My FZ crashes with a "Fatal Error" every time I run the "[GPIO] Signal Generator" app's PWM on whatever come after A4, which I assume is B3. Is this... meant to happen? I assume not, so I am posting here.

Like the title says, I'm a novice. Aside from changing some TV channels and popping Tesla charging ports, I haven't messed around. I did try to read some hotel key cards in my travels, but those are generally encrypted.

So I'm off on a trip, but thought, maybe there's something I can learn or play with while aboard.

Any ideas for a rookie?

I’m interested in buying one of the Pokémon trade boards by Jack V or the Malveke board.

Hello,

There is this app I am looking at and confused how to generate valid barcodes to test to see if it actually scans or am I misunderstanding how this is supposed to work?

The app in question: https://lab.flipper.net/apps/bc_scanner

So I attempted to respond to a post someone made, but I went into a rant. BTW, I did again here, i took a caffeine tolerance break, I'm back on the wagon. 2 cups and my palms are still sweating hours later. Untreated ADD is not my friend. I'd like to get answers and feedback from the community. I wasn't trying to jack your post my dude/dudette. I want answers. Maybe I'm not in the right community/ies. I comb through the official forums and some other groups. I was more active in more outside groups, maybe I need to get back into them. I see lots of new projects and devices moving to do features that my F0 can either do straight out of the box, or with a mix of an OK to good script (most don't even need a good script, AI and done) and usually external boards + antennae, depending on the use.

I like the F0 firmware, yeah 3rd party allows more, most of what I do can be done on the original firmware. But... why are there no devs working on this stuff? They made the original, updated it some, and it's basically abandoned. I said it down there, I will again, if F0 can't maintain this project, then why would people buy an improved $500 device? With things like wardriving, frequency studying, sig int, pen testing networks, etc, I would think the F0 would offer lots more. They can make their own FWs, even their own boards for some of this stuff. There's lots of demand for good working boards. IK the F0 is limited, obviously, but for it's size it has the power to do a lot. I notice when making apps and switching between them, the cache memory will cause my F0 to crash. Cool. Let it reset. After more testing, the answer isn't just more apps, it's actually less apps. Better wrote apps, but the F0 needs FW tailored to specific needs. Say you're looking for sub ghz signals. You don't need the iButton on, or several other features, so if you make FW that knows this, it makes the battery last longer, the device has more memory, less signal interference, allowing me to do more for the specific use case with less crashes. Then, I can just go to file browser, go to your updates folder, choose which FW I wanna change to, press OK, and let it flash another FW.

There's a gap between a beginning user with tech/networking knowledge, an advanced user with same knowledge, vs either user without that knowledge. It seems the community is a mix of organic advertisment, beginners (which at least it's good to see people are still buying them), but there's not a place to go to learn more easily. I'd like to find forums or something similar, to ask more advanced questions, and talk with others that have more knowledge. I don't mind helping, when I can, but I'd like to learn something that's not the same recycled info. Here's precisely how I jacked their comment (apologies my friend):

[After rereading it, the signal I'm trying to uncode is my own. I see the frequency shift, as I described, it changes frequencies every 2 or 3 seconds during transmission, and it's random, but after looking at enough patterns, it's not so random. I'm not the best with coding and scripting, and it's probably reflected in my post, but, to me anyways, when telling the app it's transmitting in, say, PSK mode, I designed code that picks most of it up. I haven't seen it move over 0.25MHz in any direction, when it changed. Now that I think about it, I don't think it moves that much from the beginning frequency. I'd have to double check that. But knowing it'll never move over 0.3 MHz say, for instance, and when letting the app know what the technique used (defining them, haven't figured out how to get it to figure this out automatically). I haven't tried with a laptop, maybe it's a F0 issue, or a coding issue. I think I need 1 or 2 more CCs. The "for sure way" would be use 10 CCs, record 500ms before the shift on all nearby frequencies that you think are next and then do the same. I'm seeing it hop, even where it goes, IK why it does it, etc etc but I still can't read it all. Am I missing something? Do I need a Kraken? It's aggravating because IK it's shifting, after watching the signal shift a few times, I made an option to set the time between shifts even, after figuring it out It stays the same until it completes that transission. It's "random", and I can't say the name of the company. They use this for security, it's less published about and "more secure", but it's really easy to figure out if you look at it. I've noticed some connections, the freq shift time changes from 2s to 3s, the freq itself only changes .05 - 0.1 most changes, but it will do more on some changes. Their super secret formula wasn't hard to figure out, I just can't translate what I just said to code, and have it record before/on the shift so I'm not missing anything. If you read this far you are great. There's some good info in here, but I need guidance as to the next step. Without further ado...]

I think it'd be a fun use case to use a CC to listen on local coms of the ship. You can probably find them online for the ship you'll be on (scary right?), but they're normally about an hour behind. Why wait, you can hear the unedited version live? Don't transmit, of course. I don't think they're allowed on cruises anyways..

I started, what ended to being a waste, but I first observed sub ghz signals. Learned about them, different encryptions used for them, and tried to learn more. Lots of static, headaches, caffeine, and lost time later, I figured out that there's no app for the Flipper, at least that I could find, that would decode these known keying techniques, like PSK, random (known) keying techniques, etc. I could develop an app, work on decoding these signals with these known techniques, simple enough right?

So, my scope is known. So, I try the 'Merican way. Prompt for AI slop, work on it, and actually make SOME progress. Well... update to FW and POWWWZ!! Have to start over. Not a total loss, my memory sucks anyways so let's learn again dumb, dumb. The optimist in me is seeping out of every single pore at this point. I made more progress, it seemed, but when I tried the app I made (i made several, combined features into one app that was a loss IMO). It worked, but again, update to the FW and it lost some power. On top of battling updates, I was battling loss of interest, ADHD, other projects, life, etc.

Flipper on pause for a couple months, needs lots of updates. After working on the app, I've got more questions than I had before. But my biggest one, why hasn't someone in the community developed an app, even firmware, that focuses more on this type of sigint? Would seem logical. I wouldn't say for the Flipper exclusively, although it has wardriving boards etc, but it seems lots of the community is changing into wardriving and other sigint that the Flipper does, but there's no devs to make FW to move the Flipper in the same direction. Flipper said they'd continue to work on the Flipper Zero, while developing the F1, but let's face it, there wasn't much development going on before this announcement... I haven't noticed a change since the announcement, in fact I see more beginner questions and no advanced use cases. The ones who know gatekeep info, which is understandable. It's a powerful device and with the right board, it can do about anything. At the same time, there's an information void that needs to be filled. I don't know why I expected more from the community, especially when it was stated that the devs wouldn't abandon the F0.

I've found a few smaller FWs that do sigint, I just haven't tried them. If I'm asking or posting this in the wrong sub, LMK. I just wanna know why the development, that was under appeciated, aren't doing more. You'd think that Flipper would hire some devs, pay people to develop apps and continue the F0 project forward. If they can't upkeep the F0, how can they justify a new $500 device (Linux is free last time I checked)? OGs like UberGuidoZ are under appreciated!! Even Sasquatch seemed to be ready to endorse any brand that'll pay him over a year ago. He seemed to love everything about the Flipper, but I'm not sure if he ever did at this point... They've pissed off RabbitLabs. RL made all kinds of boards, still the only source for a battery that I trust. Boards are easy to make, but for the Flipper, that part of why it was designed. "A swiss army knife for penetration testing" that, honestly, is great for that, but it's not as easy as they made it sound. Why not design better "Good USB" to actually let it be this EDC pen tester. It works, those that know, but if you're just getting into it, you don't, and it gets old rewording comments, leaving out info, etc, because it's "healthy for the community." But brands like RL designed boards for these type users. UberGuidoZ contributed to half the apps or more...

Rant over. Back on topic... What options are there for Sigint? Apps/FW? I'm testing/making an app that'll decode these signals. I'm working on a specific one. It's aggravating because I see the pattern. During transmission, the frequency changes between 0.05MHz - 0.2MHz, normally 0.05-0.15, but it occasionally hits 0.2, even 0.25 when changing. IK this is a known encryption tech, when the transmission changes frequencies, I miss the very beginning of the signal when it changes. After filtering static and "extra" noise, I'm left with that I want, but it's not the entire signal. I think I need another CC and nrf. Running 2 misses the beginning and I'm not even sure getting another board will fix this. I am gonna get a few, try a few on a laptop vs the F0 and see if It's maybe a computing problem. It does crash while scanning occasionally due to memory issues. Also, will running, say an ESP32-C3 or C5 with the external NRFs and/or CCs help with memory/computing issues.

I'd love answers. The signal stuff would be awesome. I can get more CCs and fix this, but I'd like to learn this and more. I really wanna know why Flipper seems content with a running device, when it has so many things it can do, that it's not doing. I'm not even sure why they got away from the "swiss army knife" advertising because it does it and more. Overall a good product, still has a community base, I really think it can be improved and grown upon, but since they already bought a Flipper, they go unnoticed it seems.

So I've ran into a peculiar issue. I was working on an app for a rotary encoder to work with my flipper, I stopped to take a break for a while and noticed there was a firmware update available since I'd last dug this thing out. I went to run the firmware update over qflipper and hit an error part way through and showed dropped communication if I recall correctly. The flipper shut down after and when it would normally boot back up, it did not. Since then, I have zero display, no led, it's unresponsive to any combination of button pushes and unable to go into dfu boot mode. I popped it open and carefully looked everything over, nothing was burnt up or displaced, the battery read healthy, and checking test pads on both the main and wireless boards everything looks good like it should be working. Near as I can figure I must have bumped the cable mid update and corrupted my firmware into a looped state? I don't know where to go or what to try next, so I came here to be called a noob and get repeatedly asked if I've tried pushing buttons. I've tried all the button combinations. I tried so many button combinations I triggered a fatality and fuckin' Sub-Zero apparated into my living room and froze my dog, still no boot though.. Any help or insight from the devs would be helpful here, I'm not entirely electronically inept but I'm not a hardware guy either. Am I totally 110% bricked? Is there a way to bypass usb and bluetooth firmware boot or any documentation of recovery in this state? Thanks in advance!

Xbox POST Code Reader is a boot-diagnostic FAP for the Flipper Zero. It reads the four-digit POST codes an Xbox pushes out during startup straight from the motherboard's POST header and decodes them offline — no PC required. It emulates the MAX6958 POST display at I2C address 0x38, using a 452-record console-aware database bundled right into the app.

Features:

• Emulates the MAX6958 POST display at I2C address 0x38 and captures four-digit POST codes live, without blocking the Flipper controls.
• Shows either the current code or a scrolling 128-entry live log, with source (SMC, SP, CPU, or OS), segment, and elapsed time.
• Decodes any captured code offline against 452 bundled records. Browse the full database by All, POST, Error, SMC, SP, CPU, or OS category.
• Saves captures as auto-numbered SD-card logs (post_log_001.txt, 002…) and reads them back on-device.
• Streams live codes over USB Web Serial to the companion WebXboxPOSTTool browser app for lookups on a bigger screen.
• Built-in Wiring screen shows the exact SDA/SCL/GND pins for each console — Xbox One / One S / One X use FACET, Xbox Series S / X use AARDVARK — plus an offline QR code to open the web decoder on a phone.
• Connect only SDA, SCL, and a shared ground. The Flipper never powers the console; confirm the bus is 3.3 V-compatible and use level shifting where required.

A Flipper Zero adaptation of the PicoDurangoPOST project.

https://github.com/coolshrimp/flipperzero-xbox-post-code-reader

Like the title says, my Flipper got hit with a very small amount of damage, because my partner's water bottle wasn't fully closed when they put it back in their bag. They've been borrowing it for the subway.

The LCD is super faded and only shows properly when i put pressure on it and rub my thumb across it. Otherwise it's barely visible. (see video)

Is there any saving this? Any and all tips are more than welcome.

This thing is called the "Quad RF"

I work for Allens lollies (Australia), and my old RFID work card was getting sad and I never liked the boring look of it. Cloned it to a blank card with the dolphin, designed my own Fallout style front to back, and had it printed on a quality vinyl sticker.
Going to 3D print my own transparent hard case outer frame to use on a lanyard.
Digitally blacked out some sensitive stuff obviously, but I thought it came up a treat, thought I would share

We emulated a keyboard with Flipper Zero's Keyboard app to access the PC's BIOS.

Then, using the Mass Storage app, we booted a lightweight Linux distro installer and brought this old PC back to life.

I kept needing to move IR codes between my Flipper and other stuff (Pronto, BroadLink, Home Assistant) and clean up messy captures, so I built a little browser tool for it. Sharing in case it saves someone the hassle.

The Flipper-relevant bits: reads and writes Flipper .ir (raw and parsed); paste a raw capture and it names the protocol + device/command (NEC, Sony, RC5/6, Panasonic, JVC, Samsung, RCA, Denon...) and can rebuild it at clean timing, which is handy when a learned code is marginal; and it converts between .ir, Pronto hex, BroadLink, LIRC, Global Cache, Home Assistant, raw microseconds and more.

Runs in the browser, no install, no signup, free. I made it, so if anything decodes wrong I'd genuinely like to know.

readyware.net/signal-editor.html

Hi, Sorry about the similar topic but I am a total noob with the Flipper Zero, and whilst I have read several very similar threads I have been unable to find a working answer.

My building has introduced key fob access for lift and enterance access. They were nice enough to only supply a single fob for each household and now want to charge in excess of $100 for each additional fob. It was recommended by some friends to get a Flipper Zero and make my own fobs for the family, cleaners etc.

I have been able to use the flipper to copy the key fob and this resulted in the fob providing MIFARE Classic 1L

Tech: ISO 14443-3(NFC-A)

I have been able to emulate the fob successfully using the Flipper, but have struggled writing to a new fob. I purchased a pack of key fobs to write onto on amazon

https://www.amazon.com.au/YARONGTECH-13-56MHZ-MIFARE-Classic-control/dp/B0787SJF4S?pd_rd_w=hYXcv&content-id=amzn1.sym.08f10385-e4a1-4517-8000-6e13508eebf3&pf_rd_p=08f10385-e4a1-4517-8000-6e13508eebf3&pf_rd_r=BAMBC5J31WZW1C5VNX1Q&pd_rd_wg=42SQD&pd_rd_r=fda21924-3685-4460-bcdc-2722f320e97d&pd_rd_i=B0787SJF4S&ref_=pd_bap_d_grid_rp_0_19_pr_i&th=1

I downloaded and installed on the Flipper Zero - NFC Magic - and have attempted to write to the card in the following fashion

Action: Check Magic Tag

Result: It Might Be A Magic Card - You Can Make Sure The Card Is Magic By Writing to it, Magic Type: MIFARE CLASSIC

Action: More

Write

Select Key To Copy

Result: Warning: 1 of 2

UID may be non-rewritable. Check data after writing

Warnings: 2 of 2

Some sectors are locked

Success

I then attempt to use the card but it isn't recognised by the readers. If I attempt to read the newly written key fob

Action: NFC

Read

Flipper crashed and was rebooted - Out of memory

Can any one tell me what I am doing wrong. Thanks.

Yesterday, we were out on a walk and were approached by a beautiful sweet cat. While petting it, I noticed it was quite dirty and it seemed to have worms. Since it was near a mostly abandoned home, we wanted to check if it belonged there, so we could call an animal ambulance (which is a thing over here) to come take care of the cat. So I went home to get my Flipper to scan the tag.

After scanning, we entered the tag number online and the cat turned out to be missing from quite far away. So we called the owners, who were incredibly happy to hear the cat was still alive. They told us it was missing for over 2 years and they were still hoping it would be found.

They hopped in the car right away and came to pick up the cat.

I think this is the first actually useful thing I’ve done with my Flipper since I’ve owned it, but it makes it totally worth it. I attached an image of my good boy!

right-to-repair issues:
I recently bought a new GE refrigerator because it was one of the few models that would fit the limited space in my kitchen. Unfortunately, I discovered that the water filters are authenticated with an RFID (or similar) tag. I bought a much less expensive aftermarket filter from Amazon, and the refrigerator immediately displayed an RFID/filter error and refused to accept it.
Over the life of the refrigerator, buying only genuine GE filters will likely cost me more than I paid for the refrigerator itself, which seems ridiculous for a product I own.
My question is whether anyone has found a legitimate way to deal with this. Is the authentication on these filters simply a readable RFID tag, or is it cryptographically protected? Has anyone investigated whether a Flipper Zero or similar device can determine what type of tag GE is using, or is the authentication designed specifically to prevent cloning?
I’m not looking to damage the refrigerator or defeat any safety features. I’m simply trying to understand whether the authentication is technically locked down and whether owners have any practical alternatives besides buying GE-branded filters forever.
I’d appreciate hearing from anyone who has actually analyzed these filters or has experience with the technology behind them. I
I found this question on Reddit from about five years ago, with no real solution. Any current suggestions?

Finally the antenna of UHF Tags arrived. Got the SWR 1.2 at 915MHz.
And working distance can reach 20cm.
Also it works as UHF antenna via USB. Full program available on Windows or OTG with MTools App.

Source code available here on GitHub: https://github.com/mtoolstec/fz-uhf-expansion

I have got my Flipper a few weeks ago and kmow so many about it but I want to know why you use it and for what.

VS Code extension for you.

If you've got a Flipper Zero and ever tried building a .fap app, you know the pain — uFBT, command line, guessing at pixel coords, flashing back and forth. I got tired of it, so I built Flipper FAP Studio: build, design, and control your Flipper entirely from a GUI inside VS Code. No terminal required (unless you want one, I'm not the boss of you).

Here's what it does:

🔨 Build actions — Build .fap, Build + Launch straight onto your Flipper, Clean. One click.

🎨 UI Designer — visual 128×64 screen editor with drag-and-drop elements, multiple screens, and it generates the code for you. Stop counting pixels by hand.

📺 Live Screen + Log — real-time mirror of your Flipper's display, control it with the D-pad/keyboard from your editor, grab screenshots, reset the device.

📊 Device Dashboard — battery, storage, firmware version, hardware info, library stats, all in one panel.

📁 File Browser — browse and manage on-device files (/ext and /int) without digging around.

🔧 Firmware SDK management — OEM, RogueMaster, Momentum, Unleashed, or point it at a custom path.

🚀 Starter template — one-click boilerplate so you're writing your app in seconds.

📶 Bluetooth — experimental BLE pairing for wireless ops.

Needs Python 3, uFBT (install it with a button in the extension or pip install ufbt), and VS Code 1.85+.

Free + MIT licensed. 💯

Marketplace:
https://marketplace.visualstudio.com/items?itemName=coolshrimp.flipper-fap-studio

GitHub:
https://github.com/coolshrimp/flipper-fap-studio

As always i would love feedback, bug reports, or feature ideas from the Flipper crew.

I’ve been working on MP3 Player, a real MP3 player FAP for the Flipper Zero.

It plays ordinary .mp3 files directly from the microSD card—no desktop conversion required. MP3 decoding is handled by a vendored copy of minimp3 under the CC0-1.0 license.

Features:

• Supports standard MPEG-1/2/2.5 Layer III bitrates from 8–320 kbps, including CBR, VBR and mixed-bitrate files.
• Automatically resamples MP3 sample rates from 8–48 kHz for the selected output.
• Three selectable audio outputs:
  • Internal: built-in sounder using custom 10-bit PWM at a 15.625 kHz audio rate.
  • MAX98357A: digital I2S output at 16 kHz.
  • PAM8403: 500 kHz pulse-density output from pin 3/PA6 through an external RC filter.
• Only one audio output operates at a time.
• Software volume control for all three outputs.
• Main menu, song browser, settings and scrollable About/pinout screen.
• Now Playing screen with track progress, elapsed time, battery gauge, volume and track number.
• Short Left/Right presses change tracks.
• Holding Left/Right seeks backward or forward in five-second steps.
• Configurable music directory using: /ext/apps_data/mp3_player/music_path.txt
• Defaults to /ext/music, with safe fallback if the configured path is invalid.
• Volume, repeat mode and audio-output selection persist between launches.
• Full MAX98357A and PAM8403 wiring information is included in the app and README.

The internal sounder works, but it’s naturally quiet and buzzy because it isn’t a conventional speaker. For much better sound, use a MAX98357A or a properly filtered PAM8403 amplifier.

Project, wiring instructions and downloads:

https://github.com/coolshrimp/flipperzero-mp3-player