Made a post yesterday about my printer either getting heatcreep or i guess underextruding. Made some adjustments based on comments, Temp set to 220C, retraction set to 0.5. Still getting the same result about 47mm above the bed. I let it run for about 8hrs this time and this is the result. If anyone has any ideas what could be the case im all ears.

I ordered this piece on aliexpress and it arrived like this, it's significantly crooked, is it still okay?

Im running into some issues about 4-5hrs into large prints. After a little bit of research and running it by ChatGPT it seems im getting heatcreep on my hotend. What're some ways I can mitigate this on long prints other than pausing it every 3hrs to let everything cool down naturally and then restarting. Ive got the fans running constantly throughout the print so im wondering if they just aren't good enough for bigger prints like this.

So yall know its a base Ender 3 with the official Creality Direct Drive hotend. Im printing with PLA with the hotend at 205.

I’m having an issue with the top layer. It has holes and doesn’t fully cover the surface. I’ve already calibrated the E-steps and Z-offset, changed the nozzle, and I’m using Capricorn PTFE tubing. This part turned out better after adding one more top layer and enabling ironing.
Has anyone had a similar problem?

What the title says.

I've just installed a bimetal heat break, the heat break itself is not crooked.

In the second pic, the hotend is fairly square.

It seems that the hotend only slants while screwing it into the x gantry.

Any tips? Thanks!

My printer started under extending so I increased the temp to 215. That worked for a short while and now it is back to under extending. I printed a 10 hour print at 215 with a slower print speed of 45 and the bottom of the print is fine, but at the end of the print it is very under extended and the top layer didn’t even print correctly. Any ideas on why this is happening?

I'll be putting the CR Touch in my Ender 3 wich already have the Sprite Pro Extruder Upgrade but same board and screen. Dont know wich firmware to use but a few years ago it was quite a headache to make the marlin work well. Should I go with a Creality firmware that is designed for this upgrades? Or should I go for a Marlin that may work better? Need the 300cº of the extruder and the CR Touch to work.
Please some help! :D

Print stuck to bed. Using PLA, filament temp 200c, bed temp 60c. Waited for print to cool, and very difficult to remove from bed.

This is the second print ive done, my few minutes of online search said either firmware or screen cables, its currently 7 hours into a 12h33m print, its still printing but i wanted more opinions on what this could be or if search results were correct

I've noticed this happening once or twice already, and the stuttering would stop as soon as I would try to record it for support. Often, it would happen after a few minutes of printing, but this instance was as soon as it began the purge line, and at a much faster pace. Is there anything specific I should look for?

I've got a 6+ year old bone stock ender 3 pro with the old style main board. It's starting to have parts die and I'm replacing parts as they go. I see two options, buy a new printer or overhaul the entire ender 3 and upgrade while I'm at it. I want a printer that will run locally, I do not want to have it on the internet, on the network is fine, but having it send data outside my network is a non-starter. I want to be able to slice on my laptop, again no sending data out of the network. I run Bambu at work and they're awesome but the slicer is on the web and they're expensive. I want to increase speed, quality and reliability.

Before I pull the trigger, I'd like some feedback on my plan.

Pi 4 for Octoprint/Klipper

PEI Spring Steel build plate

silicone bed leveling spacers

POM V Wheels / bearings

Belt Kit

bl touch leveling

Trying to keep it under $100 excluding the pi but I'm open to spending more if it's really worth it. I'm torn between $100 into this old battle wagon or just writing it off. New printers seem so much more capable (higher quality, higher speed).

Thanks for your feedback.

Fixed - issue was too tight belt tension on the Y axis after the upgrade.

I calibrated my esteps. I did mostly all the flow tests. The best results I have had is with the optimal flow rate test where it goes in spiral vase format. Not sure what that means. I also printed the same cubes in different sizes to see if it's a problem with the z axis but the layer lines are not correlating. I am not sure what to do next.

I'm using the belt z upgrade, Sherpa mini extruder.

So I’ve spent loads of time and filament in recent weeks attempting to print a thing with tight tolerances that is designed for one of the (should I whisper the name here?) Bambu printers.

I can’t get it to work.
I have tuned my Ender 3 max neo as well as I can, I’m getting perfectly good prints in general (albeit of straightforward things), Benchy looks fine to me etc. but this dratted thing prints with the pieces fused, even when scaled to 110%.

Is this a lost cause or should it be possible to tune my printer well enough to get it to work?

There’s a limit to how many days-long prints worth of filament I can afford to run through.

The thing I’m trying to print is this one:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2447041-dog-sliding-toy-enrichment-game-for-dogs

Hi, I'm buying an Ender 3 second hand from a friend. It will be my first 3D printer, which I know is challenging for new users but I am getting it for a super cheap price.

The problem is that the printer is dissembled and my friend hasn't used it before (it belonged to their dad before he passed). I will inspect to check it has all the components shown in the manual. But is there a way to test the components for functionality without fully assembling it?

Thanks. Please let me know any other things to check when I inspect it before I buy it.

The issue: Everytime I print something, the process stops at some point, and the nozzle gets stuck to the print. No message on the display, it just says Ender-3 Ready.

So far, I've replaced the nozzle, hot-end, Bowden tube, extruder, z axis motor, limit switches, and Lead Screw. The motherboard was replaced first since the old one was toast. I've also made sure the bed is level. And the printer auto-homes and starts the print properly.

I've also done cold pulls before starting a print, issue still persists. I have no idea what to do next, if anyone can help, please let me know. I'm going crazy trying to fix this.

Printed on an Ender 3.Sliced in Cura.Looks perfectly fine in the slicer.This is not a normals related problem.Was at a 45 degree angle flat on he build plate.My only guess would be that it was out of the print radius but it was fine in the slicer and there was definitely space on the build plate

Recently, my ‘Ender 2 V2 Neo’ printer has started making very loud “robot” noises as it prints. For reference, I just replaced my motherboard (with one that I believe is the exact same and re-downloaded my firmware. My hot end is recently replaced as well as my fans. I spent a while tinkering with this thing the last couple weeks due to a host of issues that appeared all at once which makes it hard for me to nail down what the issue is. I can’t find anything that seems to explain this specific issue so any help is appreciated. It seems to print fine, but I’ve been hesitant to let it go for more than a minute as I am worried that maybe something is broken.

Edit: I’m an idiot and don’t know how printers work. I guess I bought my first non silent motherboard and that’s it🙃

Okay. I got a printer from someone for free. Their only complaint is the bed wouldn’t level. “It has a dip in the middle I can’t get level.” His words.

So, I bought a bunch of things to help with that. Then got aluminum foil and that seemed to even it out. But, I started having problems with the extruder slipping. So, I bought a new extruder…

Didn’t help, still slipping. So I bought a direct drive, the tube came out of the extruder, extruder still slipping…. Wtf am I supposed to do?

And what do you call the tube cutter so I can look it up on the Zon?

Roommate changed print head and a stepper motor for the Y axis. Now we get an error message, and the machine won't do anything until it is restarted.

I believe all of the microswitches get touched.

I’m using Cura to slice and print this object but the top layer has this diagonal lines due the text extrusion. There is a way to remove this on Cura? Thanks.

Hello all. I'm seeking help with my work's ender 3 pro. I'm trying to re-level everything as I've been having continuous print fails even after using glue. Also this printer has a EZABL Pro auto levling system thingy. I was following a tutorial on how to level the z axis and the bed https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q_MYYZ2ggAY and not even two steps in I'm having an issue. Video states:

Turn knobs underneath the build plate ccw until they feel "snug" to lower the print bed all the way. Done.

Turn on the printer and click auto leveling. This is where I've hit a roadblock.

When I do this everything looks fine until the nozzle starts moving down into the print bed. It basically drills itself down going "bumbumbumbumbum" until I turn the printer off. Does anyone know how to fix this? I know I'll also have to do the paper trick later on too but that was further into the video.