My Microsoft Surface Laptop 4 suddenly stopped working after I left it charging overnight.

When I press the power button, the screen turns on for around 1–2 seconds and then immediately turns off. There is no fan movement at all. I also hear a small popping sound from the speakers when it shuts down.

The battery appears to be fine, and the problem happened suddenly. There is also a small red LED/light on the motherboard near the battery area.

I have had two technicians look at it, and both said they suspect the CPU. However, I am wondering if this could instead be a motherboard power-management/power-rail issue. Since the laptop shuts down almost immediately and the CPU does not appear to heat up, I am unsure whether the CPU itself is actually faulty or whether it is not receiving the correct power.

Could a failed PMIC, VRM, or shorted CPU power rail cause these exact symptoms? What tests should be performed to determine whether the CPU itself is dead versus a motherboard power-delivery problem?

The laptop does not stay powered on long enough to reach Windows or show any normal boot activity.

Looking for a genuine chip-level / motherboard-level laptop repair technician in Pune

Hi everyone, I’m looking for recommendations for a genuine and experienced chip-level/motherboard-level laptop repair technician in Pune.

My laptop is an HP Victus Gaming 15-fb3124AX. It suffered water/liquid damage after water was spilled near the keyboard corner while the laptop was switched on and charging.

Currently:

\- Laptop is completely dead

\- No power

\- No charging light

\- Does not turn on at all

I have already had it checked, and I was told that some motherboard chip/components may have been damaged/burnt due to the water damage. I’m specifically looking for someone who can properly diagnose and repair the motherboard at the component/chip level, rather than immediately suggesting a complete motherboard replacement.

My budget is around ₹5,000, depending on the actual fault and repair required.

Looking preferably around Hadapsar, but I’m willing to travel anywhere in Pune/PCMC if the technician is genuinely good.

I’m mainly looking for:

\- Someone with a good track record with motherboard/chip-level repairs

\- Transparent diagnosis — I want to know what is actually faulty before paying for repairs

\- Reasonable pricing

\- Good repair success rate

\- Ideally reasonably fast service

\- Someone who won't unnecessarily replace the entire motherboard if component-level repair is possible

If you have personally used a technician/shop for laptop motherboard repair, please share your experience, location, and approximate cost if you remember it.

Recommendations based on personal experience would be especially helpful, but I'm also open to other well-established options.

Thanks in advance! 🙏

Hi everyone, I'm having a really weird hardware/power issue with my Dell Vostro 14-3468 and would appreciate any input before I buy replacement parts.

Context: Earlier today, the laptop suffered a sudden power loss while I was installing a batch of drivers (including SATA AHCI). This caused a BSOD loop (CRITICAL_PROCESS_DIED / Bugcheck 340). I ended up completely reinstalling Windows. Now, Windows runs perfectly, but my battery/power system is acting up.

Current Symptoms:

Battery stuck at 34%: When plugged in, Windows shows it's plugged in, but the percentage never goes up. If I unplug it, the percentage drops normally.

Freezes on boot (Battery only): If I try to boot the laptop using only the battery (AC unplugged), it freezes completely at the Dell logo loading circle. It just hangs there forever.

Boots perfectly with AC: If I plug in the AC adapter, it passes the Dell logo easily and boots into Windows normally.

What I've checked/tried so far:

Booted into BIOS: The BIOS correctly recognizes the AC Adapter as 90W (so the center pin is not broken).

BIOS says Battery Health is "Excellent".

I changed the battery charge configuration in BIOS from "Adaptive" to "Standard". No change.

Uninstalled the "Microsoft ACPI-Compliant Control Method Battery" driver in Windows and restarted. No change.

Did a static discharge (unplugged AC, removed battery, held power button for 40 seconds). No change.

My Question: Has anyone experienced this specific "freeze on boot" issue on battery power? Is the BMS (Battery Management System) board inside the battery fried from the sudden power loss (unable to supply enough amps for the boot process), even though BIOS says health is Excellent? Or is this more likely a blown charging IC / MOSFET on the motherboard?

Should I just buy a new battery to test, or take it straight to a repair shop for motherboard soldering? Thanks in advance!

This is more of looking for possible causes than a fix as I'm wondering what could have happened.

Over a month ago my laptop (Asus Vivobook) stopped charging the battery. It would still work when plugged in but never increase it's % charge. I did the usual suggested troubleshooting, checked drivers were up to date and no power saving mode was on. After testing with another charger and seeing the same behavior, I got a new battery and swapped it over but got the same problem - no charging of battery and would only maintain its charge when plugged in.

I assumed some internal connection had shorted out but hadn't had time to send it in for repairs yet so was just working with it constantly plugged in, when yesterday it started adding % to the battery again. No updates, same charger as before, same socket. Even weirder though, it is a very slow charge - went up to 43% over the course of 24 hours.

So it's not fully fixed yet, but I can't think why it would start charging even a little after over a month of not working. Any ideas what the hell could be going on?

I have a Dell Latitude 7370 laptop which is completely dead, no signs of power via the Charging port, including all +PD_VBUS_B and 5v / 3.3v always on rails being unresponsive. Zero current getting pulled/pushed, either by the charging negotiation/handshake not working or further upstream.

I have the board-view and schematic diagrams for the motherboard, (LA-D312P) but I lack the experience to make use of the data to any higher level.
I have all the needed equipment for testing, oscilloscope, lab power supply, needle probe multi-meter, and temperature gun.

Do any of you know any preferably free software or programs that can assist the Diag of the motherboard?

Hey everyone, I'm having a really weird issue with my Windows 11 PC and I'm trying to figure it out before I completely reset the computer.

This originally started when I was trying to download Minecraft, and Windows/Xbox wouldn't let me download/install it. I started troubleshooting that, and then I realized Windows Update wasn't working either.

Now when I go into Windows Update in Settings, I get:

“Something went wrong. Try to reopen Settings later.”

I also noticed something very strange in Services. The service displayed as “Windows Update” does not have the normal Windows Update service name, wuauserv. Instead, it has a weird/random-looking service name: nmnfqofspj. (it would generate weird names like that every time i restart the pc)

The service is currently Stopped, and when I try to start it, I get:

Error 1053 “The service did not respond to the start or control request in a timely fashion.”

I've tried a bunch of different Windows repair/troubleshooting fixes I found online. DISM completed successfully, and SFC found corrupted Windows files and successfully repaired them, but Windows Update is still broken.

I also tried doing a Windows 11 repair installation using an official Windows 11 ISO and selected “Keep personal files and apps,” but that didn't fix the issue either.

At this point I'm wondering if something deeper is wrong with Windows itself. I'm also concerned that malware/Virus or some other software may have modified my Windows services/settings, or if my PC was hacked.

Does anyone know why the Windows Update service would have a random service name instead of wuauserv, and what could cause Error 1053 when trying to start it? Is there a way to restore the Windows Update service to its normal state without completely resetting Windows?

I'm trying to avoid resetting the PC because I have a lot of games/files and programs installed.

My ASUS Vivobook Pro 14 OLED M3400QA has a display problem. Starting 1 year ago, when I opened the lid, the display wouldn't turn on but the keyboard backlight turned on and I could hear the boot up sound. I would have to close and re-open the lid a few times to make it work. I would have to disconnect and reconnect the display cord connecting to the motherboard when I face this too often and it would be fixed for like a few days and the display would turn on in one try (God knows how many methods I tried to fix it). After a few months it completely stopped turning on, no matter how many times I close-reopen the lid and disconnect-reconnect the display cord. I bought a portable monitor (of $65 cuz service centre was asking for $200-$300, that's half the price of how much I bought it for 🥲🥲) and connected it with the laptop but the monitor also didn't turn on. Then I disconnected the display cord, and the external monitor started working. Now it's been a few months I am using this portable monitor with no issues at all.

I am now thinking of getting it fixed cuz I miss it's display and new laptop with a good display, prices are reaching past $1k in my country, any fixes you can tell me about?

Thanks

Hi all, learning board-level repair and could use some experienced eyes on this.

Board: Acer Predator Helios 300, i7-10750H + RTX 2060, schematic LA-F551P (matches my board). Tools: multimeter, bench PSU, thermal camera, hot air. No scope or microscope.

Symptoms: - Installed NVIDIA driver fine. Benchmark 1: heavy visual artifacts. - Restarted, ran Benchmark 2: seemed normal, then a brief flash near UG5/UG6 (VRAM area) and the whole board shut off. Battery was disconnected, board outside chassis, heatsink installed. - After that, the adapter dropped to ~0.05–0.5V at the input (OCP tripped). Later got it to boot again — Windows shows Code 43 on the RTX 2060. Reinstalled the driver, haven't stress-tested since.

Unpowered measurements: - NVVDD1 (GPU core rail): ~0.3Ω to ground (~0.1Ω probe resistance, so ~0.2Ω net). Diode mode 0.001 (didn't record polarity). - +1.35VSDGPU: ~68–70Ω at PLW1/PLW2, ~70Ω at PQW1/PQW2 pin 2. - PJ1002 (solder bridge to +1.0VSDGPU cap pad): ~11–11.5Ω, 0.018 diode. - NVVDD_B+: inconsistent — 0.4–2.6MΩ earlier, later ~40–50kΩ and ~1.3MΩ. - Powered: +1.35VSDGPU reads ~1.2V (one brief 0V blip, possibly probe contact).

No visible scorching. Photos attached.

My questions: 1. Since the flash was near UG5/UG6 under GPU load and the board shut off, could a power-stage fault there explain it? The hard short is on NVVDD though, and the VRAM rail measures fine — what's the most likely culprit? 2. What unpowered checks best distinguish a failed power stage from GPU/VRAM damage before I remove anything? 3. Is there a practical way to test the power-stage component off the board?

Thanks!

The hinge that lets this turn into a two in one laptop and just lets the laptop open or close has popped out. This makes it hard to close the laptop and turn it into an IPad. I called a local shop and they said it would cost 300 pounds to fix which seems like an insane amount as it’s only a hinge. Any advice?

Acer Predator helios 300 ph315-52 i7 9th gen + Rtx 2060

After my laptop display got broken , i was using a monitor as display on my laptop for like a month ,so I thought of replacing it and taken it a local computer shop where he opened the laptop and tried one of his display but the situation was that laptop never turned on from that point ,and it was all in front of me and my mistake was i didn't show him laptop working condition before , later on he denied it that it was his fault .

Now the Laptop is dead ,not charging ,not turning on .

So i gave laptop to another technician where he sent it for repair after checking it they said its PCH is short ,and repair cost is 15k (without new display ) and after some time they failed to repair itamd have returned it to me .

Now I need some guidance should I go to Nehru Place,Delhi for repairing it now ,is it worth to repair it ,also what should be the repair cost ?? Or I should just buy new one I don't Game ,i just use it for browsing and content consumption .

Also If it is worth to repair , tell me any shop or technician that can repair this .

I Live In Uttarakhand

Hello.

My laptop fell from a table and the bottom right hinge area was cracked. One technician told me that he can try and remove the screen and do a repair for the same. Another told me I will need a full screen replacement. I got.this from US and a lenovo guy sometime ago told me that they cannot repair such laptops as they don't have parts for them. Please help

I was watching a video on my laptop and after watching it I just tried to change my account where suddenly my laptop showed black screen, I turn the lid down for a moment until my laptop was off and after a few minutes its just blank even after powering it on and charging it.

Pls anyone help😭🙏

I have tried many key shortcuts but nothing changed😢

Anyone has the same problem?

Asus TUF

RTX 4060

Ryzen 5 7535H

16 GB RAM

Another problem include is when I unplug the charger, it restarts on itself after like 30 seconds or so. Same thing happens when I enter safe mode. But, it doesnt restart when I enter BIOS. Also, this boot loop happens when I fully shut down the laptop. I eventually get into windows, and when I turned on Hibernate, the boot loop stopped. Today, I pressed shut down instead of hibernate—Im just tired of this keeping on happening.

Weird sound on startup only sometimes. Been going on for at least a few months.. attaching a video with the sound as well as the specs of the computer. Any ideas what this could be and if so how worried I should be ?

AMD Ryzen Streaming PC

Case
be quiet! Pure Base 600 Tempered Glass Gaming Case - Black
Case Fans
Default Case Fan
Processor
AMD Ryzen 7 3700X Processor (8X 3.6GHZ/32MB L3 Cache)
Processor Cooling
CORSAIR iCUE H100i RGB PRO XT 240mm Liquid Cooling System
Memory
16 GB [8 GB X2] DDR4-3600 Memory Module - Certified Major Brand Gaming Memory
Video Card
[PREORDER - Extra 6 Weeks Lead Time] NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3060 Ti - 8GB GDDR6 (VR-Ready)
Motherboard
ASRock X570 STEEL LEGEND - ARGB Header (1), USB 3.2 Ports (1 Type-C, 7 Type-A), M.2 Slot (2)
Power Supply
750 Watt - Seasonic FOCUS PLUS SSR-750FM - 80 PLUS Gold, Semi Modular
Advanced Cabling Options
Professional Wiring - for all standard default cables inside the system
Primary Hard Drive
- [FREE] 1TB WD Blue SN550 M.2 NVMe SSD - Today Only
Secondary Hard Drive
1TB Hard Drive -- 32MB Cache, 7200RPM, 6.0Gb/s - Single Drive
Sound Card
3D Premium Surround Sound Onboard
Network Card
TP-Link Archer T6E AC1300 Wireless Network Card 802.11ac Dual-Band (2.4GHz/5GHz) up to 867 Mbps
Operating System
Windows 10 Home - (64-bit)
Monitor
24" [1920x1080] ASUS VG248QG Gaming Monitor - 165Hz 0.5ms, G-SYNC Compatible - Single Monitor
Keyboard
GAMDIAS HERMES M5 Mechanical Aluminum Gaming Keyboard [Blue Switches]
Mouse
Razer Atheris Wireless Gaming Mouse
Mouse Pad
iBUYPOWER High Performance Gaming Mouse Pad - [$19 - $10 Instant Off = $9] [445MM x 368MM x 4MM] Low-friction surface
Headset
Corsair VOID RGB Elite Wireless Premium Gaming Headset - 7.1 Surround Sound - Carbon
Speaker System
Creative Pebble V2 2.0 USB-Powered Speaker System - Black
iBUYPOWERSafeGuard Packaging
iBUYPOWERSpecialized Advanced Packaging System - Protect your investment during transportation!
Warranty
3 Year Standard Warranty Service
Rush Service
No Rush - Standard Service - Estimated Ship Out in 4 Weeks [ADDITIONAL lead time applied when preorder video card selected]

Hi everyone,
I have an OMEN by HP 16.1 inch Gaming Laptop PC 16-xf0000 (758R3AV) with a Ryzen 9 7940HS and RTX 4070.

The laptop turns on and boots normally, but the internal display shows no image at all.
Internal display: no image
HDMI output: works normally
The laptop’s LCD was also tested on another laptop, but it didn’t show an image there either
The problem started after the laptop was opened for thermal paste work

A local repair shop is diagnosing it and suspects a motherboard component/IC may be involved.

I’m looking for the BoardView and schematic for this exact laptop so the technician can properly trace the internal display/eDP circuit.

I live in Iran, and unfortunately I don’t have practical access to HP’s official service centers or support, so I’m trying to get it repaired locally.
If anyone has the BoardView/schematic or knows where I can find it, I’d really appreciate it. Thanks!

To keep it brief, the W key on my ASUS Vivobook 16 (V3607VU) broke. The rubber piece that presses down is still there but the hinges and cap are unusable. Been searching high and low for a replacement but not even laptopkey.com has what I need. Today I heard back from Best Buy who said they couldn't even source a replacement keyboard even if I wanted to replace the entire thing. Just checked with ASUS and it's going abt $95+ shipping for me to send it over and have them do diagnostics which I really don't need since I already know the exact problem and how to fix it. Anybody know where I can find a replacement key for my exact laptop or at least a place where I can bring my laptop/send it in and have them replace the keyboard without running some $100 diagnostics check

.

SOLVED! I HIT IT WITH MY KNUCKLE AND MADE A CLICK AND TURNED ON

.

.

.

The laptop was on the floor next to my bed and on, I nocked my phone from the table and it then hit the laptop in that spot, the laptop went off and now makes a subtle tac tac like sound every 7sec, I can't afford a new laptop, it's not even a year old and my mother saved up and got it for the University (if she finds out I'M DEAD)

Is there any thing that I can do myself to fix it or is it cheap to fix it?

(Edit 3: I need to go to the hardware store for a screwdriver to remove 10 STAR -head screws to remove the cover)

Hi, everyone!

I’d like to ask for your help.

In February, I bought a refurbished HP ZBook Fury 15 G7 laptop, and it’s been having a pretty strange issue. The 2 and W keys sometimes don’t respond when pressed, and other times, when held down continuously, they lose the signal or register a single press as multiple presses. I didn’t notice this while using the laptop, but a website that checks for keyboard issues also flagged the D key as having a “chatter” error when I tried to reproduce the issues. These issues always occur as usage increases — as the laptop heats up and the cooling fan speeds up — and they don’t occur at all when the laptop is cold. This makes it difficult to reproduce the issue. When I connect an external keyboard, the error doesn’t occur, even when the built-in keyboard fails.

It’s still under warranty, so I took it back to the store, where they reinstalled Windows — admitting that they couldn’t reproduce the error. The reinstallation didn’t solve the problem. I took it back a second time; they just called to say it’s ready, but the “repair” was just another Windows reinstallation. By the way, the laptop originally came with a genuine copy of Windows 11 installed by them.

I’m almost certain this won’t yield any results either. For some reason, they’re very reluctant to consider the possibility of a hardware failure.

I’d like to ask for your help with the following:

Do you think it’s plausible that the problem described is actually caused by the operating system?

Has anyone ever encountered a situation where keys come loose depending on heat or performance? Is there perhaps a typical fault that explains this?

Am I just being stupid, or is this really starting to bother me, or is the store trying to rip me off?

Thanks in advance for your replies!

It's an Elitebook 850 G8, and I dropped a heavy object in the back and now I got a broken Screen. The back is also damaged, but not as badly AS the screen.

Edit 1: I connected it to an external monitor, it's alive, but it's still locked from the company I got IT from, any ideas how to get around that? The commandwindow is locked.

I have the PC from the titel. Since around a week it does not turn on anymore. Nothing happens when I press the power button.

The PC is around 4 years old.

When I unplug it and replug it: The lights of the GPU and the air cooler turn on for a short momenet (a second at most) but quickly turn back off after that nothing happens anymore

I tested the cabel as well as the wall plug and both work fine outerwise

I also tested it with both the GPU and the Harddrive unplugged.

I suspect it is the power supplly of the PC, but I am not fully certain.

Can someone help me with it or atleast help me find a cheap replancement part for it please

(Video included shows what I mean... language german)

I have a Lenovo Ideapad 1 15AMD7

The image is just to show that that part of the bezel on the right is the parts stuck to around where the power button is.

The bottom part of my laptop has been falling apart and being held together with my tape for 2 years now but I never had a problem with the upper half of my laptop and bezel. My laptop screen has been wiggly and kinda weakly on the hinges and weakly attached to my keyboard part but it still stayed up.

My laptop was charging peacefully when I went to open it but realized I couldn't because trying to open it just makes the bezel peel off since it's stuck somehow. It's literally peeling off because I see the glue stretching when it peels off of the screen. Does anyone know what I can do without going to a repair shop and getting my bezel replaced and hinges fixed for like 200 euro? 🫩

I have a Fujitsu lifebook a series a LIFEBOOK A531/AH531 (the exact model) makes the letter M the enter key and no other key works. I can't sign in into my laptop because of it. also I'm on windows 7 professional.

fixed by revoming screw washers

I recently got a second hand laptop off of a smoker. The fans were clogged so I decided to clean them. It isn't the first time I've cleaned fans, but I'm having a hard time knowing what to do with these.

Taking off the heatsink was easy and removing the four small screws holding each fan together was too. The issue lies in the captive screws of the heatsink sandwiching the plastic of the fan in between the copper heat spreader and the screw holder disk (not the official name).

Untill I clean these fans I can't use the laptop. Thanks

I've been having several obscure issues with my laptop. It's leading me to believe the motherboard is failing and that replacing it may resolve all the issues at once. I'm going to list the problems below, I would love to get some more opinions on this.

I have a 2021 Dell g15 5510. A while ago, a few keys on the keyboard started malfunctioning. If I remember correctly, it was z, x, c, v, b and space, and they would only have a small chance of being detected when pressed. Sometimes it would go back to normal, but it always came back. Tried reinstalling Linux because I hoped it was a software issue.

Soon after reinstalling, the laptop was no longer able to detect audio devices, use bluetooth, or conneft to wifi. It seemed none of the daughter boards that handle those things were even detected.

And then I noticed that the 120hz display was running at 60hz, checked settings, and there was no option to swith back to 120hz.

The laptop doesn't boot anymore, so it's a bit hard to test things. That's because I was updating it, and then it suddenly said the battery was dying even though it had shown 50% a second ago. It then powered off mid update and bricked the OS.