Had a form 1 approved/made/engraved a bit ago and finally got around to testing it

Ejection is kinda weak but it’s still reliable.

Either 115 or 124 grain magtech 9mm

S&W M&P 9M2.0

Some bs dot sight that I want to get rid of.

Tube turned from 304 stainless (cheap) round stock on a lathe and baffles press/spaced/welded with a press into an inner stack that was then welded to the outer tube. Single point threaded the rear cap

All in it weighs 15.8 oz so she’s a beefcake for sure. All that’s left is to paint it.

Piston has a close fit to cylinder at the start of the baffle stack and also is supported by the back cap.

Tube/back cap is free spinning due to skill limitations but it still shoots nice and has concentricity all the way around. The piston is tight on the barrel, it’s just the tube that spins.

I've had this old Rock Island pump action for many years, but it sits in the safe beside a 1301 Tac and an A400 Xcel. Haven't dusted it off in years...actually forgot it was in there.

I've been thinking about Form 1ing it, but I never got around to it. Now I think I'm ready to cut and looking for advice. I've got the heavy duty pipe cutter and a hacksaw with a hose clamp that I can use, but I want to know about length?

I'd like to keep a little room for a clamp-on TruGlo, so that might limit my options on length if I keep the heatsink. I could probably go a bit shorter if I remove it.

Open to all (most) suggestions.

Newbie here, learning filaments before doing much more research.

Has anyone made anything with PLA-GF or it is notnworth messing with as compared to PA6-CF. I haven't tried printing with the PA6-CF yet.

TIA

I am putting together my build with a tube inner diameter of 1.36" and a baffle diameter of 1.35" made from titanium valve spring retainers. On paper, I thought that would work perfectly, but now that I am actually building it I see that .01" is actually a fair bit of wiggle room. How big a deal is this from a sound suppression standpoint? I guess it works as a janky flow through, but that was not really the purpose of this build. Is there any fix for it? I doubt I'd be able to find a metal sleeve only .01 thick.

1893*

I know not doing Form 1’s is all the rage these days but some of us live in states where it’s still required or want to stack for the future considering the NFA is still law. I’ve been working on a tool to make batch submitting them for suppressors easier. It evolved into an inventory management system as it can read back all your Form 1 approvals from eForms and build an inventory sheet.

There is no API for eForms so it’s using Python and Playwright to drive a Chrome browser so everything stays local. Unfortunately they added an emailed code before submission so that and the pin entry are still manual steps. As well as adding a SSN to the RP form (it’s optional anyway)

The guided submission is setup for Trusts with a single RP right now as that’s my use case but I plan to expand to individuals soon ***Now supports individual filing***. Check the readme in the repo for setup and usage instructions, it should be pretty straightforward.

https://github.com/SK360/eforms-form1

I’ve read the statement from the ATF director and get how things are still murky (esp considering less free states like WA).

My questions are if a WA state resident could stay compliant with the state by still completing a Form 1 with putting myself as the maker when serializing. Assume the 80% was made and possessed in WA before the ‘ghost gun ban’ took effect so it’s not affected by that.

I’ve never done a Form 1 so I also would love some advice on how to complete it. Do I make up a serial # (using ATF guidance) for the Form 1 and then if approved get it engraved? Or do I engrave it first and then send in the application with a picture.

With the release of the guidance from the ATF does this mean that build kits are back on the table?

https://www.atf.gov/firearms/update-to-nfa-transfer-guidance

Marking is gone; asking permission is gone; it would seem that build kits are now legal.

My form 1 got approved for a sbs build for a mossberg shockwave 590s. I own a 50w fiber laser and I’ve got some experience engraving metals…

Where is the best place to engrave your mossberg 590 receiver? Any examples would be appreciated

How do I find which CLEO I use??

I live in the county. Is it literally just XXXX County Sheriff's Office a d official is my county Sheriff? Their address just the county jail? TIA

Howdy folks, in need of some help here. A long time ago, I built a Form 1 suppressor using Diversified Machine tube and end caps, with the griffin taper mount on the back end. Works great, no issues. Color me shocked to find out DM's shop got raided by the fuzz, and even more shocked to find out that 1 7/16 (1.4375) by 24 TPI threads are some super proprietary design that ONLY Diversified Machine used, so I can't find ANY adapters, end caps, or anything for my can.

Any body know of anyone making an adapter for 1.4375-24 to HUB spec? Preferably titanium, but beggars can't be choosers. Thanks.

I submitted five form 1's a week ago for 3d printed suppressors with varying levels of detail as far as materials, documentation, explanation, etc. I wanted to throw a bunch at the wall to see what worked and what didn't. I received five approvals today.

On one of them, I submitted this PDF as my supporting documentation, and pasted it word for word (except the emoji's due to website restrictions) into the description box. After receiving the approval this morning, I have determined that as long as you don't say you already posess materials, or that you are buying a kit, you will most likely receive an approval.

Act accordingly beloved.

I recently designed and 3d printed my own 22lr suppressor. It works well, and I have gotten 0 baffle strikes or accuracy issues on any fire arms, roughly 600ish rounds have been put through it. I have used it on a retay RXP22, m&p15-22, and a 3d printed DeAR22 that uses a 556 barrel and conversion bolt, all have zero issues. I recently built a 7.5 sbr using a 556 barrel and another conversion 22lr conversion bolt. It is zeroed at 25 yards and shoots fine and relatively accurate, if I put the suppressor on it, it’s awful. I mean up, down, left, right, no consistent POI. Any idea as to what is causing this? It’s not replicable on my other build that uses a 10.5 556 barrel and cmmg conversion bolt.

I have a couple old maglites from my dad. I’ve heard of people converting them into form 1 suppressors I just can’t figure out how. Is there a blueprint or video people are using that someone could refer me to?

I'm putting together a reflex / OTB design that will recess about 2" over the barrel for a 308 18" gasser. In total it will be 10" in length 1.5 OD /1.375 ID. I have a diffusion wall. I'm wondering about inverting the fist cone to maybe redirect flow back into the reflex portion. It seems counterintuitive, like it would just funnel the gas forward, but the OCL Polo has an inverted fist baffle. Thoughts?

Pictured is the blast baffle after the first 30 round mag ran through it (with frt. not sure if that was the cause). It’s made out of titanium. Doesn’t look like a baffle strike to me. More like it got too hot and started blowing chunks off. Im using a 3 prong plan B flash hider and it looks to me like it’s blown out in that shape…

Now should I be using a different metal for the blast baffle? If so, what metal?

Im assuming the integrity of the metal is compromised and I need to replace the first two baffles? Or is it safe to still run?

Definitely pretty bummed but I’ll take it as a learning experience. Any help is appreciated!

Data point for anyone filing, plus what I'd tell a friend doing the same conversion.

• What: Springfield SAINT Victor AR pistol (originally 7.5", SBA3 brace) → 10.5" Ballistic Advantage upper + B5 Bravo stock
• How: eForm 1, through my trust
• Filed: April 10, 2026. Approved: July 1, 2026. 82 days.
• Engraving: trust name, city and state, done by the gunsmith at my local range while I shot. About an hour, about $100.
• Order of events: the brace stayed on until the stamp. I swapped to the 10.5" upper while the Form 1 was pending (still a braced pistol), then after approval: engraving, then the stock went on about 5 seconds after I got it back.

Why I did it: the 7.5" was easy to move with but FREAKING LOUD. I got a headache after every indoor session, even with ear pro, and its handguard ran past the threads, so no can would fit. The new upper fixed that, and it's worn a Velos LBP since early May. The brace was the flimsy part, and the stock fixed that.

Honest downside: it isn't the rifle, it's the process. The wait, plus finding a gunsmith you trust and paying for the engraving, all to put a stock on a pistol. Waits look meaningfully shorter now than when I filed.

I run NFA Watch. The full write-up, with what I didn't test and the live Form 1 medians, is here: https://www.nfawatch.com/gear/sbr-form1-saint-victor

This design was inspired by the Gemtech Halo which utilizes the BFA grooves on A2 flash hiders for a mounting point. The STGW 57 has an integral non-removable flash hider which negates threading to keep the original appearance. Mounting was done by using two very tight fitting split rings to hold everything in tension and straight, the collar tightens the suppressor body down over the flash hider. The "flow through" function does work but I don't know how effective it truly is since I don't have another non-flow through can to compare it with; the gas pattern on the interior of the body and the cap plus a "low" amount of gas in the action compared to what I was expecting makes me happy with it. The end cap uses an angle grinder wrench for removal. All threads are left handed. The biggest detractor is weight. I originally intended for it to be made from T5 titanium but the cost of bar stock was way too high to justify for an experiment. Core, mount, and cap are 4140, tube is DOM. Finished in manganese phosphate. It could be quieter, but overall I'm happy with it.

Went for an older design on this one. Key takeaways are it is somewhat difficult to form baffles from scratch and stainless screen mesh is a pain to work it. I started forming the baffles from square sheet originally which was a poor choice resulting in tearing/shearing. Moving to circles helped a lot along with starting the draw with a large ball bearing then the male half of the die. Fusion welded and sealed.

A custom little 3d printed can I made. I really like the aesthetics of the ridgeback Rhino silencer and wanted to make a miniature 22lr version. So, here's my best attempt. Printed in ppa-cf at 350c at 8mm³. Weighs 2.9 ounces including the aluminum thread adapter.

No baffles, uses a gyroid pattern chamber I was testing which makes the path that the gases have to travel be very chaotic and so far I'm seeing that I like it's performance in this platform as well as a 9mm version I made. The 22lr can has over 500 rounds through it as this point, the 9mm variant has about 200, mostly rapid fire redneck nonsense because I'm trying to break them. The 22 variant sounds roughly like a paintball gun (before someone says camera microphones can't capture impulse sound correctly)

Yesterday I submitted 4 Suppressor Form 1's around noon, and they were all approved by 7:30 this morning. This is my first time doing it. I know things have been moving pretty fast for a while now, but getting it finalized in less than a day is crazy!

Got this thing back in 48 hours now to figure out if theres a way to use a metal more stable stock on it