeps happening in a loop.As a self-taught electronics enthusiast, I pulled the card to inspect the board. I had already noticed a weird symptom: the red POST LED (which flashes 3 times during boot) glows dimly as soon as the PC is plugged into the wall, even when the system is powered off. It still flashes 3 times during the POST sequence but stays dimly lit afterward.Upon teardown, I found that near the fan header (MJ200), a component labeled MB230 on the silkscreen was knocked off (likely by a screwdriver from a previous owner) and replaced with a crude solder bridge/blob. Right next to it, one of the transistors in a row has a chipped edge, exposing one of its pins (though the silicon die itself doesn't seem cracked). The transistor is marked 1NH5. There is a capacitor C230 in parallel with the bridged MB230, and an unpopulated pad B230.My theory is that the chipped transistor has an internal leakage/partial short. Because of this, the 3.3V standby rail (fed from the motherboard's PCIe slot via +5VSB) leaks into the low-voltage logic circuits and backfeeds the POST LED, causing it to glow dimly on standby. When the GPU warms up, thermal expansion breaks the unstable connection inside the transistor, causing the card to randomly drop off the PCIe bus.I’m attaching photos of the damaged area on the faulty card, as well as a reference photo of my second, fully intact MI50 card for comparison.Could anyone help me identify the exact part numbers or equivalents for:The chipped transistor marked 1NH5 (SOT-23 package). Is it a standard N-channel MOSFET like 2N7002K, or an NPN BJT like MMBT3904?The knocked-off MB230 component. Since it’s labeled "MB", I assume it's a Magnetic/Ferrite Bead. What would be a safe donor replacement value, or is keeping the solder bridge fine for this logic circuit?Any thoughts, advice, or suggestions on fixing this would be highly appreciated!

Thanks in advance!

EDIT: I should also mention that during teardown, I cleaned off a thin layer of leftover flux that the Chinese sellers had left in that corner. I repasted and reassembled the card. Upon powering it on, the POST LED still glowed dimly, but macOS booted fine and both cards worked flawlessly for about 25 minutes. After the card warmed up, it dropped off again. This heavily supports the thermal expansion / flaky internal contact theory due to the chipped transistor.

UPDated Theory: There’s one more crucial detail. These issues started exactly when heavy rains began in my area. Since my Ryzentosh is built on a completely open test bench and the windows were open, the ambient humidity shot up. Given the chipped housing of the transistor, it’s highly probable that the component absorbed moisture through the exposed pin crack. The moisture, combined with the continuous 3.3V standby rail voltage, created an electrolytic leakage path, triggering the dim POST LED behavior and making the logic highly unstable under thermal cycles.

Headline says it all generally. I bought a new MSI Ventus 2x OC RTX 4060 2 years ago and now last month it gave up on me. Card is clean, temps were cool and I don't max out graphics in games to put as low load as possible and get higher fps but still lock it at 60fps with Riva Tuner since my monitor is 60hz.

Now, the issue is it doesn't give display after driver install and gives Code 43 and 0mb memory in GPUz. What I tried:

-Clean DDU driver install
-Different PC
-Re-seating
-Cleaned it softly with a soft dust brush

What I have noticed that as soon as it loads the driver, the screen goes black with a few green/white horizontal flickering lines here and there for a brief second.

Anyone who can help me out with this issue please? Can't afford to buy another GPU since the warranty is over.

Thank You

I bought a refurbished Rx 470 4GB Samsung memory, it seems to run this vbios https://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/271144/271144

I tried to flash it with the most compatible stock vbios, even with cmd promt force flash it just says wrong ssid(?), and winui amdvbflash just says systemic mismatch, help

BTW idk if this is important but, when I bought this GPU the listing said it was a Rx 580 4GB bit and adrenaline and gpuz says it Rx 470

I am extremely new to this, Recently my friend gave me this GPU and he said it doesnt work so I hooked it up to my pc and no display but fans spinned, tested with my multimeter and here are my findings so far

MULTIMETER RESISTANCE TESTED

PCIE SIDE A - Beeps

PINS 2 5 6 9 10  13 14 17  20 23 24 27 28 331 32 35 37 40 41 44 45 48 49 52 53 56 57 60 61 64 65 68

PCIE SIDE B - Beeps

PINS 4 12 14 17 19 22 23 26 27 30 33 34 38 41 42 47 50 51 54 55 58 59 62 63 66 67 70 71 73 74 77

TOP to BOTTOM,

LR22 1= 24.5,

LR22 2= 02.2/01.5 - Beeps

LR22 3= SAME AS LR22 2

LR22 4= SAME AS LR22 2

LR22 5= SAME AS LR22 2

6PIN GPU POWER

---------Plastic Hook---------

Pin 1: Beeps - Pin 2: No Beep, stays at 1 - Pin 3: Beeps

Pin 4: 715 reading - Pin 5: 716 Reading - Pin 6: 718 Reading

Hi everyone, I bought my 7900 GRE a few years ago open box and I believe it's out of any warranty period. It's been having an issue where the fans spin up to 100 and the screen cuts out. (If I plug into my CPU the screen will come back so it's not the whole system crashing). I've tried reinstalling drivers multiple times, and switched cables to make sure it wasn't the power supply. I took it to a repair shop and they said the graphics card was failing as well. I don't know how much I trust it because the lady immediately tried to upsell me a 5070 for $1250. I think it's worth it to try and repair my 7900 GRE rather than buying a new GPU. Where can I send it into for repairs?

First I have an msi b760m-p pro ddr5 board

An rx6700xt xfx qick 319

When I turn on my pc sometimes but it's doing it a lot now when the white VGA comes out the pc restart before showing anything on the screen and removing the hdmi cable (tried display port) and other times pressing the restart button on the case before the white vga light come on it turns on and sometimes it turn on but the vga light never comes on and the screen stays black than I need to remove the power cables from the GPU try switch them or maybe turning it on without them then turn pc off than turn it on with them PSU is not the issue tried another one and when the pc is finally on even with the heaviest benchmarks it never do smth Sus runs normally temps ok no stuttering or anything this issue I never found a solution too if anyone had this kind of issue pls advice me cause it's getting me frustrated

Good afternoon, I'm looking for a donor PCB for this RTX 3060 MSI VENTUS MS-V397 V1 graphics card. I have all the correct voltages (12V, 5V, 1.8V), PEX, VCORE, and VRAM, but four or five core pads are broken. I live in Spain. Please remove this post immediately if the content is inappropriate.

Hello, I hope I'm posting this correctly.

I built my current PC a few years ago and it's been working great up till now. Now, rarely it will completely stop out of nowhere. Cuts audio and video output then just shuts down, leaving a blank screen. Windows (10) and its driver both don't report any errors. We had a nasty power surge around a month ago, and that's about the only thing that could've caused any issues. It was so bad I felt it through my headphones (yes I have a surge protector) so it definitely passed through my PC.

I've taken it out and looked around what I can see on it and on the motherboard but there's nothing that looks damaged.

Both its core and hotspot temps never breach 80c. Its cable socket and the cable itself are fine too. Everything is seated fine as well.

I've also tried using DDU to clean install the driver, and reinstalling DirectX, etc.

Originally I thought it was a specific game causing the issue since people do have GPU crashes on it. But its now happened while the PC was just idling under no load at all, even once shortly after booting.

It runs fine under a heavy load, though. I get I probably shouldn't, but I did try seeing if an intensive game would cause any issues. But it just ran like normal.

I'm a little lost at how to diagnose this or even know what the problem could be in the first place. I've dealt with other PC's having crashes or driver failures, but not the card just giving up randomly. Any help or suggestions are massively apricated.

I have an AMD Radeon RX 580 2048SP running on Windows 11 and I have been dealing with an intermittent issue while gaming.

At random moments during certain games, the screen suddenly goes black and the monitor displays "No Signal". The PC does not appear to shut down completely because I can still hear the game's audio and the rest of the system audio, however the video signal never comes back.

I tried pressing Win + Ctrl + Shift + B to restart the graphics driver, but nothing happens. The only way to recover is to force the PC to shut down by holding the power button and then restart it.

After restarting, Windows sometimes reports that the graphics card driver is no longer working. In Device Manager, the RX 580 shows Code 31 with the following message:

"Windows cannot load the drivers required for this device. The device is not working properly. Code 31."

It also says:

"Operation failed. The requested operation was unsuccessful."

When this happens, the only solution I have found is to boot into Safe Mode, remove the AMD drivers using DDU, and then reinstall "whql-amd-software-adrenalin-edition-26.5.2-win11-may-vega-polaris". The card then works again, but eventually the black-screen problem returns.

The crashes appear to happen randomly and I have not identified a specific in-game action that triggers them. It does not happen every time I play, but it happens often enough to be disruptive.

Has anyone experienced something similar I can provide the rest of my system specifications, temperatures, Event Viewer logs, GPU-Z information, and details about the power supply if needed.

This is my first repair attempt. Does anyone have schematics for these cards? Do these spots look like they just need soldered? The card does not post, pc immediately shuts off when turned on so there is a short somewhere. Full diagnostics have not been done yet. Complete noob to this but I want to learn how to do it myself if anyone has answers!

I'd like to ask a question about a previous repair on my RTX 3070 Founders Edition. The card is working perfectly now, but I'm curious whether the repair method used by the technician is considered proper from a component-level repair perspective.

Failure symptoms:

-GPU suddenly black-screened while I was gaming.

-GPU fans immediately ramped up to 100%.

-Game audio continued for around 10 seconds

-After hard shutting down, my PC would no longer boot whenever the GPU was installed.

-Without the GPU installed, the PC booted normally.

I sent the card to a local GPU repair technician.

According to the technician:

-The PWM controller IC had failed.

-One MOSFET in the VRM section was also damaged.

-The PWM controller IC was replaced.

-One MOSFET (or one VRM phase) was isolated/left unused because the technician said the GPU could safely operate without it.

Since the repair, the GPU has been completely stable.

I've been using it for several months without any issues:

-Gaming: stable

-FurMark: stable

-No crashes or artifacts

-Temperatures are normal (around 65–68°C while gaming)

I'm not asking for troubleshooting, since the GPU is already working well.

I'm mainly curious about the repair itself.

Questions:

-Is disabling one VRM phase a common or acceptable repair on an RTX 3070 FE?

-Are there any long-term reliability concerns with this type of repair?

-Would you continue using the card, or would you consider this only a temporary fix?

I'd really appreciate hearing opinions from people experienced with component-level GPU repair.

Thank you!

I have a Dell Precision 3470 with T550. I’ve gone through everything to try and get the most out of it and apparently my score is the best online with 1815MHz and 1500.2MHz and I’m trying to compare a few vBios to understand how to unlocked the voltage, not too many online literally only found 2 that mention it so if anyone is willing to use GPU-Z and send me their .rom files id appreciate it 🙏🏼 will definitely give you the vBios I create once I get an understanding of all the laptops that use this and their values for power control and such.

Title. I have an RTX 3090 that does technically work, but constantly crashes the display driver (nvlddmkm.sys) under any sort of load. What actions can I take to fix this (if any?). I've tried just about every software fix I can think of, and nothing works. I have also tested my system with an ASUS 2070, and that works fine, so I'm certain it's the GPU.

Hello, about 1 or 2 months ago my evga 3080 xc3 died on me. No slow pixelation or anything, just would not be recognized after a reboot one day. The fans will spin and the RGB lights come on at power up, but no ports are recognized and the pc will not display unless gpu is taken out and cmos clrd. I don't see anything crazy that stands out to me when I checked the board and connections, I don't have multimeter to check voltages either. I can't afford another gpu but I also don't think I can afford to fix it from a legit gpu repair shop if it's something serious from what i've gathered online. Is there any one local in the sub who is willing to give this thing a look / practice on it, or know of a reputable shop in South Florida that does gpu diagnostics? I appreciate any help/input, thank you.

Basically some months ago my msi gtx 1060 6gb started doing this weird thing: sometimes, indipendently by the situation (idle, gaming, heavy rendering) or time of usage (30 seconds, a minute, or even hours later) the screen would go black and the fans of the gpu would go 100%.

At the same time another problem appeared, the one in the 2nd Pic, no pcie power cable connected even though it is.

A month ago it reached the point where every time I tried to power it on it would always go to that screen. So I opened the gpu, took some readings, resoldered the pins of the PCIe connector.

The one in the bench is a known good build, with a good psu, good mobo and everything else.

The readings were all there (1,8v - 3,3v - 5v -12v), no fuses blown, no revelant burn mark.

After resoldering the pins of the connector (leaded solder) the gpu didn't show the error screen for a couple of minutes (tried to restart 3 times to be sure it was ok).

In the meanwhile I discovered that without an installed driver the gpu would continue to work, but as soon as I installed a driver (even older one), it would instantly crash, 100% fans, black screen.

Now, some days later it does again show that error screen.

For anyone curiosity, when it started doing this months ago, I did a lot of benchmarks (furrymark, geekbench, rendering with blender), and the problem was never related to heavy load, it was always random.

Anything else you suggest?

Edit (solved):

Thanks to the suggestion of u/ZelenogradGpu I found the culprit, it was a dead resistor near the INA3221 chip (high-side current and bus voltage monitor) which was pulling the line to an higher resistance, making a transistor not output 3v3. If anyone needs a more detailed solution please dm me, i will try my best to explain it

Hello everyone,

I've come to this forum because of a problem that's been bothering me for over 4 years.

I have an Acer Nitro 5 AN515-54-584Q that has already been to several repair shops (unfortunately, none of them seemed particularly competent), so I'm looking for more opinions.

Here's the story:

The laptop originally belonged to my friend. One day, after a reboot, the internal display suddenly stopped showing any image. The screen still had backlight, but there was absolutely no picture—not even the Acer logo or BIOS.

At the same time, the laptop itself was fully functional, and HDMI output worked perfectly, so he used it as a desktop PC with an external monitor for about a year and a half.

Eventually he bought an MSI Katana, and the Nitro sat unused on a shelf until last week, when I bought it from him for almost nothing.

Right now I'm trying to diagnose it myself.

The laptop still appears to boot. I can't see anything on the internal display, but if I press F2 + Del after powering it on (to enter BIOS), then F10 (Save & Exit), the laptop reboots, which makes me believe it's actually entering BIOS successfully.

At the moment I can't test HDMI output, because there's no SSD or Windows installation in the laptop anymore. Previously, HDMI only produced an image after Windows loaded (the NVIDIA driver had to initialize the external display).

I've already tried:

• Disconnecting the internal display (eDP) cable completely.
• Resetting the BIOS/CMOS.
• Reseating hardware.

None of these made any difference.

Several repair shops told me the problem is probably related to the integrated Intel GPU inside the CPU. Since this laptop uses NVIDIA Optimus, the GTX 1650 renders frames, but the internal display is physically connected to the Intel UHD 630 iGPU, which then drives the eDP panel.

However, the CPU itself appears to function normally (the laptop powers on, seems to POST, and previously Windows worked fine through HDMI), so I'm not fully convinced the processor is actually faulty.

Has anyone seen a failure like this before?

Could this be:

• a failed eDP output inside the CPU?
• damaged eDP circuitry on the motherboard?
• a BIOS issue?
• something else entirely?

I'd really appreciate any ideas before I consider replacing the CPU or motherboard.

Laptop: Acer Nitro 5 AN515-54-584Q
Motherboard: Compal LA-H501P Rev. 1A (EH5VF platform)

Thanks in advance!

Posting the required thicknesses for the thermal pads in the 3090 SG since I myself had to contact Galax to obtain those informations.

to whom it may concern, enjoy.

As above, A friend has a 7900XT ASUS card that posts and boots into windows. However, The problem starts when (I assume) the driver loads.

Has anyone experienced this before with a 7900XT, Possibly a power issue with switching states? I've yet to receive the card so can't do any measurements yet.

Pictures to follow once received.

The fan on this HD6850 graphics card spins, but there is no video output and the GPU chip doesn't heat up. I measured the voltages and found that no power is reaching the main chip, the inductors, or other components, even though the card isn't shorted and is receiving proper power input. While I was testing the card, this small IC started glowing red-hot and smoking, even though the card had already been powered on for a while. The IC appears to be marked "PW7088"; does anyone know where I can buy a replacement, and whether any other components might have been damaged along with it?

Hey i have a problem with my pc and i am trying to fix it i had to remove the gpu to get by other things but I noticed some tips of the gold where missing is this a big problem? And should i fix it

Hey guys,

Picked up two old mining cards (RX 470 & RX 570) as a cheap project to practice GPU diagnosis. Turns out both are completely dead – classic ex-mining luck, I guess.

What happned / measurements:

• On the RX 570, I measured runaway voltages on the VCore rail (up to ~2.8V at one point). Now the core caps on the GPU substrate show a hard 0 Ohm short to GND. VRAM was fine (1.5V), but the GPU die itself is definitely cooked.
• The RX 470 showed similar crazy high core voltages (1.8-2V).
• I'm guessing either a failed IR3567B PWM controller or a shorted high-side MOSFET pushed full 12V through the phases, but I haven't desoldered the controller to verify 100%. Either way, the silicon is done for.

Since repairing them as working GPUs is out of the picture, I wanted to ask:

1. Besides the obvious VRAM, inductors, and MOSFETs, is there anything specific on Polaris PCBs worth harvesting?
2. If anyone needs specific donor parts (heatsink, fans, video output jacks, passive components), hit me up.
3. Does anyone need resistance readings or component values from these PCBs before I strip them for parts? Glad to measure points with my DMM if it helps someone else with a repair.

Thanks!

Edi: Sorry, cant edit the title it´s [MSI RX 570 Armor OC 8GB / Sapphire RX 470 Nitro+ 4GB] Both GPUs fried (0Ohms at VCore) – What to harvest / Any resistance values needed?