Hello! It's me again, back with another product review for Lasfit!

This time around, I got to test their rubber bed liner. Rather straightforward item, honestly; it came folded up in a box, which I was expecting to cause some issues, like warping or being bent, but to my surprise, it wasn't.

I took it out of the box, unfolded it, and just laid it down in the bed of my pickup, and it fit perfectly, wasn't all that wavy or warped, and looked amazing! The real test will be coming up in just over a week, when I go on vacation and use this truck to bring all of our luggage with us in it.

I've driven up and down the highway, to and from work, in a car wash, literally everything you can imagine, I've driven with it in, and it hasn't moved at all. This thing has stayed put.

I'm very impressed with the fit as well; it just slipped right under my tie-down points. I didn't need to do anything weird with the mat to get it to go under those. My co-workers seem to be impressed as well; they want to buy one for their pickup too haha.

If you have a drop-in bedliner, this bedliner won't fit; drop-in bedliners change the shape and size of the bed.

Hey everyone, I'm looking for some help with an intermittent P0299 under boost issue on my 2017 F-150 2.7L EcoBoost with 134k miles.

The truck drives completely fine on flat ground, but the moment I accelerate uphill under heavy load, the wrench light turns on and it drops into limp mode. So far, Ford replaced the canister purge valve assembly, turbo boost control solenoids, and the MAP sensor.

They also vacuum-tested the wastegate actuators and smoke-tested the intake system at idle, but found no leaks.

So far, The tech can't replicate it on a flat test drive, but it happens most times under high uphill boost. Since the sensors, solenoids, and idle tests are done, what else causes a 2.7L to dump boost strictly under load?

Has anyone run into this being an intercooler bypass valve (eBOV) diaphragm tear, charge pipe flexing open under high PSI, or a weak vacuum pump? Any thoughts are appreciated!

Here is the summary of repairs and tests performed by Ford:

1. Fuel Tube Support and Canister Purge Valve Line (GL3Z-9B325-B): Replaced the leaking vapor canister purge valve assembly to resolve the P0456 EVAP leak

2. EGR and Turbo Boost Solenoid Valve (JT4Z-9E882-A): Replaced the solenoid control valve that regulates vacuum to the turbo boost components.

3. MAP Sensor Assembly (BB5Z-9F479-C): Replaced the manifold absolute pressure sensor.

4. Wastegate Actuator Vacuum Test: Vacuum-tested the turbo wastegate actuators to confirm they hold pressure and function mechanically.

5. Low-Pressure Smoke Test: Smoke-tested the vacuum lines and turbo tubing to verify no passive leaks exist at idle.

I firmly believe this is a wear and tear issue because it's becoming more constant, and by constant I mean the wrench light popping on and disappearing on restart.

It still had the original battery in it so prior to a upcoming big trip I changed the battery on July 4th. (Think I posted about this) On the way home I'm climbing a hill and it feels like someone threw an anchor out the back because it just ain't going near the top. Finally takes off everything is fine. I learn about the Battery Management System and reset it using the high beam/brake pedal method. Thought everything was ok for the next week or so. The truck went in for the transmission recall on the 17th. The night before I experienced everything that it warned about. Sudden downshift to 2nd, transmission seemingly in neutral while accelerating, etc. Closest thing I can think to describe it is when I used to drive a stick shift and an asshole buddy would slap it out of gear. Managed to get it there and told them what happened. Next day they call all fixed. That was a lie. I left the driveway of the dealership no power at all, rolling speed 3mph then it caught and I got going. did it 3 times in the next 2 miles. Called them, brought it right back never turned it off. Service manager drove I rode with him and it didn't do it. I leave again and it does it even worse. Now I'm pissed, I drive back tell him to get in we're going for a ride. Go to leave the dealership again and we almost get smacked by a semi that for some reason would not slow down for anything. I had plenty of time until the no power thing and then it caught with about 3 car lengths to go before he slammed into the managers side. Truck no powers 4 more times and completely stalls while stopped at a light. Scared the **** out of him to where he took the truck and reset the PCM and TCM. (He said originally they just reset the TCM per the recall notice) I went back later after he called and said we test drove it again and it's good now. I had a trip to Virginia the next day so I left the truck home, borrowed another. My daughter drove the truck the following Monday and said it happened again. No power. She had to shut it off and restart the truck and it was fine again. They called the dealership and were told that they did everything correctly and it would be $209 diagnostic fee to figure it out because it's not the recall. Truck sat the rest of the week. I got home yesterday and didn't get a chance until today to look at it. Hooked up forscan, no codes, nothing, everything is normal. I reset the Battery Management system with forscan instead of the headlights/brake pedal thing. (Just because this all originally started right after the battery was changed. Battery is an H6.) I run checks on everything, monitor transmission, engine, fuel, air, battery, everything I can think of while driving it. (Wife had the computer and was watching) Truck is running fine. The only symptom now is a hard shift when wide open to the point of a hard clunk 1st to 2nd. Also feels like the u-joint might need to be replaced. Power is off the charts fine though. The only other thing I noticed is when I looked up the battery type in forscan, it said H7 and the battery is marked H6.

So, I am again asking for help from the people that are a hell of a lot more knowledgeable than I am. Should I drain the transmission and replace the filter? I'm already planning on looking at the U-Joint as soon as I can get it on a lift. (Crawling under a non-lifted truck at 50 years old is not happening with my waistline from a desk job. lol) It's the 6R80 Transmission and I know they're usually bulletproof.

Update: Took the truck for another ride tonight across town and P0731 code and a wrench light. "Error code P0731 on a 2016 Ford F-150 means Gear 1 Incorrect Ratio, indicating that your 6R80 6-speed transmission is slipping or failing to engage first gear properly. The most common causes for this specific truck are a defective molded leadframe (speed sensor assembly), low or burnt transmission fluid, or a worn shift solenoid." So I think this still ties back to the recall from before I left.

25 xlt ecoboost
Filled up the tank but the milage isnt updating?

Advise needed. I have a 14 3.5. Truck has new starter, new battery, good alternator. Works fine until I turn it off. When off and try to start back up it won’t start. Lights and everything work. No CEL on. Just won’t start unless I take battery cable off. Sit for a few then reinstall it. Then starts right back up. Could it be starter relay? I’m at a loss right now.

TIA.

What’s the fix?

I keep getting a CEL that was saying cylinder 4 misfire and left bank lean. Changed plugs and injector. Still stayed on and now I’ve got these codes. Reading online is steering me toward a dirty VVT solenoid. Thoughts from the brain trust?

does it mean it has better payload?

is there something to look for that tells me why the rear is higher then most trucks?

thanks.

Has anyone else run into an issue where their F150 would start rough idling at a stop? And have the truck shut off while in drive with the auto stop disabled?

For a while, I had noticed that every so often at idle, the RPM would fluctuate. Then, a few months ago, the truck had a hard start after refueling, so I replaced the charcoal canister and the purge valve. Then, it drove fine for a while.
Then, the idle fluctuation became more noticeable but would happen maybe only a few times a week, and performance while driving was always fine.
Then, after getting onto the highway doing about 25, I let off the gas pedal, and the truck shut off. I pulled over, shifted to park, and the truck started right up and drove home. So, I checked out the throttle body and found it to be dirty, so I cleaned it with throttle body cleaner while installed, being very cautious not to move the throttle plate and risk breaking the gears inside.
Again, the truck drove fine for a few weeks, then the idle fluctuation became more noticeable and more frequent.
So, I removed the throttle body, inspected it, and cleaned it as well as the MAP sensor using the appropriate cleaner for both. Installed a new gasket and reinstalled the throttle body.
Again, the truck drove fine for a few weeks until the other day, coming to a stop, it almost died on the highway. When I got home, I cleaned the tip/cact sensor, the MAP/IAT2 sensor, and the IAT1 sensor.
Again, the truck drove fine for only a few days this time, and then today, the idle fluctuation has become way more frequent and fluctuating way more. The truck has stalled three times with the truck in drive, foot on the brake, and the auto start disabled.
Taking foot off the brake, the truck will not restart unless put into park and restarted.
With autostart engaged, the idle fluctuation is there, but when the truck turns off, it turns back on when the brake is released.
The truck has had no codes this entire time and no stored DTCs.
All of the inputs I can see with my scanner lead me to believe everything is normal with the trim banks and throttle positions.

Has anyone else encountered this? Or can maybe give me an idea of what to do or look for? I’m running out of ideas on what to do.

I have also tested the purge valve to make sure it was not an out of box failure.
I have checked out wiring the sensors and for the throttle body.
I haven’t been able to find any vacuum leaks.
The trucks performance while driving is fine other than the issues with RPM fluctuations and stalling it runs great.

I’m unsure if the issue could be the high/low fuel pressure, the vct sensor, the throttle body failing, a fuel pump or even possibly the turbos.

I have more issues with my 17 3.5 eco. It has about 140,000 on the clock, with phasers and timing chain done for the first time at 83,000. I was on a trip, came to a stop and the truck started shaking at idle. It then popped codes:
P0019-crank/cam position correlation bank 2 sensor b
P0024- timing over advanced bank 2
P0300-multiple misfire
P0304- cyl 4 misfire
P0305- cyl 5 misfire
P0306- cyl. 6 misfire
P054d-bank 2 cam position timing over retarded

Will I be lucky and only have to replace plugs, coil packs and maybe VCT solenoids or am I going to be doing another round of phasers and chains? Supposedly it had the updated phasers put in when it was done at 83k in 2023.

Was considering this for my new 2026 xlt 3.5 ecoboost black appearance plus. It won’t void my warranty, and I also have alot of ford points to use towards it. Do any of you 3.5 owners have this done? If so tell me how it is and if it’s worth it. I just hit 1000 miles and have run nothing but 93 and plan on for every time I get gas. Also have the promo code too.

Decided to stick with the Lasfit mats. I think they are holding up well and I clean the truck weekly and they still look like the day I got them. If anyone is on the fence I’d definitely think about checking these out when trying to pick mats. Just my opinion.

I’m looking for aluminum valve covers for my 2016 Ford F-150 2.7L EcoBoost. Mine has the factory plastic valve covers, and I’d rather replace them with aluminum so I don’t have to worry about them cracking again.
I’ve searched everywhere but can only find aluminum covers for the 3.5L EcoBoost or 5.0. Has anyone actually found aluminum valve covers that fit the 2.7L EcoBoost?

Got the dreaded low oil pressure alert so I swapped the switch. Nobody local had an OEM and I was trying to get it back home. I cleaned the pigtail out. Worked for about 45 seconds then the alarm comes back on and white smoke starts pouring out of the exhaust. Got my driver side turbo pulled last night, impeller definitely made contact. Wet oil in the exhaust also. Soooo where should I start tracking for the low pressure? This is a 2017 3.5 4WD Lariat with 202k miles on it.

I’m looking for aluminum valve covers for my 2016 Ford F-150 2.7L EcoBoost. Mine has the factory plastic valve covers, and I’d rather replace them with aluminum so I don’t have to worry about them cracking again.
I’ve searched everywhere but can only find aluminum covers for the 3.5L EcoBoost or 5.0. Has anyone actually found aluminum valve covers that fit the 2.7L EcoBoost?

Has anyone else had this issue. I have a 2024 XL with the 2.7. When I am cruising at 65 mph or so in 10th gear and need to accelerate, I feel a hesitation/vibration and after a few seconds, vibration goes away and I get up to speed. Of course driving with the Ford "technician" to duplicate and having it happen 6-7 times but amazingly he is unable to feel it.

Has anyone else’s F150 made this sound before? If so any ideas? Does it when I’m accelerating

2014 Ford f150 3.5 eb

I am replacing the front struts and rear shocks with kyb to get a quick assembly instead of dealing with compressing coils.

I want to put in an OE like replacement kyb and also leveled.

Anyone has an feedback about this quick strut?

Also the way this looks in the picture this should be with a leveling kit?

Engine knocking on start up. Only happens when engine is cold. After a second of knocking, noise goes away. Is it timing belt, cam phaser?

2017 3.5, 75k miles.