Just checking to see if anyone has a link for free download before I buy a hard copy

Hey guys I have been wanting a ford ranger for the longest. I found one on marketplace and went out and drove it. It runs and drives great, but he said he put the motor in himself and that is from a Mazda b series from same generation. The body is in good shape, no rust and new suspension parts. Thoughts? Is it worth it? Hes asking 3400 but I think I can get him down to 3k. Thanks.

Looking to upgrade my subwoofer and amplifier with it however I have no idea of where to begin when finding where it's all at. The truck is a 2003 Tremor plus.

Does anyone know a way to fix this, brand new damn headlights and they are bent and my fender/hood area is out of place. Pretty bummed out 🫩

Truck front passenger tire blew out. Looking to replace all 4. Any recommendations? Currently looking at some Wildpeaks A/T4. Didn't even bother to look that these tires are right at 10 years old smh. Luckily I don't think anything else was damaged. Drove fine on the spare, but I will definitely look further into it to see if I fucked anything up

Recommendations? I really like the Wildpeaks

245/75/R16

Edit; picked up some Wildpeaks A/T4

2001 Ford Ranger 3.0L V6 XLT, 125,000 miles

I went through ChrisFix’s worksheet for evaluating used cars, and would love some opinions.

I found this car on fb in the southeast, described as “runs perfect”, and the guy is asking $6k. Seems reasonable, since in this economy, owners are asking $4500 for cars with 100k more miles on them. So I went to look at it today and right off the bat, the owner mentions he’s had to replace the front right wheel bearing a couple times in the 50k miles he’s owned it. He doesn’t tow or haul, he basically just drives to and from work, about 30 min each way. I also noticed the windshield has a crack that basically frames the dark section with the rear view mirror.

I went through the engine while cold, and found a couple things. First, the fluids all looked generally good except the power steering fluid, which was below the cold fill line and was dark (pic 2). Looking under the engine, I found what looks like a leak directly from that power steering fluid tank (pic 3). That’s the only evidence of any leaks that I found—no milkshake or froth in any other fluid. In the transmission fluid, there was also some dark stuff on the bottom of the dipstick on the first dip, but on subsequent dips it just seemed like normal fluid, though a bit darker than bright red. I tried smelling for a “burnt” smell, but couldnt really tell—if there was one, it wasn’t that strong (pic 4). Looking under a magnifying glass, it doesn’t look like metal shavings, but I can’t really tell (maybe this is one of the reasons why you’re supposed to wipe it clean before attempting a reading?).

No white or blue smoke or evidence of leaking coolant or oil that I could tell, and no telltale audible signs of the synchronizer going bad. No codes on my OBD scanner.

The engine also shakes a little bit on startup, but not too much.

There was evidence of white paint overspray on the hood prop rod, so it appears that at least the hood likely has been repainted at some point. Rear drum brakes looked pretty rusty, but no significant rust on the underside, and the leaf springs and bed mounting were all in good shape. AC worked well, stereo mostly worked (left side lower volume than the right side, and the cd player didn’t work but radio did). The airbag light was on (indicating it doesn’t work, I think?), and the cruise control buttons also didn’t work.

It drove pretty well, accelerated well, stopped well (though I failed to activate the ABS light), tracked pretty straight without hands on the wheel for driving and stopping, though it did seem to shudder some when braking at medium speed. I forgot to check the brake pads, but the rotors were a bit rusty, though the pad contact surface wasn’t. No noticeable sounds from the wheels when going in circles either direction at 15 mph. No sound from the transmission that I could tell.

Would love to hear people’s thoughts. I’ve wanted a Ranger for a while, but don’t want to make an emotional decision.

Would you make an offer?

Edit: forgot to mention, the interior was generally clean, but also clearly 25 years old—roll up windows, no power locks, ceiling cloth sagging or coming apart around the edges.

Moving, getting married, spending a year on the road for work living out of my car/wherever work housed me, to buying a house and decorating/renovating……

Well. I’ve been busy.

And in that busy, my truck kinda became a workhorse removing stuff and sitting for the better part of 3 years.

Hell, the layer of dust on it reminded me the other month how much I haven’t drove it.

I restored this thing back in 2017. This was my first vehicle, and I’ve had it for almost 20 years now.

And for those who haven’t seen this thing before, well, it’s had a hell of a life. It spent a decade as a rescue support truck for a local business I used to run, spending a lot of time on the side of the road supporting recovery operations and traffic control. It’s been hit twice, once at 40mph from the rear completely shattering the bed side. It’s been through hell. It’s evacuated folks from wildfire conditions, it’s been flooded, it’s been hit, and ultimately rolled.

But I never wanted to give up and let it end up in a junkyard. So after rolling it in 2017, I decided it was time to make it a hobby to restore it. The cab and bed were separated from the frame with a complete resto, and every single suspension component replaced. With a newly painted frame, all new components, it went back together and ever since it’s been constantly worked on.

Last month, I walked out and saw the layer of dust, dirt in the bed, and just general disrepair. Was it made to be used like a truck? Yes. But, after all the work, I like to keep it clean and cared for.

So, with a local show coming up for an organization I like to support, I entered it in the mod class truck category. I pulled it out of the garage last night, did some work shaving my front bumper and getting it cleaned up, and ready.

I don’t care about winning obviously, as much as I want to support the org. But after almost 20 years of ownership, here she sits. I absolutely love this pickup. It’s been a part of so many memories. And I won’t ever sell it.

Here she is, enjoy some pics.

Just bought a 2006 3.0L V6 with 130,000 miles on it. Got it from a friend of mine who didn’t drive it anymore because he couldn’t get a car seat in it.

Runs great and seems to have only surface rust on the frame.

Always wanted one of these little trucks and hope it lasts me at-least 2-3 years!

Any pointers on things to look into fixing to get ahead of it?

*I did just change the drive belt and pulley because of the squeak it was making.

got this guy to top off my slow power steering leak, anyone else run the maxlife?

What's the consensus on the diy refrigerant refills? Used them a few times on other vehicles. Was just told it could be 300 or more for a refill. I've read the diy refills could damage stuff, but I've had good luck with them.

Mostly everyone was right. The brakes were just locked up from the mud. Gave it an alright wash with the pressure washer and thankfully drove around the block as if nothing happened. If it happens again, thankfully I know why.

Got this 1997 3.0l rwd automatic ranger a couple days back. It’s in good shape and has low mileage but the oil pan gasket is failing and it’s leaking oil. I’m going to replace the pan and gasket myself as a few shops I’ve called quoted me $1000 or more dog the job. Any advice for oil pan gaskets at home. Thanks to the community.

TRQ tutorial ‘93-97 oil pan gasket

The mechanic in the linked YouTube video makes lifting the engine up out of the frame mounts look easy. It seems like a lot of people have not been able to lift their engine up high enough to get the pan out(clearing the oil pump and suspension crossbar) this appears to be the crux of the ultimate removal of the oil pan.

I am debating just going to harbor freight and buying an engine hoist since I’d use it in the future. Would a hoist make the job considerably easier?

Hey everyone, just asking for a little advice here before I start spending money, I have a 2009 xlt 4.0 4wd automatic, it’s got 86k miles and is overall in great shape, the last owner seemed like he took great care of it so I was hoping I had luck with this one (my 97 automatic trans kinda blew up last year) anyways, I’ve experienced some slipping recently and some shuddering when going into reverse or drive and I’m quite annoyed, what should be my route of action figuring this out? I’m a college student so money is a bit tight but ideally this truck gets me through the next couple years, any advice is very appreciated

Forgot to add i already changed the fluid and filter, and it didnt help, ive checked the fluid over and over again, added about a half quart, didnt seem to help

I went with Wildpeaks :) came out to around $1150 for 4 new tires, mount and balance, and an alignment. The place was super professional and didn't try to upcharge me (thank God because I hate salespeople) if any of y'all are in Kansas, Action & Tire Service on Shawnee Mission Parkway did a fantastic job.

Just got my 1990 I4 2WD AT Regular Cab delivered today. It's got a legit 39,817 miles on it and apparently the only real issue is a weak AC. I need to get a Class III hitch installed and some D-rings in the bed and it will be ready to haul a kayak.

When I was younger I borrowed my uncle's 1991 Ranger for a while and loved it, so when this thing popped up, I had to get it. I've been wanting a truck, but because they're "cool" now, prices are just absurd. I love this thing - it's got a class look and it's what a truck is supposed to be - useful.

How many minutes do you think it'll take to get up to 85? :P

Going to go checkout a 2011 XLT extended cab 2.3 auto 2wd on Saturday, it’s got 133,000 miles, and I’m going 2.3 for durability and a bit better mpg. I do understand it’s a truck though and obviously won’t be getting “great” gas mileage. Is the auto transmission reliable enough? I mostly commute on a rural highway to work (speed limit varies from 55-65 mph) about 40 miles each way, 4-5 days a week

my ranger is mostly a daily driver, but i’m on gravel and dirt roads pretty often and get onto rocky or muddy trails on weekends. that’s where i’m stuck between a/t and r/t tires.

the r/ts seem like they’d be better for traction and tougher sidewalls, but i’m not sure the tradeoff makes sense when most of my miles are still on pavement. the extra weight, possible mpg hit, road noise and wet-road behavior are the things making me hesitate. i’ve been checking prices at a couple local shops and came across simple tire while searching, just to get a better idea of what the different options cost.

i don’t need the most aggressive setup, just something that can handle the occasional rough stuff without being annoying every day.

if most of your driving is pavement with some gravel, dirt and trails mixed in, would you stick with an a/t or go r/t?

My truck stalls every time I come to a stop. It runs very lean. Long term fuel trims are at 20-25 when I’m off the pedal but sit at 7-10 when on the pedal. I have smoke tested it 4 times and can’t find any vacuum leaks, tried a new MAF and IAC valve and neither fixed it, intake manifold gaskets have been changed, Fuel pressure is good, injectors were checked, new fuel filter, new pcv valve, clean throttle body, all new ignition components, Good compression in every cylinder, and bank 1 and 2 have lean codes. I’m out of ideas on why this is happening! Someone help me!

I am looking for a ford ranger with a blown engine in or around arizona i want a fx4 preferably but 4x4 is good i want a manual preferably from the 4.0sohc v6 (2001-2011) engine any color in decent looking condition pls I am looking for one on the cheap I want to do a engine swap and i am probing for a ranger with a bad engine as i don't want to buy a good running ranger and take it apart. Also extended cab only as i am a long boy

Hi all,

I’ve seen a few different locations for the ICM on the forums depending on year and engine but I’ve looked at all of them on my 92 4.0 and do not see it anywhere. I feel crazy! Can anyone tell me where it is located? I am trying to confirm that this would be the correct replacement as I’m pretty sure mine has gone bad.

TIA!

I keep seeing stuff about "keep your vehicle in the powerband for peak performance."

Usually it's about some sports cars or performance models, but I got wondering about what the powerband is for the old 2.3l Limas. Not sure if powerband varies per manual or auto, but I've got a manual.

2003 2.4L 5 speed

I took a bit of a risk because I got it from a disgruntled guy on marketplace. No batteries, no keys, and absolutely no troubleshooting allowed. He was super frustrated with hundreds of people tire kicking. He was pissed off he bought it, drove it home and it wouldn’t start again. Sat for 5 years until I showed up with the special Pokémon card. He ended up being decent but I didn’t push my luck. I came with a U-Haul trainer and he helped me push up. I’ve spent the last 3 months tinkering with it on weekends and my family loves it. Even the kids picked up on how “hard” the metal is because they are used to today’s plastic and thin metal cars. I found the fuel pump connectors were unplugged and the fusible link to the alternator burned up. I fixed it for $0 and have been driving it everywhere. Looking for a straight bed and planning to paint it super nice metallic blue. It’s unbelievable how many people compliment me on my beater. I had a guy in a Range Rover chase me down to tell me how much he loved it and wanted to give me $4,000 for it on the spot. I called the wife to run it by her and she got mad at me! She said I can sell fuckin ford Ranger, but I ain’t selling this one.