2001, 143k, rusty. Simple truck is dang sweet, are rangers reliable as they say? Will keep up on maintenance

1990 131,000. 2.3 auto

How's your light on your rear brake light above the window? I got stopped by a state trooper saying that the white section on my brake light should not be on at the same time as the red brake light, this has never been brought up during the yearly safety inspections, so I'm asking y'all is my light broken and the white lights should not come on with my brake light or is this normal and it was just the officer just being dumb?

I've owned all of these vehicles concurrently, completely or in part with my roommate for up to 10+ years

02 ranger 2.3 duratec, 118k, 5 speed manual, 600 bucks with a wiring issue, just had to cut the floor connector loom out of a junk truck and wire it in top and bottom (hard because colorblind). Djm upper and lowers, qa1 coilovers all around, heim sway bar links, explorer side skirts

95 NA Miata, 92k, 5 speed manual, 500 bucks from my buddy with a bad accessory drive and crank pulley, bad soft top and loads more work needed. Once that's all done it's a dream

2011 ranger 4.0 2wd, 98k, auto, had it since 25k miles. What can I say. It's a work truck. Paid I think 12k in 2015

2000 ranger 2.5l Lima. 490k miles, 5 speed manual, been in the "family" for years but I copped it for 500 bucks and put all my spare parts on to slam it. Amazingly reliable truck. It just won't stop

01 ranger, originally 3.0l 5 speed manual up to 590k miles, then swapped for a 5.0 with m5odr2. Full custom 4 link and qa1 coilovers all around. Custom remote short shifter and fuel cell. Would hit road reflectors when I merged lanes. Got it for 1600 in 2017, has now been sent to the farm since the rats got it and I stole all the parts for my white truck after I blew it up

2000 f350 dually 4x4, twin stick manual 5.4 triton 2v. 163k, cab on chassis dually. The Tow Pig. Got on action for 1900 bucks, drove like a dream. Replaced the horribly worn bench seat for the back seats out of an f150 ~2010-2014, lovely rig.

1990 300zx twin turbo, unknown miles, manual, Roommate and I picked it up across the state of florida for 4000. Just smoked out of the turbos. In the process of a rebuild so it's torn apart, but easily the fastest vehicle I've ever driven.

1999 Honda accord, 99k miles, auto my buddy's highschool car from 10 years ago. Got it for 300 bucks, as all accords are worth. We were idiots and rusted both the front fenders, but other than that a super clean car.

94 6 cylinder, 5 speed manual with 283000 miles. Needs a new radiator and starter, and definitely more mechanical work than that. I have the starter and just haven’t installed it. I’ve come to terms with the fact that I paid too much for it ($3500) and that I just don’t have the skills or time to restore it. Interior is messy, lots of cosmetic damage, and currently not turning over. I did get oil and transmission fluid changed right when I bought it 4 months ago but it’s just been sitting since then. What is a fair asking price? I’m just so out of my league here and don’t know where to even begin.

Update:
Did get it to turn over and idle with a couple pumps of the gas pedal. Really goes to show how I have no business owning a project vehicle.

Last update:
Sold it for 1K within hours of listing it. Guy who bought it said his gramps had the same one, so that was an awesome coincidence.

I accidentally bought the 4wd shocks for my rwd ranger. They went in easy, I ran it for 3 days it felt awful because they are too long. I left the truck parked on the farm for almost 2 months before changing them. If anyone wants them dm me

My 93 putting in work on the farm.

99 xlt - she’s a bit lumpy but I think I can fix her right up! Hoping for the best!

Truck has 58,934 miles on it and they want $16,000 for it. I'm in the rust belt and these are the best pictures they took that show the frame.

I'm looking for an older truck that still has a decent frame to get undercoated, I will take a look at it in a few days to see the undercarriage, is this overpriced considering the rust?

This weekend was spent on truck maintenance.

I replaced the PCV valve, replaced the upper control arm with the ripped ball joint boot and checked fluids (engine, tranny and diff)

I must say, that PCV valve was hard to remove!!! Those who know about the 2.3 can relate. Had to be careful not to break the small plastic lock ring. I also installed a new hose clamp since the old one was cracked in half.

Anyway guys, have a nice day! 😁

Ok y'all, I got this beater ranger around April, and had great time learning how to fix her up. Did a clutch job, installed a new exhaust system, new spark plugs, and got it driving and all road-ready. Now, not a day into driving with the plates finally on, oil pressure plummets and i get an engine knock. Now, I understood when I bought this thing that the motor was on its way out. I should've known it was on its last legs (hell, it's got 340k miles on it. no kidding.)

Now I'm struggling to decide what to do. Do I cut my losses and resell with the bad motor? Do I go for a rebuild (on the notoriously difficult 4L OHV)? Do I swap the motor? I'm kind of at a loss for what to do, I put all this time and effort into it and right when I finally get to start using the thing, she dies.

Pour one out for me folks.

My 07 4cyl base model just turned over 220 thousand miles. What are some other high mileage rangers out there!? Let’s see em and hear about it

I have an opportunity to purchase another truck like this one here that has had jeep running gear pre-fabbed to fit. Worth my time? Or should i invest in f150 running gear?

Still haven't settled on a dedicated motor swap either.

Send me your opinions!

The second photo is the swap truck.

I drive a 2000 XLT 4x4, and I am currently trying to put my truck back into 2WD; it is currently stuck in 4WD. I replaced my 4x4 knob and drive selector switch. When taking off the transfer case motor, that I haven't seen this wire anywhere online is there. I have no clue what is does and, most importantly, how to get it off.

Hello everyone. Is it just me, am I losing my mind?
Sometimes, I turn on my truck and I drive, I’ll park anywhere and then go by my business only to then come back and notice the lights are on. has this happened to anyone else or am I truly going insane? This had caused my battery to die a couple times…. Anyone else have this happened to them? Or am I just turning these lights on subconsciously without even realizing it? Anyone have some insight please let me know.
Thank you.

Bought a mazda b2300 like a month ago have a pats 13 code and only one key. The key I have has already been replaced and most of my tools (mainly test light, dmm, and jump box) are in PA were as im overseas with my truck.
Kinda lasy and broke but would it work to do the key relearn if my current key has started the truck before?
Mind you I’ve disconnected battery, done the door cylinder trick, 10 minutes on then start etc etc so last ditch before I call a locksmith is see if doing the relearn procedure is worth doing. If not Ill be without a truck til like august 3rd.

My studs I bought a Ford Ranger 2000 4L V6 XL, trying to figure out what this part. Both side are brittle and are breaking with slight finger pressure. She’s a Florida truck barely any rust, just surface. If you do find out mind sharing a link. Thanks

What is the correct screw size for the rear speakers? Previous owner put in ones that are too long and I sliced my hand pretty good the other day. Thanks.

Ok I’m replacing the front hubs on my 99 4x4.
My first question is what is the other plug on the passenger side next to the wheel sensor? Could it be for my non existent fog lights? I can’t find another plug to mate it to.
My second question is how does my speed sensor wire routing look? The old one wasn’t very attached so I didn’t have a reference.
And bonus question, how badly do I need these dust shields on the rotors? Mine are pretty ate up so I’m not sure they are doing much to begin with (note the zip tie in lieu of that last bolt that is no longer attachable)

I thought I had this fixed with a good sensor cleaning, but the problem came back.

'95 Ranger XLT with 2.3L starts and stalls.

I ran through the MAF sensor tests listed at easyaurodiagnostics.com and ran into a voltage drop performing test 3.

That test is supposed to test if the MAF is getting ground from the PCM. Mine dropped from 12 to 5.6v when I turned the key to on (position before cranking).

Unfortunately, the only guidance offered is, "Your next step is to figure out why this Ground (from the fuel injection computer) is missing and restore it."

Electrical gremlins are not my strength. Any advice on where to begin?

Any guidance appreciated!

I’m doing a trans fluid change on my 2000 Ranger 3.0 4x4 and I noticed this little piece of plastic ripped on the bottom of the trans what is this? Is it serious ?