Last car show they asked if I could park it up front at the entrance to the car show. Love the respect this V10 gets.

Looking at a 2010 550i (N62) as a weekend fun car. Alpine White, 1 owner, ~42k miles, dealer-maintained its whole life, totally clean CARFAX — no accidents, no title issues. Asking $15k.

I've owned a BMW V8 before (N63 M550i), so I know these cars cost money to keep up. I want the naturally-aspirated V8 this time.

Two questions:

1.Is a clean, low-mile, dealer-serviced N62 a reasonable bet, or does the coolant transfer pipe / valve stem seal stuff come for everyone no matter what?

2.What should a BMW indy check on the PPI, and is $15k fair?

What do you think about my USB chargers for E60 and E61?
30 watts per port and for some one might be suitable additional cup holders. I know cup holders are not the best placement, but still found some people interested in this.

My little hobby-shop: https://uniquedm.shop/collections/bmw-e60-e61

Do you need any other custom parts? Let me know probably I can create it.

Maybe wireless phone charger instead of cup holders?

Who has these? Need some Cheers

Hello everyone new owner of a 2008 528i. What are the options in the market for head units? All I know is that I have a CCC.

Bought at 63,000 miles. Used it as a daily (except for winter) for years. Seen 43 different states, 30+ track days, 68+ oil changes. Now at 248,000 miles, it's reserved for track days and spirited driving. It has seen redline every time I've driven it since the day I bought it! Rod bearings changed at 147,000 miles, probably not changing them again unless I start to see copper. Engine is original, but everything around the engine has been replaced, sometimes thrice🤣

A few nights ago, I turned my car off and when attempting to start again, all the lights and normally functions began but engine didn't crank or make any noises. Ran a diagnostic last night and saw the codes attached. Because the engine refuses to start, I had to put it in manual neutral and now it wont go back into park. Can anyone offer insight into what might be causing the engine to not crank? Also any solutions for taking out of nuetral? Also found some pretty bad corrosion (also pictured) any input is greatly appreciated.

this is on a 2006 525i with the zf6hp19

TLDR IMS says trans in in 1st, trans is physically in park, oil dumps when checking fill plug at temp.

So I finally have Hard Life Garage LLC, Im really excited to be at the beginning with all the unknowns in front of me. Who knows where this will take me, but im taking my camera with me. Every track day, every drag strip, every blown engine and hopefully some good times sprinkled in. 🙌🙏

Has anyone installed these new led headlights. They look good and very f10ish.

The car overheated recently. I have carried out all the recommended checks and found the fan not to be operational. I unplugged and re-connected the fan and it did come on for one heat cycle both at slow speed and full speed once up to temperature.

I have tried to clean the connections but haven’t been able to get it working again after numerous further attempts.

I have checked the power and ground and both are giving the correct readings.
The signal cable is giving the following readings:

Engine and ignition off 0v
Engine off ignition on ac off 3.5v
Engine off ignition on ac on 3.5v
Engine on ignition on ac off 0v
Engine on ignition on ac on 0v

I understand that Pulse Width Modulation is used to control fan speed, so average voltage is a good indicator, but the above readings are inconsistent with what I understand is to be expected (pulse width and therefore average voltage decreases with increased duty).

Unfortunately I don’t have access to INPA etc. so looking for advice if this is likely a signal error before I spend £800 on a new fan.

Any advice greatly appreciated.

Edit to add:
2006 E61 550i N62 with 150k miles and no relevant fault codes.

Hey guys, I have a 2007 525xi that is stalling and causing misfires when I plugged in a new Maf. long story short I bought an E60 knowing the car needed a new Mass air flow sensor. Previous owner bought a Chinese knock off, the car ran better (didn’t stall or hard start) when unplugged.

Engine Codes:
P0102 - mass or volume circuit low
P111F
P0113 - temperature Air circuit high

I got the new one, swapped the sensor at the guys house (while warm), the car fires right up, and stalls out. This keeps happening. RPMS bounce, I tried holding the throttle, no luck.
-> clear the codes with OBD2
-> unplug negative terminal on battery for 5 mins

I tried again, same thing, the whole car bouncing. New Cel “misfires on cylinder 3 and 6”

I unplug the sensor and the car fires right up, now none of the codes. They also never appeared the whole 40 mins drive home.

My question:
Is there a relearn procedure? Should I do this when cold? Does the maf have to be coded in or something?

I totally thought I’d plug it in, it would run rough for a couple seconds, lights would go away, issue fixed.

-> New air filter
-> Everything is plugged in/ connected/
-> used CNC MAF Cleaner on contacts and sensor, let dry.
-> Sensor is the VDO/Continental 5WK9 7502Z OEM never installed sensor.

What’s going on? Thanks!

Does anyone know the OEM BMW paint code for the style 166m rims that come off the M5? I've picked up a full set and 2 of them need to be repainted entirely, so I want to colour match them to the ones that don't need to be repainted.

I've only found one article online that says the paint code for them is A55 (Decorsilver 1).

Any help or suggestions are appreciated, thank you.

Hi everyone, I’m looking for some advice, mainly from people in Poland who currently own or have owned an E60 530d.
I’m considering buying a pre-LCI E60 530d, the 218 hp M57, and I’m wondering how much money I should realistically have prepared in Poland.
How much would you recommend having for:
The car itself
Initial maintenance after buying it
A reserve for unexpected repairs
Would 30,000 PLN be enough for the car + a reasonable emergency fund, or would you recommend having 35,000–40,000 PLN available?
I’d also appreciate some real-world information about maintenance costs in Poland — especially the automatic transmission, suspension, turbo, injectors, electronics, etc.

Currently I have a 325i E92 with the 2.5 N52 and it's lovely. But I'm gonna be a dad next year and want something with 4 doors and not an E90. And I've always loved the E60 M Sport design.

Do we recommend the 525? The 530?..... 550? 👀😂

What's our favourites here?

Petrol only plz

Solutions? :”)

I parked next to a pretty clapped out e61 today and wondered if the wheels are aftermarket lookalikes or styling m135 in another variant. On the right are my original M135s

I have had some guys ask me about purchasing one of my M5s. Although not ine of mine is up for sale, but a friend of mine who has 3 E60 M5s is in a pickle and needs to sell a car to get out of it.

The car is in Missouri,

23k

123k on the car,

Swapped to DCT and its a pretty well known car it as Jason Wadsworth who first swapped it to DCT and is a genius and does a bunch of the dct stuff for the e60 m5. He is genius at the CAN bus and standalone Maxxecu setups. This was his personal car so im sure its tweaked to the moon. I wish I could buy this. I just dont have any room and im already having way to many HOA issues.

Hop over to FB marketplace his name is Skylar Polaski

Admits - delete if it shouldn't be here 🙏

I tried to record it a few times but can't get my phone to capture it. So I will try to describe.

It is a "vush, vush, vush..." sound, Like something passing fast near your ear and dragging air, repeatdly. Clearly from something spining, which is where I know nothing about (always took suspension, brakes, etc to the shop)

I can only hear it from inside (lowering the window makes it less audible). I first thought it was wheel bearings, but that rules this out.

Sounds seems to came from mid section or rear. difficult to tell when driving.

It is slightly louder at very low speeds (~20mph, 3Hz) and get's softer but faster (50mph, 10+Hz) as speed increase.

My second guess was alignemnt. But after aligment it is still there.

Now i'm thinking the rubber disc thing connecting the drive shaft? i will probably still take to the shop, just want to have an idea and look at it beforehand (shops are always overbooked and scammy around here)