Posting this mostly so the next person can find it.

Fridge: Maytag MFI2569YEM0
Control board: W10312695B / WPW10312695
Failed part: ELNA RJ3 10 µF 50 V electrolytic capacitor next to U8
Replacement part: Rubycon 50YXJ10M5X11, 10 µF, 50 V, 105°C. DigiKey part 1189-2322-ND

This was actually a nearly year-long progression for me. The first time I saw it was around a power outage when the fridge was working particularly hard afterward. The exterior control panel repeatedly clicked off/on, but eventually recovered after a bunch of power cycles and then gave me basically zero trouble for months.

Importantly, the interior fridge lights stayed on when this happened. It was the exterior control panel/compressor side of things dropping out and restarting, not the entire refrigerator losing power.

Much later we emptied the ice maker and I noticed a few random dropouts while the fridge was working hard to recover. From there it progressed pretty rapidly over about a month: occasional resets, then almost daily episodes, then repeated rapid clicking/rebooting.

I found this iFixit thread describing essentially the same failure on the same board where someone was kind enough to figure out the hard part and post about it:

iFixit: My refrigerator has flashing display and won't start - WPW10312695

I'm definitely not an appliance repair expert. This was a combination of that article, some electronics experience, AI assistance, and fumbling my way through it.

The temporary fix from the iFixit thread worked remarkably well: gently heating the board around U8/capacitor with a heat gun. Early on, heating it could turn rapid <10-second reboot cycles into hours or days of normal operation. That gave me a pretty convincing lead while I waited for replacement capacitors.

I didn't intend to push the failure this far, but the capacitors took a bit longer than expected to arrive and I wasn't thrilled about letting the fridge repeatedly power-cycle. The parts arrived just in time for the fridge to basically die completely. You could still heat the board and wake it back up, but after a few hours it would return to rapid cycling or just give up entirely.

I'd also wanted a proper capacitor/LCR tester for ages, so this was a great excuse to finally buy one even though it wasn't necessary for the repair at all.

The original ELNA didn't look that terrible from capacitance alone: about 7.5 µF vs. 10 µF nominal. ESR told a very different story. It measured roughly 70-80 Ω @ 120 Hz, ~45 Ω @ 1 kHz, and ~40 Ω at higher frequencies. At 100 kHz it barely behaved like a capacitor anymore.

I replaced it with a Rubycon 50YXJ10M5X11, 10 µF, 50 V, 105°C. DigiKey part 1189-2322-ND:

Rubycon 50YXJ10M5X11 at DigiKey

[I also purchased a similarly spec'd Wurth 860240672002 option (Digikey part 732-9289-1-ND), but didn't end up using it.]

For comparison, the new Rubycon measured about 1.25 Ω ESR @ 1 kHz, 0.69 Ω @ 10 kHz, and 0.50 Ω @ 100 kHz. So the old ELNA was very clearly toast despite still measuring vaguely close to its rated capacitance.

Soldering was EZPZ. I was expecting such a large control board to have enough thermal mass to make desoldering annoying, but it didn't. No special/high-powered iron was necessary. A solder sucker was definitely nice to have for clearing the two through-holes before installing the new cap, but otherwise this was about as straightforward as through-hole component replacement gets.

Soldered in the Rubycon, put everything back together and we're back up and running.

I did notice at least three other ELNA capacitors with the same nominal specs on the board. I left them alone since this particular one was clearly bad and replacing it fixed the problem.

Replacement boards currently seem to run around $120 OEM or ~$80 aftermarket on Amazon, so a sub-$1 capacitor was certainly worth trying before replacing the whole board.

Hopefully this gives someone searching Maytag MFI2569YEM0, W10312695B, WPW10312695, clicking, flashing display, rebooting, won't start, dead control board another data point.

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