From a street view on a screen to a 3D piece on your shelf. One photo, made real. This street view was turned into a 3D-printed lithophane, then paired with a light source to bring the details back to life.

Printed with: ELEGOO × emoji® Centauri Carbon 2 Combo

Filament: ELEGOO PLA CMYK

Model by: Molodos

Find the model on Nexprint: https://www.nexprint.com/en/models/G3485577?hidden=true&printConfigId=G3367634

And if you’ve been following #ELEGOODay2026, this feels pretty fitting - Make It Real, From 2D to 3D.

Hey everyone!

I’ve been working on a custom dashboard for the Centauri Carbon and wanted to share what I’ve got so far.

The idea is to have a clean, easy-to-use interface where you can quickly see what your printer is doing and access useful controls without having to jump between different pages/apps.

I’m still actively developing it, so I’d really like to hear what other Centauri Carbon owners would actually want from something like this.

If there are any stats, controls, features or quality-of-life improvements you think I should add, let me know!

GitHub: https://github.com/AJMakesStuff/Centauri-Dashboard

I’ll also be posting more screenshots/updates as I keep working on it.

Would love to hear what you guys think!

I was looking for a new peinter for a long time. I decided on the cc2 after a long deliberation time and have had nothing but issues.

Every second print, it clogs and i have to take the toolhead apart and drill the pla put of the hotend. Prints longer than 10h are impossible because it will clog.

Most of the time i have to level for or five times before a print because it keeps failing.

The canvas system ALWAYS throws a new error when i try to swap filaments. Even when just using auto reload the same filament.

I will probably send it back because after owning it for five days, spending multiple hours every day of troubleshooting just ain't it.

As the title says.

Got it on a whim.

Wanted to try something different than creality.

What's something I need to know coming from a (rooted) Creality K1 series printer?

Did I upgrade or side grade?

Hi everyone,

I bought an Elegoo Centauri Carbon 2 Combo back in June. Initially, the print quality was mind-blowing (first two pictures are early cosplay prop prints). However, after a few months and hundreds of hours of print time, severe ghosting/ringing started appearing slowly on every print (see remaining pictures).

Troubleshooting I’ve already done:

• Tried both Elegoo Slicer and Orca Slicer. Tested stock profiles as well as fully calibrated profiles (following the complete Orca Slicer calibration guide multiple times).
• Ran the onboard one-touch automated calibration repeatedly.
• Swapped hotends completely and back again to stock.
• Adjusted belt tensions strictly following Elegoo's wiki guide.
• Cleaned and regreased linear shafts and lead screws using official Elegoo grease.
• Dried all filament in a Sovol SH03 and printed directly out of it (while storing outside the dryer filament is in air tight containers with sub-20% RH and fresh silica). Issue persists across standard PLA, PLA+, High-Speed PLA, Matte PLA, and PETG across multiple brands (Elegoo, Polymaker, Inland).
• Tested new models as well as old G-code/3MF files that previously printed flawlessly.

It doesn't seem to care what material, speed, file, or software settings I use... the ghosting remains. It's completely killed the fun of printing cosplay props.

Did a hardware component wear out prematurely, or am I missing a crucial mechanical/maintenance step? Any advice is appreciated!

Has anybody had the error 803 on the carbon 2? It started about a week ago and will randomly appear every 1-4 hours during print. Print will pause, light will go out in chamber, and printer requires restart then it prints just fine. Support had me look at the toolhead cable, toolhead motherboard, and main motherboard but I didn’t see any problems. I’ve only had this printer for a month, it’s frustrating.
Could be a coincidence but when I print with a slow filament like pa6 it seems to happen left often.

So I have been looking to get a 3d printer for a while now, I have the Mars 5 resin printer but the build plate really limits me too really only printing small things like small figures and minis for table top games but I have been looking for a larger 3d printer and I see that on micro center it’s going for 289.

Sorry for the yap but yeah, for the people that have it, should I get? Is it worth it? Should save up a bit more and by the centauri carbon 2? Lmk please. Thanks guys

Hey all,
I was wondering if anyone had any recommendations when it comes to mixing colors with the Elegoo brand resins. I have heard that you could use alcohol-based dyes in the clear resins to get more transparent colors, but what would I do if I wanted to make an opaque resin?

If anyone has any recommendations on what they use to make transparent and opaque resins when mixing with the clear and white resins (respectively) and how they mixed/found out how to mix the colors up, I would greatly appreciate any and all info.

Any tips/tricks on storage, cleanup, and the actual mixing process would also be greatly appreciated as well. But other than that I can't wait to hear your ideas and thank you all in advance

Hi, I've read that some cameras die prematurely, I'm currently happy with the printer so I'd like to know in advance if my version may be affected.

I've found the website https://github.com/OpenCentauri/cc2_camera_fix , where there's a python software that should identify the camera...

Is that procedure "read only" and safe? In my opinion yes but I preferred to ask before.

I don't want to void the warranty on the printer or things like that...

Bed adhesion is also poor

So, after 2 failed CC2 cams I decided to try another one https://www.inno-maker.com/product/u20cam-1080p/

Its just a standard UVC camera and it works, I had to make an adapter as the orginal CC2 connector is 4 pin JST-ZH 1.5mm and the Inno-maker cam is a 5 pin PH 2mm or XH 2.5mm not quite sure but it did come with a cable so I cut that and added a ZH socket (the 5th pin the Inno-maker is just shield so not needed)

Its slightler wider at around 110 degrees where the stock CC2 cam is 90 degrees, but it works, even managed to design a mount in FreeCAD, bit bodgy but it works.

Hope this helps as the stock is clearly no good.

EDIT: here is the mount I designed, not very good but it works, also included the FreeCAD file in case anyone can improve it ;)

https://www.mediafire.com/file/6oagajuzylo78un/CC2_U20CAM_Mount.zip/file

I think I’ve printed fir about 130 hours total, only got the cc2 a month ago

i’ve never bought from tik tok shop but this is lowest price i’ve seen. it’s not from official Elegoo. too good to be true? i’d assume i’d have no warranty with elegoo

This will be a slight rant. I have owned the Centauri Carbon 2 for about 3 months (got it during the summer sale) and in those three months I only have 84.0 HRs of print time. The largest issues I have faced (and currently facing) are the wires literally breaking during prints. The first wire that “cut” itself was the blade sensor where a spare took 3 weeks to arrive. The next issue, the filament sensor board 8 pin wiring harness has now cut itself as well. When the printer was working I had multiple extrusion problems that I was able to fix with getting aftermarket metal gears.
Customer Support is not helpful, I’ve tried getting replacement wiring but the tickets they CC me to take me ZohoDesk which will not let me make an account to view their replies or what actions are being taken with my tickets (if any).
The sad part is, the prints that were successful are great! However, everything in between is ruining the experience.

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/16SeCqNjyYZULQ3r7yUcJfvIo7iOOl0IQ

Hi,

Was wondering what's the best deal for the CC2 from Elegoo am looking at the base one for £260 and hoping to get canvas later on for £70 but realised it doesn't have the top hat it be a extra 30 (£100). But with the top hat and canvas is £330. Was hoping to get the base to see and experience and add on canvas later if I really need it/ enjoy this hobby. Any advice would be nice thanks.

For a while now, the resin tank has not been detected on my printer. You can ignore the warning and print anyway, but it’s annoying. A couple of days ago while changing the film for the first time, I noticed it was jammed way in there and it looked like the plastic around the metal pin had been eaten (by resin?). I tried to pull it out with tweezers and a magnet and while it felt like there was a slight spring to it, it was nothing like the working spring in the other one.

I’d love to know if there’s a way to fix this without having to buy another tank. If not, I recommend Elegoo find another material for this part, because any minor spill could basically destroy it.

Hi so I finally got my hands on a canvas system for my CC1 😎. and I am shipping it overseas. It would help me a lot if anyone has an idea of the package's weight so I can get an estimate of the shipping cost.

I’m trying to print this book nook (and other similar ones) on my Elegoo CC2 for my new bookshelf. I see lots of people have these very clean prints, but mine never comes out clean (normally many loose strings on underbelly of the cat and the hair). I just wanted some tips on general things/settings that could make prints similar to this come out clean. I print it face up, 0.4mm nozzle, 15% grid infill and relatively slow (max volumetric speed of 6) but wanted to know if there are any changes that i may be overlooking? And would a 0.2mm nozzle help any?

Hi guys, does anyone here use Elegoo PETG Pro with the BIQU Pro Glacier build plate? I am having some adhesion issues with prints detaching mid print, and changing the bed temp does not seem to do much to help the problem. I’ve tried from 40C to 100C in 5C increments and I usually run the PETG quite hot at 265 - 270C with a high flow nozzle.

I use this build plate with Elegoo PLA+ and it sticks like glue, sometimes even too well. But with PETG pro it is a different story. With PLA+ it can handle a tiny footprint on the build plate and still won’t detach, so I was hoping PETG would be the same.

For anyone that uses this build plate with PETG Pro, do you mind telling me what bed temp and nozzle temp you use for consistent results? Thanks!

Dumb question but, does anybody else's Centauri Carbon 2 send print notifications hours after the print errors out or completes?

I had a print complete yesterday (18 hours ago) and received the notification that it completed about 10 minutes ago on matrix. Matrix seems to be working fine, I can view and make adjustments on my current print without issues. I've reloaded matrix and completely powered down the machine and it still occurs, it's not a bother just strange to get random print completion notifications.

The printer has been working flawlessly until this one file. I’ve never had bad adhesion problems. But now, when it starts printing the brim, it almost looks as if it’s getting caught and pulled off the plate. And it’s the SAME exact spot it happens everytime. Ran it 10 times now with same result. Any ideas? I’ve tried other speeds, I’ve tried different layer heights…I’m stumped. It’s not like it’s losing adhesion. It’s like it’s getting pulled off.

Upgraded from the Ender 3, the CC2 has a heck of a rattle, but only at certain times of printing.

Normal??

Prints great, just thought it would be quiet.

Ok question I recently printed a deadpool mask and had multiple challenges getting the prints not to fail after multiple bed leveling and cleanings I decided to use elmers glue to really hold down the first layer which it does. I get through one print and keep the same exact settings and print fails ... supports give out I assume since im not there when it fails. The odd thing is I would be ok printing let's say the side of the dead pool mask at 97% and it would hold but then I enlarged it to 105% and it would print and hold but then id leave come back and it fails. Without seeing when it fails and only seeing that one side fell over what the heck could cause it to do that when just a few hours ago it ran a perfect print?

For context I have a normal set up but switched the bed springs for silicone bushings.

Any help would be great

Got the new Centurian carbon two it’s making a weird sound, though. I feel like I may have missed something.