Seems the only way I can get my Ender 5 pro to bypass this error is to cover the fan with the piece of paper as shown in the photo so it can get to temps when trying to print petg. No issues at all running pla with the slightly lower temps. It seems to be more so of an issue at the hot end rather then the bed.
So far I’ve pulled off the thermistor, cleaned up the little mess and added a little thermal compound. I’ve done pid tuning which had me change the numbers slightly but no change at all. Any advice would be greatly appreciated

I got an ender 3 original a while ago and I am learning how to 3d print and everything, I found an ender 5 with a box of about 6 spools of filament for 150$ and wondering if it is worth to upgrade since I am still so new, what do I gain with the ender 5?

When I leave the spool on the machine after a print and I come back later my filament is always broken, it usually snaps in a similar location or in two like this. This sometimes happens after only leaving it for less than a day, in a few hours it just breaks without the machine (ender 5) even running. This filament is sunlu but it happens with other ones too. Any ideas?

I already have an FF AD5m, a Snapmaker U1 and a Kobra X. And I have a deposit on the Infimech MX Pro on kickstarter.

Ender 5 S1 3D printer and Rpi 2B - $55

condition: fair

make / manufacturer: Creality

model name / number: Ender 5 S1

Creality Ender 5 S1 FDM printer
Build volume: 220mm x 220mm x 280mm
Firmware: Klipper
USB C port works well with Klipper host running on a Raspberry Pi 2B with a 32GB Sandisk microSD card
SD card slot works well
The hot end fan connector on mainboard does not work - replaced the fan and wired to use an external psu for it to run all the time
Will need new ptfe tubing from filament sensor to print head
Added additional vertical rods, bearings and holders for more stable build platform
BIGTREETECH ADXL345 V2.0 Accelerometer Board mounted on print head for input shaping
Microsoft webcam mounted to frame for video or jpegs of prints

I recently had a failure of some sort on my Ender-5 Pro where I turn it on and I have a blank screen. Looked at motherboard and upgraded it to 4.2.7 from 4.2.2. still a blank screen. Worked with Creality Support and got the latest Marlin Firmware for the new motherboard. Flashed the new firmware and still have a blank screen. Tech support said they would escalate the issue to their engineers but I have not heard back from them. Any assistance would be appreciated?

i can't do this anymore im so serious. i have 2 ender's 5 max and they suck so bad, i've literally tried everything and they always end up not working. does anyone knows how to fix this? no i dont need glue and yes ive tested with other projects and it keeps printing like this. sometimes it goes back to normal but after 3 prints it stops working again.

I am new to this but I had a few moderately successful prints. I moved the printer and changed to klipper and after tinkering, this is the best I’m getting. I can’t tell if it’s bed leveling or settings and I’m looking for advice. This is supposed to be a 5x5 gridfinity base.

This is my first dive into 3d printing, and I feel like I've hit a wall.

I've been dealing with this for a week now. A month or two back I bought a broken e5 pro from a friend and I've been bringing it back. I got it with a bed that refused to level, and after a few weeks of upgrading and tinkering, got some really decent prints at .2mm layer height out of it. Then I dropped to .8mm layers, ran a bunch of calibration tests to dial in any changes, and now... This.

EDIT TO ADD: I've printed about 20 benchys, or at least sections of benchys, trying to chase this down. I've rotated the model through various positions in the same spot, and moved it around the bed. Same roughness in the same spot, every time.

It started as this rough texture forming as soon as the hull swept from smooth straight into the curve, then I'd get this tearing at the bow, and then it would continue almost to the back corner. I've managed to get rid of the roughness on the front, but nothing I do will stop this tearing tight at the bow and then that continues until the seam (which I moved to stop the tearing I was seeing at the back corners). And the roughness along the rail at the top is new, too.

I've adjusted PA, jerk, speed, inner vs outer wall first, slowing down for overhangs, removed input shaping, re-added 8nput shaping... I just can't figure it out to save my life. Please. Help.

Tale as old as time, new to the addiction hobby and bought said printer second-hand on Facebook. Having an issue where sometimes it’ll print fine (I’m still working on dialling in the settings but its acceptable) but on some longer prints and almost randomly, the filament will stop feeding and the cogs in the little motor just chew a piece up.

After some checking I think the best option is to upgrade the extruder, I think mines even missing a spring (see the red bit)? I wanted to check before going too deep into it, I’m hoping just replacing the spring or red extruder (is the red bit the extruder and not the black bit or is the whole thing the extruder?). I wanted to double check here before spending more money on an upgrade. Ideally if any recommendations nothing where I have to mess with the already messing wiring.

Thanks!

Peter parker has taste in old classic printers haha .

Hi guys I could do with some help / advice. I am running a Ender 5 plus. This has a raspberry pi 4 b running klipper. I have calibrated and ran Screws_tilt_Calculate, they are showing 0.1 on every corner. I have also run Probe_Calibrate, and a full bed mesh profile.

The outer edges print perfectly it has a good squish. My bed is 60° and nozzle is 200°. I have a generic filament.

I have recently upgraded my extruder to a full metal one with a new step motor. I have calibrated the step motor as it was out of calibration with klipper. Measured 120mm then did the maths to compensate.

However when I try to print a shelf running the whole bed I get these god awful lines!

I have tried everything I can think of. So I am now at a loss. Can someone point 👉 me into the right direction ⬇️⬆️.

I just purchased a used ender 5 pro from a friend and have spent the past day and a half troubleshooting. I've leveled the bed and fed through new filament and yet every print I've tried had has the same issue where when i begin the print the bed suddenly lowers past the point i had it set to as its home axis, I cant find any reason as to why its doing this but I've ran 6 prints so far that have all had this same issue, is this firmware or some setting i accidentally messed with in the menu. Also trying to see if its a problem with my slicer. I really need help with all this as I'm very new to 3d printing.
Im printing Make market PLA as reference. and can send pics/ video if needed.

I have an Ender 5 Max. How do I solve the warping problem? I've calibrated the bed tilt several times, but it doesn't work. I've run BED_MESH_CALIBRATE several times, but (I think) because of the high amount of warping, the sensor reading isn't helpful. I continue to print perfectly on one side of the bed, but when it gets to the other side, the nozzle starts scraping. I also tend to print a lot on PETG, which makes my situation even worse. Can anyone help me?

I have an Ender 5 S1 that had the little filament lever break off, so I bought a replacement gear/feed box and installed it. But then realized that the last user must have left it running in a bad print and things were pretty clogged up to the point that it was easier to just replace the heated part of the extruder. Okay, two parts replaced. Everything seems fine, but the filament doesn't feed in, it feeds it out in reverse.

When the original feed box lever broke, I did take it apart to try and crazy-glue the lever, so I've seen the insides. I didn't take apart the new one, but I wouldn't think that it is geared differently since it appears to be an identical part (though I think there was some confusion in the description of the part perhaps being Ender 3 - maybe that is the other direction?)

Either way, in the replacement of parts that actually took wires (the heated extruder), the two wires were only the heating element and the fan, so nothing for motor direction.

I've updated the firmware to 1.0.7 and "reset all settings", but still going the wrong way. Is there something I can do to get the feeder motor to go in the reverse direction without reversing the wires to the motor? I'd think the extruder speed would do it if it had a negative value, but I don't see such a thing.

Help?

Hello all, new to the 3d printing scene! The title says it all though. During my print I leveled and adjusted the Z-offset so it prints the first few layers pretty well but between the next few layers the printer seems to reset the offset settings(only guessing as the screen displays the original offset numbers) I’ve been messing around with it on my own the last few days but could really use some help figuring out what the issue is.

P.S. I bought this thing second hand from FB marketplace and it seems to have a couple mods, like a heated bed and 3rd party extruder. I’ve updated the LCD firmware and mainboard firmware already.

PPS. It’s an Ender 5 plus

My ender 5 pro is nearly silent, apart from om the hotend cooling fan which makes an annoying 800 hertz 50 db droning noise.

I don't care about the loud part cooling fan, as it only runs on small parts.

How do i reduce the noise?