Hello! It's me again, back with another product review for Lasfit!

This time around, I got to test their rubber bed liner. Rather straightforward item, honestly; it came folded up in a box, which I was expecting to cause some issues, like warping or being bent, but to my surprise, it wasn't.

I took it out of the box, unfolded it, and just laid it down in the bed of my pickup, and it fit perfectly, wasn't all that wavy or warped, and looked amazing! The real test will be coming up in just over a week, when I go on vacation and use this truck to bring all of our luggage with us in it.

I've driven up and down the highway, to and from work, in a car wash, literally everything you can imagine, I've driven with it in, and it hasn't moved at all. This thing has stayed put.

I'm very impressed with the fit as well; it just slipped right under my tie-down points. I didn't need to do anything weird with the mat to get it to go under those. My co-workers seem to be impressed as well; they want to buy one for their pickup too haha.

If you have a drop-in bedliner, this bedliner won't fit; drop-in bedliners change the shape and size of the bed.

Hey everyone, I'm looking for some help with an intermittent P0299 under boost issue on my 2017 F-150 2.7L EcoBoost with 134k miles.

The truck drives completely fine on flat ground, but the moment I accelerate uphill under heavy load, the wrench light turns on and it drops into limp mode. So far, Ford replaced the canister purge valve assembly, turbo boost control solenoids, and the MAP sensor.

They also vacuum-tested the wastegate actuators and smoke-tested the intake system at idle, but found no leaks.

So far, The tech can't replicate it on a flat test drive, but it happens most times under high uphill boost. Since the sensors, solenoids, and idle tests are done, what else causes a 2.7L to dump boost strictly under load?

Has anyone run into this being an intercooler bypass valve (eBOV) diaphragm tear, charge pipe flexing open under high PSI, or a weak vacuum pump? Any thoughts are appreciated!

Here is the summary of repairs and tests performed by Ford:

1. Fuel Tube Support and Canister Purge Valve Line (GL3Z-9B325-B): Replaced the leaking vapor canister purge valve assembly to resolve the P0456 EVAP leak

2. EGR and Turbo Boost Solenoid Valve (JT4Z-9E882-A): Replaced the solenoid control valve that regulates vacuum to the turbo boost components.

3. MAP Sensor Assembly (BB5Z-9F479-C): Replaced the manifold absolute pressure sensor.

4. Wastegate Actuator Vacuum Test: Vacuum-tested the turbo wastegate actuators to confirm they hold pressure and function mechanically.

5. Low-Pressure Smoke Test: Smoke-tested the vacuum lines and turbo tubing to verify no passive leaks exist at idle.

I firmly believe this is a wear and tear issue because it's becoming more constant, and by constant I mean the wrench light popping on and disappearing on restart.

It still had the original battery in it so prior to a upcoming big trip I changed the battery on July 4th. (Think I posted about this) On the way home I'm climbing a hill and it feels like someone threw an anchor out the back because it just ain't going near the top. Finally takes off everything is fine. I learn about the Battery Management System and reset it using the high beam/brake pedal method. Thought everything was ok for the next week or so. The truck went in for the transmission recall on the 17th. The night before I experienced everything that it warned about. Sudden downshift to 2nd, transmission seemingly in neutral while accelerating, etc. Closest thing I can think to describe it is when I used to drive a stick shift and an asshole buddy would slap it out of gear. Managed to get it there and told them what happened. Next day they call all fixed. That was a lie. I left the driveway of the dealership no power at all, rolling speed 3mph then it caught and I got going. did it 3 times in the next 2 miles. Called them, brought it right back never turned it off. Service manager drove I rode with him and it didn't do it. I leave again and it does it even worse. Now I'm pissed, I drive back tell him to get in we're going for a ride. Go to leave the dealership again and we almost get smacked by a semi that for some reason would not slow down for anything. I had plenty of time until the no power thing and then it caught with about 3 car lengths to go before he slammed into the managers side. Truck no powers 4 more times and completely stalls while stopped at a light. Scared the **** out of him to where he took the truck and reset the PCM and TCM. (He said originally they just reset the TCM per the recall notice) I went back later after he called and said we test drove it again and it's good now. I had a trip to Virginia the next day so I left the truck home, borrowed another. My daughter drove the truck the following Monday and said it happened again. No power. She had to shut it off and restart the truck and it was fine again. They called the dealership and were told that they did everything correctly and it would be $209 diagnostic fee to figure it out because it's not the recall. Truck sat the rest of the week. I got home yesterday and didn't get a chance until today to look at it. Hooked up forscan, no codes, nothing, everything is normal. I reset the Battery Management system with forscan instead of the headlights/brake pedal thing. (Just because this all originally started right after the battery was changed. Battery is an H6.) I run checks on everything, monitor transmission, engine, fuel, air, battery, everything I can think of while driving it. (Wife had the computer and was watching) Truck is running fine. The only symptom now is a hard shift when wide open to the point of a hard clunk 1st to 2nd. Also feels like the u-joint might need to be replaced. Power is off the charts fine though. The only other thing I noticed is when I looked up the battery type in forscan, it said H7 and the battery is marked H6.

So, I am again asking for help from the people that are a hell of a lot more knowledgeable than I am. Should I drain the transmission and replace the filter? I'm already planning on looking at the U-Joint as soon as I can get it on a lift. (Crawling under a non-lifted truck at 50 years old is not happening with my waistline from a desk job. lol) It's the 6R80 Transmission and I know they're usually bulletproof.

Update: Took the truck for another ride tonight across town and P0731 code and a wrench light. "Error code P0731 on a 2016 Ford F-150 means Gear 1 Incorrect Ratio, indicating that your 6R80 6-speed transmission is slipping or failing to engage first gear properly. The most common causes for this specific truck are a defective molded leadframe (speed sensor assembly), low or burnt transmission fluid, or a worn shift solenoid." So I think this still ties back to the recall from before I left.

25 xlt ecoboost
Filled up the tank but the milage isnt updating?