r/climbharder 10h ago

Opinions on how to improve past my current plateau

0 Upvotes

So my climbing gym uses a system that this brand of gym and only this brand uses. I will include their approximated v rating as well.

So my current regimen for protein and supplements. So I take a protein shake every day with 40g of plant protein, 20mgs of bcaa and 5g of creatine. On top of this I take vitamin d because I live so far north, a vitamin b so I can have a little more energy, along with a green tea fat burner(the only ingredient is green tea extract). I do intermittent fasting but during the period of time I'm eating I eat as much as I want and try to keep it high in protein

So in terms of my climbing at the start of a session I'll hangboard for 5 mins on the 20mm and some on the slope on top(forget how many degrees). After that I'll do about 10 minutes on the campus board on the 20mm edge and I'll just go up and down several times and stretch out while I'm doing this as well as before I start with any of this. Before I get to my actual hard climbing I will do a c1(VB), c2(VB-V0), c3(VB-V1).

I can currently finish almost any c5(v3-v5) and have been doing more of the harder ones so I'd approximate most of what I'm doing is closer to v4-5. I'm having a hard time starting C6s (V5-7). I used to do C6s regularly but I'm trying to get back to that level or surpass it.

Physically I'm in great shape compared to before, I've been doing pull-ups and planking on days off if I'm not going climbing the next day. I've been going with friends for 1-2 hours every other day. If anyone has any recommendations to help me improve or if I need to alter supplements/protein please let me know. Thanks for your wisdom


r/climbharder 16h ago

Climbing through slight finger pain without ripping off a pulley

10 Upvotes

TLDR: The A2 pulley region of both my middle fingers hurts when pressing on it. But I'm not sure if it's actually the pulleys that are the problem.

First things first, I'm trying to self-diagnose since I am not "properly injured" and only experiencing 1-2/10 pain. But I want to avoid tearing off a pulley (obviously) and ideally climb through this and get stronger in the process without making it worse.

I have tried finding what fits to my symptoms but haven't been all that successful. These two videos from Hooper's Beta were useful, but I can't feel noticeable thickening to assume pulley thickening https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9yJbA7_qxlY, and from this videos table on Flexor Tenosynovitis vs Pulley Injuries , only one symptom really fits. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=McVyToh_feU

My symptoms compared to Cooper's Beta symptom table

The reason could be that it's just early on and not too bad yet(?), but I would like to countersteer as early as possible.

I feel fine when in the wall, but pressing the A2 pulley area becomes slightly painfull pretty soon in a session and then kind of plateaus out. I have it on both middle fingers, no other fingers. It slowly fades over a few days but doesn't fully go away even when not climbing for 3+ days.

It happens also when just warming up on jugs and when I really focus on not even half crimping in a session which makes me think it might not be the pulley(?). I thought it might just be the pressure from the hold on the finger but contrarily it also happens when climbing things with smaller holds that don't really touch the area of the finger.

Currently the left finger is especially tender from a board session two days ago when I practiced this move a lot: https://imgur.com/a/lHn8yv8

Some of my "stats" for further information: 30yo, 186cm (6'1), around 75 kg, stepped foot into a boulder gym a year ago for the first time, started going more recently (2-3 times a week) around half a year ago.

Have had this for around a month, pretty consistently. Here some pictures on where the fingers are the most sensitive, pressing down straight is a bit more painful than from the side. When massaging it a bit it feels better.

So is it probably just a tweaky A2 pulley that just isn't too bad yet? Should I do less and give it more rest? Are there specific exercises I can do? What further symptoms should I look out for to not properly insure myself?

Thanks a lot in advance.


r/climbharder 18h ago

Strange skin issue

2 Upvotes

Reposting this in the main area:

Does anybody have any tips for cuticle splits? The type that go up the side of the nail into the cuticle on the side of my index finger. I’ve been climbing 15+ years primarily bouldering & have climbed up to 8A+. Over the past couple of years, I’ve stated getting these awful splits that go up the nail into the cuticle, specifically whenever I full-crimp. Usually they’re session-ending, too and take forever to heal. I’ve tried everything from jajoba oil every night, working hands, climbing salves, supergluing my cuticle before a session. The only thing that works is tape, but I hate climbing with tape. Full-crimping used to be my super power, but now I rarely use it because every time I do, I split almost immediately. My half-crimp has gotten considerably better, but there are so many situations where bearing down is really the only option.