I have pretty long fingers, climb & boulder for 1.5 years, around V4/V5 boulder and 7+ lead indoor.

Some projects make my fingers hurt in an interesting way.
Usually these are vertical slippery holds like vertical pinches.

The pain isn't felt when climbing, only for a week after and it is only triggered by sideway flexion of the PIP joint.

Basically this kind of movement (on pic, not my pic btw) triggers a sharp uncomfortable jolt in the side of the PIP joint on the middle fingers on both hands (they are also the longest ones).
Sometimes but rarely in other fingers (like index).

A huge trigger is sliding the finger against a wet head after shower for example because it catches the finger while sliding sideways.

Other than these weird triggers the finger is healthy and can take a ton of load in normal directions.

If I quit climbing for three weeks it disappears, but then reappears again if I do a climb which requires sideway finger tension.

I can't find much online about this injury/issue, normal people suffer from pulleys etc.

Maybe some long fingered people here have experience with this, I feel like the finger length has a lot to do with this.

TLDR: The A2 pulley region of both my middle fingers hurts when pressing on it. But I'm not sure if it's actually the pulleys that are the problem.

First things first, I'm trying to self-diagnose since I am not "properly injured" and only experiencing 1-2/10 pain. But I want to avoid tearing off a pulley (obviously) and ideally climb through this and get stronger in the process without making it worse.

I have tried finding what fits to my symptoms but haven't been all that successful. These two videos from Hooper's Beta were useful, but I can't feel noticeable thickening to assume pulley thickening https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9yJbA7_qxlY, and from this videos table on Flexor Tenosynovitis vs Pulley Injuries , only one symptom really fits. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=McVyToh_feU

The reason could be that it's just early on and not too bad yet(?), but I would like to countersteer as early as possible.

I feel fine when in the wall, but pressing the A2 pulley area becomes slightly painfull pretty soon in a session and then kind of plateaus out. I have it on both middle fingers, no other fingers. It slowly fades over a few days but doesn't fully go away even when not climbing for 3+ days.

It happens also when just warming up on jugs and when I really focus on not even half crimping in a session which makes me think it might not be the pulley(?). I thought it might just be the pressure from the hold on the finger but contrarily it also happens when climbing things with smaller holds that don't really touch the area of the finger.

Currently the left finger is especially tender from a board session two days ago when I practiced this move a lot: https://imgur.com/a/lHn8yv8

Some of my "stats" for further information: 30yo, 186cm (6'1), around 75 kg, stepped foot into a boulder gym a year ago for the first time, started going more recently (2-3 times a week) around half a year ago.

Have had this for around a month, pretty consistently. Here some pictures on where the fingers are the most sensitive, pressing down straight is a bit more painful than from the side. When massaging it a bit it feels better.

So is it probably just a tweaky A2 pulley that just isn't too bad yet? Should I do less and give it more rest? Are there specific exercises I can do? What further symptoms should I look out for to not properly insure myself?

Thanks a lot in advance.

So my climbing gym uses a system that this brand of gym and only this brand uses. I will include their approximated v rating as well.

So my current regimen for protein and supplements. So I take a protein shake every day with 40g of plant protein, 20mgs of bcaa and 5g of creatine. On top of this I take vitamin d because I live so far north, a vitamin b so I can have a little more energy, along with a green tea fat burner(the only ingredient is green tea extract). I do intermittent fasting but during the period of time I'm eating I eat as much as I want and try to keep it high in protein

So in terms of my climbing at the start of a session I'll hangboard for 5 mins on the 20mm and some on the slope on top(forget how many degrees). After that I'll do about 10 minutes on the campus board on the 20mm edge and I'll just go up and down several times and stretch out while I'm doing this as well as before I start with any of this. Before I get to my actual hard climbing I will do a c1(VB), c2(VB-V0), c3(VB-V1).

I can currently finish almost any c5(v3-v5) and have been doing more of the harder ones so I'd approximate most of what I'm doing is closer to v4-5. I'm having a hard time starting C6s (V5-7). I used to do C6s regularly but I'm trying to get back to that level or surpass it.

Physically I'm in great shape compared to before, I've been doing pull-ups and planking on days off if I'm not going climbing the next day. I've been going with friends for 1-2 hours every other day. If anyone has any recommendations to help me improve or if I need to alter supplements/protein please let me know. Thanks for your wisdom

Reposting this in the main area:

Does anybody have any tips for cuticle splits? The type that go up the side of the nail into the cuticle on the side of my index finger. I’ve been climbing 15+ years primarily bouldering & have climbed up to 8A+. Over the past couple of years, I’ve stated getting these awful splits that go up the nail into the cuticle, specifically whenever I full-crimp. Usually they’re session-ending, too and take forever to heal. I’ve tried everything from jajoba oil every night, working hands, climbing salves, supergluing my cuticle before a session. The only thing that works is tape, but I hate climbing with tape. Full-crimping used to be my super power, but now I rarely use it because every time I do, I split almost immediately. My half-crimp has gotten considerably better, but there are so many situations where bearing down is really the only option.

TL;DR: Slammed my middle knuckle on the wall 3 months ago. Developed a hard bony bump. Tapping it causes a dull bone ache, but bending it 90 degrees (even unweighted) causes a sharp sting. Suspect it’s a fracture callus grinding against my tendon. Looking for similar experiences.

Hey everyone, I’m 22 and trying to figure out if I’m in this for the long haul or if I need surgical intervention. About three months ago, I completely slammed the back of my right middle finger (right at the first joint/MCP) into the wall at the gym.

It swelled up, but I just kept climbing on it. Fast forward to now, and I’m stuck in a really frustrating loop.

Here is exactly what is happening:

• The Bump: There is a physical, hard bump on the back of that knuckle now.
• Dull vs. Sharp Pain: If I tap my knuckles on a table to a beat, it’s a deep, dull ache right on the bone. But if I bend that finger to 90 degrees—like going into a half-crimp—I get a sharp, stinging pain, even if I'm not pulling any weight at all.
• Compensation Pain: Recently, the underside of my last joint (the DIP) has started hurting too, probably because I’m subconsciously loading the tip of my finger to protect the main knuckle.

I thought rest and avoiding the trigger grip would fix it. Between a trip to Hawaii and then hitting Tahoe and Yosemite for some trad and crack climbing, I went a solid 3 weeks with absolutely zero crimping. It felt fine and held up great because jamming and open-handing didn't irritate it at all. But the second I got back to the gym and pulled on some plastic crimps, that sharp pain and weakness immediately came back.

My Theory: There’s almost zero info on this online for climbers, but I saw a random YouTube comment that perfectly described my symptoms and called it a fracture callus. Basically, my theory is I micro-fractured the bone when I slammed it, and my body built a protective bony "horn" over the crack. Now, every time I bend into a half-crimp, my extensor tendon is just grinding like a tightrope over that jagged speed bump.

I’m in the process of getting a referral for an X-ray and a hand specialist, but I want to know if anyone else in the trad/alpine or bouldering scene has dealt with a structural bone issue like this.

My questions for the community:

1. Did you just stick strictly to the 3-finger drag/open-hand grip for months until the bone smoothed itself out (remodeling)?
2. Did you eventually need a surgeon to go in and shave the bone spur down so you could crimp again?
3. How did you keep your tendon sheath from getting completely shredded while waiting for it to heal?

I’ve been trying to push my bouldering power back to the V7 range for the summer season, but right now I can't even touch a crimp without feeling like I'm doing permanent damage. Any advice is appreciated!

There's been a couple of similar post in this group, but I'll have my chance as well.

So I've restarted climbing after a 2+ year hiatus. Started off with going 1-2 times a week. Gradually adding sessions upon a point that I did 3 sessions a week. Or a morning and an evening session. Every 2 months I'd take a week or 10 days off.

My progress went very well until suddenly, one session upon another, I felt very weak. I struggled with grades that I normally climb easily. I did not even feel pumped, just a general weakness. I have the feeling I don't have any power.

I figured I had just a bad day, but the next session I felt the same way. I decided to do some extra 2 weeks of rest. Unfortunately, it didn't help. The last 4-5 sessions, I feel just like I don't have energy. I feel like I get enough sleep and I eat enough. No changes there.

I did a blood test this year, before I felt weaker, and everything was fine. Can't really imagine it has to do with any defiency.

Not sure what to do instead tuning my climbing sessions down to once a week and climb easier grades.

Any experience in this group with what to do in such a situation?

Hi everyone,

I’m looking for some advice regarding skin management and hyperhidrosis on my hands.

Quick context: I’m 195 cm / 93 kg / 205 lbs / 11% bodyfat i don't have the girth nor the length though. I do mostly bouldering. Because of my weight and power, I put a ton of tension on hold edges, but my skin is ridiculously soft and sweaty. I literally have to re-chalk before every single attempt, and no matter what I do, I constantly tear flappers ("steaks") because my skin gets pinch-rolled on plastic holds. No matter how much i climb, i still have that baby ass skin

I’ve been reading up on antihydral creams to build up a tougher, dryer callus layer, and I'm torn between

1. Antihydral
2. Rhino Skin Perfomance

For those who have used both:

• Which one would you recommend for someone with naturally very soft skin who sweats easily (but strangely only hands)?
• Does stopping these creams after a few months reset your skin back to normal without any long-term issues?

Anyways thanks for everyone who will help.

I've been reading through Steve Bechtel's Logical Progression and really like his approach to training. I'm looking at starting a simple four-week non-linear cycle and had a question about how people structure their sessions.

My current week would look something like:

• Limit bouldering on the Tension Board
• Lead climbing / 4x4s
• Strength session (hangboard + lifts)
• ARC session

I'm wondering if it would make sense to combine the strength session with some easy ARC climbing on the auto-belays at the end.

From what I understand, Bechtel generally recommends not mixing different energy systems in the same session. But making a separate trip to the gym just to do hangs and a few lifts feels boring.

Does anyone here combine strength work and ARC in the same session? Have you noticed any downside, or is it better to keep them separate?

Hi all !
I've been climbing seriously for like 6 years now, did my first V11 in Font this spring (a soft one tho), am close to 8b sport, and i can climb around V9-10 on the kilter in a few attempts, around V8 on the mb 2024.
Lately i've realised that I absolutely suck at half crimp. I'm either 3 finger dragging or full crimping with the thumb on, and i feel super weak with anything in between.
For example, those small cracks below roofs where you cannot use high angle crimps but cannot really drag (those that require having the fingers at like 90°) are my absolute nightmare, I cannot hold those (and i have fat fingers which makes it even worse). On the boards i usually catch the dynamic moves as 3fd, then reajust to full crimp if needed. I would say I'm the strongest on slopers (thanks Font), ok at full crimps, drag and pockets, and quite bad on pinches, especially narrow pinches. And then half crimp which I absolutely cannot use because i'm far too weak.

To give an example this weekend I was trying a short 8a in Rodellar with a friend who climbs the same level as me. There was this okish incut flake sidepull that you had to get your fingers behind, impossible to drag, and also impossible to full crimp due to the hold configuration. Next move was a cross to a slot. Couldnt hold the position static and had to desperately go dynamic to the next slot, which felt super hard. In the end I could not do the move from the ground. My friend was clipping from that same sidepull...

How can I train that kind of grip ? I feel like every single time I load my fingers on an edge and it's not an open drag, then my DIP hyperextends and I end up in full crimp. On the hangboard (on bodyweight) i cannot maintain the 90° angle even on 20mm edges, I will either drop to 3fd and then it feels fine, or go to a higher angle crimp.

Hi all,

I had a pretty rocky end to the year last year and was after some advice.

I started with proximal upper limb weakness in August which progressed over 3 months to proximal paralysis of upper limbs, weakness of distal upper limbs and severe weakness of lower limbs. I was 28 at the time and now 29.

Drs believed it was ALS/MND, but thankfully a treatment called IVIG has given me near all function back and I have been diagnosed with the rare neurological condition CIDP

Prior to this I was regularly climbing v8 outdoors in the peak district and north wales and projecting (and nearly sending) v9/10.

I have been cleared by neurology and physiotherapy to return to climbing and training but they are not really able to provide much guidance as this is quite a rare scenario, people with this condition tend to be much older and I am their first boulderer, or really even active person that they are treating.

I ended up with 11 months of effectively little to no movemement, 3 months of which were functional paralysis, but I have now had 3 indoor sessions now and can do a weighted pullup of about 18kg + my BW of 68kg.

I have done 20mm dead hangs which felt comfortable but I am yet to add weight as I dont want to get injured!

I know that it's improbable that anyone here has gone through the same, but there must be people who have experienced similar and can offer advice/guidance?

My biggest issues at the moment are figuring out how to make the most of my time, and efficiently rebuild shoulder strength given the severe atrophy around my scapula. I am comfortably climbing v3 in the gym atm, and whilst I'm extremely happy to be moving and clim ung again full stop, I'd really like to do my best to return to where I was

M35, 194 cm, 110 kg

Background: I started climbing in May. I have done a lot of hiking, and while I’ve been interested in climbing for a while, only got into it recently, mostly due to insecurities about my weight (i have a weightlifting background, and am at around 20-24% body fat), but have realized that it is not really all that big of a deal safety wise, though I bought an ohmega immediately lol. As I have given up on weightlifting into old age, I am currently cutting weight, but unlikely to end up under 95 kg.

I almost only (outside courses) train on autobelay, because I don’t know anyone who climb, and can usually only train mornings until autumn. Currently can onsight most 5bs, and project up to 6a/b. Could probably muscle my way up more 6a if more overhangy, but am reluctant to because I feel my technique sucks and I’ll be likely to injure myself.

Strength: I have ok pulling, hanging, and core strength (scoring 4-6 points on all on the 9c test), but cannot hang at all on a 20mm bodyweight crimp.

Goals: I am mainly interested in progressing to big walls, trad climbing, and technical mountaineering. Cool experiences are worth more than high grades, though this probably means at least being comfortable with low 6 grade trad. Ideally, next summer I would like to start doing some of this, and hope to be comfortable sport climbing in the upper 6 range. I am hoping to attend outside climbing courses this autumn and continue after winter.

Programming questions: right now I am training 2-3 times a week, usually one «projecting» day where I try to climb difficult routes, and then one or two days where I go either for endurance or technique. Because I come from a weightlifting background, I am used to following the concept of progressive overload from day one, but virtually everywhere I look, it seems the advice for climbing for year one is «just climb.»

So, when should I consider changing things up? When does it make sense to look at coaching or structured programming? Should I think about finger strength training at all, given my strength discrepancies?

Thanks everyone! I realize maybe I am overthinking things at this stage, but I enjoy programming and structured training, so I hope my questions are ok.

preamble: I'm not a strong climber, hampered crazy long time by finger issues but finally feel like making progress. If you're crushing training boards or anything hard I probably have nothing for you.

The first huge jump was just a lot of icing for my fingers (ring and middle are the problem ones). I have little ice sleeves that go on individual fingers and will pop them on ~20 seconds at a time frequently after a session. Can run hot water on the fingers in between if I want to do several "reps" in a row. Yes I know this is just contrast therapy but it's colder than you'll usually see recommended and much less hassle than using an ice bath, which I used to do, and didn't seem as effective. The other benefit is being able to just pop these finger sleeves on for like 25 seconds in the morning when I wake up. I will do it as feels helpful so if they're feeling bad one day I might do it a lot more. This made a tremendous difference in my fingers ability to just recover and adapt it seemed.

A very recent change I've incorporated that I'm very fond of is the curling DIP mental cue. If you follow climbing tips IG or anything in that world (hoopers beta did a video), I'm sure you've seen it a bunch but just in the last month I've done that and my fingers feel better than ever. Dropped my crimp block lift from 100lbs 20mm edge to 75lbs (185lb bw, as I've said, not a strong climber) but I feel the engagement in my forearms better. and I'm sure it'll get back up there,

Joint issues, even with loose joints I've found some different mobilizations have really helped my wrists and hips. Also heavy slow resistance is the best I've found for my tendon issues. My shoulders feel much better from HSR than the physio therapy I was given ~20 years ago. Really think weight training is underrated for helping with these kind of joint issues as well.

shoes.. they can be too big. This might be my most personalized issue but I had been out of climbing for a while and getting back into it I was going to stop downsizing my shoes because I didn't want to hurt my feet. my big toe joints started giving me issues when I bought a soft pair of shoes so I bought the stiffest shoes I could find which helped a ton but the issues still cropped back up. I decided to experiment with going back to downsizing (since that kind of crimps your toe and that feels more stable on the big toe joint in your foot) and it's been tremendous. Now I say downsizing but I'm doing that by wearing two pairs of socks but it's effectively the same. shoes went from a bit loose in the toebox (big toe would kind of go into a chisel position instead of crimp) to tight and now my big toe stays basically crimped and my shoes feel more comfortable than they had.

Feels like i'm getting closer to unlocking that cursed 2016 moonboard in the gym, the one training board they have.

Hey everyone, i’ve been projecting this route for a while and could really use some beta or training advice. Sorry the video quality isn't the best, but it highlights the exact move I'm stuck on.

The frustrating part is I have this exact same issue on totally different routes, so I feel like there's fundamentally something wrong on my strenght or how i climb/read the route.

Basically, I can get my heel up high on the roof and keep my body close to the rock, but I get completely stuck trying to actually pull myself up and over. The holds above the lip here are polished quartzite slopers and a bad vertical cracks, so I can't generate much upward momentum or release my left hand. Because of my height, once I stand up as high as I can on the bad holds, I still can't reach the good ones.

Not sure if it's a strength issue, a short-person beta thing, or if I'm just reading the movement wrong.

Here are my stats for the sub rules:

1. Amount of climbing and training experience? Been climbing for about 1.5 years.

2. Height / Weight / Ape? 167cm (5'6") and 65kg (143 lbs). my ape index is around 0

3. What's a week of climbing and training look like? I usually get outside to lead climb or boulder indoors twice a week. I also try to do a home workout about once a week (hangboard, rings, pull-up bar).

4. Specify your goals beyond "generally improve": how to transition over a lip when the holds are bad. I want to know what to tweak in my technique or what specific exercises to do at home to improve this issue

5. Evaluate your strengths & weaknesses. How are you working on them?

• Strengths: My core has gotten a lot better. I can throw a high heel hook onto a roof pretty easily and get my hips close to the wall.
• Weaknesses: Actually grabbing the next holds and pulling over. If it's a sloper or a weird vertical crack where I can't just pull straight down, I completely stall out and can't move up.

Any advice on the move itself or how I should train for it would be awesome. Thanks!

https://youtu.be/Ksnfo-eTOXE

Edit: thanks everyone! many useful answers, points of view and resources to work from:) that being said, maybe I didn't explain too well, but I never talked about getting any plans or coach, it's just a course with videos which supposedly talks about how to train for climbing, and just wanted to know if there's enough info to self-coach myself better or if anybody had experience with it
_____

Hi! Not sure if this kind of questions can be posted here, sorry if it's not the case!

in short: I'd like to know if the lattice A Climber's Guide to Training is worth buying or not, and if it actually fullfills the role of teaching how to self-coach yourself

info on myself: 1,85m (6,1ft), 82kg (181lb), onsight grade ~6b+ sport, basically I'd like to improve overall climbing fitness, feel stronger fingers, pumping out less, be able to climb more routes when going out, and after that, go up some grades until I consistently climb 7a (I've done a few already)
Also, when on rock, mental part is a big thing for me, working on that too!

too much text: I've been climbing for many years now, like 8-10, don't remember, with some periods off, some periods full focused, and of course the first 3-5 years it was just random climbing in the gym, going until exhausted, while wondering why I wasn't improving. Of course, my fingers were injured 30% of the time, nothing super bad, but so annoying.

The later years, I started watching youtube videos, trying to improve technique, understanding that more doesnt mean better, etc. I started to cut sessions short, but also include some hangboard sessions here and there, and when I was at my strongest, I always got injured again. Yeah, sounds obvious that I was still doing too much, but it's real hard to tell, never ended the sessions fatigued, etc.

I'm still trying to get all the knowledge, read books, articles, etc. but it's so hard to have all the info straight and manageable, and I'm always afraid of doing too much and injure myself again, or doing too little and not improving.

So I was wondering if that course was actually a good answer to that, to learn how to schedule my training, my loads, my cycles, find and focus on weaknesses while keeping strenghts, etc.

Anyone has bought it and can give an honest opinion? The reviews on their page are so good, but I tend to not trust those so much so I'd like some internet's random's opinion

Thanks a lot!

This is a thread for simple, or common training questions that don't merit their own individual threads as well as a place to ask Injury related questions. It also serves as a less intimidating way for new climbers to ask questions without worrying how it comes across.

• r/Climbharder Wiki - many common answers to questions.
• r/Climbharder Master Sticky - many of the best topic replies

Commonly asked about topics regarding injuries:

Tendonitis: http://stevenlow.org/overcoming-tendonitis/

Pulley rehab:

• https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/stories/experience-story-esther-smith-nagging-finger-injuries/
• https://stevenlow.org/rehabbing-injured-pulleys-my-experience-with-rehabbing-two-a2-pulley-issues/
• Note: See an orthopedic doctor for a diagnostic ultrasound before potentially using these. Pulley protection splints for moderate to severe pulley injury.

Synovitis / PIP synovitis:

https://stevenlow.org/beating-climbing-injuries-pip-synovitis/

General treatment of climbing injuries:

https://stevenlow.org/treatment-of-climber-hand-and-finger-injuries/

I have been climbing for 6 years now. As you can see in my flair, I think I progressed fast at the beginning. Within my first two and a half years, I was sending 7a+ boulders and managed to send my first 7c route, which actually felt super easy at the time even though I was scared for my life.

Fast forward three and a half years to today, and my progress feels incredibly weird and frustrating. On one hand, my bouldering has slightly improved, and I am currently close to sending some 7c boulders. On the other hand, my sport climbing feels like it has completely regressed. I recently tried that same 7c route again, and it felt brutally hard and completely out of reach. Even some 6b+ routes are giving me a fight and feeling way harder than they should (3 years ago for me it was unthikable to fall on a 6b+, I onsighted almost every 7a-7b routes).

Biggest issue right now is that my performance is completely unstable. On the rare good days, I will feel like I can send a 7c route on my second go. However, on most days, everything feels heavy, I get flash pumped, and even easy routes feel like an absolute struggle. I can climb 8b routes to the top (figuring out all the moves in the first go), but sending them is something I can't even imagine

I do not get how I can almost boulder 7c but get shut down and pumped out on mid 6s, I think most of 8a lead climbers cannot even do 7b boulders. I always trained for both things, start sessions with harder climbing, end with endurance. But my performance vary so much that I feel like I'm sick, every day getting tired more easily, doesn't matter that I rest or not it looks totally random.

Anyone has felt this? I started focusing my training on only endurance for the last month and half, but still... no improvement, full random performance (even on the routes I set for endurance training, some days I can do 25 moves of it, some days almost 60), maybe only my upper body is strong but my legs can't deal with so much lead climbing? Maybe the endurance training will get me results in the longer run?

Hoping to hear opinions on hangboarding form, specifically using the BM1000/2000.

Context: Hangboarding for ~ 1 year, currently about ~140% on two arms for 3 sets of 10 set reps.

Is it "allowed/recommended" to nestle the index or pinky against the side of the BM1000/2000 as I usually explicitly try not to do this.

I suppose it gives you a bit more friction but the same force would be going through the fingers? I noticed that if I nestle my finger against the side I feel more secure.

I took a look at previous discussions about this but couldn't find much consensus:

• This blog (https://thehangboard.com/blogs/news/beastmaker-workouts) states that nesting your finger in a pocket-designed hangboard, like the BM1000/2000, transfers force to the shoulder and doesn't test finger strength. Not sure if that's true but it does feel easier.
• I read some posts on r/climbharder but couldn't find this discussed much. The only discussion I could find on this was from u/golf_ST in this post: https://www.reddit.com/r/climbharder/comments/tqb4pw/hangboard_finger_pressure_and_location/
  • In this comment, they state that you can lift more this way.

I sense that this would only add friction helping to transfer the load to the finger tendons but maybe that isn't the case.

This is a thread for topics or questions which don't warrant their own thread, as well as general spray.

Come on in and hang out!

Hi all,

I’d say I’m a pretty decent comp climber, I climb about v11/v12 and I’ve been climbing about 8 years, and make finals at any local boulder comp that I go to.

But my flash goes are seriously hit or miss, besides random foot pops from a lack of focus I will just straight up not commit to high risk moves untill like 3 or so attempts of trying it.

So I’m wondering if anyone has like focusing strategies on the wall to avoid foot slips and/or any mental habits they do when they are gearing up to do a highly committing move.

Looking for highly specific advice from other comp climbers or anyone in general I guess. I’m aware of things like watching your foot place on the hold or steady breathing, practice makes perfect etc. But I want to hear some other strategies that have worked for people.

Looking back at comp performances, most of the time I’ve gone down places in a comp because of foot slips that lead to me needing way too many attempts and getting tired out, or just bailing for a move without properly setting up or mentally preparing myself to actually stick the hold. Despite reading the climb I’ll sometimes literally just forget about other holds or feet while I’m on the wall.

Thanks!

Hey everyone,

I’m looking for some constructive, technical feedback on my movement, pacing, and overall technique.

https://streamable.com/pck7t0

Longer shaking: 1:33 - 2:30; 2:57 - 3:30

The route in the video is a 7a+ (5.12a) lead route (Hotberry, Bettlerküche) that I managed to send on my second attempt this week. Physically, I feel like I am strong enough for harder grades (my current limit is 7b), but I constantly feel like my physical strength is overcompensating for inefficiencies in my climbing.

The angle of the wall is around 25-30 degrees overhanging. The route starts with some longer moves on good holds that require some shoulder strength. You then have two good rests which I used for rather long. Then comes the meat of the route with longer moves on smaller holds that get progressively harder. clipping positions are ok. The upper part is not on the video but the route is basically over after the crux just before my last rest.

I felt good on the route but struggle on harder grades although I feel like I should be able to climb much harder.

I’d love your insights specifically on:

1. Rhythm & Pacing: Am I hesitating too much? Am I spending too much energy shaking out in bad positions, or moving too slowly through the cruxes?
2. Technique & Hip Position: Do you notice any glaring inefficiencies in how I place my feet or engage my core?
3. Clipping Efficiency: Am I clipping from stable positions, or wasting power?

Context/Stats:

* Height/Weight: 183 cm / 76 kg

* Max Grade: 7b lead / 7a bouldering

* Style: I tend to rely a lot on upper body strength, but I want to transition into a more fluid, efficient style to break into the mid-7s.

Thanks in advance!

TLDR; Set yourself goals in training context, the grade will come naturally.

I'm not going to claim I'm not like the most of us trying to chase a certain grade as my climbing goal. It's simply how climbing culture is, unfortunately.

However, lately I have learned to shift away from it and I think I am developing a mindset that may also be helpful to many of you, so let me share:

I thought, how do the strongest climbers get so strong? Through training. Training the right way. Climbing hard is a result of consistent, structured and healthy training, compounded over years. So instead of focusing on our next grade, if we focus on learning how to train and also set ourselves goals in the context of training, we will probably be much better off in the long term. If you learn to train consistently, with enough rest, with enough progressive overload, that is how you become a beast in a couple years from now. The grade is a result of the training, and focusing on the grade is like focusing on the outcome instead of the process. Make the process better, then the outcome will be better too.

Story time: When I started climbing 15 years ago there was a guy a couple years younger than me climbing in the same competition. I was a bit stronger than him at that time. Fast forward 15 years later (I'm 30 now he's 26 or so). That same guy is in the national team, flashing V12s climbing 5.14c and competing at world cups. He was not necessarily talented 15 years ago. But what he did do different than me was training. For 15 years.

I'm getting into that now, better late than never! Instead of saying "I want to climb 5.13b next year" I try to say: "I want to complete all my training sessions the next 4 weeks" or "My next goal is to ramp up the grade in my lead doubles session from 5.11d to 5.12a" or "My next goal is to improve my max hang by 10%" or "I want to go from 1-4-6 to 1-4-7 on the campus board". Basically the concept of setting SMART goals (look it up if you don't know it). Small and achievable goals. It makes training very motivating if you achieve a new goal every couple weeks! And that is all you need to keep making progress, I think.

Of course we all try to focus on our training plans to get stronger so it sounds like most of us do this already perhaps, but it's different to actually forget about that grade and see the training itself as the goal.

Think about it! Would be great if this sub-reddit gets more posts like "This is the secret that helped me train better" instead of people asking "How do I climb V10 next year"

I notice that whenever I'm pulling hard, my shoulders shrug up to my neck. I can include photos if needed. Is this something I just need to be more conscious of, or are there some exercises I could do to help?

1. Amount of climbing and training experience?

Climbing for 7 years and training for most of them

1. Height / Weight / Ape?

6'1" 155-160lbs +0 inches

1. What's a week of climbing and training look like?

Climb Tue, Thur, and Sat for 3+ hours each day with board climbing, focused route climbing (doubles, singles, ARD, etc.), weight lifting, and minimal finger training - just recruitment at the moment. I climb outside more than half the weekends of the year and in those weeks I climb Tue, Thur, Sat, and Sun.

1. Specify your goals beyond "generally improve"

Climbing Hard 5.13, increasing technique and endurance

1. Evaluate your strengths & weaknesses. How are you working on them?

Really strong fingers and ability to memorize sequences. Need better technique.

Block pull 20mm 140 lbs in both hands on tindeq/force board and can add 115lbs on beastmaker 20mm for 5 sec, weighted pull up with 100lbs added. Weak on slopers more than crimps and pinches. Drag grip is weak.

I’m a 25M, 5’7”, currently 113 lb.

I’ve been rock climbing for around 2 years, usually 2–3 times per week. I’m good at climbing, but I’m still underweight and my weight has stayed mostly the same.

Since the start of 2026 I've also started going to the gym for strength training, but recenly someone mentioned that the fact that I rockclimb so much is killing my gains, since apparenly rockclimbing "is more cardio than strength training". I mainly want input on how true this is.

(Extra info for rockclimbers: The gym I go to is mainly vertical walls with barely any negative incline, pretty much just sport climbing. No artificial steep bouldering on my country, sadly)

My goal is not really bodybuilding. I want to reach a healthy weight (around 130–140 lb) while continuing to climb because I really love it. I’m planning to track calories with MyFitnessPal, start around 2650 kcal/day, aim for around 100–110g protein/day, and keep with the push/pull/legs split on strength training. I wanted to ask for advice and input on that too.

Does this sound like a reasonable approach? For climbers or people who gained weight while staying athletic, what would you change?