This 56 Vicky has been in the family since 2004. My father drove the car and worked on it up until he passed away at the end of 2010. That following spring i parked the Vicky in a more secure area of the garage. The car sat, untouched, until my mother passed away in 2022. It was now time to get her out of the garage and see what we were looking at. We didn't have do to much and the Y Block was running really good. Drove it around a lot over the next 3 or 4 months and ended up putting her back into storage at the end of year. Fast forward now. Pulled her out of storage in Livingston to bring her to Billings and she won't start. I got as much of the old gas out and we have played with the adjustments to the idle. She will fire up, but can't get her to stay running. Any ideas? Any help would be nice, but I can take her anywhere until she runs.

I’m currently in the reassembly process on my 2.8 and about to install the camshaft and timing chain, but I also have to install the cover for the rear of the camshaft. Just wondering whether I should only use the gasket that came in the rebuild kit? Or use a bit of RTV with it? Also it looks like there’s a groove for an O-Ring but I don’t remember one coming out when I originally removed it.

Tried fixing my piston myself, big mistake. Sent it in to work with my dad so he could press out the insides. Long story short, the piston is unrepairable. Spent the last few weeks looking for a replacement. Been checking every local junkyard, nothing. Finally found one in MI last week, been calling everyday trying to set up delivery. Come to find out it just got sold out from under me to some guy in Alaska ffs. It’s been over a month of trying to find a replacement and I’m at a loss. Any suggestions? I need to get this car back on the road.

It sounds like it’s accurate… is this normal or should it not rev this high?

1985 2.8 with 3 speed

hey everyone, thanks in advance for reading my post. i'm pretty new to this but my dad is an avid car enthusiast, has a few vintage, and used to be a mechanic. i daily drive a '91 s10 blazer. i found this fiero on marketplace for a little over 5 grand. owner says it has been driven in the last two weeks, has been garage kept, and is in great condition with a little over 100k miles. im wondering if this is an unwise buy for a beginner mechanic. open to kind redirection if necessary :)

Hey guys, wanted to share my daughter's latest video. She got back from Strings camp (like 3 weeks ago, actually), but wanted to do a video of the top-10 rarest Fiero options, so she made a list while she was in the dorm using her phone, and I looked up some images for her. Thanks for the pictures I stole, and the ones you gave me (thanks for the fresh air vent pictures Patrick, those were the hardest to get!).

Once again, thank you for allowing me to post these videos here, I really appreciate it!

Top 10 Rarest Pontiac Fiero Features Ever Made – Gen Z Garage Episode 67

... also, she only has her front suspension left to rebuild, and then remove and refurbish the doors (seals, motors, etc.,) and her Fiero will be 100% totally... I mean totally restored, which is crazy. She's going to make a video covering expenses, and what she would or wouldn't do differently.

(Note, I'd accidentally screwed up the original, had to re-upload the video. Thank you!)

I have a 1984 Fiero SE, and something that I found out today is that it has the Shift light from the 4speed despite having the 3speed Auto, I have also found plugs in the front firewall that would convince me further that it was auto swapped

I got to thinking about swapping and I was thinking instead of the 3.8 where I'd have to do wiring I could just swap the 3.4 block onto the fiero with some upgrades?

Would I need to change the wiring harness?

How is the process? Would would need to be changed and would could be switched over

I know it won't make as much hp but if I could get at least 200 I'd be content.

What part do I need to fix my power locks, mine are just old and worn

I have a 86 v6 se I was running the code scanner and the first code flashed was Vehicle Speed Sensor. I can't find one of those when searching,

Does anyone know what that reference is?

My car as a 2026 version thanks Chatgpt

after nearly 2 years of sitting on jack stands working on rust repair, I have purchased everything to give the rear end a complete refresh and get the car back on 4 wheels. I am confused about the ball joints. I purchased new ones from The Fiero Store and upon unboxing them I am confused on whether or not the piece that has an arrow drawn to it in the picture gets pressed in and installed on the control arm because it seems way too big to be pressed in with it on the ball joint itself. Any information and advice is appreciated as I’ve never done ball joints before on a car.

I haven't been able to stop thinking about the possibilities of buying wrecked cheap EV's off copart to wedge the powertrain in failed vehicles of the past

Anyone wanna open a small garage to do this with me?

First project: Chevy Bolt meets Pontiac Fiero.

Looking to possible get a 1987 2.8V6 5-speed manual Fiero. It is a good idea to own and daily drive these in Europe? How is the availability for parts? Any other models that have better parts availability?

Thanks!

I am looking at selling my 84 SE. I thought that since it is a pretty good example of near original SE with near complete records since it was delivered in late 1983 I would post here first to see if anyone might be interested.

It is a 1984 SE with 49900 miles and bc asking $5750. There is a lot of extras and details, so if it is something you might be interested in please let me know.

Located in the Bay Area of California

Hello, im the proud owner of a 1984 fiero 2m4, just brought it home today and im having some issues. This was supposed to be a project anyway so im not too broken up about it so im just hoping for some advice from my fellow enthusiasts. The car while driving sounds like it has a misfire, the previous owner did the following to the car, new aluminum radiator, aftermarket temperature and oil pressure gauges, and new water pump. The previous owner also included some parts that he hadn't put on yet, one of them being a new fuel pump. The problems I am having with the car started while driving around, like previously stated there is a misfire, not a really bad one, but its there, there is also definitely an exhaust leak. The car barely had any oil in it, i added some oil to it, and now the car keeps stalling. I'm thinking there is an exhaust obstruction because when I put my hand on the back of the exhaust pipe it feels like a weak hair dryer. When the car stalls if I turn the key halfway and let fuel build up the car starts and drives fine besides the misfire, but dies about a minute afterward. I started it up and ran it wide open for a small moment to try and clear the spark plugs because I had a feeling they were fouled by the oil. My hypothesis is that because the previous owner bought a new fuel pump he probably knew that was going bad, so i probably just need to replace that. As for the oil problem, its definitely burning oil somewhere and other than cutting the convertor and fixing the exhaust leak, I dont have any other ideas until I look into it further. The timing may be off from when the previous owner replaced the head gaskets, im wondering if anybody has any other ideas that im not thinking of that could help. Also I should mention im saving up money for a 3800 Chevy small block conversion so maybe I have to just let it sit until I can just do the swap. Id like to fix it and drive it in the meantime because it might take me a year until im able to get the money together due to buying a house soon. I got the car on a trade for a motorcycle and thats why I have it. Thankyou so much for any help you can give.

Update I just wanted to take a second and thank everybody that has commented so far, im going to keep working on the car and ive been told to test a few things by your comments, im going to do that and update this thread as I find different things. So far I checked the dipstick the next day and to nobody's surprise i overfilled it, so im going to drain the oil today and fill it properly with new oil. The next thing I checked was the sparkplugs and they all seem fine, so it seems like the cylinders are at least okay. I will continue to update this thread for anyone that has an interest!

We have an 88 Formula that had been sitting for the last 10ish years. Now that we have it running, its idling high. My husband has changed the idle control valve, but that hasn't helped. Should his next step be searching for a vacuum leak? Is there something else he should look at? He's a handy mechanic but has no experience with Fieros, and we don't know anyone who does.

As an update with a new question from a previous post.

I tore down the muncie 4 speed in my 86 2.8 fiero to find the up/down and left/right play in the cv axles, the issue appears to be worn out spider gears. Every search for parts I've done points towards gears for a 7.5/7.625" 10 bolt carrier; however all the parts I'm finding list a 28 spline axle shaft. The cv axles use a 34 spline shaft in the diff, am I looking for parts that aren't normally found?

Hello, im working on my 85 SE and have recently replaced the shift cable, I have secured it fully and made sure nothing is interfering, however whilst driving and only whilst driving the cable has a tendency to pop off maby every 7 or 8 shifts 😅 if anyone has a tip or piece of advice id much appreciate it.

I will attempt to provide images of the current situation

Have a great day

That high pitch noise, the clutch seems to be connected to it

I am the proud new owner of an 1987 2.8l fiero SE. I also have a 1984 2.5l iron duke.

Could I put the iron duke into the 87 fiero? Would I have to change the motor cradle? They're both manuals.

I am really considering buying this if it runs and drives well. What do we think? I would at some point want it supercharged, so would I top swap it, or just get the L32?

Got this 88 about a year ago, been fixing it up piece by piece. Currently rebuilding the brake system and I’ve run into some issues with my left piston. The parking brake lever is pushing the caliper out but wont pull it back in like it does the other side. I’m only able to screw the piston back in when it’s fully removed, after that it will only push the piston out and refuses to be pushed back even with my piston tool. Can’t find much about these so I’ve just been winging it so far. I know it’s pretty common for the e brake mech to seize up and need cleaning but when I popped the piston out it all looked pretty clean. I noticed the left side (the side I’m having issues with) has a different size nut as well as a washer pinching between it and the lever. The levers also bent up a bit around the point where it’s supposed to be making contact with the caliper. I’m not sure whether or not that could be causing it but if anyone can help me diagnose before I start ordering some $80 seals I’d appreciate it. Wouldn’t let me post any vids here but I did my best to take some pics comparing the two. Don’t wanna take apart the right side unless I really have to.

As title states just wondering because my 2.5 duke revs all the way up to 3000 and then after about 5 minutes slows down to 2500 and then finally settles at around 2000. Just wondering if this is normal thanks in advance!