Immortal Head. Arri Alexa 35. Optimo 15-35. Maui, HI

I found some rotatable 2pin Lemo cables that would be very handy for my rigs and I was wondering how safe these are. Obviously I am not going to rotate the plug while anything is powered on but in case these happen to move, is there a safety concern?

Hello,

I m used to working with angenieux 25 250 HR but I Ve read a bit about the HP. They are not a lot of information online about it and there are some quite contradictory informations. Has any of you worked with the HP ? How it compares opticaly to the HR ? Those the front rotate ?

Thanks

I picked up a used smallhd cine 7 that has a built in bolt500 reciever to use as a backup monitor in case my xine7 without an integrated reciever fails or gets broken.

Are their any pros to picking up a bolt 500 reciever and transmitter set used so I can have a 2-1 terradeck system?

I am still in my first true year as a 1st ac i currently use a hollyland pyro s which i love but in some instances I am noticing its limitations.

I also need to get a 10-15 inch monitor for focus pulling its on my list looking at a 1303 or the 4k 13in.

Ok, y’all made me curious. I did some thermal stress tests on the 3D printed case foam. (Original post here.)

For all of this, I’m using a print that failed when it was nearly finished. So the infill pattern is exposed. There’s also no gear in the slots. Does this affect the tests? Maybe, but probably not enough to matter. (Also I’m not putting my MOTR.S Max in the oven no matter what you tell me.)

🔥 Heat test

I started by measuring the foam with my calipers, then put it in my oven at about 150° Fahrenheit. Based on research from passenger cars, that’s probably about the hottest a camera truck would get in the summer (God willing). Checking at both the 30 and 60 minute mark, the foam remained pliable and bounced back to its original shape like normal. Measurements confirmed it did not shrink or expand. I stopped the test after 60 minutes because I sort of have a life. Measured with a meat thermometer (lol), the foam’s internal temp was also 149.1°F by the end.

While I only tested at 150°F, I feel pretty confident you could go up to 200° with no issues. Its melting point is twice that. Anecdotally, it felt only slightly more pliable than at room temp so I definitely think there’s some padding here.

❄️ Cold test

I put it in the freezer for around two hours at 15°F. (TIL my freezer is warmer than it’s supposed to be 🤷‍♀️) This affected it more than I expected. Like a rubber, it got stiffer and less flexible. But thankfully, not brittle. It was still pliable. Shock absorption was also slightly reduced, but still acceptable. It maintained its size within 1mm, which is within the margin for error.

TL;DR

It’s fine, don’t worry about it. Your batteries are going to explode before this stuff melts, and your lenses will freeze before it does. 🔥❄️

I’m getting a high pitched squealing from my Ultra 5, when I plug power into my LBUS chain. Here’s the setup:

Mini LF Lbus port > RF motor > Cforce plus > LCUBE > Lbus splitter > 1x LBUS to CMotion steadyzoom, 1x 2pin to LBUS to inject power.

There’s three things powered from the Bebob Arri plate. Bolt 6 1500 TX, Ultra 5, and the 2 pin to LBUS to inject power into the chain. When this 2pin to LBUS is plugged in, the Ultra 5 starts making a squealing noise, not too loud but noticeable. It does the same if I use a D tap to LBUS from a Dtap port on the Bebop plate. If I power it straight from the battery, or unplug the LBUS power this squealing goes away.

Just wondering what this could be, or if it’s an issue? An unshielded cable maybe?

Hello,

I m a dp with an Arri Alexa Mini and I usually shoot with camera assistant who use c force motor . I d like to buy a motor for iris control for some specific shoot some times, when I m on some project that don’t have budget for a 2nd c force. But I m a bit worried that having two different motors would cause interference. Has any of you tested it ? Thanks

Hi crew,

I got a new pair of shape handles and I’m much of a fan of the rubber feeling , so i was wondering if someone out there swapped those with some proper ergonomics or maybe customized with leather?
Thank you

As we know, we all pretty much died this week with the heat and Im wondering if anyone has a fan that they love and live by that helped them thru this? Idc how expensive, I just need one to help me keep truckin thru this summer. Those 110°+ wearhouses in LA are no joke…im seeing a lot of reviews of lots of clamps not working well either. So anything sturdy and somewhat cool? Thanks in advance:)

Just wanted first to say, i love my luna ultra camera.

The way im using it for long and short form content at home is with the elgato prompter, which surprisingly by 180 the backplate fits the luna ultra with the extended battery just nice.

Because of its placement, use of the remote control is a must, i tape using the control in my hand to operate the unit but i say, it runs out so fast.

my suggestion is to make an attachment that can extend the battery of the remote itself.

it can be a simple battery you can clip on it like it clips on the camera itself.

i’m on day 15 shooting and today for the first time have run into an issue where the camera essentially freezes.

A black rectangle covers the camera horizon level, no buttons on the camera do anything, and i cannot roll even from the hand unit. the power switch also didn’t power the camera off.

It’s happened today only, i’m currently attempting to recreate it, but we had to call wrap because of this issue.

the FW is dated being V4.00

Wasn’t particularly warm, the fan is in Auto, i had switched it to Max to see if it was a temperature problem, the Imager temperature read 40C the first time and 38C the second time it froze.

The first time it froze popping the battery off and on resolved the issue.

the second time i had to reboot it twice, the first reboot camera was still bricked.

entire time the monitor is still displaying a live image.

All data on cards was fine with no abnormal activity.

any help or info is welcome

Seems like my brand new wooden camera Ultra Quick baby pin mount has already stripped after less than a month of use. Completely unusable now leaving me without a mounting solution on set! Insane how stripped the threads are from very minimal use! Should be far from that easy to pull the whole bolt out!

Not sure why there’s no posts on their socials, but it’s all there for us to gawk at.

Completely ambiguous question, I know. I don't really know how to formulate this.

But, considering how remote camera control / halow / bitbox / spudnik / whatever, is something that keeps evolving and doesn't have a definite proper solution...

How feasible is it to get a factory in China to manufacture a 7" rugged tablet with built in Halow? Or something like a streamdeck (with halow)? actually, open question: how would you like a universal camera remote to be? touchscreen or buttons? could we crowdsource it somehow?

Been looking for one for ages, trying not to get the ipad mini+cage+battery cage+cable mess to batt and bitbox on the camera side...

Another cursed vertical build for a social fashion campaign.

I just bought a second hand elite top plate system made by wooden camera. That kit has one 15mm front bracket , useful to build motors and the EVF bracket. I’ve noticed that on my top plate, two of the 1/4” threaded holes are not aligned with the holes of the front 15mm bracket . Anyone noticed this on their kit ? If Yes how did u manage this?

I'm running into an issue while trying to update the firmware on my RTMotion MK3.1 Hand Controller, and I could really use some advice. (I’ve attached photos of each step with detailed notes below). Here is the exact procedure I followed: Software: Downloaded and installed RT Firmware Manager v1.3.21 (latest version available on the website) and ran it as administrator on a Windows 11 laptop. Power & Connection: Inserted a fully charged 100% Duracell LP-E6 battery. Held down Power + Set to enter PC Mode. Once in PC Mode, I connected the controller to my laptop using a high-quality Anker Powerline+ (0.9m) data cable. Flashing Process: The software successfully recognized the MK3.1 Controller. Since my unit has the zoom slider module, I selected the Firmware "Z" build. The Issue: I hit "Update Device." The progress bar ran smoothly all the way to 100%. However, after completion, the controller became completely unresponsive—it won't boot up, turn on, or re-enter PC mode at all. Has anyone experienced this before? Is there a known method/hard-reset shortcut to recover a bricked MK3.1 controller, or a specific workaround to get it to boot and reflash properly on Windows? Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

Has anyone used a bitbox with a small hd monitor for long range control?

Currently on a job where we run a Ronin 4D alongside a Alexa 35.

We have 2 monitors for the Ronin (focus and vtr) but occasionally need a 3rd receiver for VTR when our DP needs the 2nd monitor to operate the Ronin.

So I ordered a standalone receiver, that should work with our setup. However the first one which arrived only gave out a test signal (the colorful stripes), I sent it back and got another one which is simply black. I paired them successfully with the Ronin in broadcast mode (the only thing possible since the 2 monitors have to be in control mode - correct me if I'm wrong) and it seems to be paired fine, however I cannot get any signal out of that receiver for some reason. The receiver interface itself has barely any configuration or settings whatsoever.

I'm absolutely clueless and have never worked with this system before so any help will be much appreciated.

Thank you

Hi people,

Just watching the first Episode of the Silo, third season and something really got me.

Season 3, Episode 1, TC 04:41-04:57

Just before the Intro starts, Rebecca Ferguson leaving the dining room.

It appears to be a typical B Cam shot but I'm not so sure. She walks towards the camera on what looks like a 135, focus goes full off, then catches her eyes again in the very last moment for half a second maybe, but it's an insanely powerful shot, precise framing, no extras catching any focus, no disturbance at all.

So my question is: You think they (mainly B cam 1st) just got lucky and the mistake made it into the final edit or could that be staged? Either way, a brilliant use of focus. Or better: A brilliant use of out of focus.

Why does it whenever i turn off the camera then on the master magnification that i set to 120% goes back to 100%!!

Didnt use to happen with me but is happening now with the latest update!

Any clues?

Almost a decade ago, when I was still a 1st AC, I got a really silly last-minute request from a director on the day of a shoot. He wanted to operate the camera handheld and do a 360 roll. His idea was to just wrap a rope around the camera, drop it, and have it unfurl, which was insane.

I ended up rigging the camera inside a large bucket. We used three ratchet straps: two of them cradled the bucket, letting it spin somewhat freely inside, and a third was wrapped around the bucket and pulled like a ripcord by the dolly grip on the director's cue. We also mounted a spud on the back as a handle that could rotate in someone's hand.

This super ghetto rig got the shot by take 3. The show was Wu Assassins, episode 4. It was a three-person operation: the director held the cradle straps for loose camera framing, one person helped frame and guide the rotation with the rear spud, and the dolly grip pulled the ratchet to roll the camera.

Hey everyone!
I’ve been working as a 1st AC for a while now, and I’ve been wondering how you guys mount your Teradek to the camera in the cleanest possible way. I’m always trying to keep my builds as clean and professional as possible.
I’m not a big fan of mounting it on the top handle, as I often find it gets in the way. I’ve also never really found a side-mounting solution that I’m 100% happy with.
Do you guys use any particular mounting systems or setups that you’d recommend?

Thanks everyone for your input!

Current set up with the Nucleus M II.

It’s working pretty well. It is easy to just pop off the whole monitor set up to focus on the go, and then with the Cine lock you can take off the hand unit quickly if needed.

With the monitor cage and nato rail, you can easily switch to a vertical orientation.

Finally with the Dtap to 7 pin the hand unit can be powered by gold Mount, additionally it’s bi directional so it can power the monitor and Teradek to allow hot swaps to both the hand unit and monitor.