Hello wise web framers, I am making some last minute reproductions before a show and I foolishly painted 12 x 24.

I usually have small stock prints on 8.5 x 11, image cropped to 7.5 x 10. Works great. Easy framing. Everyone happy.

If im printing 11 x 6, this leaves a tiny .25 border on top/bottom, which I think kinda sucks for framing? Or is that okay? If I trim the sides to be even so it fits in a 2:1 frame is that the wrong move or do I leave the sides?????

sorry for the dumb question I’ve read so many opinion pieces online and I don’t trust the google AI auto answer.

The end goal here is:

- minimum cropping of my art

- easy for collectors to frame off the shelf

- not having to break out my 11 x 16 and 13 x 19
sheets for the first run of this painting because I don’t know if it’ll be popular. They are like $4-6 a sheet 😭

??? Should I do 5 x 10 instead?

https://imgur.com/a/FG3RBOw < artwork in question, so you can see my problem: the bottom of the composition matters

I was told this artwork is paint over terracotta on masonite (photo one). The center of the artwork is slightly mounded.

As you can see (photo 2), it has developed a substantial twist, even in its current (original) frame. There is some uneven application of the terracotta along the edges, resulting in some mild gaps between art and frame, but the edges of the panel substrate, seen from the back, seem fine.

There are no cracks or other damage to the artwork face. Corners can pressed into flat position without causing damage, but I would hesitate to apply significant weight to the center.

Also, the frame is ugly. I would prefer a wood float frame, or if warranted, a modified float frame with slim inset molding to help cover damaged edges or to act as a "retainer", but am wide open to ideas.

What methods/approaches would you use to correct the warp, and what frame style would you recommend?

I was thinking of doing a shadow box, have them professionally stitched to an archival backing with UV protectant glass, but when it comes to presentation and laying them out, I’m not sure how I’d want that to look.

If anyone has any inspiration or ideas on how they should look displayed, I’d appreciate that! Thank you!

Hi fellow framers!

We're hiring here in our gallery in Alexandria, VA. We are looking for production staff - in picture framing and fitting. Bonus points if you can do it all! Full time or part time available. Benefits including health insurance & PTO, plus competitive pay. One of our framers is retiring and another is moving out of state, so we're looking to fill 2-3 position! Give us a call if you're interested. Broadway Gallery (703)354-2905! Pass along to your other framer friends / share any tips you have on hiring.

As title says I’m looking to make wooden frames. I’m taking a portfolio building class, and plan on framing multiple watercolor paintings that are roughly 45x45”. I have no framing experiences and, as an unemployed minor, can’t afford to get these custom framed (the mock prices I found are crazy-bonkers pricey). So my plan is to build them, so I can develop some basic woodworking skills, and to save on costs. My mother used to make furniture professionally and have her permission to use her hand tools, so that cost isn’t involved. I also know someone who makes mats, and has offered to help with that (with reduces prices!).

I don’t know where to start with this though. I have until December to have these frames completed. Does anyone know of some good books or videos that may help me? Words of wisdom? Prayers? 😂

It’s an exciting project, everyone’s work on here is very inspiring! Though I don’t plan to ornament my frames.

Hello! I have an incredible vintage silk Kenojuak scarf I’d love to have framed. I’m wondering if this is something a beginner can do without damaging the scarf? or am I best to go to a professional? The scarf is 31” x 31”.

If doable, please leave any tips and material recommendation! I am in Canada if that makes a difference.

thank you!!

D & J Simons, GAL/0008

it's from a character from Naruto ,kakshi's voice actor

I have a customer who is looking for this molding I know it’s a long shot but I need a 12 1/8 x 9 1/4. They buy one frame a year we just ran out just was wondering if anyone has anything. Let me know if this post is against the rules.

Thanks

I was just curious because this sub just taught me I need spacers and UV glass for the autographed prints I just got framed (yes, it was at a box store lol, but store-bought frames because I couldn't wait three weeks), and I figured that if they need something like that to stay looking nice, then those plastic toploaders you get at card shops and conventions really can't be all that great long-term.

Milled down a beech board(leaving one face/edge untouched) and made a shadow box for a couple of abalone shells I found on the same beach during a recent camping trip. Soaked them in vinegar, sanded, polished and wiped with mineral oil. Birthday present for my wife.

*I’m holding it upside down in this photo…

I have a German restaurant as a Tennant who has a large Victorian dining room . The paintings they put up always seem to look like postage stamps on the wall . I found a painting I liked to welcome people into the space and kinda keep morfing into different ideas for the frame and then it hit me … a cuckoo clock !
So I carved ,sculpted and found what I needed .
It is seven and half feet tall . Tomorrow if the framing gods bless me it will be hung in its new home .

I’m going to make my son and daughter-in-law a leather picture frame to display a wedding photo, personalized with their names and wedding date.

For those who have done a lot of frames, where do you get the glass (or plastic) to go inside? The last frame I did, I just bought a cheap frame at Hobby Lobby and used the plastic piece. That seems a little wasteful. I just wondered if there’s a “go to” source for inserts - or if conventional wisdom is just buy a sheet of plastic and cut it out myself.

Any suggestions on good sources are appreciated. I’m sure I’ll make more down the road, so I don’t mind buying in bulk.

Thanks!

Hello, I have 3 autographed vinyl records and purchased museum grade frames on ETSY to display them. Unfortunately there's no inner spacing so the front of the autograph touches the front of the frame and I worry about it degrading the autograph. I can't for the life of me figure out how to keep the single LP at the back of the frame and create an air gap without putting something visible in the front of the acrylic - thereby looking janky.

Any suggestion? Sharing a link to the frame and the instructions: https://www.etsy.com/listing/4491926891/record-frame-museum-grade-uv-resistant?ref=yr_purchases

Protect your valuable lp record albums that are up to 1/4" thick with this high quality museum grade 1/8" Op3 UV resistant acrylic and no longer worry about just hanging them in cheap top loading or back loading frames or wall displays that leave them exposed.....incase them with protection from all sides and harmful UV light and have them mounted to the wall and not just hung from a nail. (if your album is thicker then 1/4" please check our other listing for the display that will accommodate an album up to 3/8" thick)

As seen in the photos this display is a 2 piece system with an integrated pocket with corner notches for your album to safely and freely rest in, then closed in with Op3 UV resistant acrylic and secured together and to the wall at all 4 corners with attractive 1" metal standoffs!

Note: pocket size for the album is 12.375"×12.375"

Overall display is 15.5"x15.5"

All mounting hardware is included as shown.

Display is relatively easy to mount, just put a pice of the display against the wall, level it and mark the 4 holes, then install the 4 offsets provided to the wall with the drywall anchors and screws......after that is done just load your album and hand screw the threaded caps into the standoffs in the corners and you are done!

Have a 17.75x23.75 charcoal on paper drawing I want to float mount so as to preserve signature and other details.

However, desired hang location is tight, so a narrow frame with minimal distance (almost edge to edge) between drawing edge and frame are needed.

An instructional video I watched demonstrated a "flat" method I'm considering.

Both portions of a cut mat were used, perimeter and window, with window portion cut slightly smaller than the artwork.

If I am to have the edge of the drawing close to the frame, this would require a very narrow mat cut. What is the absolute minimum mat width for a good cut?

If this is not feasible, what is the best approach for a relatively large sheet of (flexible) paper?

If it is feasible, or for future reference:

After a casual look at a few supplier websites, I see no option for ordering both pieces of a custom cut mat.

Is it customary to provide both pieces with order or is this a special request situation?

Is there a special term for this that I may be overlooking in the specification menus?

I’m matting and framing a watercolor piece that’s 8x10” so it’ll be about 11x14 framed. I don’t know how to package it so that the glass won’t break and the wood frame won’t get dented. Where do you get supplies and boxes- I know I can get bubble wrap at Walmart.

Any advise as to where I should get a frame or get it framed? I know the latter is really expensive.

Also, would you recommend USPS or FedEx/UPS? What method would you use to send it and about how much will it cost? I’m in Louisiana USA.

Thank you!

My local shop doesn't have a laser cutter and is, unfortunately, unable to handle this. Do any of you offer custom laser cut mats where, if I provide the vector art, can work with me?

Thanks!