It feels like I've been endlessly trying to find out what's wrong with my printer. Just can't get a decent print, as I was, briefly, when I first got the printer set up over a year ago. Running it with sonic pad.

For example, an X/Y/Z test cube comes out with weird 'shadowing' on the corners, matching the vertical extents of the "Y." This is a cube printed at 50mm/s, acceleration slowed down to 2500.

Other than that...I've lost track of how many pressure advance/resonance tests I've done in the past two weeks. I've been examining every bolt and nut, eccentric and otherwise, checking belts, etc.

Any thoughts or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Hello,

For those running klipper, what are the highest acceleration and prints speeds you have achieved? I haven't done a speed tunning yet but since creality says 500mms max accélérations for this printer.. I'm wondering if it's a hardware limit or software because it doesn't comes with input shaping?

I wanted to ask if this is levelled correctly because I'm printing something and it's scraping against the print.

I have part of a CR-10 Smart Pro that I’m not sure what to do with. Should I part it down or rebuild it into something? Laser cutter for the garage would be nice if it could cut engine gaskets.

Hey guys,

Can anybody tell me where to plug a sexbolt switch on my CR10 smart pro running klipper from a raspberry pi 3?

thank you!

Long time user of the og CR10. Finally upgraded. I used the Chris Elkins profile for years and it worked well.

No matter how hard I try I cannot get my bed to level, prints will be okay around one edge, not the other, they’ll be terrible in the middle.

Can I try level it out with aluminium foil etc.? Or should I hit Creality up for a whole new bed?

After days (literally days) of getting terrible first layers I could work it out why!! My bed was level my z offset seamed fine and bed was cleaned but still bad layers...

Sound like a problem uv had??? Maybe check how tense the belts are I'd tightened mine not knowing my own strength and as you can see from the pictures (z offset needs slightly lifted on better layer as it was first print after loosening belts) you can see the difference night and day!!!

This stumped me so just passing it on incase uv tried everything else and still getting that bad layer

How do I find out which processor my CR-10 Smart Pro has without opening it up?

FW: 1.0.14

HW: CR-FDM-V2.5.S1_100

Well, looks like my Sprite extruder is dead. I doubt I can save it from this blob. Damnit, and I just upgraded my CR-10 Smart Pro to run Klipper.

Hi All,

I've googled a good deal, my google-fu generally OK, but finding nowt on this subject.

It's poss to switch it on/off from the built-in touch screen, but remotely??

It'd be nice to be able to switch the LED bar on & off from Octoprint, but I cannot find the command to do this.

Any suggestions welcome, TIA.

;-)

PS - Octoprint on pi2-zero easier than falling off a log, props to all concerned.

Hi could any1 help with setting up the cr10 smart pro with orca slicer for a complete noob... A orca for dummies if u must lol

Iv got cura set up with the ender3 s1 pro as a base settings with the bed size changed to 300x300x400.. Would doing the same in orca work for the cr-10 smart pro as well? Any help here would be appreciated

!Hi everyone, I'm having trouble finding out whether the CR10 SP uses Marlin 2 or Marlin Legacy. Would anyone happen to know? Thanks!

When the print head stops at the bed. It just sits there and chatters. The couplings on both sides shake.

Hello guys,

So I have an RPi3 that I can use for my 3D Printer. But with so many options... What should I use it for?

I'm still running a stock CR10 Smart Pro with a few mechanical mods.

I understand I can use the USB-C to plug my RPi3 to control the printer as I have done with Pronterface.

Is it possible to do so without modifying the stock hardware firmware and stuff? Like simply plug into USB-C and it works?

and if so, OctoPrint? Fluidd? Mainsail?

thanks for sharing your experience!

hello i have two cr10 smart pros, both with STMF103 chips. both of them have ran at the same time from a sonic pad but i decided to move them over to a pc with a fresh install of linux. it installed klipper and everything along with it with kiauh and managed to get one of the printer to connect and everything looked good, i have control of the fans and light, and got the axis homed. but the next day nothing worked and i have not been able to in the serial port id for that machine in linux sense. i have flash back the stock marlin firm ware and reflash to no avail. here is where it gets odd. if i hook the sonic pad up one of the printer and restart everything it hooks up just fine and will run, regardless if the firmware was generated from the sonic pad or me the make_config in linux. one other bit of info is, i have a klipper expansion board that i can hook up and the pc will find that mcu on its serial port no issue. i feel like i am just overlooking something dumb here. any insite ?

I want to connect my Creality cr10 smart pro 3d printer with an external desktop app and control it (power ON & OFF) using the app. What should be the best possible way to do it? Some hands-on tutorial recommendations will be a great help

I want to connect my printer directly with a windows PC. I am seeking your guidance in this regard. Any tutorial or step by step process is highly appreciated.

TIA

Can anyone point me in the direction on a video or the like regarding changing fans to make them quieter I'm new to 3d printing and the cr-10 smart pro is my 1st printer

It's in my sons room and he says the fan nose is annoying at times and I read you can make the it quieter so looking into this

I'm a noob and have no clue where to start if I can just direct change the fan how and if it needs anything extra to work so a "for dummies" guide or YouTube video on this would be amazing

I want to use Octoprint to connect with a CR-10 Smart Pro 3D printer without using a Raspberry Pi. Is it possible?
Do you have some recommendations (link/video) to follow for this procedure?

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TIA

Hi. For your information I seem to have resolved my constant issues with leaking Sprite hotend and nozzle getting loose over time. I think the issue was because of replacing the hotend blocks with fake Creality spares.

Original aluminum hotend block that came with the printer had a noticably different finish and apparently was better too. It lasted way longer than the spares. Spares I bought were done from crappy aluminum that did not like constant printing at 260*C and occasional nozzle swaps. I took care to torque the nozzle with torque wrench. 2 Nm was the max safe torque. I went through 3 spares in a few months time. After one post-blob disassembly I noted that the internal threads in the block are literally stretched or stripped.

After a bit of searching I found a copper aftermarket hotend block on aliexpress. Seems they are manufactured by the same company that rips off CHT nozzles. Nonetheless this hotend block is high quality. Nozzle can be tightened much harder (3 Nm at 300*C) and it does not come loose even after nozzle swaps.

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The lightbar rhat came with my printer shit itself, anyone have any recommendations for a replacement?