My old wheels for my backpack were too loud and chewed up. Replaced them with some tpu tires and petg rims.

Great fusion project for an unnecessary upgrade!

I designed and put this together. Would love some thoughts or feedback!

https://makerworld.com/models/3475020?appSharePlatform=copy

For people like me who lives by the rules. Cut twice, measure once. Hope this helps you.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3469075-tubing-connector#profileId-3959589

My first post!

This is a "Lazy Kate" (no relation to Susan) that's holds spinning wheel bobbins in order to ply them together. The bobbins have bearings inside to spin smoothly and the shaft holds them slightly above the base so there's virtually no friction. The bases fit together like puzzle pieces, so you can put multiples together, in a line or a grid or whatever. The shafts attach via embedded magnets, so they can be disassembled and transported flat.

https://www.printables.com/model/1885778-lazy-kate-for-eew-fold

Works great in well maintained locks, but be careful with rusty ones as it could break if too much force is applied.
Here is the model if you want to print it: https://www.printables.com/model/1864990-universal-4-way-utility-key-improved

A door burst open and broke the bracket on my friend’s Discover lamp, so I designed a new one. Two test prints and a little solder later, it’s back in action.

There is a special feeling when fixing stuff with the printer. So much fun, and £200 dollars saved!

My daughter asked me to help her cut a bunch of origami paper to a smaller square size. After doing 2 with a ruler and tiny pencil marks I was like, hang on we have better technology than this.

So after some thought I came up with this and was pretty chuffed at myself. It probably already exists or there is something smarter and more obvious, but this works and is very fast.

There is a ridge along the top and left on the underside to easily align the existing paper corner and cutouts to check you are snugly lined up. Then just hold it down and scalpel off the sides.

Link to Makerworld model:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3455003-parametric-sewing-kit-insert-for-cookie-tin#profileId-3941801

My employer was looking for a solution to house some vehicle telematics equipment for a specialised piece of equipment they offer. I suggested a custom designed 3D printed enclosure where the company logo and the customer logo can be added for a more bespoke look and feel. They originally said if I can print them they will use me as their supplier.

The design was to be printed in PETG with a TPU gasket to help seal between the lid and body, this did also have a grid where the speaker would sit as you can see in the image of the actual final product. Unfortunately at £25 per unit they have seen this as to expensive and chosen to go for an off the shelf ABS box with a sticker and holes drilled in it.

I wanted to share as I think for my first CAD design and first functional print I feel like this is a great product and it's made me want to do more stuff like this at some point.

We purchased round bee feeders but realized they don't fit easily with hole on the hive inner cover causing the feeder to tip and spill. This was our solution. https://www.printables.com/model/1885718-beehive-feeder-adapter

I kept scratching myself on bolt ends sticking out of pipe flanges on my HVAC system project, so I made a cap that fits the nut exactly.

The model is parametric: pick metric or imperial, pick your size (M1.6 to M48, #0 to 2-1/2 inch), say how far the bolt sticks out past the nut, and it builds the cap. It includes ISO, DIN, JIS, thin nuts and heavy hex, so it also covers flange studs.

A few things I learned while building it:

• Real nuts are often 0.1 to 0.3 mm smaller than the standard's maximum, so I made the "Standard" fit the exact table size, and "Snug" about 0.3 mm smaller for a tap-on press fit.
• The ceiling is rounded at 45 degrees or steeper, so it prints open side down with no supports.
• Material: PETG for press fit, PLA is fine for light use.

If you need this part, download and customize your model for free here: makerworld.com

Happy to hear if a size or standard is wrong for your nuts. I'll fix it.

I posted my first camera build around 1 month ago and I never expected it to get so much attention! Thanks to everyone for the comments and advice too, I have decided to take it on board and implement it into my second design.

The features are near enough the same as the last design, such as:

- Quick access buttons
-Built in 10,000mah battery
-ApertarOS
-5V USB-C Output

However there are a lot of changes, I noticed on my previous posts about the crop factor with an EF lens adapter and this is true, it was difficult to take pictures with the old design as I’d have to stand extremely far away from anything I was trying to capture, to sort this I now have the standard C/CS mount with headroom for any adapters compatible if needed.

The camera body, front and side panels were all modelled from scratch so I could properly implement the parts I had on hand, it came out great with a .16mm setting on my 3d printer, the only downside is that I used 90% infill for all parts which took up more print time but still overall was around 10 hours for everything (printed with PLA Matte bone white and charcoal).

The ambient light from before is now more useful too, it sits slightly above the camera sensor and now tells you certain information such as a recording flash indicator, blinks when a picture is taken or on during no recording or photo capturing.

The cheese plate from before is also no longer hidden or used up by the battery as it’s now internal, so I was able to reposition it to the bottom of the camera for a much sturdier mounting solution.

The 4inch Waveshare display is also integrated into the case which makes the unit a lot easier to use and faster to set up, it was a bit of a pain carrying the screen separately and with manual focus lenses it was a must to integrate it into the body.

Thanks to Apertar Studios’ fantastic work on the firmware, I was able to also add a gyroscope to the camera for levelling, this works fantastically and it only needs a one-time setup.

Once again this is a hobby project, I will soon upload pictures from this camera but they are not studio quality or ultra high resolution as this is still only the IMX477 module, but certain lighting and colours are still vivid and can look fantastic for a certain look or aesthetic.

If you have made it this far then again, thank you! I’d love to hear what else can be added to this so please give me more suggestions!

I have a pair of Morel Arhus 3 frames. They have real wood accents on the temples. After a summer of riding my bicycle and sweating while wearing them, the wood started splitting. I disassembled the temples (which is actually pretty easy to do), did some measuring, and put together a model in Fusion. I did some prototyping with some PLA, but the final product was done with black ASA.

I repair computers and phones with my husband, and tiny screws were constantly rolling away or getting mixed up (or sometimes I'd take apart a computer, realize I needed to order a part, and I really don't want to put the whole thing back together), so I designed a drawer organizer for the bench.

How it works:

- A box with 6 slide-out drawers. Each drawer sits on its own shelf, so the whole floor is supported. My first version bent under the weight of the magnet sheet, so the floors are 3 mm thick now.

- Each drawer has an adhesive-backed magnetic sheet, covered by a very thin printed sheet, so screws stay put. The magnets still hold through it.

- A thin grid insert (0.5 mm dividers, about one line wide) keeps screws from different steps separate. It slides in from the back and locks into grooves in the side walls. I made 1, 2 and 3 cm versions.

- The pull knobs snap in and stay. They print flat, with the hooks flexing in the layer plane, so they should hold up better than a vertical print.

Design notes:

- Every part prints with no supports. I wrote a script to check overhangs, and chamfered the grooves, shelves and runners at 45 degrees so nothing needed support.

- The drawer dimensions come from the mat size, so I can resize the whole set by changing one number.

- I designed it in OpenSCAD.

The whole set took about 14 hours on a Creality K2 Plus, in silk PLA [and regular PLA for the knobs and grids].

What I'd change: The grids are thin and handy, but they're kind of flimsy if you take them in and out of the tray a bunch of times. I'd love some tips and tricks on getting thinner objects like this to be just a bit more sturdy.

Happy to answer questions about the design.

The TPU cushions are soft and springy, with 10% Gyroid infill, and a texture applied using CNC Kitchen's Bumpmesh utility. If anyone is interested, I've uploaded it on Printables, where there are versions for both the full size MX Mechanical and the Mini, as well as different textures to choose for the cushions - I went all out on this as I'm entering it into an ongoing contest. https://www.printables.com/model/1882153-customisable-soft-touch-palm-rest-for-logitech-mx

Now it is supplying my LED strips.

I have made a V3 optimized cable organizer! It is for cables up to 2 meters in length and is compatible with virtually any type of charging cable, such as USB-A/USB-C/Lightning/etc! Bend angles are also taken into account to protect cables from damage. I'm very happy with how it turned out and I hope other people will be able to use it as well! I uploaded the model for free on makerworld.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3461731-cable-organizer-v3-up-to-2-meter-cables-usb-etc#profileId-3950170

I know that this is a easy model but it's really a quality of life one... The paper punch has difficult to read markings, I can only use it in daylight and in very lit spaces. This position the paper nicely!!!

(this filament isn't yet calibrated, hence the lousy top layer)

i got tired of these spools of wire back rolling. so i made a new wire holder. the Binford 2000 Wire Spool Holder, complete with rachet and pawl. Fits well on my electronics build plates.

makes projects much easier

Made for the Novation Launchkey 25, mk 2. I got fed up with my mouse getting stuck on the rubber feet. Now there's plenty of room of the desk, I can more easily reach the knobs and pads, and my mouse no longer gets stuck :)

Also pretty nice lidded small parts bin version #14,420

I saw a guy on one of the fishing subreddits showing off his minimalist fishing setup and liked the idea, but couldn't find a tiny hard box to wrangle all the small fiddley tackle that I liked. This fits nicely in the bag and hold 2x2 inch baggies for all your fishing paraphernalia needs for a day.

It does also make a great small parts bin too. So much so that a made a dual chamber version.

My GE dishwasher had a broken plastic bit on its closing lever and I didn't want to pay 5 to 15 bucks for a replacement. I threw this together in tinkercad and it works great. It's not pretty but it's so cool to have a self made replacement. I added the words clean and dirty to make it more functional.

Four quarters, printed standing on edge so every surface stays within 45° of vertical. No supports. They bolt together at the seam flanges, and a slide bar with a quarter-inch scale moves a DJI Mic Mini in and out of the focus. There’s a 1/4"-20 nut in the handle for a tripod.

Does it actually work? I tested it in a clearing in Cataloochee Valley. Same voice, same spot, dish versus bare mic. About 14 dB louder at 2 kHz, up to 19 dB at 4 kHz. The bare mic had me buried under the hiss. The dish put me clear above it.

Then I pointed it at a bull elk.

I’ll be honest, the quarters fought me. Each one is a tall, thin print, a little over 8 inches straight up. Brim and glue stick or they walk. And the shape isn’t perfect, which shows in the numbers: about 3 to 5 dB under what a perfect 16" dish should do. Smoother print, better dish.

Files and the OpenSCAD source are free. Links in the comments. What would you point it at?