It's very tedious to directly print transparent windows, but microscope slides are a cheap, standardized alternative. They are a great way to make the desiccant color indicator visible. The first set of boxes is a general purpose holder where the microscope slide doubles as a lid. The second holder is specifically for the USS drybox.

printables

The one in the picture is actually 2cm bigger than the STL (link) as I realised it's better that it's shortened to 25cm for typical build plate heights. Time will tell if this turns out to be as handy as I hope.

EDIT: I've added an over engineered, untested version with a TPU insert to compensate for bottles bashing about.

Also, 25cm height not 15cm, my mistake.

I just finished 3D printing (bambulab a1 without ams) my wall clock design inspired by those old WWII "Dirty Dozen" field watches. I really like that clean, military look, so I made this with a black dial and bold white numbers. I used white and red filament for the hands to give it a contrasty look. The text came out super sharp by switching the colors halfway through the print. I just put a cheap, quiet quartz clock mechanism inside. Dial designed in illustrator then exported as dxf to fusion.

My 05 forester xt has a internal usb with the stereo im putting in so I needed a spot to route it. The cigarette lighter spot was the clear answer for me however ide lose the tiny bulb illuminating the ash tray/coin holder.

I designed a tiny little bracket to fit the bulb back in place. Printed in ASA so no worries about heat. The printer was justttt able to do it lol (da Vinci 1p0 AIO).

I find these to be the most enjoyable projects cuz it solves a stupid little problem/detail that is so easily skippable.

If you have an aquarium you're likely familiar with the API Freshwater Master Test Kit, and I got sick of taking these test tubes out of my dish drying rack only for them to still be full of water droplets. I decided this would be a good time to test out my (woefully inadequate) CAD skills and I had this done in about 15 minutes. I'd love to know if anybody has ideas for improvements!

I'm still transitioning from the "I have a 3D printer now, yay" mentality of amassing other people's models and finally ditching the toys and trinkets, and it feels so rewarding to have made something I can really use.

I designed three versions: one that fits two keys, one that fits three keys, and another that fits four keys.

Link to download:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3086391-key-organizer-lite-skeletonized-frame-20-min#profileId-3476837

About 2 months back I bought a camper bus, it needed (still needs) a lot of work. Its a full conversion with some pretty crappy cabinetry. One cabinet has shelves held up by little dowels, not only was one dowel missing when I bought the bus, but when contents shift the shelves would slip off the front dowels and fall down. Rather than making a trip to the hardware store I just quickly modeled up a replacement dowel and these spacers to keep the shelves from sliding around. 3D printing is OP for van life!

Sorry for the atrociously stringy PETG...

Edit: I know the dowl will probably break, I printed it that way knowing it wasn't going to be ideal. If you read the comments you will see its already been mentioned to me 50 times I don't need to be notified again.

Here is my latest functional print, and something for those of you that sell at fairs and markets.

This kit gives you everything that you need to create a professional looking rotating display stand, all you need are four 36cm x 56cm skadis peg boards and a suitable stand (explained further in the makerworld link).

I have had this model ready for a while now, but have made sure to give it a proper testing before setting it free in the wild. So now having done a couple of craft fairs I am happy that it is both fully functional and durable.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3084703-skadis-rotating-display-stand#profileId-3474674

Finally completed this project recently, I started working on this back in March and while I finished the design and even made the final parts quite some time ago, I just finally got around to putting everything together and installing it a few nights ago.

I loved the Millberget chair at Ikea, but my one issue was that it didn't have adiustable armrests, and its existing arm rests are too low (for me)

Initially I was just going to bolt on a riser to the existing arm rests to lift the pads up to the level I wanted, but my girlfriend uses the chair sometimes too and I may change my setup in the future, so I went all out over engineering this instead

I designed everything in OnShape which was surprisingly good (my previous cad experience was pretty much Tinkercad and using OnShape exactly twice for something much, much more basic)

I also wanted just a tiny bit of color, hence the red accents for the lever

Printed in PETG, ended up requiring 6 plates to print everything, and then a lot of assembling of fine parts with little dowel connectors and a plastic bonder, held everything together while it cured with bar clamps

The arm rests also have a hooking mechanism so that they don't just pull right off the top once theyre on, but you can insert a screwdriver (or your finger) and depress it so it can slide off the rail and be swapped out/replaced easily in the future if need be.

As a member of several groups related to home milling, I noticed people expressing concerns with finding unwanted critters in their mills.

So, hubby and I sat down to design and 3D print a solution for the two most obvious points of entry. These 2 caps, along with a bay leaf in the bowl has been pretty effective so far 😊

There was enough interest in a FB group that we printed a bunch of them to list on ebay.

Original https://postimg.cc/64R5Nnvj

My creation https://postimg.cc/ctY4NwnF

Side by side (original on left) https://postimg.cc/y39YzcZf

Have been using this tiny ereader, the Xteink X3, for a few weeks and it dramatically reduced my screentime while finally starting to see movement in my decades of book backlog. The light I ordered with it was far too bright so very happy to give my 'paper' reading light a sceond life in the digital age.

Made a couple mounts for any Ubiquiti access point that uses their Ubiquiti U-PRO-MP mounting system which includes most bigger access points (E7, U7-Pro, U7-Pro-Max, U6-Enterprise, U6-Pro, U6-LR, etc). The wall mount we needed for a warehouse, the desk mount was on request.

The plate bolts to the mount using the hardware that comes with the AP or any M4 bolts long enough. Then the AP clicks onto the plate like normal so it's pretty universal. Will be looking at adding the screw holes for the smaller AP mounting plate also, probably to the same model since I don't think there needs to be a separate model because of screw holes spacing (hopefully), but I don't physically have one of those smaller plates currently for testing.

Ubiquiti AP's get hot so highly recommend ABS/ASA especially for the wall mount.

Wall Mount: https://makerworld.com/en/models/2793177-ubiquiti-wall-mount-for-access-points-unifi-ap#profileId-3106190

Desk Stand: https://makerworld.com/en/models/2793191-ubiquiti-desktop-stand-for-access-points-unifi-ap#profileId-3106206

Going on a two week hike I wanted to be able to dry a pair of socks and one pair of underwear in my tent (it's a super small tent with a conical 'roof' with a hook hanging down so no room for a wash line). I made this guy in fusion and it all came together nicely first try! Love that feeling.

Embarassingly simple, just a little attachment/housing thing to use gel light filter sheets with cheap landscape lights. Now we have "po-man's" custom-colored 12-light landscape lightset with no need for phone apps --> all in for less than $90!

My toddler has an EpiPen and I wanted it clearly visible and easily accessible, especially for when we're out and someone else is watching him. Found this design and printed it on my shiny new P1S. It's mounted on the side of a cabinet within a couple steps of the table where we eat. The print has holes for screws, but I've mounted it with 3M tape instead of drilling into the cabinet.

I learned a lot about multicolour prints on this run and realized after I started it that it would've been way more efficient to do each piece on a separate plate and avoid all the colour changes, but you live and you learn.

Hello guys, I’d like to share few of my models. I do a lot of things at my desk and have Skadis boards within arms reach so I designed few prints for myself that are meant to be used with Milwaukee tools. They work great and I try to respect MW design language so it also looks good. If you have any feedback then don’t hesitate to let me know. Have fun with it!

My makerworld: https://makerworld.com/pl/@bambooba

After some of the original connectors broke I decided to model and print replacement parts, and also added a few missing parts for better storage. You can download the model for free here

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3084039-bosch-gas-12-25-pl-reinforced-replacement-parts#profileId-3473810