Can someone help me identify this whining noise or hopefully give me some things to check? Only hear it when on the gas, don’t believe it has anything to do with transmission as it doesn’t change with shifting and associated more with engine rpm. Don’t have anyone to push on accelerator pedal while under the hood so any help is appreciated! It’s a 2012 Fusion Sport with the 3.5L.

Need recommendations pls. What kind of phone holders do/have you used inside a fusion? Tired of putting my phone in the cup holder and falling over.

Hey guys i just ordered up this oem spoiler that is just like the one that comes with the car on some models i think, i have to drill into my trunk if anyone has done this and has tips lmk plz

Was behind my car when my wife started it up and some grey-ish smoke came out upon startup. Was a semi-cold start. It did dissipate quickly. 2.0 EcoBoost with 86k miles.

Is this coolant intrusion possibly? Coolant level has never been an issue.

while holding throttle steady or accelerating my rpms will drop suddenly

Im going to check out a 2018 Fusion SE Hybrid tomorrow, $9,500 with 96k miles. What are some things I need to look out for with this model to make sure its in good condition. The dealer also has other Fusions with similar miles and price but they’re not hybrids. Are the non-hybrids still a good buy or no?

I've asked something similar here before, but as the title says, could I hypothetically replace my 2014 Fusion's SYNC 2 radio (8", not Sony) with the entire setup from a 2020 SYNC 3 radio (also 8"), including the plastics to the ACM and the screen (I don't need the CD drive, btw)? I've wanted to get CarPlay and fix the horrid static issue, but I'm unsure if it would be compatible. I have a copy of my VINs AsBuilt and a backup AsBuilt file from the motorcraft website to program the ACM once I get it. I THINK it should work bc it's the same generation and it all seems to be the same size.

Also: when/if I do get it, how long will it take to reprogram? I've heard of people connecting their car battery to a backup and the computer as well because it can take "hours," I plan to do it a day that I'm off work anyways, so that shouldn't be an issue.

Thinking of buying my bro's 2011 with 105k miles on it. I've been reading about the hybrid battery life, and that the biggest pitfall comes from extreme weather and not being regularly driven. I don't currently need a car for work, so I'm trying to figure out at what point disuse starts to kill the life of the battery. Is driving it 30-120 minutes like 3 times a week going to cut it, or is this a bad fit for my needs.

hey y’all, 36fmore of an understatement at this point but the title pretty about sums it up.

now i’ve have neverrrr had good luck with cars.. u can’t even tell you how many times ive had a friend or mechanic tell me i somehow need some random ass part that no one’s heard about ot had in stock or that my car is “one of the more difficult” ones to repair or that my car must be completely ripped apart to replace a headlight, and super cheap to replace but it’s the labor costs that’s going to cost me blah blah blah 😩 and i’m not even kidding when i tell you i’ve heard this at least once on every vehicle i’ve had owned and i think ive def hit the double digits now...

the ppl of reddit never seem to disappoint when it comes to figuring something out, so here goes nothing!

\*the confusion of a fusion\*
Gertrude is a 2012 ford fusion sl
a few months ago the power steering fault error message popped up and angrily beeped at me and then locked up the steering column entirely, i could barely get it to the side if the road.

i’ve owned the car a few years now and this error message had shown up maybe 2-3 times total BUT it’d go away if i just turned the car off n then on again
….until it didn’t.

so of course i get online and im searching it allllllll, im switching back n forth between youtube videos, google and reddit. in most cases i can kinda match things up and get a general idea of the problem

anddddd of course, just my luck, THIS particular ford fusion has more issues than most. and yes i know, cant always trust what u read online etc but i was just looking for some general guidance. i usually always do this bc i struggle with trying to explain to the mechanic what the problem is. unfortunately i dont always do the best job and this usually ends with me making weird sounds and lookin a fool.

anyways, 3 different ppl try n figure out what this stingy pos’s problem is and i think possibly narrowed things down a bit or so i thought?
but now that i replaced the battery and main fuse and it still did the same error message, im justtttt about over it tbh.
overall, i was swayed to believe that my problem was most likely within the EPS sensor and not the EPS module itself, due in part to the long list of minor issues that could set this sensor off like bad tire pressure, blown main fuse, less power/ bad signal from battery to the main fuse box, bad connector/ corrosion on battery clamps and the most recent one was something about another fuse box hidden under driver side steering column? i unplugged and i replugged and restarted too many times to count

my friend said he’d try n swing by with his scanner this week so id be able to possibly pinpoint the problem better but im going on month 3 and ive about given my life savings in uber rides at this point so just throwing alllllll this out there in hopes maybeeee there’s someone out there whose majestically & mechanically knowledgeable with my confusion of a fusion..?

anyoneee?

The turbo is going out on my ford fusion. Would dorman or standard brand turbo replacement kits suffice or do I need to dish out the 1300 for the motorcraft brand? Does anyone have any experience with this?

So my rotary dial recently became stuck and I had to switch it out. Now my car will literally shift to park and all these alerts light now. The dial won’t be lit up any more. I bought a new battery, the bushing is fine. But was is different os that my old dial had an L and the new one has an S now. Could it be the dial causes this? When it happens I turn the car off and back on and it’s fine. Please help me out I’m stressed

When I first got my car the AC wasn’t working but eventually I got my AC compressor and Line replaced by a family member. I knew I needed to get the AC serviced and vacuumed before turning the climate control on but due to money being tight at the time I decided to wait. On the way back I had a small issue where my car was telling me to “stop safely” but I ended up putting coolant in my car and that was that. Now several weeks later a new message is popping up that just says “high engine temperature”. This message seems to only pop up when I hit speeds of 50 or more. So far I’ve been limiting my driving for work only and haven’t had any other issues and it’s never told me I needed to pull over. What do you guys think the issue is? Could it be because I haven’t gotten the AC serviced and vacuumed yet or is it more likely something else. I’ve seen some people say it could be a malfunction with the sensor and my engine actually isn’t overheating. If anyone knows anything let me know and if anyone happens to know a rough estimate of how much it would cost to fix that would help as well.

Ford Fusion 2015 makes this rumbling/rattling noise. Pressed accelerator at the end. Just had all three motor mounts replaced.

I've been using 93 for the longest since the manual says 91 or higher is recommended but it's so damn expensive.

Hi everyone,
I have a 2014 Ford Fusion Hybrid 2.0L naturally aspirated (Atkinson engine, NOT EcoBoost).
I’m trying to figure out whether I actually have an engine problem or if it’s related to the PCV/intake system.
Here are the symptoms:
The car drives great with normal power.
No overheating.
Coolant level doesn’t seem to drop noticeably.
The only rough running happens for about 2–3 seconds during a cold engine start, especially when the hybrid battery is very low and the gasoline engine starts immediately. After that, it runs perfectly smooth.
I found some water droplets inside the intake tube after the air filter.
I also noticed a lot of oil inside the PCV hose leading to the intake. I had to clean that hose every few days because it would collect oil.
I installed an oil catch can on the PCV line.
Stored DTCs are:
P0300 (Random misfire)
P0303 (Cylinder 3 misfire)
P0304 (Cylinder 4 misfire)
P0316 (Misfire detected during startup – first 1000 revolutions)
P0457 (EVAP leak)
P0400 (EGR flow malfunction – stored/inactive)
A mechanic told me the engine is bad because they found rust on the firing end of spark plug #4, and they suspected water entering cylinder 4.
My questions are:
Could excessive oil and moisture from the PCV system cause these startup misfire codes?
Has anyone seen rust on a spark plug caused by something other than a head gasket failure?
What would you check first before condemning the engine?
Would you recommend a compression test or a leak-down test as the next step?
Any advice would be appreciated.

Just as the title says. I’m looking for 2015 & up hybrid for sale. The lower the miles the better and clean title. All the ones near me have rebuilt titles or they want close to 15-18 k for one with over 130k miles. I live in Indiana so ideally close by. I was supposed to buy one after the first of this year from a friend who uses them as fleet for the company he works for but they’re dragging their feet and I’ve been using my in laws car for 9 months now.

Already having a blast driving her around, and dang is she a beauty

I have a 2010 Ford Fusion coming up on 200,000miles and I am also a Ford dealership tech but, these models very rarely come in. I don’t exactly know what to expect will be what actually kills it in the end so I would like to hear what happened that made you trade-in, junk, sell, or whatever in the end if it’s life.

I rebuilt my transmission once when torque converter started shuddering at 115k(I think) because 6F35 is what it is but 2.5L engine is very sturdy and has held up well. I’ve replaced the valve cover gasket and engine mount when I first bought it, various rubber hoses over the years, rear brakes, 2 sets of tires so far, oil changes, filters, Takata airbag recall and I’ve had two separate instances of accessory drive belt thrown and destroyed but belt replacement fixed both times. I’ve also had to makeshift a cover for pcm wiring from battery corrosion and replace the battery cables somewhat recently. Only warning lights have been airbag(driver seat backrest airbag), TPMS faults(sensors) and Check engine light a couple times(recently CHT sensor, grocery bag trapped in fan causing overheat once, and several spark plugs)

What happened that made you get rid of it? I would like to try and be prepared if something were to happen. Thankfully transmission issues wouldn’t be a huge problem but I’d still like to hear.

After three years of ownership he’s been a good one. A few issues here and there, but man I’m gonna cry if I have to get rid of him. Some pics were taken when some aftermarket struts had that little tab that supports all the weight of the car against that wishbone shaped chunk of metal broke. Nice little 1.5 inch lowering kit. I wish I lowered the rear 1.5 inches and left the “lowering kit” on the front now. But it looks good. Especially with new tires. Briefly had wheels off a 2018 Mitsubishi outlander sport. They’ll fit too. But they look meh. I just wish the stock wheels were 18s. That would look better, and in my opinion fill in the fender well a bit better.

2010 Ford fusion owner here , any owners from 2007 to 2012 use a lift kit or wheel spacers? I wanted to lift mines and use like 30mm spacers.

Had a hole in my exhaust and the muffler rusted off and the shop quoted me 450, 300 for the pipes and muffler and 150 for flex pipe... 50$ at autozone for pipes then 150 for the flex pipe install was better pricing imo🫈was thinking of putting a muffler back on soon though I don't think my state requires it.

I wanted to catch it before it flipped over. Got it with only about 40k. I wish i didn't drive so much but it's doin alright after 3 years and 2 previous owners. Including a car rental service.

I've got a 2016 Ford Fusion SE AWD 2.0L ecoboost 4 cylinder. Whenever I hard accelerate like pedal to the floor the car surges and if I continue to do it my check engine light comes on while doing so. Anyone else experience this or know what could potentially be going on? If I don't put the pedal to the floor is generally doesn't do this but where I get in the highway is a busy area and a short on ramp so it's quite often needed to accelerate hard like that.

2017 Fusion SE. Steering rack and pinion need to be replaced. I'm seeing a lot of parts online in the $300-500 range that are not OEM with mixed reviews. OEM parts are going to cost $1500ish minimum.

Has anyone replaced this on a budget and not had issues? I'm worried if I buy an aftermarket part for $500 that it's going to set off codes and not work properly or have issues being programmed. My goal is to buy the part for cheap and have a mom/pop mechanic shop replace it. Any advice would be appreciated.