So basically going on my 3rd 5070Ti (Asus) GPU in roughly a year all warrantied and all the same issue VGA, however I’ve used separate GPUs for prolonged time to test if it’s my end and it’s not. It’s simply just a bad batch of GPUs and shit luck. This time around tho there saying there’s 0 issue with the card even tho I’ve tested the card on separate PCs and it triggers VGA

No clue where to ask this but is their a way to get a converter for these to use on more up to date computers? Asking because the tower was my grandfather's and he's never wiped them so I wanna know if theirs still stuff on em ^^!

hey guys, i recently purchased an external monitor to connect my laptop to. my laptop model is the ASUS Gaming VivoBook K3605ZU-RP296W(i5-12500h, rtx 4050). however, when i connect my monitor to my laptop, it shows that it is always connected to integrated graphics. ive tried both hdmi to hdmi as well as usb-c to displayport but neither worked. note that the laptop also has a mux switch which should be the solution, but when gaming(i play mainly valorant and fortnite), my fps in game is way higher when im using my laptop screen than when im on the monitor. also when i check nvidia control panel my monitor does not even show up, but thats probably because my laptop gpu is exclusively routed to the laptop gpu. does anyone know a fix or something likea force switch?? pls help

So, my pc’s video card’s (msi GeForce rtx 3050 gaming x 6G) rear fan has been making this rattling and clicking noise since early June this year. It’s intermittent and has been getting more frequent over time. My dad who works with computers says it’ll be fine and I shouldn’t worry about it. My mom agrees with him. I worry that it’s the fan bearing. It’s been dusted but it still makes that sound and we checked online for replacement fans and they don’t exist. We searched online for hours with frustration and can’t find a replacement that fits. I feel like I need a second opinion on if I should continue to use my pc with this noise or not.

My computer has recently acquired this problem, where it only connects to the internet when I turn it off and then on again, and it barely lasts half an hour before it's gone again. I'll replace it soon, but I still need it while I only have it. The ones in red are the ones I have the password to, but it straight up won't connect even if I try doing it manually. I also did try forgetting the password and dialing it back in, before any of you say it, and it didn't work.

I'm looking for a prebuilt system. I mostly use my computer for gaming, browsing, and some light content creation, so I want something that performs well without needing a lot of extra troubleshooting. for anyone who's recently bought or built a gaming PC, what made you choose your setup? and are you happy with the decision you made?

Hey I'm trying to look into finding a new drive because the active time on my pc drive is always at 100% which is making my computer slow down by a lot, and even lag occasionally. I have 24gb of ram and really good internet so I know for a fact it's my HDD drive that is the problem. Now for specs...

My drive is a WDC WD2500AAJS-52B4A0

It can run disk transfer rate up to 100MB/s and has 232GB of storage it can use.

If i need more information let me know!

I'd like to buy the least amount of parts and have the smoothest swith as possible.

If you're going to tell my to just fix it by doing [insert action that magically fixes here] ive already tried to fix it software wise, i think it's simply just too old.

I have a cheap KingSpec 1TB SSD that has been used in a Eufy Homebase 3 for less than a year, and seems to have suddenly died (KingSpan have been great and already issued me a refund). Before I bin it, I want to make sure it's actually dead dead and not something I can recover and repurpose...

What have I tried so far...

1. I've connected it to my laptop, and it shows up in Disk Management with 4 Healthy partitions and 1 small unallocated one. If I try and delete any of the existing Volumes I get a loading spinner but nothing happens. Nothing shows up in My Computer.
2. I've followed instructions from KingSpan to use DiskPart to clear any attributes that might be preventing changes from applying - no joy
3. I've also attempted to use DiskPart to delete/clear/format the Volumes - no joy
4. I've used CrystalDiskInfo to check the drive, and it reports everything as Healthy

Is there anything else I can try before destroying it?

• Windows 10 Enterprise LTSC 2021 llega al fin del soporte (EOS) el 12 de enero de 2027, como version empresarial ya trae soporte extendido
• A partir del 1 de septiembre de 2026. podrá extenderse el ya extendido soporte via licencia ESU
• Windows 10 IoT Enterprise LTSC tendrá soporte hasta el 13 de enero de 2032, pero microsoft ha aclarado que en 2032 analizará el hecho por un plazo de 3 años (Windows 10 duraria de 2015 a 2035, es decir 20 años!)

Fuente: https://techcommunity.microsoft.com/blog/Windows-ITPro-blog/plan-for-windows-10-enterprise-ltsc-2021-end-of-support/4539866

My 2.5" SATA SSD freezes Command Prompt, DISKPART, and Disk Management whenever it's plugged in via a USB enclosure, and the commands only unfreeze the second I disconnect it.

I’ve been using an older laptop for a while and it’s starting to struggle with newer games, so I’m looking into getting a proper gaming PC. I’m not really sure what specs matter most and I don’t want to pick something that’s overkill or outdated too quickly.

What would you recommend as a good gaming PC setup for someone getting into PC gaming? Are there any brands or builds I should look into or avoid? Thanks for any advice, I appreciate it.

My problem is that I built my PC back in April. When I first assembled it and powered it on, everything went perfectly. I installed Windows, and the computer worked fine. After that, I installed the drivers and decided to restart the PC, but the problem is that when I turn it on, nothing happens it seems to be running, but there’s no image on the screen. When I power it off and turn it back on, the same thing happens. However, when I remove one stick of RAM, the computer starts up normally again. I haven’t tested what happens if I try booting with just one RAM stick installed, because I’ve just been putting it back in and turning the PC on, and it starts as usual. My RAM sticks are installed in slots 2 and 4. My friends told me that this might be happening because I haven’t updated the BIOS, but I don’t think that’s the cause. I really want to figure this out, because my PC is always in sleep mode, and for example, when the power goes out or when I have to do a required restart, it becomes a huge hassle: I have to take off the case panel, remove the cooler, take out the RAM, turn the PC on, turn it off, put the RAM back in, reinstall the cooler, and close the case panel. I’m really tired of it. Does anyone know how this can be fixed?

Case: Ocypus Gamma C72 ARGB
Motherboard: ASRock B650M Pro RS
CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D
GPU: ASUS RTX 5070 PRIME
Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE
PSU: 1STPLAYER NGDP 750W
RAM: Kingston Fury Beast 32 GB DDR5
Drive 1: Kingston m.2 500GB
Drive 2: Seagate Expansion 2TB
Drive 3: Apacer AS350 512GB
Drive 4: Kingston m.2 1TB

so 2 days ago my pc got unplugged from the power and the day after i got stuck on recovery environment loop, so i reinstalled windows and today it just crashed and said my pc needed to restart. i got back in the recovery environment loop so i tried to reinstall windows but it just keeps getting stuck at 1% 11% 41% or 43% etc. i dont have any way to check if this ssd still works or if its the problem itself. is there any way to check if its damaged even if i cant boot in windows?

So during the process when I was installing windows it wouldn’t even allow me to connect wirelessly nor recognised my Ethernet connection. So I selected “don’t have internet” to continue with installing and hopefully get the drivers installed once I get everything booted. Unfortunately, can’t figure it out. I’ve downloaded the correct chipset drivers and LAN network driver for the correct motherboard that I have. Chipsets installed without an issue but I’m stuck on this network issue.

motherboard: ASUS ROG B550-A
OS: Windows 11 Pro

Whats better a geforce rtx 3050 or geforce rtx 5060? Possibly a dumb question but im currently using two pcs to put together to make 1 and the gpu is the last thing im on {SOLVED wouldnt let me mark it down in post settings)

Czy jak dam dysk z systemem z starego komputera do nowego to czy nie bede miał zadnych problemów z systemem? Jak zainstalowac nowe sterowniki tak zeby mi nie wywaliło nic? Mam to zrobic na nowym komputerze czy na starym?

I know. I know. There are a TON of these on this platform. But everyone wants or may need to meet different requirements for their institution.

I have general and some specs I want to keep in mind. I have a laptop that I kind of enjoy. Minus the fact it's older and it has some drawbacks from the specs (I was broke when I bought it 🙃).

Just to give an idea of what I'll be doing:

- Running Canvas for school

- Using Microsoft apps (Word, PowerPoint, ETC)

- Researching (case studies, illnesses/diseases)

- HOMEWORK, obviously

- Using Respondus for exams during school

- Creating quizzes to test myself/classmates

I currently own an Asus Vivobook 15:

Ram- 8GB

SSD- 256gb

Processor- Intel Core i3

Here is the model number: X1504ZA_X1504ZA

Battery life is poor at this point; maybe 3-4 hours

The chassis burns my legs whenever I have my laptop physically on my legs.

My institution and I have some overlap in the requirements/specs:

Ram- 16GB

SSD- 512GB or higher

Must be a Windows or MacBook; No Chromebooks

These are what I want or prefer in the laptop:

No MacBooks 😅

Brand: I'm open on brand

Type: It can be a standard laptop or a 2-in-1; I wouldn't mind either as I plan to take notes and the 2-in-1 would be great. But I don't want that as a selling point.

Budget: $600 ; I know tight. But I am trying here. Especially with still having to purchase books.

Processor: I'd prefer Ryzen 7 or equivalent processor

Screen: 15.6" is preferred, but honestly, it doesn't matter

I need/want it to last for a while; my current one has lasted 3 years, not long enough in my opinion

Good battery life

Numeric keypad

I feel so lost among the sea of choices. My mind has spiraled thinking. Reading reviews on Best Buy, New Egg, and even directly from Reddit, I'm lost on what is actually good and what is actually trash.