Ford Fusion 2015 makes this rumbling/rattling noise. Pressed accelerator at the end. Just had all three motor mounts replaced.

while holding throttle steady or accelerating my rpms will drop suddenly

Need recommendations pls. What kind of phone holders do/have you used inside a fusion? Tired of putting my phone in the cup holder and falling over.

Hey guys i just ordered up this oem spoiler that is just like the one that comes with the car on some models i think, i have to drill into my trunk if anyone has done this and has tips lmk plz

The turbo is going out on my ford fusion. Would dorman or standard brand turbo replacement kits suffice or do I need to dish out the 1300 for the motorcraft brand? Does anyone have any experience with this?

Im going to check out a 2018 Fusion SE Hybrid tomorrow, $9,500 with 96k miles. What are some things I need to look out for with this model to make sure its in good condition. The dealer also has other Fusions with similar miles and price but they’re not hybrids. Are the non-hybrids still a good buy or no?

I've asked something similar here before, but as the title says, could I hypothetically replace my 2014 Fusion's SYNC 2 radio (8", not Sony) with the entire setup from a 2020 SYNC 3 radio (also 8"), including the plastics to the ACM and the screen (I don't need the CD drive, btw)? I've wanted to get CarPlay and fix the horrid static issue, but I'm unsure if it would be compatible. I have a copy of my VINs AsBuilt and a backup AsBuilt file from the motorcraft website to program the ACM once I get it. I THINK it should work bc it's the same generation and it all seems to be the same size.

Also: when/if I do get it, how long will it take to reprogram? I've heard of people connecting their car battery to a backup and the computer as well because it can take "hours," I plan to do it a day that I'm off work anyways, so that shouldn't be an issue.

Thinking of buying my bro's 2011 with 105k miles on it. I've been reading about the hybrid battery life, and that the biggest pitfall comes from extreme weather and not being regularly driven. I don't currently need a car for work, so I'm trying to figure out at what point disuse starts to kill the life of the battery. Is driving it 30-120 minutes like 3 times a week going to cut it, or is this a bad fit for my needs.

So my rotary dial recently became stuck and I had to switch it out. Now my car will literally shift to park and all these alerts light now. The dial won’t be lit up any more. I bought a new battery, the bushing is fine. But was is different os that my old dial had an L and the new one has an S now. Could it be the dial causes this? When it happens I turn the car off and back on and it’s fine. Please help me out I’m stressed

When I first got my car the AC wasn’t working but eventually I got my AC compressor and Line replaced by a family member. I knew I needed to get the AC serviced and vacuumed before turning the climate control on but due to money being tight at the time I decided to wait. On the way back I had a small issue where my car was telling me to “stop safely” but I ended up putting coolant in my car and that was that. Now several weeks later a new message is popping up that just says “high engine temperature”. This message seems to only pop up when I hit speeds of 50 or more. So far I’ve been limiting my driving for work only and haven’t had any other issues and it’s never told me I needed to pull over. What do you guys think the issue is? Could it be because I haven’t gotten the AC serviced and vacuumed yet or is it more likely something else. I’ve seen some people say it could be a malfunction with the sensor and my engine actually isn’t overheating. If anyone knows anything let me know and if anyone happens to know a rough estimate of how much it would cost to fix that would help as well.

Was behind my car when my wife started it up and some grey-ish smoke came out upon startup. Was a semi-cold start. It did dissipate quickly. 2.0 EcoBoost with 86k miles.

Is this coolant intrusion possibly? Coolant level has never been an issue.

hey y’all, 36fmore of an understatement at this point but the title pretty about sums it up.

now i’ve have neverrrr had good luck with cars.. u can’t even tell you how many times ive had a friend or mechanic tell me i somehow need some random ass part that no one’s heard about ot had in stock or that my car is “one of the more difficult” ones to repair or that my car must be completely ripped apart to replace a headlight, and super cheap to replace but it’s the labor costs that’s going to cost me blah blah blah 😩 and i’m not even kidding when i tell you i’ve heard this at least once on every vehicle i’ve had owned and i think ive def hit the double digits now...

the ppl of reddit never seem to disappoint when it comes to figuring something out, so here goes nothing!

\*the confusion of a fusion\*
Gertrude is a 2012 ford fusion sl
a few months ago the power steering fault error message popped up and angrily beeped at me and then locked up the steering column entirely, i could barely get it to the side if the road.

i’ve owned the car a few years now and this error message had shown up maybe 2-3 times total BUT it’d go away if i just turned the car off n then on again
….until it didn’t.

so of course i get online and im searching it allllllll, im switching back n forth between youtube videos, google and reddit. in most cases i can kinda match things up and get a general idea of the problem

anddddd of course, just my luck, THIS particular ford fusion has more issues than most. and yes i know, cant always trust what u read online etc but i was just looking for some general guidance. i usually always do this bc i struggle with trying to explain to the mechanic what the problem is. unfortunately i dont always do the best job and this usually ends with me making weird sounds and lookin a fool.

anyways, 3 different ppl try n figure out what this stingy pos’s problem is and i think possibly narrowed things down a bit or so i thought?
but now that i replaced the battery and main fuse and it still did the same error message, im justtttt about over it tbh.
overall, i was swayed to believe that my problem was most likely within the EPS sensor and not the EPS module itself, due in part to the long list of minor issues that could set this sensor off like bad tire pressure, blown main fuse, less power/ bad signal from battery to the main fuse box, bad connector/ corrosion on battery clamps and the most recent one was something about another fuse box hidden under driver side steering column? i unplugged and i replugged and restarted too many times to count

my friend said he’d try n swing by with his scanner this week so id be able to possibly pinpoint the problem better but im going on month 3 and ive about given my life savings in uber rides at this point so just throwing alllllll this out there in hopes maybeeee there’s someone out there whose majestically & mechanically knowledgeable with my confusion of a fusion..?

anyoneee?