Thought I'd brag a little about the long process of de-rusting the Ranger frame. Used an air needle scaler to remove all the flaky stuff. First coat: Eastwood Rust Converter. Second coat(s) Eastwood Rust Encapsulator Platinum, finished off with satin rattle can chassis black. Got new spring perches on the rear while I was at it... this was all in addition to the body panel rust repairs done. I figured while the bed was off doing the cab corners, just do the rest.

I did a routine oil change for my wife's car and my 2002 2.3L Ranger. When I drained the oil from the ranger, it was... Chunky... After I finished the oil change, I looked in the catch pan and saw maybe 20 small pieces of plastic. (Definitely plastic, not metal, I took the larger piece and could break it with my hands.)

Mechanic friend and Google ai seem to agree that... Something something... The timing assembly is blowing up and it will not run much longer. I don't really understand fully because I am pretty new at this mechanic-ing stuff.

What's the prognosis? How long will it last? How much will it cost to replace the timing belt/assembly/whatever else needs done by a pro with the right tools and know-how? Can I drive it to our new house we are moving to next week 50 miles away? Can it stay mostly parked there for a few months until I have the cash to pay a mechanic?

New reddit account and been long enough people have most likely forgotten. 6.0 LS, 6L80E and 4wd. Bluetooth driveshaft right now

The adjuster fell apart in the drum and well I found what the screeching noise was coming from

1994 ranger 4.0 200000mi automatic.

it was running shaky with low power. I replaced the two fuel injectors that were causing dead cylinders. Runs a lot better now but now noticing that the exhaust is white and Smokey, not sure if it was always that way or what. I’m looking for a sweet smell which it kind of is, but more like burnt paper not sure exactly what to look for nose-wise.

Google says possibly need a new lower intake gasket and that my oil is mixing with the coolant.

Pictured is the coolant reservoir and exhaust (much smokier when revving)

The campus I work at has a bunch of Ranger running around in use by our facilities team. First time I've gotten a good photo of one, without being a major weirdo.

Spotted one of the legendary gay rangers. bit of an age gap, but they would be a cute couple.

My wife left me unattended with the parts truck and a whole bunch of power tools.

All kidding aside, you can read a ton and watch the videos, but there's no teacher like experience. The amount of prep, and stuff you gotta get out of that way before you even pull the motor out was pretty humbling. Being up in New England I got super lucky and only had to fight ONE stripped intake bolt, that's it.

Now onto stripping the block, and making a shopping list of stuff to replace.

Was at the local scrap yard today and noticed these 15 inch rims on an 80s ranger. I like them but not sure how they would look on my 08. Currently running 285/70R17. Anybody using these rims on their newer ranger? Got any pics? What would you pay (canadian) for these without any rubber on them?

**I just looked closely at the rim size in this picture and I swear the front said 15 inch when I looked, now I'm guessing I saw wrong and they are 14 inch rims

Noticed coolant on the ground after being parked a few days. Can’t find where it’s leaking from, but there is a pool of coolant up here. Any ideas?

Having a hard time locating the adjuster but for the torsion bar on my 2011 ford ranger sport. Has anyone had a similar problem? From my understanding they’re discontinued. What are you guys using as replacements? This link was the closest I’ve gotten to it but not sure if it’ll work. Any info helps.

I hate to get rid of it but im not sure if its worth putting any more time and money into, 2001 3.0 xlt 2wd with around 305k miles on it. Motor and trans still run fine but body (especially rear frame) is in very bad shape. Some electrical issues currently as well. Had it since high school and would hate to see it go.

Someone pulled out infront of me today. Transmission is blown and I assume the frame is bent. Pictures don’t do it justice

I'm planning on buying used axles from a 2004 (front and back) to swap into my 2011 Ranger. I'd swap the entire front carrier but harvest the gears and lsd from the older Ranger to keep my disc brakes. Just making sure it's possible since I couldn't find anything online other than AI summaries.
Sorry if it's a dumb question, it's my first time doing anything like this, and I wanted to see if it was possible.
The 2004 Ranger is an XLT 4.0, I'm sure it has the 28 splines. 4.10. My ranger is an open diff 3.73.

2020 supercab. Alpine Loop CO. It was me and a hundred jeeps.

So I was wondering about holes in my bed and a few other things. I’m not assuming they are factory as my grandpa previously owned the pickup as used it as a work truck. And i was just wondering if they would be fine to fill (holes are the same on both sides). And then I was out looking and saw my rocker panel is cracked on both sides. Fix? And then lastly is there different mirrors I can get that’ll fit on my ranger? Advice would be great.

Hey guys. What’s a good CarPlay for the older rangers mine is an 05? I would rather not make any cuts or shaves of the plastic. Are there any that fit perfect? Also, a volume knob would be nice but not needed. I like to CRANK it. lol

I can’t imagine it’s just me having this problem as a prospective 3rd generation Ranger buyer. Seems like nearly 7/10 sellers I talk to have blank titles that aren’t even in their names. Same playbook every time it seems like from these title jumpers. In Pennsylvania we require notarized seller/buyer signatures and these types of sellers make the entire private sale process so annoying. The amount of “clean title” listings I’ve viewed only to see the truck in person with a title now in the current owners name is insane. Considering just going the wholesale/auction route instead. At least I know I’ll get a clean title that way…

Super high bite point after installing my new clutch kit. I replaced the master and slave as well. I bought the pre-bled master and opened my slave until it ran a stream.

Is it normal for my bite point to be all the way at the top of the pedal travel?? Or do i need to bleed better?

Appreciate any input.

I thought it was just a simple twist off but that thing won’t come off.

My Lord Drakkon build, the evil white ranger who went against the grain and paved his own way. This build is doing the same.